drive shaft

[ROZER]

since i did my poly wishbone i think some how i have damaged the drive shaft theres grease all under the car from it but i cant find why. boot seems ok but i have a strange clunk when pulling off as if its snatching its a s60 t5 auto and am looking at getting one from ebay theres a brand new on there for 65 quid that says its for a 850,c70,s70,v70 but no s60 i thought the v70 and s60 where the same not sure what to do cash is tight at the mo .

[JamesT5]

since i did my poly wishbone i think some how i have damaged the drive shaft theres grease all under the car from it but i cant find why. boot seems ok but i have a strange clunk when pulling off as if its snatching its a s60 t5 auto and am looking at getting one from ebay theres a brand new on there for 65 quid that says its for a 850,c70,s70,v70 but no s60 i thought the v70 and s60 where the same not sure what to do cash is tight at the mo .

Oh no not another one. You know, I broke my driveshaft trying to get my wishbone off and someone else only posted earlier that they also managed to break their driveshaft taking it off their car. I think Volvos are prone to having their driveshafts broken by accidents caused my changing parts. How many posts have I seen where this has happened..........

Anyway, my advice is don't drive it with a knackered driveshaft, you could in theory damage some other parts of the car including your gearbox. I'm sorry to tell you that my driveshaft cost about £170 plus labour, an expensive mistake on my part! They aren't cheap mate, and if I were you I'd get it done by a garage just to avoid anymore hassle.

I think Volvo design their cars this way so we end up taking it in to have work done.

Regards

James

[ROZER]

thanks james its just my luck more money down the drain.

[JamesT5]

I forgot to say, I managed to break mine by pulling it out too far when I ended up forcing the hub assembly out to get the wishbone off. Like you, I heard a big clunk and then when the wheel was reattached, I turned it around and heard a load of loose parts banging together. Once it's broke, it's broke! :(

[JamesT5]

thanks james its just my luck more money down the drain.

Yes, it was the same with me. I tried to save money by doing the job myself but ended up spending more anyway because I broke a perfectly good driveshaft. I would have saved money by taking it to a garage in the first place which I had to anyway in the end to have the work done I was trying to do plus the extra cost of replacing the driveshaft.

This is now the reason why I'm dubious of doing any more work on the suspension or related components, just in case I break something again!

[graemewelch]

Contact drivelink. Good quality and good prices

[silverhorse]

I forgot to say, I managed to break mine by pulling it out too far when I ended up forcing the hub assembly out to get the wishbone off. Like you, I heard a big clunk and then when the wheel was reattached, I turned it around and heard a load of loose parts banging together. Once it's broke, it's broke! :(

Being new to Volvos, I am surprised to be reading this thread. For a heavy car with lots of power and torque, you would think that they would be over engineered lumps of pig iron! Also, does not go with the 'bombproof' image of Volvos. You would expect this sort of thing from the Italians or French cars........

[JamesT5]

Being new to Volvos, I am surprised to be reading this thread. For a heavy car with lots of power and torque, you would think that they would be over engineered lumps of pig iron! Also, does not go with the 'bombproof' image of Volvos. You would expect this sort of thing from the Italians or French cars........

Yes, I agree and to be honest I think they design the car in such a way so that they can milk as much money out of you in over priced parts and labour as they can once you've spend £30,000 buying the car. They know that the job will be a right pain in the derriere to do on your own, so you'll pay their technicians silly money to do the job. Anyway, I'm full if conspiracy theories.

Regards

James

[M-R-P]

Rozer, the driveshaft you looked at is for P1 V70 and won't fit mate.

For anybody scared of doing wishbone bushes by the driveshaft problem, just keep pushing the shaft back into the gearbox every time you move something and you'll be fine :)

The inner CV rarely fails - they are pretty much bomb proof when they are doing their job. What is causing the problem here is when the driveshaft is pulled from the CV, it no longer holds the CV together and bits move. When the drive shaft goes back in, the bits that have moved then get forced into places they shouldn't go and then CRUNCH!

Removing the hub to driveshaft bolt before starting the job, pushing the shaft into the gearbox (gently), then propping the hub on something will help.

[ROZER]

cheers mate for the advice but its going in for recon shaft 170 quid its done i think the damage is already done grease is all but gone and maybe some steel .

[M-R-P]

The driveshaft thing is something I've always regretted not putting in my how-to thread for polybushing wishbones.
I can only apologise to those I've mislead.

[ROZER]

The driveshaft thing is something I've always regretted not putting in my how-to thread for polybushing wishbones.
I can only apologise to those I've mislead.

its not your fault dude §§§§ happens such as life .

[ShadeTek]

This happened to me recently but I eventually managed to rebuild the CV joint. I have now had both prop/halfshafts out of this car to replace the two inner CV gators the the main stealer garage holed when they replaced the clutch. They also left clips off(found lying loose in the engine bay), wires unclipped and dangling and the connector for the 02 sensor which should be attached to the subrame, hanging down. Not overly impressed with them. However, I now have navigated previously unchartered waters with repairing their work. It's MOT time this weekend and I have taken tomorrow off work as I also have a brake problem. I am getting wobbbly braking at higher speed and initially you would think that was a warped disc (due to overheating from a stuck caliper), but seemingly it is rarely a warped disc. It is a bit of an urban myth according to severeal websites. What happens is the disc gets contaminated and can sometimes be fixed with a skim. So what I am planning is to take the disc off and with my angle grinder, calm down, using sanding flaps with 120 grit, buff it down to remove the odd score marks that are on it. I've also got seepage from the oil filter which I will replace with new seal.

[graemewelch]

170 sound alot to me. I was qupted 1/3 of that price for a recon