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View Full Version : Urgent help needed....ive blown off the caps on my vacuum tree..... NO BOOST



Rudeyboy18
Sunday 7th October 2012, 13:22
Ive replaced a degraded vac pipe that went into inlet manifold as it had just cracked and was loosing boost . Since replacing i literally couldnt believe the power difference. Ive never felt the car respond so well. But after about 30mins of hard driving , relearning the car ... i suddenly lost boost and the Engine Electronic system light came on. I then opened bonnet , had a loot at any leaks and noticed ive blown off some of the caps off the vacumm tree. I know i had as i remember seeing more caps on there about 30mins before. Only thing now is...... do i block all of them off?? or not???? Please help if you can. This is a 1998 V70 R..... oh since this happend the car has literally drank fule!!! normally have 29-31mpg.... now its 18-22mpg since the problem

Thanks in advance


http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii633/rudeyboy18/Wiltshire-20121007-00257_zps36e457b9.jpg

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 13:30
Could you or a previous owner have adjusted the wastegate actuator to compensate for the lack of boost caused by the knackered pipe you replaced?
I think you may have had a bit of overboost as it takes a fair bit of pressure to blow those caps off.
Which pipe did you change?

Rudeyboy18
Sunday 7th October 2012, 13:36
I had a Remapp done at HML..... He put a hml304 ecu in and did a dyno run and he was dissapointed with the result. So he edited the ecu to put just over 1bar of boost.......... Then it worked better etc. I literally changed only the Vacuum pipe theat comes off of the inlet manifiold to the recirculating valve. Ive not touched the wastgate/acuator as i have no knowledge of them and dont want to break something. I did try and block all those nipples just a min ago , but that made it worse and i could smell fuel really badly!!

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 13:52
The boost map was probably adjusted to compensate, you'd have been blowing the recirc open on boost if the pipe you changed was leaking, which would have accounted for the dissappointing dyno result. now the recirc is holding, you could be making massive amounts of boost Now would be te time to get a gauge.
I'd go back and get the map adjusted again before you bend a rod or something :(

Rudeyboy18
Sunday 7th October 2012, 13:58
Whats about as tempory fix some my car actually holds boost and doesnt drink fuel like a 5lt V8. I will drive conservativley untill i get it sorted. Just cant drive the way it is!!! Do i block the holes?? Also i have a blannking plate ready to go on.... will that help?? I am running Recirc and BOV in tandam at moment!!! Have been for about 3months.

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 14:07
Firstly, a bov won't work properly without a blanking plate.
To close the holes in the tree, I'd cable tie 3" of fuel hose or similar to the ports and bend it double and cable tie the end.

Rudeyboy18
Sunday 7th October 2012, 14:15
Shall i take out the BOV/siclone DV spout pipe out as well and just have the old top intercooler pipe with only recirc Valve?? I have made some temp caps. Im just wondering if the vac pipe has blown off of the recirc valve down bhind the engine

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 14:22
Worth a go. Ditch the bov for now, cap the ports and deffo check the recirc hose. You really don't wanna kill your engine mate.

T5frankie
Sunday 7th October 2012, 15:12
get a boost gauge attached to a long pipe to the vac tree and put it througn the window and see what its boosting at with the holes blocked, ive put small bits off tubing on the vac tree branches with a screw in the end to block off, you may just need to slacken off the wastegate rod. put the blanking plate on and take the re-circ out first of all

Rudeyboy18
Sunday 7th October 2012, 17:06
So would the car go into limp mode if it realises its got to much boost going through etc??? Or would the lack of power etc just be due to leak in the tree or recirc valve?? Im going to Try attempt to fit the blanking plate today/tomorrow. But from what ive read its a right pain in the ass. I dont have a ramp..... but Can i do it from engine bay only or should i get the front end up on axle stands so can get underneath too?? Also graemwelch said you'd be the guy to ask about fitting the blanking plate.... i asked if i needed some kind of seal under the plate or is there something under my current recirc valve that i can keep under the plate. Thanks guys for your advice..... ive just ordered a boost gauge (autogauge) so hopefully i can give you more info. Do you guys think hamish will swapp my hml304 for another pre programmed hml304 minus the extra boost.....??? As that seems to be the problem of overboost by the looks of it.

T5frankie
Sunday 7th October 2012, 17:20
as for the blanking plate one of my cars has one and it seems fine, just take the maf tube off from the box to the turbo, 3x10mm bolts in a triangular shape they can be a bit of a pain depends on how stiff they are, if you have ratchet spanners it will be off in no time, you cant get a socket on the bottom one, make sure you dont drop them, take the recirc out and put plate on, you will find you have more room to refit as it doesn't bulge out like the recirc so refitting is much easier, you do it from the top standing over the n/s wing, i cant see the ecu having more boost, probably just tightened the actuator

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 18:48
If you're worried about sealing the plate, I have a Gasket or two somewhere, pre cut to size.

Rudeyboy18
Sunday 7th October 2012, 19:09
Right...... Ive got the recirc valve off just before it got dark. ..... What a pain in the butt!! Thanks Frankie for your instructions, i only had a normal 10mm spanner though so was a little tricky. The pipe on the recirc valve snapped off when i pulled at it, so that could have been a prob too. Ive wiped clean all the area etc. Ive now also Replaced the pipe work going from wastgate thing above the turbo. At the other end of that i found a solinoid thingy ( seen people on this forum talking about rplacing them) So i replaced the other 2lines running from it too. I did a checky swap on the tired grey'ish looking horns to smaller, jet black horns from my Saab 9-5 too.... The were direct fit. Alot Smaller in size and much newer looking.

Tomorrow i will Fit my other samco hoses 2 coolant ones and the lower intercooler pipe. I will wait for a gasket from you M-R-P before fitting the plate or maybe even make one my self. Would i just get some rubber sheet and cut it to the same size/shape as the plate??

Frankie , you mentioned about the Wastegate rod needs loosening....... Is that something i can do while i have access to it all. I can see the rod going into what looks like a heat shield. Would i remove that and get some WD40 on the ends etc??

Thank you so much for your tips/advice guys. I have boost gauge on its way now too.

T5frankie
Sunday 7th October 2012, 19:15
Right...... Ive got the recirc valve off just before it got dark. ..... What a pain in the butt!! Thanks Frankie for your instructions, i only had a normal 10mm spanner though so was a little tricky. The pipe on the recirc valve snapped off when i pulled at it, so that could have been a prob too. Ive wiped clean all the area etc. Ive now also Replaced the pipe work going from wastgate thing above the turbo. At the other end of that i found a solinoid thingy ( seen people on this forum talking about rplacing them) So i replaced the other 2lines running from it too. I did a checky swap on the tired grey'ish looking horns to smaller, jet black horns from my Saab 9-5 too.... The were direct fit. Alot Smaller in size and much newer looking.

Tomorrow i will Fit my other samco hoses 2 coolant ones and the lower intercooler pipe. I will wait for a gasket from you M-R-P before fitting the plate or maybe even make one my self. Would i just get some rubber sheet and cut it to the same size/shape as the plate??

Frankie , you mentioned about the Wastegate rod needs loosening....... Is that something i can do while i have access to it all. I can see the rod going into what looks like a heat shield. Would i remove that and get some WD40 on the ends etc??

Thank you so much for your tips/advice guys. I have boost gauge on its way now too.

yeah mate, take the heat shield off and throw it away, for future ease of adjustment, only loosening it if its boosting way above what it should be, which is around 15-16psi

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 20:26
If you make your own gasket use proper gasket material and draw round the recirc and bolt holes, then cut it out. Don't use rubber - it'll melt.

Rudeyboy18
Sunday 7th October 2012, 20:28
Ah, when i fit blanking plate..... the pipe that went from recirc valve to inlet manifold now doesnt go anywhere??? What goes in the inlet manifold now?? Bov straight to inlet??

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 20:31
Yep, recirc pipe straight on the bov mate :D

oblark
Sunday 7th October 2012, 20:33
If you make your own gasket use proper gasket material and draw round the recirc and bolt holes, then cut it out. Don't use rubber - it'll melt.

I`ve got a home made rubber gasket on my blanking plate and it hasn`t melted yet.

M-R-P
Sunday 7th October 2012, 20:54
I`ve got a home made rubber gasket on my blanking plate and it hasn`t melted yet.

Just normal rubber?

cookie
Monday 8th October 2012, 12:59
So would the car go into limp mode if it realises its got to much boost going through etc???

Pre ME7 not a lot of electronic protection (only legal protection, if you bend a rod, and can prove professional negligence)

get the map sorted ASAP, was nothing said at time of remapping about mechanical problems being cause of poor results on dyno? what was put on receipt/invoice?


edit

Just wondering how many people have read this thread, and thought of the saying 'a leopard never changes its spots!'

cookie
Monday 8th October 2012, 13:18
The Heat shield is there for a purpose, it shields the components above (such as brake cylinder etc) from excess heat.

claymore
Monday 8th October 2012, 13:40
The Heat shield is there for a purpose, it shields the components above (such as brake cylinder etc) from excess heat.
can't say I've had any issues with heat in the three years since i removed my heat shield

Rudeyboy18
Monday 8th October 2012, 14:04
He just baffled by the lack of increase in torque and power that was produced after fitting the pre programmed HML304 ecu. So he changed MAF and no change, so he took ecu out and turned up the boost on there.

How would you know if you were to bend a rod etc ??

M-R-P
Monday 8th October 2012, 14:06
He just baffled by the lack of increase in torque and power that was produced after fitting the pre programmed HML304 ecu. So he changed MAF and no change, so he took ecu out and turned up the boost on there.

How would you know if you were to bend a rod etc ??

Loud knock knock knock knock from the lower part of the engine.

Rudeyboy18
Monday 8th October 2012, 14:10
PHEEWWW!!! I havent got that .... thankfully. I managed to Bend Conrod on my Saab 9-5 ..... they are forged engines too...... Bit to much torque in that thing. 572nm...... BEAST

Rudeyboy18
Monday 8th October 2012, 14:13
All that torque used to come in just over 2000 rpm too.

M-R-P
Monday 8th October 2012, 14:14
In a fwd? tyre muncher then ;)

Rudeyboy18
Monday 8th October 2012, 14:33
Yes it was. Also as it was only born as the LPT se ..... it didnt come with traction control as standard. If i was ever at lights racing i would have to start in 2nd gear. First was a pointless gear in any weather

T5frankie
Monday 8th October 2012, 16:51
Loud knock knock knock knock from the lower part of the engine.

doesnt have to be loud, could be just a slight tick to a full on knock depending on how bent it is

Rudeyboy18
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 14:58
Right............. I have now installed blanking plate, replaced all vacuum lines and have DIY'd the Vacuum tree closed. Ive not put everything back together and Started her up...... wouldnt start at first , then i realised i knocked out one of the ingnition leads. So back out with air box to find the lead underneath! It sounded not to great at first, think as it was cold , damp and be left for a few days after not running right. I let it warm up and then it sounded like it was idleing nicely, smooth , no juders etc. I then slotted in the boost gauge that came as i was doing this (perfect timing) and Took her out for a drive. This is the video i took of the gauge while driving. Its at a funny angle so the peak looks like 12psi , but face on its 14 or so. But its peak in first was only 7psi.... i think it might be due to traction control stopping the wheels spinning in the wet maybe?? Vacuum at idle was 25 constant. When driving it would go to 30 then go back to 25.... is this normal??? Ive never had boost gauge, not familiar with volvo psi rates etc. Does this look normal???


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvyKI5KtJ2s&feature=share&list=ULDvyKI5KtJ2s

M-R-P
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 15:55
Looks ok, maybe a little low on boost?
Here's mine - 16t 16psi peak

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9HyhxNz4_I

T5frankie
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 18:30
between 14-16psi is normal, some cars have less, boost is limited in first gear

Rudeyboy18
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 18:42
Looks ok, maybe a little low on boost?
Here's mine - 16t 16psi peak

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9HyhxNz4_I

Am i right in thinking .... smaller turbo higher boost??? Mines an 18t. My friend back in 2001 had a N-reg 1.4 Punto GT arbarth...... It was running 30psi!! I guess MBC and Tweak of the acuator will give a little more. But i will leave that until ive spoken to you all on the meet on sunday!

Rudeyboy18
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 18:43
between 14-16psi is normal, some cars have less, boost is limited in first gear

Thanks Frankie, You're knowledge / advice has Helped massively.

M-R-P
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 18:44
mine should run 10 - 11 psi but I have an MBC.

Is boost limited in 1st or is it that 1st is over so quickly, it doesn't have time to make max boost?
that's what mine is like :D

T5frankie
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 18:49
mine should run 10 - 11 psi but I have an MBC.

Is boost limited in 1st or is it that 1st is over so quickly, it doesn't have time to make max boost?
that's what mine is like :D

yeah its limited mate

M-R-P
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 18:51
Only my missus boots 1st... silly cow pmsl

M-R-P
Tuesday 9th October 2012, 18:55
Am i right in thinking .... smaller turbo higher boost??? Mines an 18t. My friend back in 2001 had a N-reg 1.4 Punto GT arbarth...... It was running 30psi!! I guess MBC and Tweak of the acuator will give a little more. But i will leave that until ive spoken to you all on the meet on sunday!

Smaller engine -higher boost more like.

Rudeyboy18
Wednesday 10th October 2012, 09:45
Umm, since ive put my car together .... it runs nicely etc. But since removing the heat shield i have the smoke/vapour rising from behind the engine.... Its from where the turbo is/downpipe...... I did spray the actuator arm etc with wd40 so im thinking...... is that whats just burning off the turbo housing or is it more serious???? As i said, its running fine, boosting fine etc. Just vapour/poss smoke coming from that area and possibly a hiss, but i might be more apparent due to no heat shield and im more paranoid.... Ive only taken it out the once to test boost gauge. Any thoughts??

M-R-P
Wednesday 10th October 2012, 10:45
WD burning off mate. ;)

Rudeyboy18
Wednesday 10th October 2012, 15:19
WD burning off mate. ;)

You were right. Ive jsut taken it out again and no vapour or smoke!!!!! BUT .................... now power is reduced, or shall i say boost!!! 4-6psi peak. Vacuum is all normal on gauge. But one thing i did notice is when on boost it holds a constant 4-6psi but there is a very noticable hiss coming from the turbo area. Quite noticable from in the car with windows shut. I have gone back to standard air box recently so there is minimal induction noise now.

I will confess though..... the blanking plate only has 2 screws holding it in and NO gasket.................... You lot are thinking "YOU LAZT §§§§" But i got frustrated dropping the bolts and the 3rd bolt furthist away was a §§§§§§ to get on as my hands are to big. So i tried to cut corners. Do you think the lack of boost now it due to the blanking plate?? Instinct would tell me yes

M-R-P
Wednesday 10th October 2012, 15:44
Do you really need an answer to that question? Hiss coming from the turbo area, no boost...

C'mon dude, treat her right ;)

Rudeyboy18
Wednesday 10th October 2012, 15:47
Consider myself a DOUCHE!!!! Will get on the case later. Means i have to bloody take everything out again lol. Serves me right eh! Fingers crossed all willbe ok after. What if its running fine but the engine electronic light is still on?? Can i plug it in a wipe it??

M-R-P
Wednesday 10th October 2012, 17:21
Consider myself a DOUCHE!!!! Will get on the case later. Means i have to bloody take everything out again lol. Serves me right eh! Fingers crossed all willbe ok after. What if its running fine but the engine electronic light is still on?? Can i plug it in a wipe it??
Depends on the fault but there will be code readers to hand at the meet on Sunday.

Rudeyboy18
Friday 12th October 2012, 16:07
Right, 3rd bolt of blanking plate put in, nice and tight. Took for a test drive..... to startr with the car was doing the same..... 6psi for the 5 times i booted it. Then was so §§§§ed off i was just on way back home and just before my road i floored it again expecting 6psi again.... but no!!! 14PSI Kicks straight in and held like a muther fugger!! So took her out for 30 mins and she hit 14psi without fail everytime. Very happy now. The engine electric system light is still on but hopeing that ive rectified the faults and it can be wiped on sunday!! Looking forward to the meet now my car is running again. Thanks all for your input. MASSIVE help!!!

M-R-P
Friday 12th October 2012, 17:23
Happy days. :beer: