forged rods?

[Richy200]

Hello,

Seems I have a wound down 18T it's seems a bit wasted... so what sort of cost is getting the rods changed over to forged rods? Does anything else need replacing whilst I'm there? Apart from arp bolts obviously :)

Thanks
Rich

[Volvostorm]

Its a complete engine strip and rebuilt, so, basically you need everything!

Not cheap, but, you can get away with a headset and the Volvo special goo for sticking the engine together.

[p fandango]

LINK (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-850-C70-T5-2-3L-B5234T-conrod-con-rod-connecting-rod-rods-pleuel-bielle-/320903124216?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car%20Make%3AVolvo&hash=item4ab75114f8&_uhb=1#ht_3275wt_960), £370 including bolts

[woody]

Hi Rich.

My THS rods cost me circa.£350, arp bolts included. Obviously a new set of shells would be wise. Not all engines, but mine needed the base of the bores machining to enable the rods to rotate freely. The instructions that came with the Rods did warn this was a possiblity. For a good engine engineering company, it's a common and easy job to complete.

Oh and whilst you have the head off, you may as well refurb it! £££££££££££ lol

Go for it!

[Richy200]

Haha I'd love to just go for it believe me.

I'll look into it ;) where did your rods come from?? I just don't see the point in wasting this turbo by having it turned down :(

[woody]

Got mine off 'benG' (Ceri) on here. Give 'Niles' a poke , he may be able to help too.

[Wobbly Dave]

I spent over 400 on my rods and 500 on wiseco forged pistons. With new turbo mapping etc probably looking at 4 to 5k.u can make some bits cheaper. eg if u for go using a donor engine to keep the current car otr.

[T5frankie]

if you're are gonna think about forging the engine then you may as well fit a bigger turbo than an 18t, stick a 15g on and turn it up a bit, when i put that ecu in a 15g auto motor it went very well indeed, in fact emlyn said he had never felt any map so aggressive and quick

[Richy200]

Well what is the 18T good for then lol. As can't run it on a standard engine with decent boost as it'll bend the rods.. I enjoy the car how she is now as she certainly shifts but I'm majorly concerned over breaking something as the other night I did hear a faint knocking, I haven't heard it since but I havent used full throttle since.

So what's the best way forward I want reliable power as I certainly haven't got it at the moment as I fear everytime she goes past 4K she is going to die especially as its started to boost cut recently. which ive been told is to do with the maf and running too lean. So I don't go past 3k anymore :(

[T5frankie]

Well what is the 18T good for then lol. As can't run it on a standard engine with decent boost as it'll bend the rods.. I enjoy the car how she is now as she certainly shifts but I'm majorly concerned over breaking something as the other night I did hear a faint knocking, I haven't heard it since but I havent used full throttle since.

So what's the best way forward I want reliable power as I certainly haven't got it at the moment as I fear everytime she goes past 4K she is going to die especially as its started to boost cut recently. which ive been told is to do with the maf and running too lean. So I don't go past 3k anymore :(

get another map temporarily, like a hlm310 or a rica310 get it secondhand and adjust the actuator to where it is supposed to be, that map is mental thats on it and it cheesed me off i had to turn it down lol, it shouldnt be running lean, i never had ignition cut.

[Richy200]

No it never did till I fitted a forge blanking plate and have no dump valve as it has been boosting harder now.

I'll keep an eye out for a second hand ecu then and wind the boost back to where it should be.

Cheers for the advice.

[T5frankie]

No it never did till I fitted a forge blanking plate and have no dump valve as it has been boosting harder now.

I'll keep an eye out for a second hand ecu then and wind the boost back to where it should be.

Cheers for the advice.
dont use a blanking plate without a dump valve mate, turbo will die alot earlier

[Richy200]

I read about and the boost these cars make was not high enough to be negatively effected without a dump valve?

[RiPsTa33]

I spent over 400 on my rods and 500 on wiseco forged pistons. With new turbo mapping etc probably looking at 4 to 5k.u can make some bits cheaper. eg if u for go using a donor engine to keep the current car otr.


4-5k?

[T5frankie]

I read about and the boost these cars make was not high enough to be negatively effected without a dump valve?

really? up to 20 psi is alot of boost most cars run nowhere near that amount

[Wobbly Dave]

4-5k?

Total cost for the build (this is my budget)

Donor engine - 350
Rods - 500
Pistons - 500
Head work & engine boar & rebuild cost - 500 estimated
rebuild engine parts (gaskets, new bearings, shells, PCV etc) - 400 estimated
S60R exhaust manifold - 140
Garrett GT turbo Plus ancillaries (oil & water lines, gaskets, actuator etc) - 1200 estimated
Custom Remapping - ???? T& M dependant

So maybe 5K is too much but there will not be much change out of 4 grand.

There maybe some savings to be had. I have had more headwork done than perhaps needed, plus there are additional costs for messing up the removal of the original headbolts; Wobbly is as wobbly does.

I can reduce the budget by sticking to mitsi based turbos e.g. clipping & reworking my 19T.

[Richy200]

really? up to 20 psi is alot of boost most cars run nowhere near that amount

I know boost figures for 3 of my friends... 1 is 20psi, 1 is 22.3psi and the other is 16/17psi all the original turbo to the vehicle. I'd consider 30psi to be high.

I think 20 is just above average.

I can't get the dump valve to just dump anyway I get half chatter and half dump which is annoying.


In terms of engine build it means I could have it done for around £1400/1500 as I only see forged rods being necessary so rods, get the head cleaned up and a rebuild. Seems reasonable so something to consider for the new year.