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hybriduno
Sunday 2nd September 2012, 10:36
hi all thanks for reading this.
I have my project all ready to run but cant get no spark or injector clicks etc.
All sensors are connected to the ecu an i have the following connected:

from what i can see this is what i need to connect to the battery.

to a positive feed > a12 (blu/red) a26 (red)

to negative feed > a13 (blk) a28 (blk) a42 (brn)

coil pack yel/wht goes to b11 coil pack blk goes to earth coilpack blu/red goes to positive

i think i got that right. if i havent then please correct me if i have then wtf aint i done right lol.

do i need to override a previous immobilizer?
all i have is the engine >loom from engine to ecu> ecu unit and a foot of wire the other end.


MANY thanks

glock19
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 04:15
What is the ECU number ? There's immo for the later years.

A12 - Ignition Switch, so it's not always 12V.
A26 - Permanent 12V

On the B side, (ECT, TPS, TCV, Fuel Pump, etc), you need to ground the signal to B28.
Have you done this ?

hybriduno
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 07:18
What is the ECU number ? There's immo for the later years.

A12 - Ignition Switch, so it's not always 12V.
A26 - Permanent 12V

On the B side, (ECT, TPS, TCV, Fuel Pump, etc), you need to ground the signal to B28.
Have you done this ?

i have the fuel pump on a separate system and on my diagram it says that b28 is to the accelerometer? is this correct maybe this is my ££££ up glock19 :) maybe this is where you win a beer on me :)

p fandango
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 07:52
B28 on my diagram is empty, i cross referenced the wiring off my car's ecu so defo going nothing wired there.

sorry i didn't get back to you PM Hybriduno, i'm useless at getting back to people.

being from a 1996-7 car i think it'll have an immobiliser. I can think of 2 ways off the top of my head, find the original transponder ring & key & leave them taped together hidden in the car somewhere. Or see if the immobiliser can be removed via a remap

hybriduno
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 20:44
B28 on my diagram is empty, i cross referenced the wiring off my car's ecu so defo going nothing wired there.

sorry i didn't get back to you PM Hybriduno, i'm useless at getting back to people.

being from a 1996-7 car i think it'll have an immobiliser. I can think of 2 ways off the top of my head, find the original transponder ring & key & leave them taped together hidden in the car somewhere. Or see if the immobiliser can be removed via a remap


Not a problem :) ive had a look at the wiring to the imob and all i can see is that it stops the starter from turning? i may be well off but that's what it looks like to me.

anyway in my dumb overlooking i found the main relay was missing from the loom :( (doh) so i put it on there and when i apply the ign feed to the ecu @ a12 i get a humming now from the idle cont valve :) and its the same power that feeds the injectors :) anyway i also came to a strange find too.

i have 3 different coils and none of them even when fitted independently create a spark unless i keep flicking the positive over the + terminal.

so i removed the dizzy and its seen its day as it looked all burnt up and worn out. i ordered a new dizzy/rotor/leads/coil pack .

I'll keep you guy's upto speed but i got a trip to Scotland so ill be away till Thursday night. but that gives me Friday afternoon and a full Saturday on her :)

p fandango
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 20:58
ive had a look at the wiring to the imob and all i can see is that it stops the starter from turning? i may be well off but that's what it looks like to me
i think you'll find it immobilises more than just the starter. I tried a M4.4 ecu & it wouldn't run, i've got the starter on a push button so the ecu was also stopping the ignition

hybriduno
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 21:03
i think you'll find it immobilises more than just the starter. I tried a M4.4 ecu & it wouldn't run, i've got the starter on a push button so the ecu was also stopping the ignition

Well i'll take a look this friday/sat in more detail :) you should come help me lol. ill buy u a beer ;)

p fandango
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 21:05
Well i'll take a look this friday/sat in more detail :) you should come help me lol. ill buy u a beer ;)
i'd take you up on that but i'm a bit far away

hybriduno
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 21:37
found this on a site :)

just an fyi.
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/850r-immobiliser-removal-24922/

p fandango
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 21:49
found this on a site :)

just an fyi.
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/850r-immobiliser-removal-24922/
bit of a toss immobiliser if its that easy to bypass, personally i can't see it being that simple as it was added to get Thatcham approval

hybriduno
Tuesday 4th September 2012, 21:54
bit of a toss immobiliser if its that easy to bypass, personally i can't see it being that simple as it was added to get Thatcham approval

I totally agree :) ill see what happens when i get back from my trip :) thanks for your help though bud :)

glock19
Wednesday 5th September 2012, 00:28
i have the fuel pump on a separate system and on my diagram it says that b28 is to the accelerometer? is this correct maybe this is my ££££ up glock19 :) maybe this is where you win a beer on me :)

B1 – Accelerometer Power Supply
B2 – Torque Limiter Signal (From Auto)
B3 – Torque Limiter Signal (From Auto)
B4 – Torque Limiter Signal (To Auto)
B5 – Diagnostic
B6 – AC Compressor Signal
B7 – MIL Signal
B8 – nil
B9 – AC Pressure Signal
B10 – nil
B11 – Ignition Discharge Module
B12 – Load Torque Signal (To Auto)
B13 – nil
B14 – nil
B15 – nil
B16 – nil
B17 – nil
B18 – Vehicle Speed Signal
B19 – nil
B20 – TPS
B21 – Tachometer Signal
B22 – nil
B23 – ECT
B24 – Idle Speed Compensation (From Auto)
B25 – AC Relay Status
B26 – MIL (From Auto)
B27 – Fuel Pump Signal
B28 – Sensor Ground
B29 – AC Pressure Sensor Power
B30 – nil
B31 – nil
B32 – Accelerometer Signal
B33 – nil
B34 – nil
B35 – nil
B36 – OBD K-Line
B37 – nil
B38 – nil
B39 – Fuel Consumption Signal
B40 – AC Relay Signal
B41 – TCV
B42 – TC Pressure Limiter (From Auto)
B43 – nil

glock19
Wednesday 5th September 2012, 00:31
Get an older ECU without immo or remap it if it's the issue. Starter still cranks even when immo is active

hybriduno
Thursday 6th September 2012, 07:46
Thanks for that,although I'm sure there's a way to wire round the imob if that's my issue :|
Can't wait to get home and try lol.

glock19
Friday 7th September 2012, 01:41
Immo code is in the ECU program. I believe it's a pulse thing (or square wave signal), not an on/off switching which you can hardwire through.

hybriduno
Friday 7th September 2012, 18:37
**UPDATE** after fitting a new coil/dizzy/rotor and a check over the wires i now have a spark and noise from the engine. on turn over the engine fires once but fails to carry on.
I will take a look at what i can find tomz :) but its good progress for me :) as she is finally firing (ish) spraying fuel into the intake helps but it wont run correctly yet :)

as i had to rush out i ran out of time. ill post more info tom as i find it

Does anyone know?? does the ecu require a feed back from the pump to the ecu to keep it firing?

thanks guys

p fandango
Friday 7th September 2012, 18:56
Does anyone know?? does the ecu require a feed back from the pump to the ecu to keep it firing?

i've got the standard ECU wiring controlling a relay for the fuel pumps if that makes sense, the circuit is still made to the ECU & it can still shut down the pumps if it thinks it needs to. I've also got them on seperate switches as well so i can turn each pump off as i want

hybriduno
Friday 7th September 2012, 19:28
Ill wire up the pump relay tomz and try that :) i could have even got pump back to front lol

hybriduno
Saturday 8th September 2012, 10:58
Still nothing after looking at the wiring again. but what i did find out is, if i disconnect the cylinder nearest the flywheel. (1?) then it will not fire at all.
i have now got the fuel pump all running off the original relay,via the ecu (how it would have been).

disappointing for me as i thought id have her running today :( so now im on the look out for an older ecu from a 94 age (ish) to try that ecu instead as has been suggested

so if anyone has one please help :)

glock19
Monday 10th September 2012, 00:17
Confirm your HT leads from the ditributor to the head. Any pair which is wrongly inserted will inhibit starting. Firing sequence is 1-2-4-5-3 and I think the lowest point at the Dizzy is 2 - you need to check with others about this.

Also what's your ECU number ?

hybriduno
Monday 10th September 2012, 07:06
all confirmed working and in sequence ecu number is.

0 261 203 851

hybriduno
Monday 10th September 2012, 18:58
ok. 2 video's

Video number 1 = turn over and number 5 slight firing.
video number 2 = turnover with easy start = more of a fire.


http://youtu.be/y3Ez-Z0PlAQ

hybriduno
Monday 10th September 2012, 18:58
http://youtu.be/z-2MGaWoOEA

glock19
Tuesday 11th September 2012, 02:17
Your ECU is a late 850-T5 manual which comes with immo.
Your key hole has the transducer ring and the key is an original ?
Any spark from the HT leads ?
Are the injectors okay ?
Is the fuel rail pressurised ?
Did you take out the gearbox and did you bend the flywheel ?
The crank sensor is the correct one to trace the flywheel grooves ?

After a very prolonged storage, the hydraulic lifters at the cylinder head valves needs to be pressured to close the combustion chamber.
How long did you crank ? Was the throttle pedal fully depressed during this time ?