MOT record showing a pattern..?

[JamesT5]

Hi

I'm taking the unusual step of putting some the dates and results of the MOT's for my 2001 V70 on here because I want to see if anyone else can see the pattern or the 'achilles heal' of this car, and I'm also interested to know whether this is a P2 characteristic or whether it's just my car that it's happening to. Here's a basic summary of every MOT test since 2006 as taken from the online VOSA records. I've ommitted test numbers and just put the vitals up........

Date of test:
07/03/2006

Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
117,728 Miles

Advisory Notice issued

N/s/r tyre low 2mm



Date of test:
20/03/2007

Certificate issue refused (Fail)

Odometer reading:
141,336 Miles

Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate


Nearside Headlamp aim too low (1.8)
Windscreen has damage to an area in excess of a 10mm circle within zone 'A' (8.3.1a)
Front both Steering lock stop damaged (2.2.D.2c)



Advisory Notice issued


Both front Suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
Both rear Anti-roll bar rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
Front Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)



Date of test: (This is a retest)
23/03/2007

Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
141,413 Miles

No Advisory Notice issued


Date of test:
04/03/2008

Certificate issue refused (Fail)

Odometer reading:
163,354 Miles

Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate


Nearside Front Suspension arm worn and seriously weakened (2.4.G.1)
Offside Front Suspension arm worn and seriously weakened (2.4.G.1)
Offside Front Bonded suspension unit bonding failed and part of unit is likely to become displaced (2.4.F.2)



Advisory Notice issued


Slight movement both front steering rods slight cracking both front brake hoses


Date of test: (This is a retest)
06/03/2008

Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
163,450 Miles

Advisory Notice issued

Slight movement both front steering rods slight cracking both front brake hoses



Date of test:
17/03/2009

Certificate issue refused (Fail)

Odometer reading:
183,596 Miles

Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate


Nearside Front position lamp(s) not working (1.1.A.3b)
Nearside Front suspension has excessive play in a lower suspension ball joint (2.5.B.1a)
Nearside Front Shock absorber has a serious fluid leak (2.7.3)


Advisory Notice issued


Limited life front brakes slight play in o/s track rod


Date of test: (This is a restest)
18/03/2009

Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
183,596 Miles

No Advisory Notice issued


Date of test:
02/03/2010

Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
202,951 Miles

Advisory Notice issued

Nearside Front Brake hose slightly deteriorated (3.6.B.4d)
Offside Front Brake hose slightly deteriorated (3.6.B.4d)
Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
Rear brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (3.5.1i)



Date of test:
01/03/2011

Certificate issue refused (Fail)

Odometer reading:
214,360 Miles

Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate


Offside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)
Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.2)



No Advisory Notice issued


Date of test: (Thsi is a retest)
01/03/2011

Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
214,360 Miles

No Advisory Notice issued


Date of test:
01/03/2012
Certificate issued (Pass)

Odometer reading:
223,041 Miles

Advisory Notice issued


Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
Offside Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
Front inside Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
Front brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (3.5.1i)
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover damaged, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.4.G.2)


Now then, can you see a common reason for the MOT failures? I can and I'm interested to hear everyones opinion on this.

Regards

James

[nobananas]

:confused:

[JamesT5]

I know, I posted it by accident before I'd finished it and then couldn't find the delete button so I had to put any old stuff in until I could edit it all properly and repost it. How annoying. Maybe we should have a prompt built in to the website to ask "Are you sure you want to post this now?", that way we won't accidentally hit 'post' before we're ready.....


:confused:

[nobananas]

I'm guessing front track control arm bushes and front bottom balljoints which are pretty common on P2's. You are doing a fair old mileage between MOTs and are the replacement parts going on genuine or pattern ?. I know from experience that the pattern wishbones bushes have a very short life.

[JamesT5]

I'm guessing front track control arm bushes and front bottom balljoints which are pretty common on P2's. You are doing a fair old mileage between MOTs and are the replacement parts going on genuine or pattern ?. I know from experience that the pattern wishbones bushes have a very short life.

I didn't own the car at the times of these failures, I've only had it since March and so I can't comment on whether the parts fitted were OE or not. You've noticed the constant suspension part failures though, which is making me think this whole suspension design is particulary susceptible to premature wear and tear.

Regards

James

[M-R-P]

In all honesty and in my own experience, it reads like a car belonging to somebody who drove it hard and used substandard parts for repairs.

the nearside tyre wear is a characteristic of exiting roundabouts hard and the wishbone bushes wouldnt fail that often if they were genuine volvo ones (usually)

I dont think there's an ongoing problem with the car but Id like to see the opinion of any mechanics reading this, incase I've misses anything.

I posted this in the other thread of the same name but it seems to have got lost lol.

[JamesT5]

The orignal owner had it for most of it's life, it was a comapny car used by a Director (or two) of a ceramics company in Stoke on Trent. The high mileage was a result of trips to and from Scotland on a regular basis, I assume mostly on motorways.

My instinct is the same as yours Martin, a driver who absolutely floored it constantly and then braked harshly at the last minute, hence the brake wear. I tend to drive much more carefully so I hope the issues won't crop up so often.

The guy I brought the car of only had it about a week, apparantly because his wife wanted an automatic version and this is a manual. This would fit in because they live only about a mile (if that) from me and they now have a 52 plate auto version.

Regards

James


In all honesty and in my own experience, it reads like a car belonging to somebody who drove it hard and used substandard parts for repairs.

the nearside tyre wear is a characteristic of exiting roundabouts hard and the wishbone bushes wouldnt fail that often if they were genuine volvo ones (usually)

I dont think there's an ongoing problem with the car but Id like to see the opinion of any mechanics reading this, incase I've misses anything.

I posted this in the other thread of the same name but it seems to have got lost lol.

[JamesT5]

By the way, anyone know exactly what the "front bonded suspension unit" is?

[M-R-P]

theres 2 different bushes on the wishbone, one cylindrical one, one disk type. I believe it to be the disk one.

[JamesT5]

Look at the 2007 test failures, one is to do with damaged steering stops. Any coincidence that I changed steerring stops myself a few weeks back because the old ones were worn, and any coincidence that I get a nasty scraping sound on full right lock...? I'm going to be investigating that when I do the suspension overhaul in the next couple of weeks.

[V70 Graham]

MOT'd mine this morning guess what.....

Advisory : Nearside front Anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)

The car passed ok :smile: and I'll soon be changing the droplinks for uprated items from PFV, been through the cars history, not had this problem before, still she's only done 60,527 miles and I do drive like 'Miss Daisy' lol

[y2blade]

The front suspension really is a carp set-up on these isn't it :(

[M-R-P]

Look at the 2007 test failures, one is to do with damaged steering stops. Any coincidence that I changed steerring stops myself a few weeks back because the old ones were worn, and any coincidence that I get a nasty scraping sound on full right lock...? I'm going to be investigating that when I do the suspension overhaul in the next couple of weeks.
Scraping is a characteristic on these, mine scrapes and most of my front end has been replaced. It'll be worth checking to see if the wheel arch lining had moved or dropped.

MOT'd mine this morning guess what.....

Advisory : Nearside front Anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)

The car passed ok :smile: and I'll soon be changing the droplinks for uprated items from PFV, been through the cars history, not had this problem before, still she's only done 60,527 miles and I do drive like 'Miss Daisy' lol
I'll keep saying it... the most mechanically sound car I've seen for it's age.

The front suspension really is a carp set-up on these isn't it :(
Incredibly nose-heavy cars these, that's why powerflexing the front end is such a good idea.

[JamesT5]

Just goes to show the suspension on these just isn't up to the job. You'd think Volvo would have designed a suspension that actually lasts, or do they want it to keep going so we have to walk in to their parts departments and get ripped off time and time again. No wonder they make a huge mark up on their suspension parts, cause they know the parts wear quickly. You can't tell me that the Volvo drop links are worth an extra £45 each over the Delphi ones.

They don't call them 'Main Stealers' for nothing you know!

Regards

James

MOT'd mine this morning guess what.....

Advisory : Nearside front Anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)

The car passed ok :smile: and I'll soon be changing the droplinks for uprated items from PFV, been through the cars history, not had this problem before, still she's only done 60,527 miles and I do drive like 'Miss Daisy' lol

[M-R-P]

In all fairness, my shocks and wishbones lasted 180k. admittedly, they weren't too healthy when they came off but they lasted.

[JamesT5]

In all fairness, my shocks and wishbones lasted 180k. admittedly, they weren't too healthy when they came off but they lasted.

Looks like my front ones were changed at about 183,000 when the car failed on a leaky shock on the MOT. The car has done about 229,000 now, so that's about 45 - 50K miles on the front shocks. As for the rears I have no idea, they're probably the originals which is why I got 2 - 3 bounces off them today when I did the bounce test, before the car stopped goinig 'boing boing boing'.

[M-R-P]

Wish the back end of mine had a bit of bounce in it, bloody thing feels like it's been welded solid lol.

50k on substandard shocks would be right, if they were good/oe shocks they should last longer.

[JamesT5]

By the way, anyone know what size ball joint splitter I'll need? I'm thinking just one of those fork shaped things should do it, right?

[JamesT5]

Wish the back end of mine had a bit of bounce in it, bloody thing feels like it's been welded solid lol.

50k on substandard shocks would be right, if they were good/oe shocks they should last longer.

I've just brought 2 front Delphi track rods off ebay for about £33 delivered. Apparantly the Delphi parts are considered to be a good quality yet a fraction of the cost of oe parts. I'm tempte to agree, I hate to think what 2 track roads would cost from a main stealer!

[S1mon]

I've just brought 2 front Delphi track rods off ebay for about £33 delivered. Apparantly the Delphi parts are considered to be a good quality yet a fraction of the cost of oe parts. I'm tempte to agree, I hate to think what 2 track roads would cost from a main stealer!

Isn't ALL non genuine gear advertised as being 'OE quality' or 'these guys make the OE parts...blah blah'? From my own experience, fitting non-gen stuff is a massive false economy. Looking at your car's MOT history, it seems pretty obvious to me that whenever it's been repaired to get it through tests, it has been with cheap non-gen parts. Main dealer parts prices are not a huge amount dearer than their non-gen counterparts (in some cases they're actually cheaper!) yet they last FAR longer than non-gen and generally make your car drive as it should! This especially applies to suspension components as they take a battering! The track rods you've bought should be fine, they don't take much abuse, but if you need to start replacing ball joints / shocks / springs / bushes etc. do yourself a favour and spend a little more on genuine equipment. (Or in the case of bushes, Powerflex!)

IMO, the home mechanic doesn't save much money (especially in the long run) by not using genuine gear. The only time the dealers become stealers is when you start paying them to fit said parts. DO IT RIGHT...DO IT ONCE! ............. and yourself!! Lol.

[M-R-P]

There are (and I'm not looking to start any sort of argument) different grades of OE in my experience.
For example -
Gsf sell 3 different "OE" front disks for my car...
£45 - some unheard of brand which is "as good as",
£60 - Standard OE made by Pagid which Volvo use in the factory iirc
£86 - High quality OE made by Brembo which were what my car had when it left leicestershire plod.

Same goes with other parts,
OE shocks are £120 a pair,
Boge automatic shocks, proven to last longer, £190 a pair.

Yes, if you spend peanuts, don't be surprised if it falls apart in your hands but it does pay to do your homework and weigh - up the cost against the likelihood of (and duration before) failure, taking into account the probable use and abuse those parts will be subjected to.

[S1mon]

Agreed! Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to provoke argument either. Just my view. As I said before, there are some things that, if you've research and you get correct, you can get away with going non-gen. Brake disc being one of those things. Brake pads however I'd personally only fit genuine ones as I've found some non-gen ones are so solid they eat the discs! Shocks I'd personally rather fit genuine too.

[JamesT5]

Isn't ALL non genuine gear advertised as being 'OE quality' or 'these guys make the OE parts...blah blah'? From my own experience, fitting non-gen stuff is a massive false economy. Looking at your car's MOT history, it seems pretty obvious to me that whenever it's been repaired to get it through tests, it has been with cheap non-gen parts. Main dealer parts prices are not a huge amount dearer than their non-gen counterparts (in some cases they're actually cheaper!) yet they last FAR longer than non-gen and generally make your car drive as it should! This especially applies to suspension components as they take a battering! The track rods you've bought should be fine, they don't take much abuse, but if you need to start replacing ball joints / shocks / springs / bushes etc. do yourself a favour and spend a little more on genuine equipment. (Or in the case of bushes, Powerflex!)

IMO, the home mechanic doesn't save much money (especially in the long run) by not using genuine gear. The only time the dealers become stealers is when you start paying them to fit said parts. DO IT RIGHT...DO IT ONCE! ............. and yourself!! Lol.

I don't entirely agree with this mate. I cannot see how £60 for one drop link is justified at all, vs a perfectly respectable £15 each for a Delphi unit, and Delphi are a popular and durable brand as you're well aware. Even the parts chap at my local Stealers said that off the record, he'd use non genuine parts himself as the OE parts are hiddiously over priced and certainly not worth the extra £45 per link. You can't tell me that I should be spending an extra £90 on the front end on drop links alone, if you do, I would swear blind you worked for Volvo! :-)

I've never once come across OE parts that are cheaper, never. The only thing that has ever worked out cheaper is some radiator coolant (not a part in my opinion), although that is debated somewhat since it cost me to drive to the stealers to buy it. If anyone believes that only buying OE parts is the best option because they'll far outlast non genuine parts has to, in my opinion be totally deluded.

Car manufacturers make a massive mark-up on parts to make up for the puny profits they make on the vehicles themselves, it makes perfect business sense if you think about it. They bank on gullible owners/drivers buying in to their, "only use genuine parts to ensure you won't damage your car" and, "only a trained Volvo technician should carry out this work as they have the skills, training and equipment" type statments. That way people will instinctively go for the 'safe option', sticking with the people who made their car thinking that if they buy their parts, 'everything will be ok'.

Notice how our owners manuals are full of these "Warning" sections to scare us in to using the main stealers and racking up stupidly high profits on parts and labour for them. I absolutely refuse to believe that these pattern parts are so bad they should be avoided in favour of OE stuff and even if you had to change the parts twice as often, at 4 times less expensive they're still cheaper!

Regards

James

[JamesT5]

And by the way, what my MOT history shows is that the original owner drove like a complete nutter with absolutely no regard to the consequences. That might also go a long way to explaining the extensive respray work the car has had too. "Bull in a china shop" springs to mind...........

Thankfully, the current owner is actually going to give the car some TLC. :D

[M-R-P]

Hmm yes James, I agree.
OE parts are (with Volvo) made by another company and branded with the Volvo name. Volvo will however charge a huge amount more for said part. Companys like GSF (not always euro, as they can sell inferior pattern parts at times) will sell you parts, made by the company that makes parts for your Volvo and almost always give a better warranty than Volvo will (they only gave me 12 months on my bloody DIM when a Polish feller will give me 2 years on one he resoldered himself for 85 quid)

Once and only once has main stealers been cheaper than pattern...
Inlet manifold gasket
£6.45 from stealer...
£13.99 from euro.

I only go from experience, what I know to be fact, My advice... Shop around people - don't be afraid to ask a dealer how much - you can always say it's too much and you're going elsewhere.