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edgeyt5
Saturday 9th June 2012, 14:09
noticed just today my exhaust manifold making a sount like a bust exhaust on start up ,got it on the ramps at my sons work and two bolts were loose and one had sheered of ,managed to get one tight cant reach the other as its right in the right hand corner ,
so my question to you guys how hard a job to drill out bolt :cussing:await your replys
roy

merc85
Saturday 9th June 2012, 14:24
noticed just today my exhaust manifold making a sount like a bust exhaust on start up ,got it on the ramps at my sons work and two bolts were loose and one had sheered of ,managed to get one tight cant reach the other as its right in the right hand corner ,
so my question to you guys how hard a job to drill out bolt :cussing:await your replys
roy


what car is it?

edgeyt5
Saturday 9th June 2012, 14:36
hi there s60 t5 2001 2.3

edgeyt5
Saturday 9th June 2012, 15:30
anyone

merc85
Saturday 9th June 2012, 15:38
I take it we are talking about the exhaust manifold not the inlet.

If you cant or can hardly get your hand up there how are you going to drill it?

It would be a engine out job, does the stud have to be drilled? they are very tough.

You should be ablt to get you hand up there with a 1/4 drive rachet to nip the other's up, it's certainly alot eaiser to get under the car to do it.

edgeyt5
Saturday 9th June 2012, 15:46
ye exhaust manifold prob could have got it but my sons boss wanted to lock up so prob have to put it to my garage i use is it big job to take engine out ,what sort of cost would i b looking at
cheers for replyin thanks

merc85
Saturday 9th June 2012, 16:00
If it's the same as a 850 t5, then it's not that difficult. The whole engine and box usually gets lowered down on the subframe.

Once off course everything has been disconnected. as for cost quite a bit at a garage i reckon as it's time consuming.

edgeyt5
Saturday 9th June 2012, 16:03
thanks for that mate much appreciated

Jamest5r
Saturday 9th June 2012, 17:13
It depends how far down the bolt has sheared, if its just the nut and very top then you might be able to get some purchase on it to turn it after you get the mani off that is. If it's proper screwed like in pic below which happened to me then engine out drill into the bolt then reverse tap it out.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy185/jamesclancy/rebuild004.jpg

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy185/jamesclancy/rebuild2001.jpg

Lucky for me my block was on the floor at the time.

LeeT5
Saturday 9th June 2012, 19:33
It's a common fault that the bolts work loose. Iv'e tightened mine up twice since owning the car. Doesn't take long with the heat shields out the way thou. However, drilling out the old stud will be an engine out job.

edgeyt5
Sunday 10th June 2012, 13:05
thanks again guys for the help was hopin not to have to take engine out whats the time scale and a rough price on this job
cheers

edgeyt5
Sunday 10th June 2012, 15:31
anyone

graemewelch
Sunday 10th June 2012, 16:16
taking the egine out is a bit extreme for a snaped bolt. can you not live with it. at worst take the head off but if was me. id leave it

edgeyt5
Tuesday 12th June 2012, 19:38
hi soz for the delay
ye thanks that is an option doesnt seem so extreme as takin out engine im goin to try and tighten the far right one first have to take heat sheild over turbo ,can the heat sheild b removed from the top cause im doin it on the drive
roy

LeeT5
Thursday 14th June 2012, 19:15
hi soz for the delay
ye thanks that is an option doesnt seem so extreme as takin out engine im goin to try and tighten the far right one first have to take heat sheild over turbo ,can the heat sheild b removed from the top cause im doin it on the drive
roy

There are two heat shields. The first one that you undo cannot be easily removed out the engine bay therefore, just slide it to the left and down as far as it will go. It will give you tonnes of clearance to access the Turbo heatshield, which can be fully removed with a bit of jiggery pokery.

Personally, i think you'll find that if you leave one bolt/ stud loose the the exhaust will blow slightly. That, personally, would get on my T*Ts. I do not know of any other way around your problem other than engine removal OR head off. I would find a good Volvo specialist local to you and discuss the two options and see what he thinks is the best way to attck the problem as well as being the cheapest. From my point of view, leaving a stud snapped is not an option.

edgeyt5
Friday 15th June 2012, 06:31
hi lee thanks for your reply mate
ill try and remove the sheilds try tighten up that end bolt thats ware it blowin from most , think volvo b expensive for time mate see how the bolt goes first
thanks again
roy