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kfc
Monday 7th May 2012, 21:03
Hi guys, what should my S70R be running as standard Boost pressure wise. and what can i whind it to safely. and is the best way of adjustment through the actuator or by way of a bleed valve?
it has a HLM 304 tune on it if that matters!

t5 pete
Monday 7th May 2012, 21:13
With the 304 they usually run around 14-16psi the boost can be altered by the acuator but it depends on the condition of the actuator other options are mbc or a ebc.

960kg
Tuesday 8th May 2012, 17:36
Just for information of my experiences with the HLM304 map.....

I did mine by Royal Mail and a few days later i had in the post the re-mapped ECU which was the same Bosch number exactly as i had sent Hamish, i then sent my own original ECU back.

Upon fitting i immediately drove the car as i intended to so the ECU got used to my drive style quickly.......it did go really well once i had fitted a new TCV from Volvo( i don`t like MBC, and i have used them) The power comes in at 3000 revs as supposed to and once really on the move suddenly rushes in 3500 to 4000.......then tails off gradually, but does hold 14/15psi at speed in 5th gear.....that was with 2 turns of the actuator from standard.

Of course the bug then hits and you want more especially as i see 18psi mentioned regularly.......so i turned up the actuator another 2 turns so that = 4 turns from standard and i could then see a solid 18psi on the guage.



On this setting the boost still comes in at 3000 but from 3500 onwards the boost gives a really strong pull all the way with no sudden rush as before but to a far higher rev. band and not lower as usually mentioned....

I have read on other sites owners who are really arrogant about these remaps but really they have no idea how good they can be, they say they are tyre burners but i don`t find that at all ( it does depend if you are a driver or not with sensitive feet) Yes, i can pull away rapidly with hardly any spin then floor it and spin is there if i want it but i don`t see the point.

I don`t pretend to know all about a turbo`s behaviour and do speak as i find, with more turns of the actuator, the power was much more severe but evened out with more as well.

The fuel consumption seems very similar according to where or how often the throttle is to the floor but once eased off it drives just as with no re-map at all and gives 30mpg at 70mph.

I still have to have my dyno done but at the moment the V70 is completely standard apart from the map, so i want my exhaust done before the dyno.

1260pete
Monday 14th May 2012, 20:44
Just for information of my experiences with the HLM304 map.....

I did mine by Royal Mail and a few days later i had in the post the re-mapped ECU which was the same Bosch number exactly as i had sent Hamish, i then sent my own original ECU back.

Upon fitting i immediately drove the car as i intended to so the ECU got used to my drive style quickly.......it did go really well once i had fitted a new TCV from Volvo( i don`t like MBC, and i have used them) The power comes in at 3000 revs as supposed to and once really on the move suddenly rushes in 3500 to 4000.......then tails off gradually, but does hold 14/15psi at speed in 5th gear.....that was with 2 turns of the actuator from standard.

Of course the bug then hits and you want more especially as i see 18psi mentioned regularly.......so i turned up the actuator another 2 turns so that = 4 turns from standard and i could then see a solid 18psi on the guage.



On this setting the boost still comes in at 3000 but from 3500 onwards the boost gives a really strong pull all the way with no sudden rush as before but to a far higher rev. band and not lower as usually mentioned....

I have read on other sites owners who are really arrogant about these remaps but really they have no idea how good they can be, they say they are tyre burners but i don`t find that at all ( it does depend if you are a driver or not with sensitive feet) Yes, i can pull away rapidly with hardly any spin then floor it and spin is there if i want it but i don`t see the point.

I don`t pretend to know all about a turbo`s behaviour and do speak as i find, with more turns of the actuator, the power was much more severe but evened out with more as well.

The fuel consumption seems very similar according to where or how often the throttle is to the floor but once eased off it drives just as with no re-map at all and gives 30mpg at 70mph.

I still have to have my dyno done but at the moment the V70 is completely standard apart from the map, so i want my exhaust done before the dyno.

mmm is that the same motor as the v70 t5 mate? i'm getting mine mapped this week and if i can turn it up on the actuator a bit more then its all good fun lol

LiamT4
Monday 14th May 2012, 20:47
mmm is that the same motor as the v70 t5 mate? i'm getting mine mapped this week and if i can turn it up on the actuator a bit more then its all good fun lol

That depends on which v70 you have and the turbo on it. If yours is the 2.3 with the 16t turbo, then yes yours should be similar, but the later t5s had a 2.4 with a kkk turbo.

T5frankie
Monday 14th May 2012, 20:51
mmm is that the same motor as the v70 t5 mate? i'm getting mine mapped this week and if i can turn it up on the actuator a bit more then its all good fun lol

you shouldn't really muck about with the actuator unless the rods loose, base pressure is around 10 psi with a map 14-16psi if you want more use an mbc with a map but the mbc will bring the boost in alot earlier and aggressively

1260pete
Monday 14th May 2012, 20:53
That depends on which v70 you have and the turbo on it. If yours is the 2.3 with the 16t turbo, then yes yours should be similar, but the later t5s had a 2.4 with a kkk turbo.

mmm not sure what motor i have as its my first volvo to be honest all i know is its a 2001 t5 lol

1260pete
Monday 14th May 2012, 20:54
That depends on which v70 you have and the turbo on it. If yours is the 2.3 with the 16t turbo, then yes yours should be similar, but the later t5s had a 2.4 with a kkk turbo.aah a nice mbc it is then, i'm a bit oldskool when it comes to turb's so used to doing it with the actuator on my old cars and bikes

T5frankie
Monday 14th May 2012, 20:55
mmm not sure what motor i have as its my first volvo to be honest all i know is its a 2001 t5 lol

2.3 with an angled 16t turbo then, i didnt realise you had a phase 2, you cant use an mbc sorry lol

LiamT4
Monday 14th May 2012, 20:55
mmm not sure what motor i have as its my first volvo to be honest all i know is its a 2001 t5 lol

Yours will be the 2.3 then.

Kingsford G
Monday 14th May 2012, 21:22
you shouldn't really muck about with the actuator

Y not?It seems to b a better option than mbc as u r safe wiv rods if it gets to 18psi but controlled by sbc.

T5frankie
Monday 14th May 2012, 21:25
Y not?It seems to b a better option than mbc as u r safe wiv rods if it gets to 18psi but controlled by sbc.

for fueling reasons caused by boost creep

1260pete
Monday 14th May 2012, 21:27
2.3 with an angled 16t turbo then, i didnt realise you had a phase 2, you cant use an mbc sorry lol

aaah right just map it for power then lol and fly by wire throttle response maybe,,,

T5frankie
Monday 14th May 2012, 21:29
aaah right just map it for power then lol and fly by wire throttle response maybe,,,

£300 hlm remap will get you 270bhp and alot more torque

Kingsford G
Monday 14th May 2012, 22:23
for fueling reasons caused by boost creep

Shame innit,seemed to be a good mod tho well mbc it is than,have to watch my foot which is hard sometimes lol tbh I thought the fuelling would b adjusted by ecu as it still runs an sbc.So what is the diff between the two cos u`d expect an mbc being agressive on boost could do domething like that.

1260pete
Monday 14th May 2012, 22:46
£300 hlm remap will get you 270bhp and alot more torque

aah but a morebhp remap will cost me nothing and will be custom made to how i want it and will cost me nothing :) also they have not done a massive amount of t5s so i'll be a bit of a advertising pitch ;) so could work out very well for other people on here

960kg
Tuesday 15th May 2012, 09:28
Shame innit,seemed to be a good mod tho well mbc it is than,have to watch my foot which is hard sometimes lol tbh I thought the fuelling would b adjusted by ecu as it still runs an sbc.So what is the diff between the two cos u`d expect an mbc being agressive on boost could do domething like that.

The ECU does adjust the fuelling and if you have more boost by either method the ECU has to do the re-fuelling whatever, there are pro`s and con`s whichever way you get more boost.

On my `98 T4 i ran for 2 1/2 years with 5 turns on the actuator which gave 19psi and at that boost the AFR`s are still correct but that is the limit.

If you go the MBC route you chance the bent rod syndrome
I would rather drop a gear and put the revs up than plant the foot in a higher gear for more getaway, of course that`s if your manual!

If you go the wastegate rod way with the standard TCV it does protect the rod`s. You can also up the recirculating valve spring to stop boost leak at the higher pressures.

If my HLM map has adjusted the boost to 16psi then what difference does it make by adjusting the rod to 18psi just 2 more because the ECU will adjust because more air is going in.

After using this setting ok, i am now going to fit a 1.2bar 18psi wastegate actuator so that the wastegate arm is back in it`s standard position on the gate instead of winding it along turn by turn.

I can understand being on a Track Day or Drag Strip to get everything correct as possible but for road use where how long can one be WOT for?

So i am not arguing at all with how others arrive at the boost situation they want, there are more ways of skinning a cat, as said some 30 months of driving my T4 this way and no harm done.

LeeT5
Wednesday 30th May 2012, 09:35
just for reference purposes i thought i'd chuck my 10p worth in!

I have a P2 KKK24 and a stage 2 BSR remap. Only last week i wound the wastegate actuator rod adjuster - 1 FULL TURN - and the difference is amazing.

Prior to wastegate adjustment i was seeing lots of lagg below 2200rpm and hardly any boost until you were above that. Even then it would boost between 10 - 15psi and peak at 18.
Now the boost is immediate and starts to pull hard from 1500 rpm with boost coming in a lot lower in the rev range. i now see 10 - 15 psi boost a lot quicker with a peak boost of 21psi at 5000rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 19psi in 4th.

Theres no point in mentioning figures above that because your going so fast it too dangerous to glance at the guage! It's a huge smile factor.

One turn of the wastegate saw a difference of night and day for me, even with the remap.

Brilliant!!

Best bit was the adjustment was straight forward and only too me 45 minutes start to finish. Managed to tighten up 3 loose manifold bolts in the process too!

glock19
Friday 1st June 2012, 02:17
.......so i turned up the actuator another 2 turns so that = 4 turns from standard and i could then see a solid 18psi on the guage.

On this setting the boost still comes in at 3000 but from 3500 onwards the boost gives a really strong pull all the way with no sudden rush as before but to a far higher rev. band and not lower as usually mentioned....

I have read on other sites owners who are really arrogant about these remaps but really they have no idea how good they can be, they say they are tyre burners but i don`t find that at all ( it does depend if you are a driver or not with sensitive feet) Yes, i can pull away rapidly with hardly any spin then floor it and spin is there if i want it but i don`t see the point.

I don`t pretend to know all about a turbo`s behaviour and do speak as i find, with more turns of the actuator, the power was much more severe but evened out with more as well.



By holding the wastegate more, there's more back-pressure in the exhaust system. you increase torque (or the torque comes in sooner) and given the same hardware setup, the torque curve comes and goes much earlier in the rpm range, so once that thrill is over, you don't feel that much acceleration.

My way will be to get a bigger turbo/exhaust, bigger injector and do a remap with the new hardware, if you really want to go. But for pound-to-pound, a remap with standard ware is the most cost-effective.

960kg
Friday 1st June 2012, 10:49
By holding the wastegate more, there's more back-pressure in the exhaust system. you increase torque (or the torque comes in sooner) and given the same hardware setup, the torque curve comes and goes much earlier in the rpm range, so once that thrill is over, you don't feel that much acceleration.

My way will be to get a bigger turbo/exhaust, bigger injector and do a remap with the new hardware, if you really want to go. But for pound-to-pound, a remap with standard ware is the most cost-effective.

I do understand what you say and do agree......but as i already have a HLM304 map the thrill i get earlier is not over with, not up to 120 anyway so i am satisfied with that.
But £ for £ the remap was £150 and the actuator adjustment cost nil .......i am a believer in the first 20 or 30 bhp is fairly cheap but the next 30bhp is expensive!.........so for the expense of another turbo bigger exhaust and injectors it is not worth it for me as i only do 30 miles a week in the V70 the S40 is the cheap run around. I am going to settle for a Cherry Bomb exhaust they were around years back and i like the sound of them, will post when sorted.