Engine cut-out issue with my S80

[Caspa-Don]

Any ideas on this...

At the moment my S80 2.4t wont start because the battery is dead (that's straight forward)... the thing is... when I try to jump start it with my other car, while the jump leads are connect to it, it starts and idles comfortably as if there is nothing wrong at all but... as soon as the leads are disconnect from the other car, the engine from the S80 dies... The clocks and the warning lights on the S80 don't work (I know about this issue) but in the past has not stop the car from running and driving smoothly (this is the reason the car has not arrived at the garage as yet)... now the outcome of my method of thinking would suggest that perhaps the alternator may be at fault here as it is instrumental in charging the battery... could this be the case or am I missing something?

[LeeT5]

Any ideas on this...

At the moment my S80 2.4t wont start because the battery is dead (that's straight forward)... the thing is... when I try to jump start it with my other car, while the jump leads are connect to it, it starts and idles comfortably as if there is nothing wrong at all but... as soon as the leads are disconnect from the other car, the engine from the S80 dies... The clocks and the warning lights on the S80 don't work (I know about this issue) but in the past has not stop the car from running and driving smoothly (this is the reason the car has not arrived at the garage as yet)... now the outcome of my method of thinking would suggest that perhaps the alternator may be at fault here as it is instrumental in charging the battery... could this be the case or am I missing something?

Sounds like your trying to guess whats wrong with your car?
If your car won't start cos the battery is flat then that's fine. However, once boosted it should run without the leads connected. If it doesn't then you either have two faults.

1) Battery is 'open circuit'.
2) ALternator output is NIL.

Try leaving the leads connected to the doner vehicle for 15 minutes without the S80 running. This will allow the doner vehicle to charge the battery on the S80. If it still doesn't run after the leads are disconnected then your battery is ££££ed and not accepting any charge. Check the charge rate on the S80 with a voltmeter and see what you get when you disconnect the leads. SHould be between 13.5v - 14.5v.

I would start first by testing the battery. If you can't do that then fit another battery from the doner car. The car should start and run long enough for you to carry out some basic tests.

Make sure all consumers are off before you boost aswell. You will need to test the alternator output under load, ie, consumers on.

[Harvey]

Hi just remove the battery and put on charge overnight then try it in the car, first test voltage before starting then test after the voltage should be as LEET5 says eg higher with engine running.

[local-looney]

A mates v50 had this issue,turned out to be the battery,but as above,voltage tests first to be sure....

[LeeT5]

Sounds like your trying to guess whats wrong with your car?
If your car won't start cos the battery is flat then that's fine. However, once boosted it should run without the leads connected. If it doesn't then you either have two faults.

1) Battery is 'open circuit'.
2) ALternator output is NIL.

Try leaving the leads connected to the doner vehicle for 15 minutes without the S80 running. This will allow the doner vehicle to charge the battery on the S80. If it still doesn't run after the leads are disconnected then your battery is ££££ed and not accepting any charge. Check the charge rate on the S80 with a voltmeter and see what you get when you disconnect the leads. SHould be between 13.5v - 14.5v.

I would start first by testing the battery. If you can't do that then fit another battery from the doner car. The car should start and run long enough for you to carry out some basic tests.

Make sure all consumers are off before you boost aswell. You will need to test the alternator output under load, ie, consumers on.

I did assume that the battery voltage had been checked already before trying to boost start from a doner vehicle. I will stress that if you did this and found the voltage to be around 9v or less and the battery does NOT accept any charge from the doner vehicle (only seen using an amp clamp on the Neg boost lead) then when you remove the boost leads you'll be lucky if the car continues to run by itself. I lay money on your battery being defective and absolutely nothing wrong with the alternator.

keep us posted!!