Lowering your S60r/V70R

[LeeT5]

Hi all.
I know many people have spoken about this before and lots of to do's, what to do's and what not to do's but seeing as (not meaning to blow my own trumpet) i have lowered and do NOT have any issues with rubbing wheel arches then i thought i share some preps.

I am currently running 18" Pegs with 235/40ZR18 Vredestein Sessanta's. Lowered on Eibach Pro kit with a 30mm drop allround.
Also i have TPi black alloy spacers 12mm front / 15mm rear.

I will post photos in a sec but make sure that you have brand new 'Black' steering stops (available from Volvo or PFV) fitted.

Also, while your at the dealer purchase and fit these....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0344.jpg

They protect your wheel arch liners from being ripped out should you hit a bump whilst turning and driving....and resulting in the following damage...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0346.jpg

Here they are fitted....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0347.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0345.jpg

Lowered my car looks like....

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0363.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0360.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0359.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/V70R%20Suspension/Photo0362.jpg

I can assure one and all that i do NOT suffer with rubbing or scraping wheel archs or liners. :P

Top tip. Make sure you purchase and fit the Volvo Alloy underbelly protector plate before lowering. Trust me, it will save your sump as i have since lowering scraped mine quite a few times, mainly on stupid middle of the road sleeping policeman and the odd edge of a pothole on rough bumpy ground. Its there to do a job and it does it very well!

[volvokid]

So how much roughly for the complete set up Lee??? Good write up BTW

[MattM]

Looks a little pricey, but you've done a proper job.
Like volvokid said, what's the cost break down?

[Wobbly Dave]

Are the wheel arch liner jobbies universal or only for phase 2?

[M-R-P]

think they're fitted for P2 mate, although they look nothing like the ones I have on mine, which are metal.

[M-R-P]

Hold on... Just had a look through my pics and found this...
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g413/martinrpeachey/polybushandshocks/DSCF6988.jpg
Looks like sombody's is upside down and looking at the marks on it, it'll be mine. no wonder I thought it was different! Gonna have a word with the guys who changed my timing belt...:(

[stribo]

Good tips there Lee, I've still got the lowering springs waiting to go on our S60R, just waiting for the wife, as she's not sure she want's it lowered now.:cuckoo: With the wheel spacers fitted, do you need longer wheel bolts?

[s_cowen]

Looks spot on mate :smile: whats the ride like now?

[LeeT5]

So how much roughly for the complete set up Lee??? Good write up BTW

Parts

Lower suspension arm steering limiter (black) 18mm - PFV - £5.76 each x 2
http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_535&products_id=5084
Aluminium protecting plate (Volvo only) 9451784 - £128.36
981495 plastic nut x 2 (volvo) - £1.38
9190823 protecting plate (Volvo) - £11.22
9190824 protecting plate (Volvo) - £11.22
Eibach Pro kit - £170 delivered
TPi alloy spacers (pair) eBay - £65 x 2 (total £130)
Front Spring support plate (HLM) - £56 each

Fitting

Elitedirect, Essex - 4 wheel alighnment - £49.95
Elitedirect, Essex - £50 per corner (fitting)



Are the wheel arch liner jobbies universal or only for phase 2?

Only for P2.


think they're fitted for P2 mate, although they look nothing like the ones I have on mine, which are metal.

Yes, they are metal, painted black.


Good tips there Lee, I've still got the lowering springs waiting to go on our S60R, just waiting for the wife, as she's not sure she want's it lowered now.:cuckoo: With the wheel spacers fitted, do you need longer wheel bolts?

Yes. Order the longer bolts when you order the spacers. Bin your locking wheel nuts as 1) there agro 2) you won't need them anyway!

[LeeT5]

Looks spot on mate :smile: whats the ride like now?

How i like it. Smooth on flat roads. Comfy on the motorway. Precise. Goes round corners on rails and remains flat. No roll, unless you push it in Comfort mode. In Sport its the best of both worlds. Comfy on motorway but you feel all the squashed flies on the tarmac. Not too bad on normal roads. Gotta go comfort on the rough stuff else its all over the place.

When i ever get into Advanced....well.....its proper Bo selector!!!!:B_steerin:mischievo

[Wobbly Dave]

aye - proper bo!

[LeeT5]

Hold on... Just had a look through my pics and found this...
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g413/martinrpeachey/polybushandshocks/DSCF6988.jpg
Looks like sombody's is upside down and looking at the marks on it, it'll be mine. no wonder I thought it was different! Gonna have a word with the guys who changed my timing belt...:(

LOL, MUPPETS!!! How the hell they manage that? It only goes on one way :cuckoo:

[Nick0]

Very posh Lee. I am not usually a fan of modifications but this is very subtle. In fact I can confess that I am "wel jel"! Nice one.

[LeeT5]

You will also need these to be fitted before you lower else when you drop your car on the floor your rear camber will be at least -2.50 degrees!! That will not look good and it will be dangerous to drive as all the rear alighnment is thrown miles out. Mine crabbed badly for 50 miles to the alighnment center.

Expensive but an absolute must. You must fit them to their maximum setting which is 1.50* degrees.

[stribo]

You will also need these to be fitted before you lower else when you drop your car on the floor your rear camber will be at least -2.50 degrees!! That will not look good and it will be dangerous to drive as all the rear alighnment is thrown miles out. Mine crabbed badly for 50 miles to the alighnment center.

Expensive but an absolute must. You must fit them to their maximum setting which is 1.50* degrees.

Need what fitting?

[LeeT5]

Need what fitting?

:slap:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5711/112394-rear-camber-bushing-kit

[s_cowen]

:slap:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5711/112394-rear-camber-bushing-kit

Will they need to be set after fitting the springs & while doing the 4 wheel alignment?

[Leeds_finest]

Looks spot on mate :smile: whats the ride like now?

On Eibachs I personally found the ride too harsh/crashy which I thought let the name down because they've been awesome springs on my mates cars.

I didn't find the original setup needed anything else and in fact I was disappointed that the Eibachs, in my opinion, completely cancelled out the comfort setting. Comfort and sport felt VERY similar and advanced was ridiculous...


How i like it. Smooth on flat roads. Comfy on the motorway. Precise. Goes round corners on rails and remains flat. No roll, unless you push it in Comfort mode. In Sport its the best of both worlds. Comfy on motorway but you feel all the squashed flies on the tarmac. Not too bad on normal roads. Gotta go comfort on the rough stuff else its all over the place.

When i ever get into Advanced....well.....its proper Bo selector!!!!:B_steerin:mischievo

...but i'm glad you haven't experienced this, maybe the roads round here are just poor in comparison?

As for rubbing, I think the tyre wall can have a lot to do with it, even with the same tyre size two different tyres can be the difference between rub and no rub. The Vreds were the tyre that I was running and after I fitted new black stops it almost eliminated it completely.

Remember to recalibrate the SUM after shock removal and refit ESPECIALLY when lowering and if the VIDA/DICE kicks back an error message that the car is too low on the rear end, simply jack it up a few milimetres at a time until it accepts the parameters.

:)

[LeeT5]

Will they need to be set after fitting the springs & while doing the 4 wheel alignment?

You need to fit these either during or immediately after but NOT before. Best to fit during as it will need a full wheel alighnment anyway.

[LeeT5]

On Eibachs I personally found the ride too harsh/crashy which I thought let the name down because they've been awesome springs on my mates cars.

I didn't find the original setup needed anything else and in fact I was disappointed that the Eibachs, in my opinion, completely cancelled out the comfort setting. Comfort and sport felt VERY similar and advanced was ridiculous...


...That's because you never had the latest SUM UPDATE! If you did then the crashy harsh ride is illiminated and the shocks work as they should. I can assure you all there is a definate difference between Comfort and sport.
I have brand new shocks on my car too, so i guess thats makes a big difference. The biggest difference i noticed after fitting new shocks is that the car didn't lul about in Comfort mode. It felt more stable and certainly had a crispness to it. The nose didn't pitch and roll either! Was even better after the SUM UPDATE and calibrate.. Superb!!! is all i can say.

Remember, if your car has done 80 - 100K and still on oe shocks then its time to replace (all of them).

[Leeds_finest]

...That's because you never had the latest SUM UPDATE! If you did then the crashy harsh ride is illiminated and the shocks work as they should. I can assure you all there is a definate difference between Comfort and sport.
I have brand new shocks on my car too, so i guess thats makes a big difference. The biggest difference i noticed after fitting new shocks is that the car didn't lul about in Comfort mode. It felt more stable and certainly had a crispness to it. The nose didn't pitch and roll either! Was even better after the SUM UPDATE and calibrate.. Superb!!! is all i can say.

Remember, if your car has done 80 - 100K and still on oe shocks then its time to replace (all of them).

My shocks were working as they should though, the front two were brand new and the rears were fine upon inspection when removed. They are there to dampen movement and that's exactly what they were doing... there is a clear difference in spring rate between the original springs and the Eibachs which I personally felt was unnecessary given the car has adjustable damping.

I'm almost certain that the SR/VR Eibachs are also listed for the 2.4D models etc, which don't have the 4C system - a little poor if you ask me - surely the R models require a different spring than any other model without 4C?

I didn't personally have the latest ECU update, but who knows what's been done to the car between '04 and '11. I reset the SUM as was required through VIDA and I felt that the ride was still too harsh. The difference between comfort and sport was minimal in terms of RIDE QUALITY albeit less body roll etc in sport mode. That's the whole point of a SUM recal, to compensate for the fact the cars now sitting 30mm lower. The car was fine before and was poor afterwards. If the car required an update, it would've driven poor before and after.

Although the >>>>SUM UPDATE<<<< may have helped in your instance, it will simply change the way the struts dampen the movement. In my opinion however, the added stiffness came from the SPRING not the STRUT, there was a clear difference after fitting the Eibachs and so surely an update to the SUM wouldn't change much?

It's only my opinion, people can do what they want, I didn't enjoy buying a set of springs that cost almost £200 to then remove them a few weeks later and sell them for a fraction of the original cost. They also make the 4x4 suspension look 10x better.

The roads round here are full of pot holes and speed bumps. This coupled with the fact that components such as drop links are prone to failure, I think those springs are a bad idea... IMO.

[volvokid]

My shocks were working as they should though, the front two were brand new and the rears were fine upon inspection when removed. They are there to dampen movement and that's exactly what they were doing... there is a clear difference in spring rate between the original springs and the Eibachs which I personally felt was unnecessary given the car has adjustable damping.

I'm almost certain that the SR/VR Eibachs are also listed for the 2.4D models etc, which don't have the 4C system - a little poor if you ask me - surely the R models require a different spring than any other model without 4C?

I didn't personally have the latest ECU update, but who knows what's been done to the car between '04 and '11. I reset the SUM as was required through VIDA and I felt that the ride was still too harsh. The difference between comfort and sport was minimal in terms of RIDE QUALITY albeit less body roll etc in sport mode. That's the whole point of a SUM recal, to compensate for the fact the cars now sitting 30mm lower. The car was fine before and was poor afterwards. If the car required an update, it would've driven poor before and after.

Although the >>>>SUM UPDATE<<<< may have helped in your instance, it will simply change the way the struts dampen the movement. In my opinion however, the added stiffness came from the SPRING not the STRUT, there was a clear difference after fitting the Eibachs and so surely an update to the SUM wouldn't change much?

It's only my opinion, people can do what they want, I didn't enjoy buying a set of springs that cost almost £200 to then remove them a few weeks later and sell them for a fraction of the original cost. They also make the 4x4 suspension look 10x better.

The roads round here are full of pot holes and speed bumps. This coupled with the fact that components such as drop links are prone to failure, I think those springs are a bad idea... IMO.

I think with your copy of VIDA it would of been the latest SUM for the car

[SexyBoy]

Looks nice that lowered, good advice!

[LeeT5]

My shocks were working as they should though, the front two were brand new and the rears were fine upon inspection when removed. They are there to dampen movement and that's exactly what they were doing... there is a clear difference in spring rate between the original springs and the Eibachs which I personally felt was unnecessary given the car has adjustable damping.

I'm almost certain that the SR/VR Eibachs are also listed for the 2.4D models etc, which don't have the 4C system - a little poor if you ask me - surely the R models require a different spring than any other model without 4C?

I didn't personally have the latest ECU update, but who knows what's been done to the car between '04 and '11. I reset the SUM as was required through VIDA and I felt that the ride was still too harsh. The difference between comfort and sport was minimal in terms of RIDE QUALITY albeit less body roll etc in sport mode. That's the whole point of a SUM recal, to compensate for the fact the cars now sitting 30mm lower. The car was fine before and was poor afterwards. If the car required an update, it would've driven poor before and after.

Although the >>>>SUM UPDATE<<<< may have helped in your instance, it will simply change the way the struts dampen the movement. In my opinion however, the added stiffness came from the SPRING not the STRUT, there was a clear difference after fitting the Eibachs and so surely an update to the SUM wouldn't change much?

It's only my opinion, people can do what they want, I didn't enjoy buying a set of springs that cost almost £200 to then remove them a few weeks later and sell them for a fraction of the original cost. They also make the 4x4 suspension look 10x better.

The roads round here are full of pot holes and speed bumps. This coupled with the fact that components such as drop links are prone to failure, I think those springs are a bad idea... IMO.

Just because your rear shocks were working as they should, doesn't mean they were working 100% as they would have been when they were new. They are no different, at the end of the day, to a normal shock: accept for the electrical part controlling the internal solenoid which restricts flow of oil (basically).

The latest SUM update (version 3 i believe) was to further improve the movement/damping of the shock and prevent the shock from 'topping out' hense you would sometimes hear and feel a slight knock, mainly when in comfort and sometimes in sport. Never in Advanced because there was less travel in the shock. When Volvo updated my SUM last year it completely erradicated the slight knock and vastly improved the ride in terms of the shocks ability to do its job.

The end result, for me, was a car that drove like it was new, handled better than ever and no unexplained noises.

If you didn't have that experience then i question whether you indeed had the latest update, whether your rear shocks were performing as they should and that there may have been something else worn or wrong with the suspension on your car.

Bottom line is that my car is now, i feel, as it should be.

And on that note, i'm off to fit my new Forge Turbo bypass valve :smile:.........

[s_cowen]

How much does the latest SUM upgrade cost?

[Jimmie]

How much does the latest SUM upgrade cost?
Depends on your dealer.

[LeeT5]

How much does the latest SUM upgrade cost?

It was £23 but this included a 39% labour discount.

Basically, providing all goes well its half an hour + software.

Mine wouldn't calibrate at first because the software wouldnt load so it had to spend the night at Volvo so they could connect it to Sweden early morning to get them to reload the latest firmware then download the latest software to the SUM.

Make sure the dealer check your headlamp alighnment at the same time because calibrating the SUM and installing latest software will affect headlamp levels. They should know that anyway.

[Jimmie]

I'll bet AC charge a lot more than £23 +VAT to do this upgrade.
Check before you book your car in.

[LeeT5]

Here's some pictures of my car with the Volvo Alloy belly protector plate fitted, a vital bit of kit if lowering:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_0669.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_0668.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e11/LeeT5/Phase%202%20V70R%20AWD/IMG_0667.jpg

[Jimmie]

It was £23 but this included a 39% labour discount.

Basically, providing all goes well its half an hour + software.

Mine wouldn't calibrate at first because the software wouldnt load so it had to spend the night at Volvo so they could connect it to Sweden early morning to get them to reload the latest firmware then download the latest software to the SUM.

Make sure the dealer check your headlamp alighnment at the same time because calibrating the SUM and installing latest software will affect headlamp levels. They should know that anyway.

Lee;Is that a total price for a can upgrade for software?

[LeeT5]

Lee;Is that a total price for a can upgrade for software?

Yes.

[stephenevans99]

Which eBay supplier did you buy the TPI spacers from?

Cheers,

Steve

[LeeT5]

Which eBay supplier did you buy the TPI spacers from?

Cheers,

Steve

Just search "Volvo 15mm/12mm TPI spacers".
You'll find them.

[stephenevans99]

Thanks.....just wondered if you had a recommendation. I'll probably get them from the seller called 'thenutandboltsshop'.... prices seem right with free p&p and longer wheel bolts for £1 each.

[LeeT5]

Thanks.....just wondered if you had a recommendation. I'll probably get them from the seller called 'thenutandboltsshop'.... prices seem right with free p&p and longer wheel bolts for £1 each.

There the ones. ;)

[Youjutsusha]

Lee with regards to the skidplate (Which I want fitted) Did Volvo say anything about it affecting Manuals? Or is this one suitable for high speed driving with a Manual. (If you search the part number on the interwibble it says that it is not suitable for turbo gasoline engines with manual gearbox, but those only seem to have two NACA ducts. Thinking of getting Volvo to fit the protectors to my R when it next goes in.

[LeeT5]

Lee with regards to the skidplate (Which I want fitted) Did Volvo say anything about it affecting Manuals? Or is this one suitable for high speed driving with a Manual. (If you search the part number on the interwibble it says that it is not suitable for turbo gasoline engines with manual gearbox, but those only seem to have two NACA ducts. Thinking of getting Volvo to fit the protectors to my R when it next goes in.

:welcome:

Basically Volvo recommend it's not fitted to R models only (whether auto or not).
This is because they reckon the R models run hotter and the skid plate will prevent air flow! Nonsense, i say. As you can see from the skid/belly plate i have fitted (genuine volvo one) it has 4 air ducts that direct air flow to the vital components, ie gearbox, transfer box or angle gear. The engine gets enough cool air flow when moving and i for one have not had any 'over heating' issues.
As far as i'm concerned, the belly plate is a worth while investment as it will protect vital engine parts from foreign object damage inc vunerable oil filter.

[Jimmie]

I would not say there knowledge on the subject is nonsense,
The plate will be made specifically for the standard motors only .
The only reason volvo would fit one to an R is if the customer requested it .It would then be up to customer if anything went wrong with any components.
I personally only fit one if i was having to drive up farm type tracks.

[Youjutsusha]

Thanks for the welcome :p

From what it looked like its more sustained high speed driving or AutoBahn type stuff as its a very unique situation in some respects (even though some people drive like that all the time even in the UK) ,

The NACA ducts used I would've thought would be enough to supply air to critical components, and I've already ordered replacement grilles for the front to get some more air into the bay. The only thing that it might stop is air exiting the engine bay that was my thought or maybe Exhaust Manifold Temperatures end up too high (Manifold crack problem/ Turbo crack).

I don't really want to put holes in the bonnet or anything (I don't like the Elevate Grilles). Maybe side vents in the fenders?

I would've thought there would be some aero benefit to having the plate seeing as it smoothes out one of the significantly turbulent regions of the underside of the car.

[LeeT5]

I would not say there knowledge on the subject is nonsense,
The plate will be made specifically for the standard motors only .
The only reason volvo would fit one to an R is if the customer requested it .It would then be up to customer if anything went wrong with any components.
I personally only fit one if i was having to drive up farm type tracks.

I here what your saying but you do get foreighn objects on normal roads and motorways and at 70mph in the dark your lights are not going to illuminate something in the road quick enough for you to swerve. Something you might perseive as small enough to drive over but turns out to be large enough to slice your sump open!! Then its too late.

I know its a one in a thousand chance but at the end of the day it protects your sump and your gearbox. In the last two months i know of two people that had hit objects in the road and wish they hadn't. One of them was an old Mondeo....it promptly wrote the car off because he didn't stop until the engine seized and the other was a bloke in an S4. he cracked his sump but stopped before it was too late.

Choosing not to fit one is a massive risk afaik, especially if your car is lowered.

I think that 99% of the time we only really drive on tarmac roads and not farm tracks, wouldn't you agree?

[Jimmie]

Lee i can be driving in any type of road that is why i have to normally use a proper 4X4.
Iwould fit one to a volvo if it didn't cover the entire belly pan.

[LeeT5]

Iwould fit one to a volvo if it didn't cover the entire belly pan.

What's the point then?

[Harvey]

Still got mine one to fit when I got time.

[LeeT5]

Still got mine one to fit when I got time.

Only 5 bolts mate. Rear one with the spacer is a bit fiddly but takes 5 minutes.

[Harvey]

Only 5 bolts mate. Rear one with the spacer is a bit fiddly but takes 5 minutes.

Yes I know the bolts spacers came in the box I got it for £18 brand new main dealer old stock just could not say to the deal.just one of those jobs that will get done some time.
There is a lot more to it than I thought.

[Youjutsusha]

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/body-parts/panelling/engine-protection-plate/1019014/ (engine-protection-plate 8624664)

Found this last night 8624664 can't really decide whether or not its suitable for S/V70Rs but it looks that way.

[LeeT5]

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/body-parts/panelling/engine-protection-plate/1019014/ (engine-protection-plate 8624664)

Found this last night 8624664 can't really decide whether or not its suitable for S/V70Rs but it looks that way.

I'm sure it will fit ok as the floor pan is the same on any P26. I suppose it's better than nothing but i'd rather have the Alloy one than plastic, for obvious reasons!

[Youjutsusha]

I'm sure it will fit ok as the floor pan is the same on any P26. I suppose it's better than nothing but i'd rather have the Alloy one than plastic, for obvious reasons!

I thought it was alloy >_> ; anyway this one has a few more vents and stuff and is suitable for T5s but not Rs still. I'm thinking of giving it a miss altogether as I'd be worried about exhaust manifolds cracking and etc, etc.

[LeeT5]

I thought it was alloy >_> ; anyway this one has a few more vents and stuff and is suitable for T5s but not Rs still. I'm thinking of giving it a miss altogether as I'd be worried about exhaust manifolds cracking and etc, etc.

You worry to much! I have had mine on for over a year now and my manifold hasn't cracked. Don't quite see the connection regards that anyway. Plastic or alloy, i don't think it really matters. Manifold temps get up to around 600*C anyway so a plastic/alloy belly plate ain't gonna make a jot of difference. Heat rises remember and the belly plate can't get much lower to the floor. If the plastic one has more vents then surely thats better for you?

[Youjutsusha]

You worry to much! I have had mine on for over a year now and my manifold hasn't cracked. Don't quite see the connection regards that anyway. Plastic or alloy, i don't think it really matters. Manifold temps get up to around 600*C anyway so a plastic/alloy belly plate ain't gonna make a jot of difference. Heat rises remember and the belly plate can't get much lower to the floor. If the plastic one has more vents then surely thats better for you?

I'd expect the manifold to normally reach 800C as its Gasoline Exhaust Gas. Tempted to order some exhaust wrap for the Ferrita downpipe I ordered and a Wrap for the turbine housing.

I am worried about the air flow around the engine as, I would expect some more air flow around the engine with an open floor. (Volvo has a really good Wind Tunnel so they must've had some sensible results) That and I intend on going to the Nurburgring for a quick run around the track. (Gonna get the brake vane parts for the front.

[Youjutsusha]

Anyway, I've taken the plunge and bought a set of Eibachs and all new shocks as apparently one of mine was bent. Have ordered rear camber kit and also IPD HD upper spring seats and also the splash guard rather than the thick XC70 alloy one. Replacing all my steering arms too just because it feels crappy and the lower ball joints as I didn't do those when I got the poly bushes done. Got TKi End links for my Ipd Roll bars too.

Lee my question is what increase in bolt length or what bolt length did you order for the spacers. Thinking of going 15mm all round either with the TPi ones or some H&R ones. I know Don has some on Kalmar Union as well, which I was thinking about.

Also are camber bolts needed? ("5.81260K EIBACH Front Camber Bolts")

[LeeT5]

Anyway, I've taken the plunge and bought a set of Eibachs and all new shocks as apparently one of mine was bent. Have ordered rear camber kit and also IPD HD upper spring seats and also the splash guard rather than the thick XC70 alloy one. Replacing all my steering arms too just because it feels crappy and the lower ball joints as I didn't do those when I got the poly bushes done. Got TKi End links for my Ipd Roll bars too.

Lee my question is what increase in bolt length or what bolt length did you order for the spacers. Thinking of going 15mm all round either with the TPi ones or some H&R ones. I know Don has some on Kalmar Union as well, which I was thinking about.

Also are camber bolts needed? ("5.81260K EIBACH Front Camber Bolts")

I just used the supplied extra long bolts that i asked for when i purchased the spacers. They supply them all. Why are you ordering camber bolts? Assuming you have proper 4 wheel alighnment equipment? I had the camber bolts supplied and fitted by Elite, rainham, Essex and the alighnment done at the same time.

[Youjutsusha]

I just used the supplied extra long bolts that i asked for when i purchased the spacers. They supply them all. Why are you ordering camber bolts? Assuming you have proper 4 wheel alighnment equipment? I had the camber bolts supplied and fitted by Elite, rainham, Essex and the alighnment done at the same time.

Have to replace a bunch of stuff so will hobble along to the tire place and get the alignment done then thinking about going with normal bolts vs camber bolts anyway. Nutandboltstore told me they don't have bolts long enough for the spacers.

[LeeT5]

Have to replace a bunch of stuff so will hobble along to the tire place and get the alignment done then thinking about going with normal bolts vs camber bolts anyway. Nutandboltstore told me they don't have bolts long enough for the spacers.

Sorry mate, i can't remember where i got them from.
I swear it was them.

[Youjutsusha]

Lee where did you get the Eibachs. (I got ripped off by one company and will have to reclaim the money through card company) and Carnoisseur said that they can't get them anymore as Eibach have stopped doing the kits.

Tempted to either go with Elevates (but not sure about the quality) or to just get some new standard springs, to which I will need to sell the camber bushings as I don't need them then. Also noticed TME do springs for the Volvo so might get those as Swedish stuff is generally good.

[LeeT5]

Lee where did you get the Eibachs. (I got ripped off by one company and will have to reclaim the money through card company) and Carnoisseur said that they can't get them anymore as Eibach have stopped doing the kits.

Tempted to either go with Elevates (but not sure about the quality) or to just get some new standard springs, to which I will need to sell the camber bushings as I don't need them then. Also noticed TME do springs for the Volvo so might get those as Swedish stuff is generally good.

This is the only place you can get them now mate:

http://www.rtecshop.com/shop/suspension/eibach-suspension/eibach-lowering-springs/eibach-lowering-springs-volvo/v70-00-07/eibach-pro-kit-springs-for-volvo-v-70-s-r-2.4-t-awd-r-2.5-t-awd-2.4-d5-awd-2.5-t-awd-year-03.03.html

The price is spot on. It's what i paid.

[Youjutsusha]

This is the only place you can get them now mate:

http://www.rtecshop.com/shop/suspension/eibach-suspension/eibach-lowering-springs/eibach-lowering-springs-volvo/v70-00-07/eibach-pro-kit-springs-for-volvo-v-70-s-r-2.4-t-awd-r-2.5-t-awd-2.4-d5-awd-2.5-t-awd-year-03.03.html

The price is spot on. It's what i paid.

Thanks Lee but too late XD I ordered TME ones and they look spot on, not fitted yet, still waiting on some parts currently ordering spacers now to get the scrub radius back to normal as it would decrease with lowering and avoid rubbing. Proper excited :D

Also nice car Lee! :d

have been ripped off by haloperformace on the Eibach springs they took my money and closed up shop. Trying to claim the money back through the bank at the moment. Its a pity I think I would've prefered Eibachs as from experience they have really good springs, but the Swedes are good at stuff so I think the TME's should be good at any rate.

[icooney]

Best thing I did was the springs, but I went evolve (as was) highly recommend looks the nuts (see sig)

[PHILKEN]

Lee, could you inform if the shop has another set of Eibach springs for the VR in stock, I sent them an email, but hasn't got an answer yet, maybe because I'm not from the UK?
(many shops don't want to ship to the mainland or even don't answer a question from foreign country's)
I had the Elevate springs(but they are to low, now have the TME springs, but they are to heigh(....)
& the Eibach's are the only ones that have the right Belgian certificate, needed for the belgian MOT :()

[LeeT5]

I have absolutely no idea mate. I live hundreds of miles away from the shop. I don't even know the shop owners or staff. If you've sent them an email then they should reply. They won't answer to me any quicker than you. Just search google shopping, that's what I did.