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T4Rick
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 19:29
Can the sump be shortened in height at all and will the engine cope ok.

Volvostorm
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 19:36
Why would you what you reduce your oil capacity?

There is a dry sump kit for the 5 pot, but, it ain't cheap! :jaw:

T4Rick
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 19:53
Im converting to rwd and i think im gonna run into subframe issues i hope i dont have to chop the sump up.

Volvostorm
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:05
I have seen pictures of people shortening the sumps, on other engines.

As long as the oil pick stays in oil all the time, I can't see why it shouldn't hurt

JUDGENINJA
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:07
Anyone ever built a dry sump?

claymore
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:08
I would think that you'll have to weld some wings on, so that you can keep the capacity.

Volvostorm
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:21
I would think that you'll have to weld some wings on, so that you can keep the capacity.

Good idea, forgot about that

Look like this

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Info_sheets/Oil_systems/2.0L%20Big%20Wing%20Sump%20modification.htm

T4Rick
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:23
If there was less oil capacity in the sump would it damage the engine

claymore
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:27
If there was less oil capacity in the sump would it damage the engine
It's not something I'd do, it's the life blood of the engine.

Volvostorm
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:31
If there was less oil capacity in the sump would it damage the engine

Just a bit! Its not just the engine itself that needs oil, the turbo has to be fed to.

Alan M
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:32
Don't drop the capacity. As above fit some sort of extra capacity. The sump has baffles that will be a nightmare to alter when adding wings so dry sump and accumulator may be the best method.

T4Rick
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 20:44
Don't drop the capacity. As above fit some sort of extra capacity. The sump has baffles that will be a nightmare to alter when adding wings so dry sump and accumulator may be the best method.

Hi Alan dry sumps are expensive lol

endo-t5
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 21:45
Why not put a big oil cooler on as will increase capacity and you could always look at making a dry sump system.

AndysR
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 22:00
Hi Alan dry sumps are expensive lol

So are engines... ;) lol

T4Rick
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 22:13
Why not put a big oil cooler on as will increase capacity and you could always look at making a dry sump system.

That sounds like a very good idea,would i keep it as close to the sump as possible and sort of at the same level as the sump?

zoidberg
Wednesday 22nd February 2012, 23:34
If you wish to 'shorten' it as you put it, then DONT even touch the lower pan. Insteadabout an inch below the mounting face cut it all the way round, you then do it again to the remainder of the sump removing the depth neede and then weld the mateing face bit back on. Thus every thing is the same except overall height.
HOWEVER.................................THAT wont be your biggest problem!! What will be wil be the fact that you will need a sump with a REAR lower drain pan and accompanying filter/pipework. Pies can be made to fit relatively easy and it might be easier to pinch the lot of a rear engined car and do the bit I said about cutting the mounting face but just weld it onto the RWD sump.

T4Rick
Thursday 23rd February 2012, 15:53
Ive not got it sat in yet ive only just removed the t5 engine today.I do think i can keep some of the sump so it will be like an L shape and maybe i put the baffle lower down in to it

jmc
Thursday 23rd February 2012, 17:04
This is something I need to look into. I will be using a 960 sump, and Im fairly sure I'll need to alter the pan to avoid the subframe/ARB.
I was thinking of possibly shortening the pan (front to back) but making it wider to keep the capacity up and maybe also to fit a pressure accumulator (if thats the right thing) just to be on the safe side.

T4Rick
Thursday 23rd February 2012, 21:14
This is something I need to look into. I will be using a 960 sump, and Im fairly sure I'll need to alter the pan to avoid the subframe/ARB.
I was thinking of possibly shortening the pan (front to back) but making it wider to keep the capacity up and maybe also to fit a pressure accumulator (if thats the right thing) just to be on the safe side.

Whats the point in using the 960 sump?you still have to chop the sump about dont you.

claymore
Thursday 23rd February 2012, 21:19
Whats the point in using the 960 sump?you still have to chop the sump about dont you.
The 960 sump already has the 'wings' on it, got to be easyer just to shorten a 960 sump I would have thought.

T4Rick
Friday 24th February 2012, 09:26
The 960 sump already has the 'wings' on it, got to be easyer just to shorten a 960 sump I would have thought.

Hi Colin do you have a picture of a 960 sump mate i carnt picture wings on a sump in my head lol

jmc
Thursday 1st March 2012, 09:00
Whats the point in using the 960 sump?you still have to chop the sump about dont you.


The 960 sump already has the 'wings' on it, got to be easyer just to shorten a 960 sump I would have thought.
The 960 sump (once shortened in length) puts the oil pan at the correct end of the engine for the E30 - the opposite end to the E36.
Whilst I believe the pan does just miss the subframe, the ARB and steering rack are in the way. I dont want to get into moving the rack that might cause steering issues, so altering the pan seems the option to go for. Its only one edge of the pan that needs altering to clear the rack and ARB I think, but whatever I take out of that edge, I'll try to extend on another.
It is possible the 850 sump may fit with less work, but that I cant tell untill the engine is suspened in place.

T4Rick
Thursday 1st March 2012, 16:12
The 960 sump (once shortened in length) puts the oil pan at the correct end of the engine for the E30 - the opposite end to the E36.
Whilst I believe the pan does just miss the subframe, the ARB and steering rack are in the way. I dont want to get into moving the rack that might cause steering issues, so altering the pan seems the option to go for. Its only one edge of the pan that needs altering to clear the rack and ARB I think, but whatever I take out of that edge, I'll try to extend on another.
It is possible the 850 sump may fit with less work, but that I cant tell untill the engine is suspened in place.

I was thinking the same idea about lowering the sub frame alittle. i had a quick nosey last night in the dark and the clearance isnt that far out