abs and tracs light on?

[mhill53]

anyone had the same issue? ive checked fuses but all seem ok?just came on on the way home from work today? any ideas?

[daza-b]

dirty sensor??

[local-looney]

anyone had the same issue? ive checked fuses but all seem ok?just came on on the way home from work today? any ideas?

this was the bain of my life,fixed mine ok...sold the car!!
normally,in volvotech of salisburys words,nearly always the ecu on the abs pump,had mine fixed twice but unit was buggered...try checking the sensors first,but if not they do a fast turn around if your unit needs fixing,about 50 i was charged....

[GreenMachine]

as above dry solder joints on the abs ecu, if your into soldering its not too difficult

[t5steve]

soldered mine myself........took about 2 hours from start to finish..........still working fine

[mhill53]

where abouts is the abs ecu?

[local-looney]

where abouts is the abs ecu?

should be bolted to your abs pump,could check connections,could be dirty

[local-looney]

right hand side,underneath pump....

[mhill53]

just found a "how to" on the net so will give it a go.

Cheers.

[t5steve]

make sure you get the joints hot or they will not solder properly................i heated mine untill i could move the connections in molten solder..........take your time and it will all be straightforward...........keep us posted on your progress

[T4Rick]

Mine turned out to be the ignition barrel lol.When you turn the key in the ignition barrel and start the car does the key flip back or does it stay there.This was my problem the key didnt return but if you turn it back a smidge you will hear something ticking and both lights will go out.Worth a try and will cost you nothing.If it turns out to be your problem the igntion barrel black cap needs replacing or lubing

[Wobbly Dave]

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=244

I can help if you want.

Principal issues are
Damaged reluctor rings - http://www.reluctorrings.com/volvo.php
or dodgy ECU.

[woz]

make sure you get the joints hot or they will not solder properly................i heated mine untill i could move the connections in molten solder..........take your time and it will all be straightforward...........keep us posted on your progress

When you get the PCb top cover off, theres the joints - but what do you do about the gel insulation material all over it?

It must be there to stopcorrosion and humidity related offences, but you cant spray it with the usual Maplins pcb lacquer after soldering - or can you?
Can you get the gel stuff anywhere?

Cheers
Woz

[woz]

I would just add that to get the top cover off you really need to slice around the side of it with a stanley or craft blade. Do this carefully, firmly and deeply to get as much of it released as possible before trying to lift the lid which is set into a groove about 5-6mm deep filled with sealant.

Obviously you can only get to the outside edge of the groove, the inside will still be bonded. I wonder if a hairdryer might soften it??

I managed to §§§§§§ it up by simply levering upwards with a couple of flat bladed screwdrivers - and damaged several of the connectors inside in the process.

The stanley blade was then needed to get the remains of the plastic lip out of the groove - how I wish I had done that first!!

See pic of lid showing remainds of lip, case after the groove was cleaned outa nd the damaged connectors. The two power connectors on the left appear to have dry joints. A 20x mag (about £2 on Ebay) are really useful for inspection purposes.

You can also see the green gunky insulation gel I was on about. Still not sure what to do about that.

W

[t5steve]

i put a thin smear of silicone sealant over the resoldered joints............then sealed the lid back on with more sealant...................still working fine

[shrekblackR]

i put a thin smear of silicone sealant over the resoldered joints............then sealed the lid back on with more sealant...................still working fine

lol guess what your doing next week pal lol

[theflyingbrick]

Mine turned out to be the ignition barrel lol.When you turn the key in the ignition barrel and start the car does the key flip back or does it stay there.This was my problem the key didnt return but if you turn it back a smidge you will hear something ticking and both lights will go out.Worth a try and will cost you nothing.If it turns out to be your problem the igntion barrel black cap needs replacing or lubing

excactly whats wrong with mine at the mo you have to turn the key back with just the weight of your finger and the light goes out!!

[t5steve]

lol guess what your doing next week pal lol
should learn to keep my mouth shut really...................no problem mate

[Wobbly Dave]

I can get the lid of in about 5 - 10 minutes - depending on how much glue is around it. Mistake made by most is trying to lever the lid out like woz did.

I cut the 4 spring washers off.
I use a dremel & incise the whole lid off a the level of the inner lip, using a thin grinding wheel.

You then prize the lid off at the 4 post. this then leaves the lid with the outer lip from the box still attached. This is plenty good enough to form a lip, when re-gluing.

Only skill is not going to deep with the grinder. After 200 units I have it down.

[woz]

I can get the lid of in about 5 - 10 minutes - depending on how much glue is around it. Mistake made by most is trying to lever the lid out like woz did.

I cut the 4 spring washers off.
I use a dremel & incise the whole lid off a the level of the inner lip, using a thin grinding wheel.

You then prize the lid off at the 4 post. this then leaves the lid with the outer lip from the box still attached. This is plenty good enough to form a lip, when re-gluing.

Only skill is not going to deep with the grinder. After 200 units I have it down.

Thanks mate - just a week too late :>)

Got it all back together. Lights on at first, then off (this happened for the MOT too:>) then first brakingand judder and lights back on. Going in for a code read next week.

I think the correct order of events should be:
Code read
Fix any sensors/wiring
Get "how to" off interweb http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=46827 and read Wobblys comments - a man of experience.
Then have a go - need some good specs and a good soldering iron, fine tip and steady hand.
And a tube of silicon goop for resealingl.

Went to Maplin this eve to see what they got - special silicon goop just like at buildcentre but 10x the price. Lots of good soldering irons, tips, contact protector goop etc etc. Lucky to get out with any munny left:>))

Thanks all for the help. current status - first couple of brakes during a journey trigger the ABS and it goes into fault mode (lights on) and disabled until end of journey then resets while parked.

Next update next week.