My proposed bass box!

[I want a T5]

Came across this pic and this will be my intent for my bass in the V70.

Probably go for one each side with a single 12" in each one but will see how much bass I can get out of one 12 first.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/173315/1996-volvo-850/page-2#

This would allow me to still have access to the dicky seats and spare wheel.

If I can get enough bass from one, then the amp will live in a similar tailored box the other side.

[AndysR]

I like that idea, quite a few car manufacturers are now fitting subs into the boot of their cars and in that location..
Be interesting to see your progress with that install :)

[Peanut1]

And then you can do mine bruv!!!

[M-R-P]

Bro in law's A4 estate has a sub in the side panel in the back. Not bad for a former serious crime organisation car. Got the cutout for the strongbox in the boot too ;)

[JimmyBurnWorld]

Regarding one vs two speakers. You pays your money.

You can quite easily nip down to hellfraulds and pick up a couple of 'phat' 12" cones, yo, and make a decent amount of noise for about £150. To achieve this you will need an enclosure with a huge internal volume, and the bass may not be very well controlled (loose, boomy and mono-tonal).

Now, spend a bit more money on a good quality 12" driver and all of a sudden due to the better TS parameters/ cone construction/ magnet assembly, your ideal box size is smaller, the bass is tighter and has a better range.

I learnt this one at an early age messing around with car audio. My mate passed his test first, so being the tecchy one, I helped him build a sub box incorporating a 15" sub he picked up for £125. It sounded awesome. Then I did some research, and when I passed my test and got my first car, I spent £200 on a 10" JL Audio sub, built a box a quarter of the size and blew him away!

The way I choose sub-woofer drivers is as follows:

Does the manufacturer publish Thiele-Small parameters for the driver? (You need these to calculate the right size box). If not, I move on.

If they do, appreciating that all the parameters have a bearing, what is the Qts value? less than 0.35 is easy for a quality driver. 0.20 is not unheard of. Lower, the better.



One more thing: The amplifier is part of the package. You could spend £500 on a speaker, then cheap out on the amplifier and get muddy bass. Not only does the amplifier have to make the speaker move, it has to be able to stop it once it is moving. Good quality amplifiers have good dampening factors.

[d2k]

im adding a SVC 10'' sub in my S60 boot.

premium sound sys is pretty good but certainly lacking low end, midbass is pretty good but id say anything below 60hz is non existent, dont need much more 300w should suffice.

its going into a custom 0.9cuft ported box built for this sub (Zapco Iforce)


i wouldn't mount it to one side though, i like things symmetrical... lol, center of the boot.

as stated above dont cheap out on your driver choice & box config... a 10'' in a well resonating box will sound louder than 2 cheap 12'' drivers stuck in the first box they find.

[I want a T5]

Regarding one vs two speakers. You pays your money.

The way I choose sub-woofer drivers is as follows:

Does the manufacturer publish Thiele-Small parameters for the driver? (You need these to calculate the right size box). If not, I move on.

If they do, appreciating that all the parameters have a bearing, what is the Qts value? less than 0.35 is easy for a quality driver. 0.20 is not unheard of. Lower, the better.

One more thing: The amplifier is part of the package. You could spend £500 on a speaker, then cheap out on the amplifier and get muddy bass. Not only does the amplifier have to make the speaker move, it has to be able to stop it once it is moving. Good quality amplifiers have good dampening factors.

I absolutely agree Jimmy! I have several rules of thumb when choosing any audio stuff but the primary on is that a well installed piece of equipement that may be middle priced, will be better than a badly installed high priced piece. This applies to mounting of the mids in the doors being solid and well damped, correct aiming of the tweeters and of course, a properly calculated and well built sub box.

All of my equipement is premium gear, collected from various bargain deals on Ebay. If I added up what I would have to spend to get the gear new, it would amount to several thousand but being canny has allowed me to have one of the best head units, some of the best amps and some of the best speakers. All of these will be installed to the best of my ability using the best materials and high quality leads and cables.

As far as the bass goes though which was the main point of the post, I will be using a pair of Hertz HX300 12" subs in a correct volume, sealed box. These will be powered in a 2 Ohm configuration from a DLS amp, either an A7 or an A3. Both of these are real power and quality. I expect the bass to be very well controlled with the ability to drop and pound yet still be supremely musical.

Watch this space.......