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wright_t5
Monday 20th December 2004, 12:48
:thewave:

Hi,

Thinking of changing the transmission oil,

Anyone have any recommendations?, and where to get it. :wink:

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 21st December 2004, 02:03
Dextron III - You will need about £50 worth - in order to do the full flush.

If you need help on how to, then just call me.

07801 347 993

wright_t5
Tuesday 21st December 2004, 07:42
I found out what type I needed, what I was looking for was any recommendation for supplier, Mobil, Castrol, Comma, etc, just wondering if anyone out there had any first hand knowledge, experience, or something, that was my real question... or maybe just buy some locally with that spec... I have found in the past that buying expensive doesn't always get you the best in class, just makes the supplier more of a profit.... :shifty: over someone more realistic with thier prices :wink:

Thanks.. :thewave:

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 22nd December 2004, 01:09
I have changed my own when the box went - in a vain attempt to save it.

Think I used comma. The box holds about 7 - 10 litres. To change it you can either just drain the box via the sump plug on the side of the gear box(underneath) - but you will not get all of it out.
To do it properly you need to remove the battery tray first and lean the battery on the side of the chasis
Jack the near side of the car
Undo the gearbox sump plug - it is on the inside edge of the gearbox.
Empty as much out of the sump as you can - be careful as it might be hot - especially if you have just been to the shops to get the new ATF!!
Use loads of rags and a large bucket/bowl.
Do up the sump again.
Undo the return feed from the cooler - there is a nut than attaches the hydraulic pipe to the top side of the box. The return feed is the top of the two hose you can see just near the air intake.
Sit the end of the pipe in the bottom of a 2 litre drinks bottle - with the top cut off or some similar receptical - note there isnt a lot of space
Crank to the engine pumping about 1.5 litres out
Pour new stuff in via a funnel into the dipstick pipe
Repeat until the stuff coming out is the same colour as the stuff going in.
Do up the pipes and put enough ATF in to mark properly against the dipstick

Changing ATF is quite slow. It doesn't go in that quick so be patient.

wright_t5
Tuesday 4th January 2005, 14:37
Hi,

Thanks for the advise, I was gonna do it over Christmas but got this dam cold, flu thing and didn't get round to it, although I did find time to put me new wheels on, :thewave: very nice they look too... Oh, and replaced the rear discs, having to replace the handbrake shoes as they fell off :eek:

Anyway, why do you have to take the battery tray out? when changing the ATF, is this so you can get to the union for the oil return? , the book tells you to take out the battery!! is this necessary?

Thanks for the help.... :wink:

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 5th January 2005, 02:03
you cannot easily access the return feed junction on top side of the transmission without removing the tray - though it is not impossible

wright_t5
Wednesday 5th January 2005, 08:00
Ahh, Wondered if that was it, having read the book it tells you to do these things, but doesn't tell you why... I always like to be pre-armed before getting into the job..... sounds like it takes an age to do... but necessary I think, my oil is a kinda brownish colour and because I give so much grief "most" of the time I reckon it would benefit... plus drag racing was never on the spec sheet sooooo :thewave:

What's all this talk about drilling air-boxes? thought they breathed ok stock!!

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 6th January 2005, 13:59
Drilled airbox? ask Justin - makes you car sound like an angry lion

ATF change - worth doing IMHO