Remap Issue

[MattM]

So had my car remapped today which some may know if you read my other thread. Quick drive from the garage to the office after remap showed promising results, much more power/torque.

I've now completed the 50 mile drive home across A/B roads and there seems to be an issue which occurs. Power comes on fine, then hesitates/backs off, then back on again... all in all it makes it quite a jerky climb up the revs. It doesn't happen all the time, I'd say 70% of the time.

Any ideas what this could be? Something that is occurring due to the increased power/torque, or something that was there but is now more pronounced?

I don't know a lot about cars, but I feel like it may be boost/pressure related.

I've emailed this to race-tune (pwcars) so will probably take my car to them on Tuesday next week for some diagnosis. Just thought I'd put it on here to see if anyone can shed some light.

Thanks.

[claymore]

sounds like mild boost cut to me.

[MattM]

What causes boost cut normally? I had the BCS changed for a new one with the remap.

[M-R-P]

I've hered that remaps can show up things like dodgy plugs, leads, coil and maf sensor. Did you change or replace any of these before the remap?

[claymore]

have you got a boost gauge? what's it boosting to?

[MattM]

I've hered that remaps can show up things like dodgy plugs, leads, coil and maf sensor. Did you change or replace any of these before the remap?

Just had the plugs changed and a service, none of the otheres.

No boost gauge unfortunately.

[claymore]

Just had the plugs changed and a service, none of the otheres.

No boost gauge unfortunately.

Waw, brave man

[MattM]

I asked here before about boost, no one seemed to know how much mine should be putting out at stock. Would PWCars be able to read my boost with a laptop or something?

[T5frankie]

what you got an 850? if so where does it boost to on the white of the standard gauge?

[claymore]

what you got an 850? if so where does it boost to on the white of the standard gauge?

looks like an 05 s60 Frank

[T5frankie]

did pwcars remap your car?

[M-R-P]

Oh, a P2, throttle module probably needs a clean. Might be worth changing vac pipes too. Standard, car should be 9 to 11 psi.

[MattM]

did pwcars remap your car?

They did yes. I think the best bet is to take it to them and go out for a drive then get them to fix it :)
I knew something like this would happen but hey as long as it gets fixed.

[T5frankie]

They did yes. I think the best bet is to take it to them and go out for a drive then get them to fix it :)
I knew something like this would happen but hey as long as it gets fixed.

i take it they know volvos then?

[MattM]

Yea they are a volvo specailist and have tuned 5000 volvos. just went for another spin and its very pronouced, even with the throttle 70% down.

[T5frankie]

Yea they are a volvo specailist and have tuned 5000 volvos. just went for another spin and its very pronouced, even with the throttle 70% down.

have they? i've never heard of them, don't sound like they did a good job to me

[Yosser]

Yea they are a volvo specailist and have tuned 5000 volvos.

Sure.

I doubt there are 5000 tuned Volvos in the UK, let alone all done by them.

[MattM]

Just quoting what they told me :)
I think I'll get a boost gauge fitted (somehow, have no idea what I'm doing) to keep an eye on things in the future. Until then I think I'll have to rely on pwcars and their stellar reputation to fix things :)
They do offer a non-satisfaction 14 day refund so I think it's in their interest to get things to where they should be.

Recommend me a boost gauge please :)

[t5_monkey]

Could be high intake temps? Although you shouldn't get them this time of year.

Check for boost leaks, possibly MAF or FPS (fuel pressure sensor - not sure if that can crop on the S60) issues ?

[p fandango]

i assume its Phil Whitaker Cars, they are quite well known & can't recall anything being bad said about them. Take it back to them & see what they say

[LeeT5]

I've now completed the 50 mile drive home across A/B roads and there seems to be an issue which occurs. Power comes on fine, then hesitates/backs off, then back on again... all in all it makes it quite a jerky climb up the revs. It doesn't happen all the time, I'd say 70% of the time.

Any ideas what this could be? Something that is occurring due to the increased power/torque, or something that was there but is now more pronounced?

I don't know a lot about cars, but I feel like it may be boost/pressure related.



It's a well known fact (anyone thats remapped will know) that after remapping a V70, or indeed any car, that it will show other symptoms, more pronounced due to the extra power. This is normal and a good thing really. My car did exactly the same thing and i bet countless others have too. Whats happened is certain components on your car were starting to get tired and not work properly and on the oe map you wouldn't have noticed.
The only way to resolve your issues so your not second guessing is to have the codes read by a proper code reader. One that can read ALL ecu's on the car with Volvo '3 letter 4 number' DTC's, not 'P' codes. For example...ECM 8589 rather than P1202. P codes can be very vague and differ in meaning from manufacturer to manufacturer.
The symptoms you describe sound like the MAF sensor giving up. My car had exactly the same symptoms. Very intermittant and not nice when it suddenly looses power. There are two possible outcomes for the symptoms you describe: MAF and FPS (fuel pressure sensor). If it was a vac leak then the car would drive crap all the time.
My MAf went within weeks of the remap and the FPS closely followed about 3 months later! Now, my car has never been better and its an absolute joy to drive.

get codes read then come back to us....

My moneys on the MAF :wink:

[Wobbly Dave]

Do you have an android phone?

[MattM]

Thanks Lee, I have a feeling it's something simple like a sensor. Going to take the car to my local specialist to have the codes read at 3pm.

I do have an android phone, are you going to suggest getting a bluetooth OBDII connector to pull some data off with torque pro? I think it's probably a good idea too and will look into it today but probably won't be a while until it comes from china.

[p fandango]

I do have an android phone, are you going to suggest getting a bluetooth OBDII connector to pull some data off with torque pro? I think it's probably a good idea too and will look into it today.
the code will only be generic & having used it to pull the codes off my bro's Festa were totally wrong, it displayed codes for an auto box when its a manual lol

[MattM]

Yea I'm pretty sure I'd only trust a VIDA to pull the proper codes.

[p fandango]

Yea I'm pretty sure I'd only trust a VIDA to pull the proper codes.
sorry thought you were going to use Torque to pull the codes, actually read all your post now lol

[MattM]

Just been thinking, if the MAF is dirty/not reading properly, will this even show up as a code? I'm tempted to take it out and clean it, looks pretty simple.

[wegal]

possibly over boosting, maybe trying to hold too much boost and then you get boost cut. Does it do it under hard accelleration ? or when you are trying to drive at a constant speed ?

[MattM]

hard acceleration, not necessarily full acceleration. Doesn't happen every time, maybe 70-80% of the time.

I've had a new Boost Pressure Sensor and Boost Control Solenoid in the past few weeks.

Also over boosting would put the car into limp mode?

[Wobbly Dave]

Cleaning the MAF can lead to more issues. What fuel are you running?

[MattM]

vpower.

[Wobbly Dave]

How many tank fulls have run through since you changed brand?

[MattM]

5 :)

[Wobbly Dave]

Bang goes that theory - quite literally. I thought perhaps you were getting detonation from lower octance fuel.

Was the actuator pressure checked? Have you moved it tighter to elevate boost?

[MattM]

No actuator pressure hasn't been checked, hasn't been messed with either.

[Wobbly Dave]

Hate to say this but there are a lot of things it might be - but without thorough investigation this thread is just hot air. My advice would be to ring PWC (they're a good bunch) & get it booked in. Ultimately you want the map to work properly & it isn't. So call them & take it from there - like you said in your 1st post.

i know that may be a little frustrating but tuning isn't always plain sailing.

[LeeT5]

Yea I'm pretty sure I'd only trust a VIDA to pull the proper codes.

I have a BSR code reader and it read ALL the ecus on the vehicle and displays them they same way VIDA does. There may be other people on here with one nearer to you, so you could borrow it. only takes a second. You could borrow mine if you wanna drive to Maidstone, However you should know by now what it is....so don't keep us in suspense any longer. Tenner says MAF :D

[Wobbly Dave]

I have a BSR code reader and it read ALL the ecus on the vehicle and displays them they same way VIDA does. There may be other people on here with one nearer to you, so you could borrow it. only takes a second. You could borrow mine if you wanna drive to Maidstone, However you should know by now what it is....so don't keep us in suspense any longer. Tenner says MAF :D
i fear that if you start fiddling without letting PWC have first look you may have issues taking it back.

[LeeT5]

Just been thinking, if the MAF is dirty/not reading properly, will this even show up as a code? I'm tempted to take it out and clean it, looks pretty simple.

Yes it will and no it won't always throw a EML unless its gone into limp mode. Ive never known a Volvo to go into limp mode thou unless its and Auto.

I wouldn't advise cleaning, as Wobbly says, it will cause other issues. If its duff then its time to replace. They don't generally get that dirty as they heat up to remove deposits.

[Wobbly Dave]

You could just replace the MAF & see if it helps. But going too far without seeing PWC first could lead to unwanted repercussions.

[LeeT5]

Just been thinking, if the MAF is dirty/not reading properly, will this even show up as a code? I'm tempted to take it out and clean it, looks pretty simple.

Yes it will and no it won't always throw a EML unless its gone into limp mode. Ive never known a Volvo to go into limp mode thou unless its and Auto.

I wouldn't advise cleaning, as Wobbly says, it will cause other issues. If its duff then its time to replace. They don't generally get that dirty as they heat up to remove deposits.

[MattM]

Spoke to Jerry and PWC, taking the car in on Tuesday. He thinks it may be the new boost control solenoid, he's seen this happen on S60Rs before when changing the BCS. Anyway, they will do a full investigation.

[MattM]

Car has been in and had the map tweaked. Hesitation was better this morning on the drive in so it was hard for PWC to see the issue. What they did notice was some over fueling, so the fueling and boost has been adjusted on the map. Drive from the garage to the office shows good results, the drive home tonight will be a better test.

[glock19]

As mentioned earlier, have a good boost gauge fitted. The s60 should take 1.5 bars on standard internals. If it's overboosting, you'll know from the gauge. Also the ME7 upgrade should have progressive boost raised accroding to the rpm.

From the first post, the problems seems to be associated with the spark coils. I've seen many remapped cars having these issues due to the vintage of the coils. It'll show up with the extra power the engine is delivering.

[MattM]

Any recommendations for a gauage and also instructions on how to fit it?

[Wobbly Dave]

Do you have a smartphone (preferably andriod)??

[MattM]

Yes.

[Wobbly Dave]

Great news - Just download the TORQUE application from Android Market. There are a number of BlueTooth ODBII adaptors that you can buy. The cheapest is 10 quid off ebay (see the bottom of the list)

http://torque-bhp.com/wiki/Bluetooth_Adapters

I have bought the cheapest one first - the refresh rate/PID rate is not fantastic. I then bought the 100 quid ODBLinik at the top of the list - which is much better & includes software and USB connection facitilities (so you can plug direct into your PC for total accuracy). There is some inherent latency in the BT connection itself.

The TORQUE app is free & very comprehensive. It includes all the telemetry you will ever need plus the ability to read DTCs. You can data log & download to Excel as a CSV file. It is a fantastic app. The plug in "track recorde" allows you to do real time video with overlaid telemetry. There is no need then to plumb in ugly pod mounted gauges (I don't like them). The only downside is I have not seen particulary accurate BHP, torque or 1/4 mile results. However as you are reading direct from the car the issue of calibration (is the gauge accurate) is entirely removed.

I know from past experience that the usual 57mm boost gauges - usually about 25 quid on ebay are hit & miss.

You can check out the track recorder footage here -

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=38687

The only issue I have found is that the rendered video on the phone does not display the telemetry accurately as when viewing the video on the phone. However you can still watch the video back on the phone & that problem is removed. Just be careful what you post - we don't want you to indite yourself.

PS - if you don't fancy doing all of this (or just want Proof of concept prior to purchase) & you want to come to Telford - then I will happily use my phone & adaptor & record some logs. It takes roughly 2 hours to get here. I am in Holland all this week & return Saturday lunchtime - so Sunday would be fine with me.

[MattM]

Think I may pick up the £10 from ebay to start with so I can log some figures rather than view them real time. I can then post up data here for input.

[Wobbly Dave]

data logger poling is once a second. However if you push the data into Excel & graph it over time - you can even out any spikes.

I found that you get the most accurate figures from watching the play back (using the track recorder) - as you cannot play back the real time values (only log them).

You can also change the info you want to data log in the setup. Including stuff like timing advance, throttle position will help to see what's going on.

[Dream3r]

Torque estimates boost on petrol P2's, hence it can't be relied on for boost.

My thoughts are firstly get you wastegate opening pressure checked, it should crack about 0.4 bar and be fully open at 1bar.

Be very careful with boost on these cars as anything over 1.3bar has been known to split blocks, check vaccum lines for leaks also.

My experience is that with a new TCV and/or a map that car will need to learn the boost curve, recommendations are to let the car warm, then drive for five minutes producing no boost, then gradually increase boost whilst driving, this will allow the ME7 to learn the wastegate duty cycle in order for it to hit its target boost and not overshoot.

The fuel cut from overboost will literally stop the car like it's hit a brick wall, I thinks it is around 1.55 bar, which is the limit of the fitted map sensor.

It sounds a little like misfires to me, coils, injectors and other electrical gremlins can cause this. It also could be an air leak, throwing off MAF readings, check your new TCV i s connected properly with new Volvo green clips on each hose.

Boostgauge wise I have a prosport on which costs around 60 quid and have it fitted into a cf werks door pod. This accurately reads boost as I have checked it with VIDA.

Moving forward, if you know someone with access to VIDA this will help you eliminate the misfire question as you can log them per cylinder (at least on 05+ cars) as you drive.

[MattM]

How's this gauge look?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROSPORT-SMOKED-SUPER-WHITE-BOOST-GAUGE-KIT-BAR-/110786076787?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19cb5d6073

Easy enough to fit by an idiot? :)

Got any pics of your install?

Having a look at CF Werks the mounts are only available in 60mm for RHD - is that what you have?

Can't see a 60mm boost gauge on their website in bar only psi - http://prosportgauges.com/

How about something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D1-Spec-60mm-JDM-Black-Face-2Bar-Boost-Gauge-/370547123361?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item56465464a1

[MattM]

Think I'm going to get a refund on the remap, tomorrow is the last day I can get the no-quibble refund.

Whatever map they have put on, the difference isn't that great. What I plan to do is get the map refunded/removed then get a boost gauge fitted + get the car on a dyno to see what output I get. I should have done this before the map to be honest. Once I'm happy with how the car is running stock I will think about getting a map again. I can then get it back on the same dyno and compare results.

I want to do this right and I think I may have jumped too quickly at the chance for more power without considering all things. Currently my car is running in an unknown state of tune which I'm not happy with.

Let me know what you think.

[graemewelch]

good idea. give the car a good service. get the codes read just incase there are any unknown issues. do any mods you want doing first ie exhaust, sports cat, ic. check tyres, brakes and suspension are all good. at the minute mines standard again and it def dosnt feel slow. my car already had a rica remap when i bought and ive since changed the map and found adam at rica to be exelent. when your finally ready for a remap then thats wear id go. id be happy to take you out in mine to see what you rekon.

[MattM]

It's recently had a full service so should be good in that regard. I'll give PWCars a call tomorrow to sort out a refund - I bet they won't be happy.

When it comes to remap time again in the future I think MTE or HLM Tunning will be the way for me.

[graemewelch]

cant comment on either of them as havnt dealt with either.

[Wobbly Dave]

It's recently had a full service so should be good in that regard. I'll give PWCars a call tomorrow to sort out a refund - I bet they won't be happy.

When it comes to remap time again in the future I think MTE or HLM Tunning will be the way for me.
HLM is a good option - but I am a bit biased when it comes to who tunes up Betsy

[Wobbly Dave]

Think I'm going to get a refund on the remap, tomorrow is the last day I can get the no-quibble refund.

Whatever map they have put on, the difference isn't that great. What I plan to do is get the map refunded/removed then get a boost gauge fitted + get the car on a dyno to see what output I get. I should have done this before the map to be honest. Once I'm happy with how the car is running stock I will think about getting a map again. I can then get it back on the same dyno and compare results.

I want to do this right and I think I may have jumped too quickly at the chance for more power without considering all things. Currently my car is running in an unknown state of tune which I'm not happy with.

Let me know what you think.
No need to find a boost gauge - anyway they is UGLY IMHO. Hamish will dyno the car b4 & after - and has a very good boost gauge - & a pretty good idea when it comes to tuning the 2.4.

I know that Hamish would not let you take the car home unless he felt it was working spot on. PWC as nice as they are just doesn't have the infrastructure to test the car fully before handing it back.

[Wobbly Dave]

Torque estimates boost on petrol P2's, hence it can't be relied on for boost.

My thoughts are firstly get you wastegate opening pressure checked, it should crack about 0.4 bar and be fully open at 1bar.

Be very careful with boost on these cars as anything over 1.3bar has been known to split blocks, check vaccum lines for leaks also.

My experience is that with a new TCV and/or a map that car will need to learn the boost curve, recommendations are to let the car warm, then drive for five minutes producing no boost, then gradually increase boost whilst driving, this will allow the ME7 to learn the wastegate duty cycle in order for it to hit its target boost and not overshoot.

The fuel cut from overboost will literally stop the car like it's hit a brick wall, I thinks it is around 1.55 bar, which is the limit of the fitted map sensor.

It sounds a little like misfires to me, coils, injectors and other electrical gremlins can cause this. It also could be an air leak, throwing off MAF readings, check your new TCV i s connected properly with new Volvo green clips on each hose.

Boostgauge wise I have a prosport on which costs around 60 quid and have it fitted into a cf werks door pod. This accurately reads boost as I have checked it with VIDA.

Moving forward, if you know someone with access to VIDA this will help you eliminate the misfire question as you can log them per cylinder (at least on 05+ cars) as you drive.
that will depend if you choose to read boost as a feature from the MAF sensor or MAP sensor within the torque app surely?

[jardon]

On our cars torque will display estimated boost irrespective of what you select. Piemm is working on a list of extended pids but for now it ignores map sensor. Not true of all cars but applies to quite q few including obd2 volvos. Adjusting VE in settings allows you to fine tune the estimate but you would need a boost gauge or known map reading with which to compare. Torque overestimates my boost irrespective of settings.

[MattM]

Spoke to PWCars, it's booked in for Tuesday to return the car to stock and get a refund. They have been very patient and accommodating and I'm sure I'll be using their services again in the future.

Once it's back to stock the plan is to get a boost gauge installed, see how that looks and get it on a dyno. If I'm happy with how it performs then I will look at getting a downpipe + remap next year.

[Wobbly Dave]

I had wondered - given that the boost figures received via Torque seem a bit OTT on Betsy - & I ordered a new MAP sensor just to make sure. It made a nominal difference.

[Dream3r]

How's this gauge look?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROSPORT-SMOKED-SUPER-WHITE-BOOST-GAUGE-KIT-BAR-/110786076787?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19cb5d6073

Easy enough to fit by an idiot? :)

Got any pics of your install?

Having a look at CF Werks the mounts are only available in 60mm for RHD - is that what you have?

Can't see a 60mm boost gauge on their website in bar only psi - http://prosportgauges.com/

How about something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D1-Spec-60mm-JDM-Black-Face-2Bar-Boost-Gauge-/370547123361?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item56465464a1

Yes I went 60mm, MRG Volvo fitted mine,yes a main dealer fitted my boost gauge

http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/14444-dream3rs-r-project/page__view__findpost__p__190405

[MattM]

Got a link to the gauge you got? Did you also order the pod from cf werks?

[MattM]

Thinking this http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_225&products_id=6760

with this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROSPORT-SMOKED-SUPER-WHITE-BOOST-GAUGE-KIT-BAR-/110786076787?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19cb5d6073

[MattM]

Would an electronic gauge be easier to fit/position in the cabin? I can't imagine it would be easy to put a mechanical one on top of the dash.

[M-R-P]

I would imagine, in this age of wireless technology, there'd be a kit (probably an expensive one) that you plumb in to your engine bay and a wireless pod that you just stick/screw wherever you like?

[p fandango]

Would an electronic gauge be easier to fit/position in the cabin? I can't imagine it would be easy to put a mechanical one on top of the dash.
with a mechanical gauge you've only got the thin vac line & 2/3wires for the lighting so not that hard to fit anywhere. I'd of thought you'd want an electrical gauge if you want a door pod because of feeding the vac line thru the hinge. Electric gauges just use a sender unit you plumb in, then 1 signal wire to the guage (the gauge does need power & earth as well)

[MattM]

I'm thinking a wire running from the engine bay to the gauge will be easier to tuck/squeeze into the cabin than a small tube which can't be squashed.


with a mechanical gauge you've only got the thin vac line & 2/3wires for the lighting so not that hard to fit anywhere. I'd of thought you'd want an electrical gauge if you want a door pod because of feeding the vac line thru the hinge. Electric gauges just use a sender unit you plumb in, then 1 signal wire to the guage (the gauge does need power & earth as well)

I guess I need to decide where to put the gauge. I am thinking on top of the dash by the A Pillar. Not sure how you'd feed the tube to it.

[p fandango]

I'm thinking a wire running from the engine bay to the gauge will be easier to tuck/squeeze into the cabin than a small tube which can't be squashed.
theirs normally a couple of spare grommets put into the firewall you can use, i know where they are on 850's but haven't looked on a P2

[MattM]

PWCars are saying they can increase the boost some more and measure the boost out on the road (assume using VIDA?). If I'm then not happy I can then have it put back to stock. I've said this is fine, asked how much boost they are going to increase to and also if they can carry out any other health checks. Great service as expected.

[LeeT5]

The tubing can be routed through the door easily enough. A friend of mine has done this and he has no problems. He drilled out the unused holes in the multiplug in the door shut and fed the tubing through that. Simples.
doing mine in the spring and fitting my IPD R guage and door pod.

[MattM]

OK update on this. PWCars probably think I'm crazy because after thinking on it some more I've changed my mind and just want a refund and back to stock. The main reason for this is I think there are some good tuners out there who I think would provide a better map. So once I'm back to stock I'm going down 1 of 2 routes.

1. Go to see Hamish - he seems like he knows his stuff and because he has access to a Dyno this will highlight any issues before the map and after.
2. Get down to local Dyno and get a benchmark on how my car runs at stock, then pop to see Don for an MTE map. Then back to the same dyno to compare results.

I think I'm inclined to go with HLM, the Autotech map is supposed to be very good.

[Nathlm]

OK update on this. PWCars probably think I'm crazy because after thinking on it some more I've changed my mind and just want a refund and back to stock. The main reason for this is I think there are some good tuners out there who I think would provide a better map. So once I'm back to stock I'm going down 1 of 2 routes.

1. Go to see Hamish - he seems like he knows his stuff and because he has access to a Dyno this will highlight any issues before the map and after.
2. Get down to local Dyno and get a benchmark on how my car runs at stock, then pop to see Don for an MTE map. Then back to the same dyno to compare results.

I think I'm inclined to go with HLM, the Autotech map is supposed to be very good.

And our Autotech remap is now only £300 with the dyno and a diagnostic check ! :biggrin:

[MattM]

Excellent :)
Once I've got my refund on Tuesday I'll be in touch Hamish.

[T5frankie]

still waiting for my autotech hamish

[Nathlm]

still waiting for my autotech hamish

LOL still waiting for you to book it in x

[glock19]

PWCars are saying they can increase the boost some more and measure the boost out on the road (assume using VIDA?). If I'm then not happy I can then have it put back to stock. I've said this is fine, asked how much boost they are going to increase to and also if they can carry out any other health checks. Great service as expected.

The above may be in your history book, but raising boost is not always the solution. If fact your initial problem was "hitting a brick wall" when the car was boosting. As in your latter posts, it'll be right to put the car back to standard form and go from there. I've dealt with Hamish and Adam way back (Hamish might not even have an idea of who I am :D), so from their many years of expereince, I believe either one of them can be of service to you.

[MattM]

Once I've got my car sorted on Tuesday I'll be booking HLM in for January.

[MattM]

At PWCars now getting the map removed. Again great service.

Now to plan the trip to see hamish.

[MattM]

Booked in with HLM for 28th December :)

[Nathlm]

Ahh Matt didn't realise it was you lol nice speaking to you x

[MattM]

Ahh Matt didn't realise it was you lol nice speaking to you x

Like wise.

[MattM]

Went to see Hamish today for my remap, very happy with the results!

[p fandango]

Went to see Hamish today for my remap, very happy with the results!
nice one, we need numbers ;) lol

[MattM]

Numbers are just numbers, it's how it drives that matters :)

But for those interested.

http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae4/mmccann722/IMG_0002.png
http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae4/mmccann722/2011-12-28124752.png

[Wobbly Dave]

That is a very solid torque curve, especially for just a remap. 321 hp trips off the tongue nicely down the pub. You can even do it with the 3-2-1 fingers. ;) - al a Ted Rogers

[topcat]

Hi Folks.

Does any body know if this p/roblem was ever cured? As I have exactly the same problem on my ex plod V70 T5.
Apparently mine has a fault code that indicates higher than normal fuel pressure.
Any pointers or help would be very welcome

Thanks in advance.

[LeeT5]

Fuel pressure sensor.

[LeeT5]

Hi Folks.

Does any body know if this p/roblem was ever cured? As I have exactly the same problem on my ex plod V70 T5.
Apparently mine has a fault code that indicates higher than normal fuel pressure.
Any pointers or help would be very welcome

Thanks in advance.

Fuel pressure sensor.

[d2k]

Just been thinking, if the MAF is dirty/not reading properly, will this even show up as a code? I'm tempted to take it out and clean it, looks pretty simple.

mine never did, my MAF started failing the other day & there were no stored codes...... i cleaned the contacts & gave it a few whacks with the driver & all was well again.


though it never gave me the problems your seeing, it was giving me a seriously erratic idle, & sometimes stalling when id pull up, but while accelerating all was well.??????