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t5owner
Wednesday 17th August 2005, 16:34
Having just removed my abs ecu on my 1997 S70 due to it failing its mot because the tracs/abs light stayed on during the test(I`m assuming its the ECU fault as on the thread)

I came across a slight difference in the removal procedure
Note the following for easier access on the S70 (possibly the same on V70`s aswell)


1) You will have to remove the entire airbox assembly including maf sensor unit still attached (dont forget to undo the jubilee clip and remove intake pipe for turbo and the front intake pipe and unclip the hose support unit on side of airbox)

2) Unclip the additional fuse box mounted on the side of the suspension mounting area and lay it to one side you do not have to disconnect it from the loom (Where your strut brace would go if you have one)

3) You will need a 6E torx socket to remove the four bolts 2 as in the picture on the thread and 2 further bolts at the rear of the unit one in each corner you`ll probably have to feel for these as you can`t see them

4) Once you`ve removed the bolts pull the ecu down and off the rods that protrude from bottom of the abs modulator (The big thing that you don`t have to remove)

5) At this stage the wiring is still attached to the ECU Prise open the clip securing the multi plug cover don`t force it as it can snap

6) Slide out the 2 strange looking hook like clips keep pulling on these until you`ve got about 2 inches of clip showing then the whole multiplug assembly should just lift off the ECU

And hey presto jobs a goodun and you should have in your hands the ABS ECU :haha:

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 17th August 2005, 16:49
Just a couple of thoughts - sorry not trying to pick at it but I would revise #5/#6 to say that you need to feel around the bottom of the multiplug (looking from the wingside view) for a small clip. Push this in and rotate the hood of the multiplug around its hinge (see photo in link below).

You then need to remove the power cord from the pump (push the clips on the plug together)

I would do the screws after the plugs, too.

In addition you may also wish to remove fuse #14 to protect the circuit before removal.
I would also secure the multiplug in a plastic bag to stop dirt getting in.

Then you can send it to me and I will repair the unit (see link below) - LOL!

http://www.volvot5.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=224

Ps if you dont have the E5 torx socket - a 4mm hex socket will suffice.

t5owner
Wednesday 17th August 2005, 17:04
Quite right i`m just a novice although i did disco the battery
I`ve sent it to VT today as i couldn`t get a reply from you via pm a couple of weeks ago

At least i can put it back right and i wouldn`t of even attempted it without the info on this thread so credit to you wobbly :remybussi

Cheers

stuart

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 17th August 2005, 22:27
I do apologise - If I have inadvertently missed your pm. I am pretty good usually. My intent was not to belittle your thread - oops! - just trying to help???!

As soon as the unit arrives I will post it back to you fixed.

Here is the script I send to peeps that need it.

You will need a 4 or 4.5mm socket or a small female torx socket (E5) and a 1/4 inch driver/wrench. If you don’t have the tools to remove it - you might need to take it somewhere to have it removed.

The ABS ECU unit is on the near side close to the suspension turret - aft of the airbox. Removal of the air box will give you better access but it is not entirely necessary. The unit is screwed into the ABS pump (silver square thing with brake lines coming out of it).

To remove the unit, unclip the multiplug cover and rotate the cover on its hinge. (Standing by the NSF wheel, the hinge is at the top of the plug cover) - The plug will then lift off. Put the cable and plug to one side, making sure you don't put it near anything that will get hot. Undo the black power cable - the plug has pinch clips which you squeeze to release (wiggle it a bit and it should come free). Stow the plugs to one side, where they will not catch or short on anything. If in doubt remove the fuse (I think it is fuse #14). You may also wish to seal the end of the multiplug in cling film or a small plastic bag. Just ensure that it can’t flop around or foul up in anything.

Undo the 4 screws with a 4.5mm socket or female torx socket. They are quite small and point towards the floor. There is one screw roughly on each corner. Feel around the edge of the unit and you will find them. It can be a bit fiddly (especially the bottom most ones) with the lack of room which is where taking off the air box comes in - but only if you want.

The unit will then slide of the ABS pump. I have a picture on my Volvo site to help you.

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/ABS_ECU.jpg (http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/ABS_ECU.jpg)

You may drive the car while the ABS unit is out. Please ensure that the appropriate fuse is removed and you do so at your own risk as the speedo will not work and I don’t want you getting into bother on my account - LOL!

t5owner
Wednesday 17th August 2005, 23:30
Wobbly

Many thanks it was not my intention to tread on anyones toes by adding my account to the abs thread no probs about the pm
I appologise if i have caused any offence as i said i`m fairly new to this t5 malarky and i`m just finding my feet

So i`ll look forward to receiving the unit back i sent it this after by special del so should be there thursday

And thanks for the above as i will follow the destructions when i put it back in
Shan`t be driving the car as it failed on the abs/tracs light fault :slap: so its not MOTEED

Once again

thanks

stuart

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 17th August 2005, 23:39
I personally didnt think you could fail your MOT on ABS/TRACS warning lights - after all it doesnt stop the brakes from working, plus they are not standard on all cars??

I changed my first paragraph - I was a bit over zealous. I hope that all can understand the fine art that is ABS ECU removal - LOL

I shall await the arrival of the unit tomorrow! Cheers geez!

t5owner
Wednesday 17th August 2005, 23:47
I did ask when he gave me the fail sheet and its down on the front and back and in the MOT destruction book that i saw says something like
"Abs should be fully working with no warning lights given when ignition in position II and with engine started check twice incase abs pump did not initialize first time"

Although i was chattin to jeleebaby and app hers went through with same fault and passed
Guess it depend wether it goes out on the second go or perhaps i just had a chappie doin as the book says
Can`t really complain as thats all it failed on

So hey ho

thedrill
Thursday 18th August 2005, 11:57
The ABS light should light when the ignition is on and should go out when the car is started, there is a list on the wall of M.O.T stations to tell you of the correct procedure for this.. as some cars are different (Landrovers have to get to 5mph before the light goes out) I have seen cars come in for an M.O.T test with the A.B.S light on and fail the M.O.T test only to come back for Retest with it wired in to the oil light circuit!! This will pass the M.O.T as all you are testing is the light on the dash is working properly.

izzysnan
Thursday 18th August 2005, 12:39
Hi guys,
I was worried that ours might fail it's MOT when the ABS light stayed on, so I put a packet of Nurofen just in front of the light ( was going to use a pack of chewing gum but thought the tester might pinch one & spot the light) - anyway it worked & he didn't notice the light was on!
That was before wobbly fixed ours too Lovely to drive round without that light on.
I had a right job getting the correct size Torx socket and the other Dave mentioned would not work on ours as someone had messed up the screw head, but if anyone else has a problem getting a socket I dont mind lending them mine - just let me know & I'll stick it in the post.
Cheers
Frank