Volvo phase 2 v70 r and s60 r buyers guide and tuning advice

[t5 pete]

As many people will have noticed these are coming down in price these days and are getting more affordable.
I have been thinking about getting one but havent had any thing to do with them so dont know what there weak points are and how tuneable they are.
The items i have heared that are problematic are
angle gear collars
Auto boxes
cracking of liners

I would be very greatfull if some one more knowledge able than me on phase 2 R's would share there knowledge on them and wouldnt mind writing a buyers guide and info on tuning.

Thank you

[Tomcat]

Ditto, sounds like a plan.

[rikcougar]

Interesting idea

Would be relevant to the phase 2 C70 as well ?

[t5 pete]

i doubt it

[volvokid]

Come on people, I was hoping to see this thread grow!!!!

[M-R-P]

Ok, what I know...
Propper tuning can't be done without a remap.
Hub/driveshaft bolts come loose (XC90 bolts recommended)
PCV is as bad, if not worse for blocking BUT there's an easy fix - if the nipple on the intake is clean, there's a banjo bolt on the inlet manifold that blocks and that's it. no new catch tank etc.
DIM problems - go for a post 2004 model to be safe.
A cone filter makes it sound nice.
Heavy front end so polybush wishbones and uprated shocks are a good idea.
Not the same aggressive kind of throttle response that you get from P1s but the power is there and goes on forever.
More comfy than a p1
better fuel economy than a P1.

This is based on my knowledge of the P2 V70 T5 and P1 V70 2.5T.
Hope this is of some use.

[Al115]

I'l write it:


S60R Buyer's Guide

Don't. It'll break in new and expensive ways that only Volvo can fix.

Done.

[volvokid]

Not the same aggressive kind of throttle response that you get from P1s but the power is there and goes on forever.
This is based on my knowledge of the P2 V70 T5 and P1 V70 2.5T.


TBH the R's are a tottaly diffrent car compared to the T5's and the older R's the throttle response is far more aggresive than any other Volvo and TBH its sometimes to aggresive

[M-R-P]

I'l write it:


S60R Buyer's Guide

Don't. It'll break in new and expensive ways that only Volvo can fix.

Done.

Bwaaaaaahahahaha ha ha hahahahahahaha hahahahahahaha! nice one dude!
FWD is the way forward (just not the way round bends quickly) LOL

[Santa]

great cars.....but as I once read if you couldn't afford to run a high performance car when it was new you probably can't afford to run it used.

Suspension can also have its issues, fuel regulator, Haldex controller, stupid exhaust bracket, angle gear, spline, heater in the seat, wheel bearings..............probably some other things I haven't mentioned..........but who cares :-)

Tuning, like any modern car you need to ensure its correctly mapped to support the hardware you've installed, as for tuning its still a T5 engine, some have replaced the 2.5 with the 2.4.

[volvokid]

If your into racing and thrashing your car all the time, I wouldnt recomend one, I think things could get expensive quite fast. Parts break same with any other car if there pushed all the time.

[spencem875]

I'l write it:


S60R Buyer's Guide

Don't. It'll break in new and expensive ways that only Volvo can fix.

Done.

True but sometimes its sooooo much fun sex wee leaks out...

[Santa]

True but sometimes its sooooo much fun sex wee leaks out...

That hasn't happened to me tbh lol

[Santa]

If your into racing and thrashing your car all the time, I wouldnt recomend one, I think things could get expensive quite fast. Parts break same with any other car if there pushed all the time.

Its the harsh launching that does it................so no drag racing if you dont want expensive bills. (They only bog down anyway).

[spencem875]

That hasn't happened to me tbh lol

Your not doing it right then :p

[Santa]

Your not doing it right then :p

Think we need a 3rd opinion incase you're doing it wrong........but it feels so right............lol

[volvokid]

I wet my pants but for all the wrong reasons in my dads S60R, I was being an utter ****.

[LeeT5]

Interesting idea

Would be relevant to the phase 2 C70 as well ?

Why would it be?? A C70 does not have the same Suspension, Engine, Turbo, Haldex AWD system, 4CCC....Can't see how it would be relevant?

[LeeT5]

Ok, what I know...
Propper tuning can't be done without a remap.
Hub/driveshaft bolts come loose (XC90 bolts recommended)
PCV is as bad, if not worse for blocking BUT there's an easy fix - if the nipple on the intake is clean, there's a banjo bolt on the inlet manifold that blocks and that's it. no new catch tank etc.
DIM problems - go for a post 2004 model to be safe.
A cone filter makes it sound nice.
Heavy front end so polybush wishbones and uprated shocks are a good idea.
Not the same aggressive kind of throttle response that you get from P1s but the power is there and goes on forever.
More comfy than a p1
better fuel economy than a P1.

This is based on my knowledge of the P2 V70 T5 and P1 V70 2.5T.
Hope this is of some use.

Not meaning to pick a fight but i totally disagree with half of all of the above. I have owned a P1 V70R awd and now my P2 V70R. Spent hundreds on both. Owned my P1 for over 3 years and had my P2 for nearly 2.

To elaberate:

Propper tuning can't be done without a remap.correct
Hub/driveshaft bolts come loose (XC90 bolts recommended)Correct
PCV is as bad, if not worse for blocking BUT there's an easy fix - if the nipple on the intake is clean, there's a banjo bolt on the inlet manifold that blocks and that's it. no new catch tank etc.Not true - you still need to replace ALL the hoses on the PCV inc the oil trap
DIM problems - go for a post 2004 model to be safe.Not a common fault and does not affect R models. The DIM is different to standard V70/S60 models
A cone filter makes it sound nice.True
Heavy front end so polybush wishbones and uprated shocks are a good idea.polybush - yes, uprate shocks - Definate NO. Absolutely no need unless you use car on a race track on a regular basis. If you do away with the shocks then you loose the 4CCC...then what's the point in owning a P2 R?
Not the same aggressive kind of throttle response that you get from P1s but the power is there and goes on forever.Your car must have something wrong with it then? Throttle response is massively improved over the P1 even when not in Advanced. If you have response problems then check your MAF and ETM (P1 only for ETM issues)
More comfy than a p1Completely disagree. Looks wise, maybe, but defo not more comfy ride. P2 S60R/V70R ride is alot more harsh than a P1.
better fuel economy than a P1. Only when remapped. However, i never noticed any difference and both my cars had a BSR stage 2 remap. Both average about 22mpg and will easily do 37mpg on long motorway cruising at 70-75mph.

As for power...well IMH it would be unfair to compare one against the other. AWD system is completely different, more mechanical than electrical in the P1s case. As for the P2 Rs...you gain more cubic capacity, A MASSIVE KKK24 Turbo, ME7.01 over ME7, lightened internals, racing sump, TWO fuel pumps, TWO Turbo intercoolers, VVT on both intake AND exhaust. In 'Advanced sport' a whole plethera of electronics improve the handling and throttle response. It would be totally unfair to compare one from the other. They are, AFAIC, completely different in every way...and i haven't even mentioned the Yaw and squat sensors, accelerometers, rebound control and a whole host of other computer wizardry that makes the P2 R the car it is and whilst the P1 R is a great car it shouldn't be compared to nor expected to perform aswell as or better than a P2 R.

When all problems are fixed, suspension knocks and rattles cured, No MAF or Fuel pressure probs or vac leaks the P2 V70R/S60R are incredibly agile cars. I would never expect my P1 V70R to do what my P2 V70R can do! I chuck it into corners in the wet and never let up on the throttle and it just doesn't let go. My P1 would have twitched and been unnerving even thou having spent thousands doing it up and getting absolutely all major and minor problems rectified. She was a great car but never a contender for the later P2 Rs.

If anyone begs to differ then i'm all ears!

[volvokid]

Where do you find all this info lee, is it all on VOC???

[LeeT5]

Bwaaaaaahahahaha ha ha hahahahahahaha hahahahahahaha! nice one dude!
FWD is the way forward (just not the way round bends quickly) LOL

....Exept in the wet and the snow and ice when frankly, fwd is just plain embarrassing! :hilarious

[LeeT5]

Its the harsh launching that does it................so no drag racing if you dont want expensive bills. (They only bog down anyway).

You gotta press the magic button 5 times...;)

[LeeT5]

Where do you find all this info lee, is it all on VOC???

No mate, from experience and Volvo literature. :)

I am not a member of VOC. Bunch of pipe smoking, slipper wearing, woolen jumper toffs.
No offence intended.

[volvokid]

You gotta press the magic button 5 times...;)

Havnt tried it yet, can u feel a diffrence?

[LeeT5]

Havnt tried it yet, can u feel a diffrence?

Hell yeah!!! Press once and TC is turned off (all other safety features remain on). Press it 5 times with a 1 second interval between presses and you should get the message 'DSTC Disabled'. Press 'Advanced sport'...
:yikes::B_steerin:biggrin::rally_dri:eclipsee_

Holy mother of God....it will have you puckered up i guarantee.

DO NOT do this in the wet. You WILL crash. (You've been warned).

[volvokid]

Will have to try it, I have read about it. Havnt even booted the car with the traction off, tried it in my dads S60 and tbh i had no hope in spinning the wheels lol

[LeeT5]

It's not about spinning the wheels fella. Even with the DSTC and tracs disabled you will really struggle to spin the wheels. The Haldex still works as normal. It just prevents the electrics controlling the car up to about 30mph, you can really feel it holding back when you give it the big'un. the car just feels...'Free-er', if you get what i mean?

Word of warning thou... With the DSTC fully disabled, it also prevents the clever electrics from preventing the back end to come out on a bend. It literally will behave like a naughty school girl and you will be chanting the word 'Bitch' when you pushing it because it will behave differently. I advise you only play like this on private ground thats nice and flat and with no obstacles to hit. I hardly ever fully disable but quite often partially disable when i wanna play with the Cupra and saxo boys.

[volvokid]

Gonna have a few experiments with the car then, looking forward to it. I wont be throwing it into the corners though.
Do you use advanced mode much? I find you have to be very cautions if using it , you have to know the roads are quite smooth or I think you could find yourself in a park :(

[Al115]

Where do you find all this info lee, is it all on VOC???

That's the funniest thing I've heard all week :D

[Jimmie]

That's the funniest thing I've heard all week :D

I thought you were a closet poster on voc .:kiss:

[rikcougar]

Interesting idea

Would be relevant to the phase 2 C70 as well ?


i doubt it

Surely any engine mods would be applicable to the phase 2 C70 ?

[wegal]

Isnt the engine on these prone to cracked blocks or liners ? The T5 engine is a bit stronger I think.

Does the DSTC trick work on the T5 as well ? Mine has the 4c Chassis, so if i press that button 5 times I can turn it all off ?

Damn that sounds like fun :-)

[Al115]

I thought you were a closet poster on voc .:kiss:

I was until recently - to be fair, there are some decent and knowledgeable people on VOC too. Let's leave that one there! :)

[Santa]

You gotta press the magic button 5 times...;)

eeerrrrr yeah....if I didn't do that I wouldn't even get off the line :rolleyes2

[Pauld]

So, why doesn't that work on mine!

pressed it 5 times and no change, what am I doing wrong?

[LeeT5]

Surely any engine mods would be applicable to the phase 2 C70 ?

...Not when the title of this thread is 'Phase 2 V70R/S60R....'

A C70 P2 is not an R. It is of course a P2 V70/S60, in which case there is tons of info that will help you else where on the forum. Please can we stick to the topic!

Putting an R badge on the back of your C70 does not count either. :o

[LeeT5]

So, why doesn't that work on mine!

pressed it 5 times and no change, what am I doing wrong?

Press it once puts out the light on the switch and the DIM will display 'DSTC function reduced'.:cool:

Press it 5 times with a 1 second pause between each press will display 'DSTC function Disabled'.:wow:

If nothing happens then your not doing it right. Took me a while before i worked it out. The drivers hand book instuction isn't all that clear.

you can also disable the DSTC and TRACS in any mode on the 4C.

[LeeT5]

Isnt the engine on these prone to cracked blocks or liners ? The T5 engine is a bit stronger I think.

Does the DSTC trick work on the T5 as well ? Mine has the 4c Chassis, so if i press that button 5 times I can turn it all off ?

Damn that sounds like fun :-)

Wegal, your T5 doesn't have the 4C. Only the S60R / V70R have it.

You most probably have the DSTC button on the dash and another button saying 'Sport'. It's not the same thing. Your car will not have Yaw and Squat sensors, nor will it have Accelerometers fitted front and rear of the car. The suspension may have wires going to it but it will be for two settings only. Normal and Sport. ie, soft/hard.

I will dig out my literature tomorrow and tell you exactly how it works, but on the Rs the system is completely different. Nick named 'SKYHOOK'..

3 buttons - Comfort/Sport/Advanced. The whole Continuosly Controlled Chassis Concept (Four C) uses some 20+ sensors scattered all over the car including the Steering angle sensor, Throttle position sensor, Rear level sensors, Yaw sensors, Squat sensors, Accelerometers, etc etc.

[LeeT5]

...Just for you, Wegal!

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=38836

:rolling_e

[Santa]

Did i mention wheel bearings as well.....yeah been through a few of those.


Word of warning thou... With the DSTC fully disabled, it also prevents the clever electrics from preventing the back end to come out on a bend.

Remember the first time I did this in the wet pulling out a junction.......not my finest hour though no one was hurt......(and from the outside it probably looked really cool).

[LeeT5]

If anyone knows junc 5 of the M20.....well, the one and only time i have really pushed my car to the limits in the wet and i mean sopping wet, was one evening when my mate had recently bought a VXR vectra and wanted to see whether my car was worth a :hidesbehi.....race.

So i said one evening..."lets go out for a quick spin now". he replied..."but its raining!". To which i replied..."And?"

As we approached junc 5 from the A20 i pressed 'Advanced', accelerated from the roundabout in 3rd and floored it. Now my mate is not one to be scared in a fast car, he's ragged many a fiesta, scooby, M3 and even his old 1973 Trans Am 7.3L V8 in his time, so he knows what cars are capable of doing.

I was quietly confident that the outcome would be fine so i pressed on towards the left hand sweeping bend headed London bound. Remember it's pissing down! I glanced at the speedo and i was doing about 65mph. Normally in the dry that corner feels too fast at 50mph so i was absolutely stunned as the car just went round the corner like it was on a scalextric track. The TRACS light flickered briefly but she held nicely. My mate was gripping the roof handle and the seat bolster and all i heard him say was...."Fu c kin Heeelllllll!!!!!!!!!!" Then he laughed and said that if he'd done that in his VXR it would have let go before 60 and hit the armco.

Enough said. :D

[LeeT5]

This should help Pete....

To dispell any myths, as ppl have said, its NOT the angle gear but the seal that is the cause of the angle gear failing. If it doesn't leak and is not wet on the bottom then you will be just fine. Just make sure you get under the car at every opportunity (inc tyre replacement) as garages don't always know what to look for on these cars.

My bevel box was noted as leaking by MRG Volvo at 96k and then it lost awd at 101k. So MRG replaced the Bevel box because the splines were stripped. The lack of oil caused the bevel gears to prematurely wear and therefore a new box was inevitable. The Angle gear was £756 (luckily i never had to foot the bill as it was the previous owner).

These Haldex awds are not like the 'Classic' '99-00' cars with the viscous coupling. Therefore you no longer need to worry about the 2mm tread depth rule on your tyres. ie, the difference between any tyre tread depth must not exceed 2mm and they must be the same depth on the same axle. So relax!!

Headlights can be a little problematic in that the Bi-xenon ECU (behind the light unit) fails. When this happens the light will not work and the only option is a new headlamp complete. They are about £780 each. However, it is not a common fault.

Timing belt change is every 96k. This will include a new water pump (whether its leaking or not).

Shock absorbers. These cost £435 each from the dealer front and rear. They are no different to any other shock absorber (being oil filled and not gas) and therefore wear just like any shock absorber. If anyone tells you they are ok because they aren't leaking - their an idiot!! FACT: just because it isn't leaking doesn't mean its ok. I garantee you will be replacing them at around the 90-100k mark even if they are dry. The front wear more than the rear unless your loading car up heavy all the time. I took my car to HLM in Bromsgrove earlier this year and Hamish replaced ALL 4 shocks with oe Monroe shocks (same as the dealer fit) inc SUM (Suspension module) recalibration for £1147 all in. The dealer wanted over £1700 just for the shocks, let alone to fit.
What an amazing difference and absolutely no need to waste any money fitting after market shocks. Just make sure when you take your car to the dealer (soon) that you have the latest SUM software installed. This, i garantee you, sorts out all the knocking and banging symptoms that earlier R owners complained about.
Cost: £300 MAX. Volvo had problems uploading the latest software to my car and it was kept overnight due to time difference (Uk and Sweden) so they could try again the next day, early doors. It finally uploaded on the third attempt hense the high labour charge. Still cheaper than a new SUM!! The software costs about £73.

Steering Temporary or intermitant loss of power steering, including heavy steering at slow speeds. The steering control module. Lives under the drivers footwell lower dash. A PITA to get to but worth it. They are common failures. Mine went last year. Put up with it for about 3 weeks. No P/S on these cars is not fun!

The common things that fail on these cars are:
MAF sensor £300
Air Quality sensor £162
Fuel pressure sensor £328
Angle gear £756 + fitting (if you don't check your oil seals)
Rear anti roll bar links (around 100k) £29 each.
Steering control relay £85
Rear wiper arms seize if not used frequently. (Can be repaired without replacing motor). tailgate trim repair kit and wiper arm seals needed.
Centre Console cupholder lid hinge - £85 (complete unit only)

Uncommon failures:
Bi xenon headlights ECU £780
Dashboard instrument cluster £1000 (ouch)
Propshaft bearings (CV) grease dry's up and you get slight vibration and sometimes 'Tinkling' noises when on full lock. New prop is £700 - Follow this link... (Fix was on my '99 V70R but applies to V70R/S60R 2003>)
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21654&highlight=propshaft

One thing to check before ANYONE condems your awd is to check the plug connections on your rear Haldex ecu. They can easily come adrift and will mean your awd will not work. Make sure the rubber boots are fitted correctly on the wiring harness and plugs, else water will get in and shorts out your ecu. Mine were adrift, refitted and secured with small cable ties.

Having had my R for nearly two years and knowing what i know, if i were you i would do the following:

1) 100% check of everything that moves and check ALL seals and driveline.
2) 4 wheel alignment inc new tyres if needed.
3) Headlamp alignment - Dealer only (there is a wrong and right way to do it on these cars).
4) Latest software for ALL modules on the car - Dealer only.
5) Turn off day runners - Software - dealer only and will save your bulbs! Phillips D2R bulbs are £100 from Volvo!
6) Replace lower transmission torque bush (the small one) with Poly. They are weak as hell and ALWAYS tear out after small miles. £20 and a 15 minute job with basic tools. Will improve gear changes and slightly increase engine 5 pot warble. Gorgeous!
7) Have your exhaust manifold bolts retightened - I bet money on them being loose!! Makes a big difference to engine sound
8) Replace center hub bolts with XC90 type - Torque to 50Nm - They come loose if they are NOT the XC90 Type and will quickly knacker your CV joints. Trust me, i've been there and i know others that have had same problem. CVs are £65 each.
9) Fit a genuine Volvo Aluminium under belly tray - a bargain at £128! Could save you £1000s if you hit something in the road, inc speed bumps (the ones on bus routes) Also has cooling ducts to direct cold air to the rear of the engine and gearbox.
10) Stage '0' tune. Search here all all will be revealed. Well worth it and a must before you start spending lots on replacing failed components.
11) Ask dealer to turn 'ON' your after-blow function on your climate control. It will majorly extend the life of your condensor and Evap unit. £30 max. Can only be turned on by VIDA.

Top Tips

1) Treat and nurish the leather now! Don't wait for it to get worse and crack.
2) Only use genuine plugs. They come as a pack of five and will last 50k.
3) Have your codes read. Make a note of them all. You need a code reader that can read ALL the cars ecus, inc ECC, SUM. You will most likely have a few that won't throw the EML unless they are fuel related. Note them and erase the cars DTCs. Then recheck after two weeks or 100 miles. Any new codes logged will relate to faulty components. These will most likely be MAF, AQS.
4) Remove the U-shaped bracket under the car in the center. It will constantly ground out. Replace with special flat washers and bolts supplied by Volvo. It is an actual mod that Volvo charge 30 minutes for.
5) Have air con regassed. It will probably be low (if not recently charged). Make sure you use Climate control at least once every week for 30 minutes continuous use. This will ensure seals don't perish and the gas then leaks. (mine is ice cold within about 5 seconds!)

[Justin]

I've owned 2 S60R's and both were pre 2004 models. (03 and 53 plates)

I agree with just about everything thats been said, but will say this.
It will go wrong, it will be expensive and sometimes Volvo wont be able to fix it!!!

I loved my 2, even though the last one blew an angle gear through a leaky seal and later on its turbo. Cost me a small fortune.
A decent remap gains 30 ish hp and totally transforms the car.
4C chassis is good.

Just one thing to add, how are any of you driving with traction control on?
The first thing (and i mean as soon as the engine fires) i do is switch it off!!!
On the R's it was useless, dangerous and ridiculous. Pulling away from a junction in the wet was suicide with it on, especially in rush hour traffic. Just switch it off, wheres your sense of adventure :)

[LeeT5]

A decent remap gains 30 ish hp and totally transforms the car.
4C chassis is good.

Just one thing to add, how are any of you driving with traction control on?
The first thing (and i mean as soon as the engine fires) i do is switch it off!!!
On the R's it was useless, dangerous and ridiculous. Pulling away from a junction in the wet was suicide with it on, especially in rush hour traffic. Just switch it off, wheres your sense of adventure :)

My remap gained me 54 HP and 98Nm Torque. Obviously thats not real time as i have not dyno'd the car, however BSR didn't just make those figures up so if they say 54 hp then it's 54hp.

Regards the TC Justin, i manage to pull away just fine from junctions, even in rush hour traffic! Were not all on a mission all the time and it's not always a race off the line. I turn the TC off when i think i will need to, other than that it stays on cos you never know whats round the next corner!! Turning it off when the going gets wet IMH is just plain dangerous and i don't fancy wrapping my R round the next tree. ;)

[LiamT4]

My remap gained me 54 HP and 98Nm Torque. Obviously thats not real time as i have not dyno'd the car, however BSR didn't just make those figures up so if they say 54 hp then it's 54hp.

Regards the TC Justin, i manage to pull away just fine from junctions, even in rush hour traffic! Were not all on a mission all the time and it's not always a race off the line. I turn the TC off when i think i will need to, other than that it stays on cos you never know whats round the next corner!! Turning it off when the going gets wet IMH is just plain dangerous and i don't fancy wrapping my R round the next tree. ;)

Thats strange, i seem to drive my s70r (which has virtually no traction control) fine in the rain, maybe you need to slow down;)

[Justin]

I did say 30 ish hp, i was gauging my 2 on the rica software i had on them.
AWD is a doddle in any weather, i have 420hp from my audi and the first thing i do is switch the ESP off!!!

You get to see so much more through the side windows that way :)

[LeeT5]

Thats strange, i seem to drive my s70r (which has virtually no traction control) fine in the rain, maybe you need to slow down;)

Not sure what u mean...I don't drive fast all the time. Infact hardly ever. Especially from the line. I mostly leave it on and as i said, don't have probs pulling away.

[LiamT4]

Not sure what u mean...I don't drive fast all the time. Infact hardly ever. Especially from the line. I mostly leave it on and as i said, don't have probs pulling away.

Thats what i mean, if your driving to the conditions you shouldn't need your TC, only when your getting a move on :D

[Jimmie]

Lee why did you not just buy an X5 petrol a lot more bang and traction.LOL

[Erik The Viking]

Cheers Guy's

I'm SOLD - S60R it is - Only just bought my T5 a month ago ! - gonna have to sell it :frown:

[t5 pete]

lee the write up is brilliant just what we need thank you very much

[spencem875]

Good write up, my S60R so far:

MAF sensor
Turbo
Centre console drink cover (not replaced yet)

[Jimmie]

I must have a good one as none applies yet

[volvokid]

I must have a good one as none applies yet

Yeah and how longs that you've had it 4 years is it?

[LeeT5]

Lee why did you not just buy an X5 petrol a lot more bang and traction.LOL

No thanks. They are crap and not very good off road either! Please don't tell me there not, ive worked on them enough times to know.

[Jimmie]

No thanks. They are crap and not very good off road either! Please don't tell me there not, ive worked on them enough times to know.

Is that why BMW are still making them but can you still buy a new R answer NO why?

[Jimmie]

Yeah and how longs that you've had it 4 years is it?

+ years

[Nick0]

My experience has been;
new CD changer £350 (common fault make sure it works)
cruise control switch £30
front shock - used Monroe shock - they make them for Volvo -for £165 plus £140 fitting
torque mount polybush £15

Top nice motor, I don't race it but it flies when you want it to!

[LeeT5]

My experience has been;
new CD changer £350 (common fault make sure it works)
cruise control switch £30
front shock - used Monroe shock - they make them for Volvo -for £165 plus £140 fitting
torque mount polybush £15

Top nice motor, I don't race it but it flies when you want it to!

cruise control switch...Do you mean the Clutch pedal witch or the actual cruise switch on the left stalk?

HLM will do them for £199 each + fitting. That's £1400 installed including top hats on the front. :smile:

[STEVO RRR]

Cheers Guy's

I'm SOLD - S60R it is - Only just bought my T5 a month ago ! - gonna have to sell it :frown:

Allow me to comment.I`ve owned my R for nearly 3 years.
The ownership experience can only be described as a rollercoaster.I`ve had the fuel pumps fail,angle gear seals fail,clutch and DMF replaced,headlight condensation issues,sticky steering(coupling had seized)among other things but I have to say this year the car has been brilliant.
I`ve got from Aberdeen to London on ONE tank averaging nearly 40 MPG so they can be practical.The AWD in the snow is brilliant,tyre wear minimal,great brakes,brilliant engine(mine has been remapped to 340 bhp),massively comfortable,very very rare and the build quality is very impressive.The ride can be jiggly and they`re not the best cruisers(get a Mondeo ST220 for that-absolutely awesome on the motorway)the switchgear can only be described as a mess with its layout but they are great great cars when everythings working.This will be my one and only volvo and its gone from being a massive massive PITA to being the best car I`ve ever owned.
Erik,I will be selling mine early next year for around 5k.Do a forum search for `Colour coded S60R` and you`ll see my car.Everythings the same apart from a 3 inch cat back SS Longlife exhaust that pops and bangs like a racing car at speed and burbles like a Corvette at idle.The 4.5 inch oval pipe sets off the rear perfectly.4 new tyres,Brembo pads and discs just fitted on the fronts,new plugs,number plates,headlight bulbs,updated engine mount and rear lights,new locking fuel cap,wiper blades,cruise control sensor,front mudflaps,K and N air filter etc.etc.all fitted in the last 14 months.
To sum up,a great and addictive car.Fast,comfortable,well-equipped,practical,
family car with the ability to bite you hard in the pocket.

[LeeT5]

I`ve got from Aberdeen to London on ONE tank averaging nearly 40 MPG so they can be practical.The AWD in the snow is brilliant,tyre wear minimal,great brakes,brilliant engine(mine has been remapped to 340 bhp),massively comfortable,very very rare and the build quality is very impressive.

To sum up,a great and addictive car.Fast,comfortable,well-equipped,practical,
family car with the ability to bite you hard in the pocket.

Doesn't matter what car you own, you cannot expect them to breakdown now and again. The comments above some them up perfectly.

I personally would never go back to a T5 and they are legends!