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View Full Version : RIP kit... Ghetto style!



cherry1809
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 17:07
Yip, Got bored again so got the hacksaw out. I basically swapped the intercooler top hose and the throttle body elbow over. The rest is cut and shut. Doesn't look pretty but it works. The idle control valve is now Plumbed into where it was before but at the top of the intercooler. Not ideal but it seems happy.
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11762&stc=1&d=1320771474
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11763&stc=1&d=1320771474
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11764&stc=1&d=1320771474
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11765&stc=1&d=1320771474
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11766&stc=1&d=1320771474
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11767&stc=1&d=1320771474


http://m.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&hl=en&client=mv-vf-uk&v=J7RsYvRSyXs

p fandango
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 17:19
lol i like it, did you notice any difference in the spool up with the RIP kit?

cherry1809
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 17:29
Haven't tried yet. Did it at ma and pa's (where me tools are) and wasn't warmed up enough on the way home.
Main reason for this was I was trying to find out why I was getting what seemed like fuel cut. I've cleaned EVERYTHING with carb cleaner so we'll wait snd see.

p fandango
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 17:31
hmm hate to say this, but if you were getting fuel cut before then the RIP kit might make it worse because it should spool quicker & slightly higher

what boost you running & assume your using a standard ecu & a mbc?

cherry1809
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 17:37
Nope. HLM304 and Blitz SBC. Exhaust is really black, So runnimg rich as hell.
Oh, And 1.2 bar.

bigrotch
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 17:47
Hlm takes out the fuel or puts it alot higher I've boosted up to 21/22psi and and never hit fuel cut in 304hlm the standad Ecu fuel cut Is a constant 15psi as pf said rip kit u will hit it alot quicker

cherry1809
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 18:07
Not fuel cut, Just seems like it. It's fine before and after about 3500k. It never did it when the ecu was first put on, It's just started. Making me think there is, Or was a vac leak somewhere.

Dangerous Dave
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 19:56
The problem could be with the boost limits.

If it is happening at a certain rev range then it might be that you are exceeding the boost limit for that rpm. The ecu would normally back off the boost after detecting boost over a set limit using the BCS, but because you ahve an external unit controlling the boost then the ecu goes to the next stage which is the cut.

A remap will either completely remove the boost limit (not good really) or just increase it. The limits can be increased at different RPMs so for example between 0 and 2000rpm the limit might be 8psi, and then 2000-300rpm say 10psi then after that say 15psi.

What boost levels are you running below 3500rpm?

p fandango
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 20:03
The problem could be with the boost limits.

If it is happening at a certain rev range then it might be that you are exceeding the boost limit for that rpm. The ecu would normally back off the boost after detecting boost over a set limit using the BCS, but because you ahve an external unit controlling the boost then the ecu goes to the next stage which is the cut.

A remap will either completely remove the boost limit (not good really) or just increase it. The limits can be increased at different RPMs so for example between 0 and 2000rpm the limit might be 8psi, and then 2000-300rpm say 10psi then after that say 15psi.

What boost levels are you running below 3500rpm?
thats what i thought, but he's already got a HLM304

Dangerous Dave
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 20:08
thats what i thought, but he's already got a HLM304
Yeah but the HLM304 might have boost limits at lower rpm. The best thing to do is ask Hamish what the boost limits are below 3000rpm on the 304 map (thats if that kind of information will be shared, as usually it is a closely guarded secret)

If he's hitting 15psi at 3000rpm and the ecu limit is 12psi then the ecu will do its best to stop the boost (as it is programmed to do that)

cherry1809
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 20:15
I only hit 1.2 bar at the lower end (About 3k) Above 3.5k I only get about a bar. Or did. Still haven't tried it since changing this lot yet.

Jamest5r
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 20:21
How harsh is the boost cut? is it's like it's just missing a bit and not pulling smoothly or just all gone if you get what i mean :)

Dangerous Dave
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 20:22
I only hit 1.2 bar at the lower end (About 3k) Above 3.5k I only get about a bar. Or did. Still haven't tried it since changing this lot yet.
LOL, thats 17.5psi at 3000rpm. I'm not sure what the maximum boost a HLM304 map reaches (at any RPM) but I'd say that that amount of boost at that level would be above the HLM304 limit

nottsgreent5
Tuesday 8th November 2011, 21:28
i made a preasure tester for the turbo i had a massive leek on the o ring on the base of the vac tree at the time it was very rich 15mpg and boost was very eratic

cherry1809
Wednesday 9th November 2011, 08:16
LOL, thats 17.5psi at 3000rpm. I'm not sure what the maximum boost a HLM304 map reaches (at any RPM) but I'd say that that amount of boost at that level would be above the HLM304 limit


How harsh is the boost cut? is it's like it's just missing a bit and not pulling smoothly or just all gone if you get what i mean :)

Right, I'm a bit more sober this morning. Lol.
Whenever the boost starts to creep in is when it hits the maximum I've set the Blitz at. I'm not a 100% where that is as I never use full throttle from below 3k anyway. I was just assuming thats where it starts to get full boost. It happens at the same point in 4th and 5th but not the lower gears. Just stops until I back off the throttle, Take it past 3.5k then I can wot again.

cherry1809
Wednesday 9th November 2011, 17:48
Oh, And just to throw another spanner in the works. It does it on low boost too.
I've yet to check the lambda sensor too, And is there usually any issue with the fpr?
Haven't had any fault light come up as of yet.

T4Rick
Wednesday 9th November 2011, 19:00
I thought the boost limit was 13psi lol before any thing would cut in.Think im at about 9psi

cherry1809
Wednesday 9th November 2011, 19:47
Boost limits low on a standard ecu. I'm not running a standard ecu. :)

T4Rick
Wednesday 9th November 2011, 19:58
Would you happen to know what the boost limit is on the std ecu

cherry1809
Thursday 10th November 2011, 08:11
Think someone said about 15psi, So you should be able to run 1 bar boost. :)

cherry1809
Friday 11th November 2011, 11:33
Well, Took her out for a proper run yesterday.
Drives a lot better. Spools up a little quicker and seems to pull a tad harder, So all good there.
Still got the miss though :(
Can hear a definate slight hiss from somewhere, So it's back under the bonnet on Saturday. All the obvious vac lines have been checked, And all the boost pipes are 100%. Are there any under the manifold I can't see that are likely to have perished? The RIP hasn't made it any worse either. Double checking yesterday it happened around 3800 - 4000 rpm.
I've got a spare coil, Worth trying that?

nottsgreent5
Friday 11th November 2011, 12:46
Think if you can preasure test the turbo i made my own from aerosol lid rubber gromet n bit of fuel pipe worked a treat def worth doing

Dangerous Dave
Friday 11th November 2011, 23:31
Are there any under the manifold I can't see that are likely to have perished?
Theres just that one that connects to the end of the manifold behind the steering pump.

Some other places to check:
-The one way valve that is inline with the pipe that comes off the front of the manifold and goes towards the near side above the fan cowling.
-The injector seals
-The one way valve that is on the brake servo


HTH

Bomb

cherry1809
Friday 11th November 2011, 23:43
Cheers mate, Will check them out tomorrow. :)

ajc106
Saturday 12th November 2011, 10:20
hi gents sorry to be thick but what is fuel cut i have a 850r that some times on hard acceleration seams to completely die for a split second then kicks again is this fuel cut and any idea how to fix no mods on car thanks

cherry1809
Saturday 12th November 2011, 10:50
Sounds like it. Where abouts on the standard boost gauge is the needle going?
If you've no mods and the gauge isn't going off the end of the white bit, You could have the same problem as me.

ajc106
Saturday 12th November 2011, 12:28
hi the gauge goes to the end sometimes but other times i have the cut out and the gauge never gets to the end gets annoying because it comes and goes got head change to do so hopefully when i strip it all down i might find some pipes damaged will have to wait and see unless someone has some idea at what to look for

Dangerous Dave
Saturday 12th November 2011, 13:06
hi the gauge goes to the end sometimes but other times i have the cut out and the gauge never gets to the end gets annoying because it comes and goes got head change to do so hopefully when i strip it all down i might find some pipes damaged will have to wait and see unless someone has some idea at what to look for
If you have no mods and the gauge is going off the white then it sounds like the wastegate actuator isn't working properly. Best thing to do is check all the small hoses around the engine and turbo (especially the the one that goes to the actuator) for leaks or breaks, after this many years they tend to crack/break.

On a standard ecu the boost should greach somewhere near 3/4 of the way up the white bar on the gauge.

cherry1809
Saturday 12th November 2011, 13:49
Theres just that one that connects to the end of the manifold behind the steering pump. Where does this one go? If it's part of the PCV, It was replaced last year.

Some other places to check:
-The one way valve that is inline with the pipe that comes off the front of the manifold and goes towards the near side above the fan cowling. The one from the black cylinder with a wire coming out of it, What does that do? The one way valve was knackered and was acting a two way valve, So I replaced it.
-The injector seals Haven't got to these yet
-The one way valve that is on the brake servo That seemed fine, As it hissed when I pulled it out.

On top of that, I went to check the VAC tree O ring and the bolt head snapped off :mad111:
Had to use one of the bolts that holds the throttle assembly, With a large washer to clamp it down.
The hiss seems to be coming from around the ICV area on tick over. Am I just hearing the ICV?

nottsgreent5
Saturday 12th November 2011, 17:15
have you got access to a compressor mate ill send you my preasure tester if you have on monday that will show up any leaks with a bit of soapy water sorted my leak in about 2 min

cherry1809
Saturday 12th November 2011, 17:49
Yeah, Have a compressor... And a knackered car. Lol.

nottsgreent5
Saturday 12th November 2011, 19:19
pm me your address and ill get it in the post monday lol

cherry1809
Saturday 12th November 2011, 20:12
PM sent. :)

wutang247
Sunday 13th November 2011, 10:25
bit cheeky but anychance of borrowing your pressure tester after lol, swear got a leak but cant find lol

Volvostorm
Sunday 13th November 2011, 11:05
Have you checked the hose between the vac tree and the ICV? The bent one, they are prone for splitting

cherry1809
Sunday 13th November 2011, 12:14
Have you checked the hose between the vac tree and the ICV? The bent one, they are prone for splitting

Yeah thats all new, As I had to re route it all when I swapped the hoses over (see pic) :)

nottsgreent5
Sunday 13th November 2011, 12:40
bit cheeky but anychance of borrowing your pressure tester after lol, swear got a leak but cant find lol

yes mate its just a home made jobby does the job tho lol

cherry1809
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 09:22
Theres just that one that connects to the end of the manifold behind the steering pump. Where does this one go? If it's part of the PCV, It was replaced last year.

Some other places to check:
-The one way valve that is inline with the pipe that comes off the front of the manifold and goes towards the near side above the fan cowling. The one from the black cylinder with a wire coming out of it, What does that do? The one way valve was knackered and was acting a two way valve, So I replaced it.
-The injector seals Haven't got to these yet
-The one way valve that is on the brake servo That seemed fine, As it hissed when I pulled it out.

On top of that, I went to check the VAC tree O ring and the bolt head snapped off :mad111:
Had to use one of the bolts that holds the throttle assembly, With a large washer to clamp it down.
The hiss seems to be coming from around the ICV area on tick over. Am I just hearing the ICV?

Bump. :)

M-R-P
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 09:37
On the ME7 manifold, there's a connection behind the steering pump, a banjo bolt with a coolant line running round it. It takes pressure from the manifold and routes it to the left hand top port in the catch tank.
I nicked this pic from volvo forums...
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g413/martinrpeachey/pic12.jpg
If this comes undone, or the hose is cracked, it will hiss. But I'm not 100% where it is on pre-ME7. Also, if you suspect your PCV is blocked but everything seems clean, it will be this connection blocked with crud. (it was with mine)
Have you checked your I/C for holes or cracked welds?

cherry1809
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 12:58
Yeah thats pretty much the same, But it was all replaced with new last summer.
The hose going to the left of the manifold is fine.
Haven't checked the intercooler yet... Bit of a pain to get to that one. :cry:

Flatout Phil
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 13:44
hi gents sorry to be thick but what is fuel cut i have a 850r that some times on hard acceleration seams to completely die for a split second then kicks again is this fuel cut and any idea how to fix no mods on car thanks

I am not entirely sure what fuel cut refers to in this instance. However, your problem sounds identical to one on my old T5 - during hard acceleration at speed it would splutter with a few misfires momentarily, then return to normal. I just replaced the plugs and all was fine - I should add that I had had the same problem on my old 850 GLE (non turbo 2.5) and had solved it the same way.
Not a bad (if slightly pricy) idea to put in a new coil either.
My suggestion is that you get the engine codes read, and see if anything is showing. But since it is a very cheap and inevitable job anyway, change the plugs first - and TBH never does any harm (except to the wallet) in replacing rotor arm, dizzy cap and leads. Basic stuff, but that is most often where the cause of misfires are to be found.

Dangerous Dave
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 19:08
Bump. :)
Have you pressure tested it yet?

cherry1809
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 21:05
Not yet. Should have the tester through tomorrow. Just wondered on the bits I've changed/repaired already. :)

nottsgreent5
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 21:11
would of thought itwould of got to you today mate soz for the delay

cherry1809
Tuesday 15th November 2011, 21:35
No worries chap, It may have done. The address I gave you was my parents, As there's nearly always someone in. I'll be up there tomorrow night. ;)

cherry1809
Wednesday 16th November 2011, 17:18
would of thought itwould of got to you today mate soz for the delay

Hello mate, It's not turned up yet :(
Don't know if you want to chase it up.
I'll let you know if it turns tomorrow.

nottsgreent5
Wednesday 16th November 2011, 20:58
ok mate pm you earlier if you still not got it by 10 tomoz let me know and ill get another sent cant chase it because didnt send it recorded ive bin waiting 4 days for some springs think royal mail on go slow lol

cherry1809
Saturday 19th November 2011, 09:38
Hello mate, Ones turned up :)


.........................Have you been watching 'Withnail and I'? Lol.

nottsgreent5
Saturday 19th November 2011, 11:18
haha good mate its dead simple but does the job lol