2005 v70r

[racer]

After a long time away from here, I'm back and in need of some advice. I'm going to look at a '05 plate V70R next week, and possibly returning to the Volvo fold.

Can anyone tell me what to look out for? I had an '06 V70R for a couple of years, but as nothing ever went wrong with it, I've no idea if there are any "stock faults" to look out for.

Thanks in advance!

[t5_monkey]

there's a fair bit that can go wrong with those - PM 'Santa20' on here he'll fill you in!

Main things... 4wd issues, cracked block, misty/faulty xenons.

Why the V70r rather than a remapped V70 T5 estate?

Real-world performance is similar ... and you'll have cash left over for upgrades if you go T5.

[M-R-P]

V70 T5 all the way! :)

[Santa]

They have there problems but when its working properley and you decide to have a bit of a play they are great :-) (And you soon develop a sense of humor for the repair bills.....the kids soon get used to having to go to school in shoes with holes in.....dog still needs that brain operation).

Oh and don't drag race it...........tends to put all sorts of strain on components and they aren't that great at the olde 1/4 mile anyway

[racer]

Thanks for the pointers. Why a V70R and not a T5? Basically because my last R was the best road car I've ever had by some margin. The 4WD really helps with some of the places I have to get to in winter for work stuff. Then there's race weekends, you can put the awning, tools, genny etc in the back, hook up the trailer and it will still go up motorway hills in 6th gear.

It was a leased company car, and if Volvo hadn't decided to stop building them, I'd have had another one when it was time to change.

I just can't afford the tax with the company car anymore, hence looking for another V70R.

[dave stew]

I've been doing some research too as I really fancy an R. The biggest problem is the 'angle gear' - this manifests itself on all variants of Volvo 4WD - google it and see the amount of XC90s with the problem. I don't know about the cracked block issue - what about the current S40 T5s and previous gen Focus STs?

In my ever so 'umble opinion, I would get the brute up on the ramp at least once every six months and check the angle gear oil seals as that's what goes.

[volvokid]

I wouldnt worry to much about the block, all performance cars have there flaws, i havnt heard of any standard blocks failing unless the engines tunned, my mates ST cracked the block but it is rather fiddled with. Go with the R there far better you should know this from past, far better than a T5.
not everyone out there tunes there cars

[t5_monkey]

People do crack blocks with the 2.5T... but generally they are tuned, even then it's basically pot luck from what I read.

If you're worried about the winter get a set of Winter tyres! The 4WD does sound nice for when it's wet and slippery tho...

S60R will need remapping to be genuinely quicker than a T5.

To give you an idea - mines bolt on stage 3, and it adds more speed in the 2nd 1/8 of the 1/4 mile than Santas Stage 2 S60R (although his is WAY quicker timewise in the first)

[volvokid]

In standard form a manual R will kill a T5 i have driven every one of the T5 phases and R's

[LiamT4]

I think its just the angle gear and suspension that you should look out for on a standard manual car.

I know richard (santa20) has had a few issues with his, but he does tend to drive it hard. lol

and even when totally standard the R does look far more "special" than a T5.

[Santa]

S60R will need remapping to be genuinely quicker than a T5.


Both standard the S60R will still have the edge even on a run. A mapped later T5 will most likely be quicker in real terms than a standard S60R.

On the corners and more twisty bits in anything other than absolutely perfect conditions with similar drivers the S60R will end up having more than an edge over the T5.

Really comes down to what you prefer though, AWD you end up replacing 4 tyres instead of 2 and pay more in fuel for the weight and friction.

[t5_monkey]

This is an interesting debate!

I'd be tempted by the R... they do look awesome - basically you only live once so why not :)

Bear in mind if you have either the T5 or the R... if you spend some money on upgrading the Suspension and handing which has never been a Volvo strong-point.... you'll be quicker than either stock in most conditions apart from a pure straight line, and have a lot more fun driving it.

IMHO polybushing, the IPD rear roll bar, Good Dampers (bilstein or similar) are far better upgrades than more power. Just had mine fully polybushed with all the kit listed above and more, and it's sublime to drive on a twisty road.

[Redbrick]

The only suspension mods needed on an R are the thicker IPD front and rear ARB's. Stick in a better intercooler and some WI and you are ready to roll. Seem to have dropped in price recently and it's a hell of a lot of car for the money.

[AndysR]

If I was in the market for a performance phase II 60/70 series car I'd have no second thoughts about picking the R. At no point would I be left thinking I should have gone for the T5 because I have

Better brakes
Better suspension
Better traction
Better seats
Better residual values
Better front bumper
Better standard exhaust and rear bumper to accomodate
Bi-Xenon headlights
Pegs and yes mine would be 18's
300 BHP

and that is as it comes from the factory too so saving a bundle not having to upgrade a T5 to be "on par" with the above R spec in an effort to differentiate it from a D5..

[STEVO RRR]

I've been doing some research too as I really fancy an R. The biggest problem is the 'angle gear' - this manifests itself on all variants of Volvo 4WD - google it and see the amount of XC90s with the problem. I don't know about the cracked block issue - what about the current S40 T5s and previous gen Focus STs?

In my ever so 'umble opinion, I would get the brute up on the ramp at least once every six months and check the angle gear oil seals as that's what goes.

As an R owner for nearly 3 years I have had all the problems you speak of.The angle gear parts are less than a £100 + a liquid gasket.All it is are seals and gaskets.Not a biggie.IMHO an R is far superior to a T5.Bigger brembo brakes,Pegasus alloys,active chassis with the more aggressive map in advanced setting,AWD,blue dials,spaceball gearshifter,the rarity value,stronger engine,better noise.Other problems are the dual fuel pumps,clutch and flywheel plus the struts.£550 for one from Volvo or you can buy 2(same Monroe strut)on Ebay for £330.Mine has been remapped to 340 bhp and a 3 inch SS exhaust that pops and bangs even at moderate revs.It sounds fantastic!They can be a massive PITA but whens all going well they are brilliant.It`s the best car I`ve ever owned and you can,literally,go months without seeing another one so its the perfect sleeper too.No-one knows how quick they are.To sum up expect to have these problems around the 100k mark but once they are fixed all will be well.I`m thinking of selling mine early next year and I`ll miss her.This year she`s been bullet-proof and a joy to drive and own.
Steve

[Jimmie]

Its good to see the comments from people in defence of the later R's that actually owned one,not just tittle tattle (hearsay).

There are a lot of people that comment againt them that have never had a seat in one let alone driven them.
They are a different machine to the T5,thats why there is a price difference when they were new?

[t5_monkey]

I've sat in one.... Santa20's

Is lovely and very plush.

When all is said and done - follow your gut instinct... your wallet will cope!

[Santa]

I've sat in one.... Santa20's

Is lovely and very plush.

When all is said and done - follow your gut instinct... your wallet will cope!

And the electric windows are very strong. (Sorry).

[jay30h]

Ive had my S60R for 2 years and 15k its now done 97K ,the more you drive one the more you like them.The brakes,grip ,sure footed road holding, trim and that fact you have something a bit unique are what makes an R special ,
Mine has been no more expensive to maintain than a T5 , i changed all the drivetrain fluids when i got it as Most angle gears fail due to the fact they run out of oil,i do the spannering myself although it still goes to MRG for a service
Having the injectors cleaned is also worth while and over 30mpg on a run is achiveable. I now have the dilema if i sell it im sure i will miss it ( i regert selling my 850 T5) and what would i get to replace it ? an R is a lot of car for the money

[t5_monkey]

And the electric windows are very strong. (Sorry).

Forgot about that! Yeah it has hungry windows ready to give you a nibble...

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ_yHG2vdmP_ltDOJg0_kHUb0jH_-4rqfND7FnF7ow1QBR9817YBw

[racer]

Thanks again for all the pointers. Didn't intend to launch a R vs T5 argument there BTW! Well, been to see the car yesterday, taken it out for a test drive and as there was absolutely nothing wrong with it other than a missing plastic cover for the rear tow point, have signed on the dotted line. Picking it up at the weekend! :)

Well, I say nothing wrong with it. It's on 17" Pegasus rims, not 18" ones and the interior is orange (I think Volvo called it "Gobi" or somesuch, but it's orange.), but it's a V70R with most of the toys on, so what's not to like?

I know not of these thicker IPD front and rear roll bars of which Brother Redbrick speaks. From track experience, stiffer roll bars are a bad idea in the wet. What's the deal with these? Do they adversely affect the car in the wet or do you still have a reasonable road going setup?

[LeeT5]

In standard form a manual R will kill a T5 i have driven every one of the T5 phases and R's

I totally agree!

[LeeT5]

After a long time away from here, I'm back and in need of some advice. I'm going to look at a '05 plate V70R next week, and possibly returning to the Volvo fold.

Can anyone tell me what to look out for? I had an '06 V70R for a couple of years, but as nothing ever went wrong with it, I've no idea if there are any "stock faults" to look out for.

Thanks in advance!

....It wouldn't be the Sonic blue one in Liverpool by chance? Currently advertised at £10995??
Before you go and look at it, give the dealer a call and see what 'packs' she has got. Don't think that one has Comms pack or family pack, but the 7 seat conversion is useless and a whole lot of extra weight. Also, she won't have the Sub Woofer in the boot if it has 7 seats either!!! (Point to note). Personally, i think it's a little overpriced despite its low mileage. I wouldn't pay over 10k for it.

[volvokid]

Think he has viewed it already lee, dont think ive seen a sonic blue for under 10, they're by far the best colour in my eyes. I do wish my one had navigation just so i could wire in my ipod, i found the phone in the c70 a waste as it was pre bluetooth so i never used it. One thing i want is the subs i do miss that alot

[LeeT5]

Before i go on i just wanna say, BLOODY WELL DONE ON YOUR NEW PURCHASE!!!!! :B_thumb:

I have owned my V70R since January 2010 and yes i have had a few woes but nothing that is fixable. I took a code reader when i went to look at her (with the intention of buying) and even drove her back home with a knackered MAF.

To dispell any myths, as ppl have said, its NOT the angle gear but the seal that is the cause of the angle gear failing. If it doesn't leak and is not wet on the bottom then you will be just fine. Just make sure you get under the car at every opportunity (inc tyre replacement) as garages don't always know what to look for on these cars.

My bevel box was noted as leaking by MRG Volvo at 96k and then it lost awd at 101k. So MRG replaced the Bevel box because the splines were stripped. The lack of oil caused the bevel gears to prematurely wear and therefore a new box was inevitable. The Angle gear was £756 (luckily i never had to foot the bill as it was the previous owner).

These Haldex awds are not like the 'Classic' '99-00' cars with the viscous coupling. Therefore you no longer need to worry about the 2mm tread depth rule on your tyres. ie, the difference between any tyre tread depth must not exceed 2mm and they must be the same depth on the same axle. So relax!!

Headlights can be a little problematic in that the Bi-xenon ECU (behind the light unit) fails. When this happens the light will not work and the only option is a new headlamp complete. They are about £780 each. However, it is not a common fault.

Timing belt change is every 96k. This will include a new water pump (whether its leaking or not).

Shock absorbers. These cost £435 each from the dealer front and rear. They are no different to any other shock absorber (being oil filled and not gas) and therefore wear just like any shock absorber. If anyone tells you they are ok because they aren't leaking - their an idiot!! FACT: just because it isn't leaking doesn't mean its ok. I garantee you will be replacing them at around the 90-100k mark even if they are dry. The front wear more than the rear unless your loading car up heavy all the time. I took my car to HLM in Bromsgrove earlier this year and Hamish replaced ALL 4 shocks with oe Monroe shocks (same as the dealer fit) inc SUM (Suspension module) recalibration for £1147 all in. The dealer wanted over £1700 just for the shocks, let alone to fit.
What an amazing difference and absolutely no need to waste any money fitting after market shocks. Just make sure when you take your car to the dealer (soon) that you have the latest SUM software installed. This, i garantee you, sorts out all the knocking and banging symptoms that earlier R owners complained about.
Cost: £300 MAX. Volvo had problems uploading the latest software to my car and it was kept overnight due to time difference (Uk and Sweden) so they could try again the next day, early doors. It finally uploaded on the third attempt hense the high labour charge. Still cheaper than a new SUM!! The software costs about £73.

Steering Temporary or intermitant loss of power steering, including heavy steering at slow speeds. The steering control module. Lives under the drivers footwell lower dash. A PITA to get to but worth it. They are common failures. Mine went last year. Put up with it for about 3 weeks. No P/S on these cars is not fun!

The common things that fail on these cars are:
MAF sensor £300
Air Quality sensor £162
Fuel pressure sensor £328
Angle gear £756 + fitting (if you don't check your oil seals)
Rear anti roll bar links (around 100k) £29 each.
Steering control relay £85

Uncommon failures:
Bi xenon headlights ECU £780
Dashboard instrument cluster £1000 (ouch)

One thing to check before ANYONE condems your awd is to check the plug connections on your rear Haldex ecu. They can easily come adrift and will mean your awd will not work. Make sure the rubber boots are fitted correctly on the wiring harness and plugs, else water will get in and shorts out your ecu. Mine were adrift, refitted and secured with small cable ties.

Having had my R for nearly two years and knowing what i know, if i were you i would do the following:

1) 100% check of everything that moves and check ALL seals and driveline.
2) 4 wheel alignment inc new tyres if needed.
3) Headlamp alignment - Dealer only (there is a wrong and right way to do it on these cars).
4) Latest software for ALL modules on the car - Dealer only.
5) Turn off day runners - Software - dealer only and will save your bulbs! Phillips D2R bulbs are £100 from Volvo!
6) Replace lower transmission torque bush (the small one) with Poly. They are weak as hell and ALWAYS tear out after small miles. £20 and a 15 minute job with basic tools. Will improve gear changes and slightly increase engine 5 pot warble. Gorgeous!
7) Have your exhaust manifold bolts retightened - I bet money on them being loose!! Makes a big difference to engine sound :)
8) Replace center hub bolts with XC90 type - Torque to 50Nm - They come loose if they are NOT the XC90 Type and will quickly knacker your CV joints. Trust me, i've been there and i know others that have had same problem. CVs are £65 each.
9) Fit a genuine Volvo Aluminium under belly tray - a bargain at £128! Could save you £1000s if you hit something in the road, inc speed bumps (the ones on bus routes) Also has cooling ducts to direct cold air to the rear of the engine and gearbox.
10) Stage '0' tune. Search here all all will be revealed. Well worth it and a must before you start spending lots on replacing failed components.
11) Ask dealer to turn 'ON' your after-blow function on your climate control. It will majorly extend the life of your condensor and Evap unit. £30 max. Can only be turned on by VIDA.

Top Tips

1) Treat and nurish the leather now! Don't wait for it to get worse and crack.
2) Only use genuine plugs. They come as a pack of five and will last 50k.
3) Have your codes read. Make a note of them all. You need a code reader that can read ALL the cars ecus, inc ECC, SUM. You will most likely have a few that won't throw the EML unless they are fuel related. Note them and erase the cars DTCs. Then recheck after two weeks or 100 miles. Any new codes logged will relate to faulty components. These will most likely be MAF, AQS.
4) Remove the U-shaped bracket under the car in the center. It will constantly ground out. Replace with special flat washers and bolts supplied by Volvo. It is an actual mod that Volvo charge 30 minutes for.
5) Have air con regassed. It will probably be low (if not recently charged). Make sure you use Climate control at least once every week for 30 minutes continuous use. This will ensure seals don't perish and the gas then leaks. (mine is ice cold within about 5 seconds!)

Thats it. Enjoy your new motor and got any Qs, PM me and i will be happy to help.

:wink:

[LeeT5]

Think he has viewed it already lee, dont think ive seen a sonic blue for under 10, they're by far the best colour in my eyes. I do wish my one had navigation just so i could wire in my ipod, i found the phone in the c70 a waste as it was pre bluetooth so i never used it. One thing i want is the subs i do miss that alot

I have my iphone divert after 5 seconds and it auto connects to the inbuilt phone in the car. Works well fella. Pay as go sim and away you go. Only use the car phone if i have to make a call on the move.

[t5_monkey]

Never realised the R had an 'afterblow' function :D

[Pauld]

LeeT5

Thanks for that R update, as a new owner too it has made interesting reading.

Do you know the part number for the aluminium tray?

Thanks

[T5R+]

The orange interior is Atacama.

Gobi is a light "creamish/tan/?" colour

Nordkapp is closer to blue.

The sonic blue in Liverpool is supposed to be a nice car, but too few toys for my liking. Seemed a nice fellow.

There was a black + atacama in Scotland, luckily members on here knew it's history.

I am after a facelift (ideally R but nice T5 would suffice) car but struggling to find "the one".

[LeeT5]

Never realised the R had an 'afterblow' function :D

Ohh yes!!!! They certainly do.

[LeeT5]

LeeT5

Thanks for that R update, as a new owner too it has made interesting reading.

Do you know the part number for the aluminium tray?

Thanks

I will dig it out for you......

Protecting plate - part # 9451784. £128 inc vat.

[LeeT5]

I am after a facelift (ideally R but nice T5 would suffice) car but struggling to find "the one".

Patience is a virtue. Took me 6 months to get mine. Mine is Black sapphire metallic with atacama interior. Comms pack, family pack, Rti and Sat nav.

Don't be afraid to get one if it has a minor fault. It can always be fixed even if the current owner doesn't want to. At the end of the day it's their loss!

[racer]

There was a black + atacama in Scotland, luckily members on here knew it's history.

GLUP !

Mine's black and of the Scottish persuasion. LeeT5, if this is a wind-up, then that got me hook, line, sinker and copy of the Angling Times. If not, I think I need a PM of someone!


I've printed your 11 point list of "Thngs to do when you get your R home." too, interesting one about the driveshaft bolts, didn't know about that. I'll be changing all of the fluids as a matter of course.

Most of that I can do myself as I'm quite well kitted up from looking after the race cars for several years. Might need some tougher axel stands though....

[volvokid]

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=37715&highlight=arnold+clark

Have a read

[Pauld]

Where do you get the plate for £128.00?

thanks

[dave stew]

Have you seen this site: www.v70r.com? Its American but full of useful stuff.

[lance]

This thread has seriously made me think of a V70R next

[M-R-P]

Have you seen this site: www.v70r.com? Its American but full of useful stuff.

Somebody cloned T5D5!

[LiamT4]

Somebody cloned T5D5!

Run/owned by the same person maybe?

[T5R+]

GLUP !

Mine's black and of the Scottish persuasion. ....

See the posted link in the event that it is the same car? If so, it started life at £12K and they eventually advertised it at £10K but they would not take my £8K offer, even if I "bought blind".

My suspicion is that it could be the same car and wanted to ensure a fellow Volvoer goes into the deal with their eyes open, armed with the facts......after all this is why forums should exist.

[volvokid]

Have you seen this site: www.v70r.com? Its American but full of useful stuff.

I havnt been on there for years it is a good site, went a bit quite though.

[dave stew]

This thread has seriously made me think of a V70R next

Me too! Just worried about that angle gear failure...

[racer]

Committed now. Picking the McV70R up on Saturday. I'll let you all know if it makes it back to Lancashire in one piece! I won't be doing anything exciting with it till I've changed all the fluids and had it up on the "New Heavy Duty Axel Stands I Must Remember To Buy" for a good inspection.

Fingers crossed. At least it "felt" ok when I drove it........

[volvokid]

Im sure it will be fine, i went to view it in AC in Aberdeen but it was gone, it hust wonder why its passed through so many dealers

[racer]

Well I'm NOT doing the Top Gear forensics thing with it after all this history. If it's been used to sell drugs, get dead bodies across borders, conceive illegitimate children or transport tinpot dictators, then I don't want to know.

Might be worth waving the geiger counter round it in case there's any depleted uranium in there too.....

[jbconno]

Is it the same car that was in AC ?

[merc85]

Think i will stick to my £700 855 t5 doh lol

[LeeT5]

Where do you get the plate for £128.00?

thanks

Main Dealer.

[Pauld]

Obviously inflation has hit, they are now just shy of £160!

[LeeT5]

Me too! Just worried about that angle gear failure...

Stop panicking!!!! There not made of chocolate! :rolleyes:

See thread #25 and you will be fine.

[LeeT5]

thread #25 updated. Please read all text. Extra info and pointers added.

One thing to check before ANYONE condems your awd is to check the plug connections on your rear Haldex ecu. They can easily come adrift and will mean your awd will not work. Make sure the rubber boots are fitted correctly on the wiring harness and plugs, else water will get in and shorts out your ecu. Mine were adrift, refitted and secured with small cable ties.

[LeeT5]

Obviously inflation has hit, they are now just shy of £160!

Mine included 15% parts discount. (special deal with dealer). :wink:

[LeeT5]

Obviously inflation has hit, they are now just shy of £160!

...better than £350 for a new sump...and that's providing you switch off in time and prevent further damage through loss of oil!

The Aluminium plate protects everything under the engine inc the oil filter.
Well worth the money if you ask me and even more so if your car is lowered.

[SexyBoy]

theres a 2005 v70r with mods and fsh for £7000 in doncaster, grey manual too.

[Pauld]

LeeT5,

Totally agree, mine should be arriving early next week

[Nick0]

Having had my R for nearly two years and knowing what i know, if i were you i would do the following:
9) Fit a genuine Volvo Aluminium under belly tray - a bargain at £128! Could save you £1000s if you hit something in the road, inc speed bumps (the ones on bus routes) Also has cooling ducts to direct cold air to the rear of the engine and gearbox.
11) Ask dealer to turn 'ON' your after-blow function on your climate control. It will majorly extend the life of your condensor and Evap unit. £30 max. Can only be turned on by VIDA.


Lee many thanks for this excellent posting .

Re: 9) Volvo say on their website http://accessories.volvocars.com/AccessoriesWeb/Accessories.mvc/en-GB/UK/S60/2005/R%20AWD/Manual/all/ShowDocument/VCC-425405"Note!
We recommend that it is NOT installed on cars with turbocharged gasoline engines with manual transmissions on high-speed markets" - is you car a manual or automatic?

Re: 11) What is the after blow function and what's the benefit in having it on (is it a software upgrade?)

[Nick0]

One thing to check before ANYONE condems your awd is to check the plug connections on your rear Haldex ecu.

I'm new to owning a S60R, where is the plug connections on the rear Haldex ecu?

[Nick0]

6) Replace lower transmission torque bush (the small one) with Poly. They are weak as hell and ALWAYS tear out after small miles. £20 and a 15 minute job with basic tools. Will improve gear changes and slightly increase engine 5 pot warble. Gorgeous!

Lee which part number or diagram reference are they?
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/S60+AWD+2002-238/1.html

[LeeT5]

Lee many thanks for this excellent posting .

Re: 9) Volvo say on their website http://accessories.volvocars.com/AccessoriesWeb/Accessories.mvc/en-GB/UK/S60/2005/R%20AWD/Manual/all/ShowDocument/VCC-425405"Note!
We recommend that it is NOT installed on cars with turbocharged gasoline engines with manual transmissions on high-speed markets" - is you car a manual or automatic?

Re: 11) What is the after blow function and what's the benefit in having it on (is it a software upgrade?)

RE: 9) Bol o x!!! I don't care what they say. The aluminium tray is designed for and fits perfectly as per Volvo's fitting instuctions. It WILL fit auto or manual. The plate has cooling ducts and air flow guides built into it to direct the cool air to the rear of the engine and up to cool the transfer box and rear part of the engine. I have had it fitted to my car for about 8 months now and not had any problems. One thing it does do is tell you its doing its job when you ground out on a speed bump or gravel track!! You can hear the gravel or road scraping the tray and NOT your sump or puncturing your oil filter.

My car is a Manual.

[LeeT5]

This is a copy of the latest tnn regarding afterblow from Volvo.

NO: 87-53
DATE: October 5 2007
MODEL / YEAR S60 2001 -
S80 1999 - 2006
V70, XC70 2001 - 2007
XC90 2003 -
SUBJECT: Air Conditioning System Odor / Afterblow Function
REFERENCE: VIDA
This TNN superseded the previous 87-53, dated November 21, 2005. The changes include: updates to the 1999 – 2004 method and added new method for 2005 and later.

DESCRIPTION:
There may be cases of odor from climate system vents on the vehicles listed above. Ensure the odor is not from some other source and all other A/C system checks have been completed. If necessary the Afterblow function can be activated to dry out the ventilation system and evaporator. There are two ways to activate the Afterblow function depending on the Model Year (MY). For MY's 2005 and later see page 2 for MY's 1999 - 2004 see page 3.

NOTE: Up through 2002 Afterblow was activated from the factory, 2003 and later Afterblow will be Retailer activated only.
SERVICE:
In all cases basic fault tracing needs to be performed prior to the afterblow activation. Once this has been completed see the appropriate instructions for Afterblow activation.

Check / Verify that:
- There are no refrigerant leakages (not PAG oil causing the odor).
- AC drain is not clogged - drains sufficiently i.e. no water standing in the climate box.
- No water standing underneath the floor carpets.
- Cabin air filter inspected / verify it's been replaced according to the maintenance schedule.
- Battery is in good condition.
If all the above has been checked and confirmed that they are not the cause of the odor then the Afterblow function should be activated to minimize the risk of odor.
NOTE: MY 2005 and later it is only necessary to activate / deactivate Afterblow one time per vehicle. If ANY new software is downloaded the Afterblow function will stay activated.
Tech-Net Notes
“Fixed Right – First Time”
Volvo Technicians, Service and Parts Managers
Copyright ©2007 Volvo Cars of North America, LLC. All rights reserved.

Page 2 of 3

MY 2005 and later:
MATERIAL for 2005 and later:
Description Quantity Part Number Activate afterblow software 1 30782577
Deactivate afterblow software (if needed to turn off) 1 30782664 Activation / Deactivation through VIDA:
- Software Tab
- Software product
- Select 30782577 (or 30782664 to deactivate if needed). Enter part number if not listed:
- Download software Read - Out the status "active / not active" in VIDA:
- Diagnostics
- Vehicle communication
- CCM / Advanced
- After - run passenger control status (wording may change in future VIDA updates.)
Note: Active or Not-Activated

When certain criteria are met the interior fan will start to blow 50 minutes after the car has gone into the sleep mode. The fan will blow for 15 minutes at half speed with the air directed to the dashboard air outlets. Make sure the customer is informed of this new function.

ACTIVATION CRITERIA:
Battery voltage greater than 11.9 V
Ambient temp greater than 75°F (24°C) when engine is turned off.
Runs only one time every 20 hrs.
MY's 1999 – 2004:
Activation and Read - Out the status "active / passive" in VIDA:
- Diagnostics
- Vehicle communication
- CCM / Advanced
- Programming the Climate Control Module (CCM).
When certain criteria are met the interior fan will start to blow 50 minutes after the car has gone into the sleep mode. The fan will blow for 7 minutes at full speed with the air directed to the dashboard air outlets. Make sure the customer is informed of this new function.
Copyright ©2007 Volvo Cars of North America, LLC. All rights reserved.

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ACTIVATION CRITERIA:
A/C compressor has been engaged for more than 4 minutes (continuously) out of the last 11 minutes before engine was turned off. Ambient temp app 82°F (28°C) and A/C compressor running for more than 50% during a 10 second period.

[LeeT5]

I'm new to owning a S60R, where is the plug connections on the rear Haldex ecu?

Car in the air....

Look towards the rear of the car, up to where the end of the Prop shaft is and on the N/S you will see a square aluminium box about 4" long and 1" thick with some wiring harnesses going to it. That's the Haldex ECU.

Next to it is the AOC (Active On Command) unit which holds about 1Litre of gear oil.

[LeeT5]

Lee which part number or diagram reference are they?
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/S60+AWD+2002-238/1.html

You need this one mate....

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Front+Lower+Engine+Mount+Small+Bush/519.html

#11.

Its exactly the same one as fitted to a V70, thou the link you supplied was for an S60.

[Nick0]

Top man many thanks Lee

[fly-wolf]

As an R owner for nearly 3 years I have had all the problems you speak of.The angle gear parts are less than a £100 + a liquid gasket.All it is are seals and gaskets.Not a biggie.IMHO an R is far superior to a T5.Bigger brembo brakes,Pegasus alloys,active chassis with the more aggressive map in advanced setting,AWD,blue dials,spaceball gearshifter,the rarity value,stronger engine,better noise.Other problems are the dual fuel pumps,clutch and flywheel plus the struts.£550 for one from Volvo or you can buy 2(same Monroe strut)on Ebay for £330.Mine has been remapped to 340 bhp and a 3 inch SS exhaust that pops and bangs even at moderate revs.It sounds fantastic!They can be a massive PITA but whens all going well they are brilliant.It`s the best car I`ve ever owned and you can,literally,go months without seeing another one so its the perfect sleeper too.No-one knows how quick they are.To sum up expect to have these problems around the 100k mark but once they are fixed all will be well.I`m thinking of selling mine early next year and I`ll miss her.This year she`s been bullet-proof and a joy to drive and own.
Steve
Hi STEVO RRR

When is she coming up for sale

Seriously interested in one,6 speed manual and as much BHP as possible

Got any pics

Cheers


John

[fly-wolf]

theres a 2005 v70r with mods and fsh for £7000 in doncaster, grey manual too.
Hi

Is she still up for sale

Seriously interested in one,6 speed manual and as much BHP as possible

Any pics

Cheers


John

[fly-wolf]

Hi

Is is she still up for sale

Seriously interested in one,6 speed manual and as much BHP as possible

Any pics

Cheers


John

[LeeT5]

WARNING....THREAD HIJACK!!!

Three threads asking the same question?? Why not look in the FOR SALE section instead of asking random questions and hijacking a thread. Or try Auto trader or Piston heads. You haven't even introduced yourself Newbie!