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merc85
Wednesday 21st September 2011, 18:43
HI there, after a new blanking plate, no dv i'm sure i still have this damm Boost leak. Also running a Forge unos which is excelent.

She can hold and increase Boost very slightly but then loses upto 5psi of Boost although slowly.

Also when i change gear then rpm's increase by 300rpm between Gear changes. She also POP's on the Over run.

I have Cleaned the idle control valve,Throttle body, changed the tps sensor, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake hoses, and she doesn't pick up.

But as soon as i drive along and change gear she rev's between the gear's

I Really do think the 2 or conected. (cracked Turbo exhaust housing)???

M-R-P
Wednesday 21st September 2011, 18:55
HI there, after a new blanking plate, no dv i'm sure i still have this damm Boost leak. Also running a Forge unos which is excelent.

She can hold and increase Boost very slightly but then loses upto 5psi of Boost although slowly.

Also when i change gear then rpm's increase by 300rpm between Gear changes. She also POP's on the Over run.

I have Cleaned the idle control valve,Throttle body, changed the tps sensor, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake hoses, and she doesn't pick up.

But as soon as i drive along and change gear she rev's between the gear's

I Really do think the 2 or conected. (cracked Turbo exhaust housing)???

Have you checked the i/c for leaks?
Mine's full of stone dents and I'm suspicious that at least one of them has done some damage :(

merc85
Wednesday 21st September 2011, 18:59
No BUd haven't checked that one, is there a easy way of checking the intercooler for leaks?

M-R-P
Wednesday 21st September 2011, 19:07
No BUd haven't checked that one, is there a easy way of checking the intercooler for leaks?

Get someone to rev it to about 3000-3500 rpm and try spraying it with leak detector spray (£2 from welding supply shops) or a strong fairy liquid and water mix in a trigger spray bottle. you will get bubbles if you have a leak.
Use the spray to check the connections for the charge air pipes in and out of the i/c too
HTH
:)

merc85
Wednesday 21st September 2011, 19:13
Really apreciate your reply's buddy, Will let you know how i get on.

M-R-P
Wednesday 21st September 2011, 19:15
Really apreciate your reply's buddy, Will let you know how i get on.

No probs mate, Just don't get that sparkly engine bay of yours covered in soapybubbles!;)

merc85
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 12:44
Really strange, Boosts to 19psi loses to 15.5 then increases to 17psi then loses down to 15psi??

Surly if it was a Boost leak, it would just loose boost and not be able to pick it up again.

Forge unos max'd out.

Have checked pipes for leaks using fairy liquid, I'm think the actuator is weak so i'm gonna give another full turn in and see what happens.

M-R-P
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 13:45
Really strange, Boosts to 19psi loses to 15.5 then increases to 17psi then loses down to 15psi??

Surly if it was a Boost leak, it would just loose boost and not be able to pick it up again.

Forge unos max'd out.

Have checked pipes for leaks using fairy liquid, I'm think the actuator is weak so i'm gonna give another full turn in and see what happens.

Is the boost control solenoid still connected? that could be playing up or trying to compensate for a leak?

'Tis a vexing one...:)

merc85
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 16:03
The BCS is plugged in But not connected by any vac lines.

Ive adjust wastegat arm by another turns feels alot better Now.

Still losings boost have checked all vac lines, all connections.

Took rip off and replaced with standard setup,

Still no change boost 19psi then after say 20sec of wot the boost drops to 15psi.

Surly it's gotta be Intercooler or Turbo housing

Intercooler is very loose in it's mountings?? how easy is it to take the intercooler out? does the rad and ac have to come out together?

Getting very flustrated now DOH!

M-R-P
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 16:31
When you adjust the w/g actuator, do you open and close the actual w/g arm that goes into the turbo? it should move freely. If it doesn't, the boost would be uneven. Mine seizes while opening so I get a surge of boost. Then when enough pressure builds up in the actuator, it snaps the w/g open giving a sudden drop in boost.

merc85
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 22:29
I dont think its intercooler as my ac rad sits in front of it, so surly if my intercooler had a leak my ac wouldnt work either?

Also i've notice i have a belt sqeak noise when she starts to boost, it's deffo not drive belt or idler's as the belt is new and the idler's seems fine.

Does it mostly when could not so much hot, but always when she boost's beging to think turbo!

M-R-P
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 22:38
All radiators work seporately so unless you had a cataclysmic problem, they wouldn't be connected. Also, your turbo has no dealings with any belts, the squeak will be something different. So check your w/g and keep chacking hoses etc.
Maybe you remap? could need adjusting to suit whatever new mods you've added?

merc85
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 22:44
Remap ecu was from my auto, it's now runing in my manual, Could this be the problem?

M-R-P
Thursday 22nd September 2011, 22:49
Remap ecu was from my auto, it's now runing in my manual, Could this be the problem?

IMHO there's probably a reason you get a map for auto and one for manual. Again, I'm not the one to answer this question, but from what I know about computers, you don't download drivers for an ATI graphics card when you own a Nvidia graphics card, You don't hammer a nail in with a hammer drill etc. etc.
But not really my place to say.

Shadow
Friday 23rd September 2011, 03:46
you said one of the radiators were loose could the ac rad maybe rubbed/worn a hole in the inter cooler?