BIG thanks to vpcuk members

[theflyingbrick]

as above really, for those that dont know i was having a few snags after getting my car remapped and thanks to the help and support for those involved and neal who done me a great deal on some bits, my car performs as it is rightly titled "the flying brick" so thanks again lads this forum and its members has done me proud:thewave:

[Nealevo]

Pleasure mate, glad it worked out in the end.... Now you can start playing

[Jamest5r]

Welcome :) so what have you changed/done?, post your finding's up it will alway's help someone.

[LiamT4]

Welcome :) so what have you changed/done?, post your finding's up it will alway's help someone.

Agree, I'm having little issues with boost, so may be a help to me.

[theflyingbrick]

Pleasure mate, glad it worked out in the end.... Now you can start playing

mate you dont know how much it did help it turned out my dizzy cap was split in three different places and if you hadnt of sent me that one i would of never replaced as it was a new one on it but the previous keeper obviously tightend it too much and split across all three bolts :cussing: so thanks ;)

[theflyingbrick]

Agree, I'm having little issues with boost, so may be a help to me.

mine wasnt boosting either even after remap turned out to be ignition problem i got spark plugs and ht leads but it was the dizzy cap arking all over the place so engine wasnt running properly in turn it wouldnt boost up!!

[LiamT4]

mine wasnt boosting either even after remap turned out to be ignition problem i got spark plugs and ht leads but it was the dizzy cap arking all over the place so engine wasnt running properly in turn it wouldnt boost up!!

Cheers, as a coincedence i'v just bought a new dizzy cap and rotor arm, see if it helps when they are fitted.

Going to get a new maf sensor soon (when i can find a place that do genuine ones for a decent price).
Then leads.

[LeeT5]

Just remember....Electricity ALWAYS takes the path of least resistance.
If your dizzy cap was arcing out or tracking, then the HT spark was shorting to earth. Most ignition problems reveal themselves when the engine is under load, especially in a Turbo charged car as the spark has gotta work extra hard to jump that gap. Misfires, lack of power, etc etc. This is precisely the reason why us old sweats in the forum will ALWAYS tell people to carry out a stage 0 before doing any mods. You would not believe the hassle it could save you in the future. Its very very easy to jump to conclusions and assume that something is ok, just because it's only 6 months old! If you never assume and always think small, then you will never go far wrong when it comes to diagnosis. Don't think outside the box and NEVER assume that just because it's new - it must be ok!!!
That one caught me out a few years ago when i diagnosed a faulty ignition coil on an old vectra. The misfire was still there after fitting the coil, but i stupidly ruled out the coil, even thou i had done ALL the checks and tests and correctly diagnosed it in the first place. When it eventually went to a local garage they tried a known good coil off their shelf and sure enough the car ran smooth. WHo would of thought that a brand new coil fresh out the box would be knackered?! It happens all the time.
yet again this is another classic example of barking up the wrong tree and spending loadsa man hours checking this and testing that when all along it was a basic serviceable part, easily accessible and only costing about £15.
Valuable lessons can be learned from this.
Glad it is sorted now and i hope you enjoy many miles of pleasure in your new found joy!! :)

[LeeT5]

One more thing for all those 850 drivers. A quick and very easy way to test your rotor arm:

Remove king lead from cap.
Remove cap without removing HT leads.
Using a pair of rubber handled or spark plug pliers, hold the king lead close to the center part of the rotor arm but leaving at least a 6 - 8mm gap.
Have a mate/girlfriend/wife/partner turn the ignition key and crank over for 3 - 5 seconds.
If you see ANY spark no matter how faint - YOUR ROTOR ARM IS U/S.
No Spark means all is well. Refit everything checking the cap is clean and dry inside before re fitting.

You should NOT see a spark because that means the HT is shorting to earth. You don't want it to short to earth, you want it to short to earth inside the combustion chamber via the spark plug.

If your rotor is knackered make sure you replace the cap as well. They should always be replaced as a pair as they wear, electrically the same.

[glock19]

One more thing for all those 850 drivers. A quick and very easy way to test your rotor arm:

Remove king lead from cap.
Remove cap without removing HT leads.
Using a pair of rubber handled or spark plug pliers, hold the king lead close to the center part of the rotor arm but leaving at least a 6 - 8mm gap.
Have a mate/girlfriend/wife/partner turn the ignition key and crank over for 3 - 5 seconds.
If you see ANY spark no matter how faint - YOUR ROTOR ARM IS U/S.
No Spark means all is well. Refit everything checking the cap is clean and dry inside before re fitting.

You should NOT see a spark because that means the HT is shorting to earth. You don't want it to short to earth, you want it to short to earth inside the combustion chamber via the spark plug.

If your rotor is knackered make sure you replace the cap as well. They should always be replaced as a pair as they wear, electrically the same.

I think it's a good procedure Lee, but maybe you can add that when rotor arm is okay, there could still be carbon build-up inside of the Dizzy too. These carbon are conductors and tends to be a source of grounding for the HT. Have them thorough cleaned before reassembly.