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theflyingbrick
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 19:42
as a above waited in all day for ecu to arrive it turned up 7pm (yodel you suck) as soon as i got it i was unwrapping the package whilst walking to the car plugged it in started her up went for a drive and..............tbh felt no different i was waiting for the all important boost to kick in and when it did it was excactly the same as before peak @ 13psi holding at 10psi !!! now i dont know if i was excpecting too much or what? maybe the boost gauge isnt the best but surely ,accurate or not, it should read something different than before,where should the origanal boost gauge read in conjuction with psi? and im still getting a backfiring/missfire under acceleration which i thought was boost cut but now i dont know :grumpy: having said that i still love the car i just want it to run right!! would a lambda sensor cause this much greif as engine light is on but so far no one can read my car so i have no codes to go on!!!

claymore
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 19:46
thers no point in putting a maped ecu in untill the car is running right, also it takes the ecu about a hundred miles to learn, you might need to adjust the actuator if you arn't getting the boost.

Jamest5r
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 19:50
Firstly, yes Yodel(ex-DHL) do suck lol

Secondly, have you do a full stage zero ie new plugs lead's hoses check all clamps etc etc, if not you wont feel alot of difference because your losing boost somewhere, but saying that a map will only push the boost to about 14 psi(1 Bar ish), if you were getting that before you sure it was a standard ecu you took out?

theflyingbrick
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 19:51
yeah i hear ya!! only reason (well not the only reason) is i thought it was boost cut as it used to peak at 13/14 so i thought a remap with boost limiter removed would sort it.........obviously i was wrong :(

really, 100 miles so do you think i should wait a while before making any adjustments?

theflyingbrick
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 19:56
Firstly, yes Yodel(ex-DHL) do suck lol

Secondly, have you do a full stage zero ie new plugs lead's hoses check all clamps etc etc, if not you wont feel alot of difference because your losing boost somewhere, but saying that a map will only push the boost to about 14 psi(1 Bar ish), if you were getting that before you sure it was a standard ecu you took out?

well i did examine the ecu when i first got the car and there wasnt a mark stratch or anything on it all i had was a mbc fitted by previous owner who also told me he done a full stage 0 service,so i sent the ecu off,when returned it had scratchs where the tabs fold so it has been opened up! to tbh i might give a stage 0 myself that way i know its done :)

Jamest5r
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 20:09
Take the mbc off and start from there, an mbc is alot more aggressive than a remap so no you probably wont feel much difference but your fueling etc will be ok, sounds like spark blow-out your getting so just a new set of volvo plugs, mbc off and see how you go then put the mbc back on if you want and adjust to about 1.4bar if you wish just never put you foot down until over 3000rpm :)

Edit the ecu dont need to learn just plug and play ive tried several different one's at the same time on rollers with Hamish

merc85
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 20:20
Sounds like Your Leads are Breaking Down,

I'm very happy with my Map, But it cooked my Autobox in 7 hrs lol

Now running it in my Manual 855 t5 with the Boost at 18psi. via a Mbc have been for around a Year.

claymore
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 20:20
My HLM deffinately needs to learn when I swap from turbo to compound,
and even when I had the ECU off you James, the car got better over about 100 miles

T5frankie
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 20:22
what james said you need new plugs i was going through them really quick on mine. a standard car will boost at 10psi, put it back to standard take the mbc off, put the new ecu in and see what it boosts to, then put the mbc on and turn up to 16+psi then you will be smiling mate mine was set to 22 psi awesome, my remap only saw 12 psi but more importantly removed fuel cut limit so with the mbc could put it to what i liked.

LiamT4
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 20:36
The problem is that now most of our cars are at an age were things are starting to wear out, break, etc. So many things can cause a lack of power.

I ran a 15.1 last year, with a different map. Got another map in october(ish) and the car was faster, but because of a couple of issues that have since appeared and that i still haven't sorted yet, the fatest i'v done this year is 15.3.

The current map was definatly too much for the actuator that was on it at the time.

yorkiet52
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 20:49
I had an ecu upgrade from hlm, in short it's awesome! It used to boost 10psi on the gauge but now goes straight over 15 mark and it's mint! You should feel it straight away. Before i bought it they did stress that the car needs to be in tip top condition to get the best out of it, id already done the stage zero and it was running well, no issues.

Do the plugs and leads take the mbc off and you should see the difference.

T5frankie
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 20:52
he feels no difference because of the mbc, the mbc is for the extra boost after what the ecu gives

theflyingbrick
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 22:12
thanks alot guys it does seem ive been a bit hasty in my tuning the more i think about it the more its pointing to leads/plugs as when the car is first started it just surges and holds back ever so slightly but after a while once the car is hot its shocking!! so it must be one of them breaking down as surely if was a vacum/boost leak it would do it all the time? thanks again guys it really does help having your input :) and seemingly infinite wisdom ;)

merc85
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 22:24
thanks alot guys it does seem ive been a bit hasty in my tuning the more i think about it the more its pointing to leads/plugs as when the car is first started it just surges and holds back ever so slightly but after a while once the car is hot its shocking!! so it must be one of them breaking down as surely if was a vacum/boost leak it would do it all the time? thanks again guys it really does help having your input :) and seemingly infinite wisdom ;)

Trust me Bud, Stage Zero tune is a Must, these cars are far from new these days, the more you increase the performance the next weakest like in the chain will Break!

I Change my oil and filter for instance every 3k, My wishbone have been given me jip latly. A ploy Bush kit is next on the cards me finks

Nealevo
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 22:28
Mine had the same misfire sort of problem, it was found that number 2 lead was breaking down under load, replaced with new genuine leads also did a full zero 0 tune and with HLM remap it was so much better, really felt much better. Hope you get it sorted

theflyingbrick
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 22:35
Mine had the same misfire sort of problem, it was found that number 2 lead was breaking down under load, replaced with new genuine leads also did a full zero 0 tune and with HLM remap it was so much better, really felt much better. Hope you get it sorted

me too!! but the more i read and think to myself the more i think its the leads/plugs think ill break out my meter tommorow test the leads and just change the plugs anyway,there are moments when it just clears and i can feel the power trying to get out but then the car throws a hissy fit and its gone again :( ill get it sorted though!!

Nealevo
Tuesday 6th September 2011, 23:47
me too!! but the more i read and think to myself the more i think its the leads/plugs think ill break out my meter tommorow test the leads and just change the plugs anyway,there are moments when it just clears and i can feel the power trying to get out but then the car throws a hissy fit and its gone again :( ill get it sorted though!!

I have some good newish plugs spare if you want them only done about 100 mile I just changed them to LPG special ones for my car, I might even have a dizzy cap aswell might keep your costs down!!!!

RPM
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 09:17
would a lambda sensor cause this much greif as engine light is on but so far no one can read my car so i have no codes to go on!!!

why can't anyone read your codes?

The Flying Moose
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 12:23
The first point of call with any of these cars as mensioned is a stage zero.

In terms of turbo, boost etc etc then an absolute must is to replace ALL ignition components inc HT leads, plugs, ingition pack. Next is the vacuum pipes as these break down. Once these are all replaced you are removing the most common problem areas that would lead to lack of boost, overboosting or boost cut. Should funds permit a set of refurbished injectors and a new fuel pump will also help.

None of the above is neccessary but on a car of 15 years I would certainly consider it as they are old components. This should cost no more than two hundred pounds in parts.

theflyingbrick
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 15:19
why can't anyone read your codes?

i dont know mate at the last essex meet i had 3 seperate readers unable to read it and my local garage cant connect to it either so im not sure what the problem is but for some reason they cant find my ecu in the scan!!!

theflyingbrick
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 15:21
I have some good newish plugs spare if you want them only done about 100 mile I just changed them to LPG special ones for my car, I might even have a dizzy cap aswell might keep your costs down!!!!

pm'd mate

Flatout Phil
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 16:14
Also remember that all these maps are designed for 99 octane fuel so you won't be doing yourself any favours unless using v-power or similar. But agree with Frank re MBC and also all the stage 0 stuff. Where are you in east London BTW?

Louie
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 17:15
why can't anyone read your codes?

I had a lambda light on my 850 T5 last year and no one could read my codes. Not even AA man could read it. The only company I know who has access to early 850 ODB is Snap-on. Other than that there is a way to (Flash the codes) using a home made OBD reader.

My lambda light turned out to be a leaking vacuum pipe on the inlet manifold. when I found the split I repaired it and light light went off by its-self.

Hope this helps

Lee

theflyingbrick
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 22:20
Also remember that all these maps are designed for 99 octane fuel so you won't be doing yourself any favours unless using v-power or similar. But agree with Frank re MBC and also all the stage 0 stuff. Where are you in east London BTW?

yeah ive been running it on super unleaded backwards and forwards to work,to be fair theres no shell stations round here so its 97 ron for me :( round here being canning taaaaaaaan lol

theflyingbrick
Wednesday 7th September 2011, 22:23
I had a lambda light on my 850 T5 last year and no one could read my codes. Not even AA man could read it. The only company I know who has access to early 850 ODB is Snap-on. Other than that there is a way to (Flash the codes) using a home made OBD reader.

My lambda light turned out to be a leaking vacuum pipe on the inlet manifold. when I found the split I repaired it and light light went off by its-self.

Hope this helps

Lee

mines has an obd 2 so i would of thought most readers could read it?? i might do a little search see if any local garages have a snap on diagnostic machine reader thing!!

p fandango
Thursday 8th September 2011, 04:01
mines has an obd 2 so i would of thought most readers could read it?? i might do a little search see if any local garages have a snap on diagnostic machine reader thing!!
how to make a code reader (http://www.box.net/shared/oy63haaef2)

i've driven many different maps & none have ever come close to how aggressive an MBC is so not been impressed with any

cherry1809
Thursday 8th September 2011, 09:08
Mine was exactly the same when I fitted a 304 chap.
Remember, When the supplying company fits the ECU, They wind the boost up to where the maps designed for. I didn't at first and it didn't feel any different. The important thing is, As mentioned that the boost limit is raised/removed, So the boost can go up. :)
Running much better now, Although I also think I have plug issues as it hits what seems like boost cut now and then, And it's only set at 1.21 bar (Also happens at 1 bar sometimes)

p fandango
Thursday 8th September 2011, 09:28
Mine was exactly the same when I fitted a 304 chap.
Remember, When the supplying company fits the ECU, They wind the boost up to where the maps designed for. I didn't at first and it didn't feel any different. The important thing is, As mentioned that the boost limit is raised/removed, So the boost can go up. :)
Running much better now, Although I also think I have plug issues as it hits what seems like boost cut now and then, And it's only set at 1.21 bar (Also happens at 1 bar sometimes)
the boost should be raised by altering the BCS duty cycle, so no other work/modification should be needed to the car. The original Superchips remap/chip simply removed the boost limit & an MBC/bleed valve was plumbed in, nothing was changed to the engine programming

cherry1809
Thursday 8th September 2011, 19:29
I thought they tightened the actuator as well?

p fandango
Thursday 8th September 2011, 19:32
I thought they tightened the actuator as well?
they shouldn't have to no

LeeT5
Thursday 8th September 2011, 22:33
The first point of call with any of these cars as mensioned is a stage zero.

In terms of turbo, boost etc etc then an absolute must is to replace ALL ignition components inc HT leads, plugs, ingition pack. Next is the vacuum pipes as these break down. Once these are all replaced you are removing the most common problem areas that would lead to lack of boost, overboosting or boost cut. Should funds permit a set of refurbished injectors and a new fuel pump will also help.

None of the above is neccessary but on a car of 15 years I would certainly consider it as they are old components. This should cost no more than two hundred pounds in parts.

....All the above but not forgetting a PCV change too. Don't even consider remap or MBC until you've changed the PCV system otherwise you run the risk of blowing the rear main and that will cost you £500!

£75 will get you all the hoses and PCV stuff from the dealer and about a day to strip and fit. Inlet manifold has gotta come off on a T5 '96 MY.

To check your PCV isn't blocked, Start your engine and warm up. Then let her idle and lift the oil dipstick about an inch out the tube. If she is breathing white smoke (even the faintest puff) then it's time for a new PCV.

Later cars with ETM expect to pay about £140 for the PCV as the intake is water cooled and parts cost more and are slightly different.

One more thing Flying Brick...The hesitation you spoke of in your first post on this thread, is not 'Boost cut out'. If it was you would know about it as the EML light will come on and stay on and the car will instantly throttle back and you will not be able to accelerate at all. It would be like two HT leads coming off! Therefore, i suspect, as do others that you have an ignition coil, HT leads or spark plug problem. All part of the stage 0 and must be done before any mods. Also make sure you are using high octane fuel ie Shell V-power or Tesco - Momentum 99ron. Anything less will cause pinking and lack of power on a remap.

theflyingbrick
Thursday 8th September 2011, 23:10
....All the above but not forgetting a PCV change too. Don't even consider remap or MBC until you've changed the PCV system otherwise you run the risk of blowing the rear main and that will cost you £500!

£75 will get you all the hoses and PCV stuff from the dealer and about a day to strip and fit. Inlet manifold has gotta come off on a T5 '96 MY.

To check your PCV isn't blocked, Start your engine and warm up. Then let her idle and lift the oil dipstick about an inch out the tube. If she is breathing white smoke (even the faintest puff) then it's time for a new PCV.

Later cars with ETM expect to pay about £140 for the PCV as the intake is water cooled and parts cost more and are slightly different.

One more thing Flying Brick...The hesitation you spoke of in your first post on this thread, is not 'Boost cut out'. If it was you would know about it as the EML light will come on and stay on and the car will instantly throttle back and you will not be able to accelerate at all. It would be like two HT leads coming off! Therefore, i suspect, as do others that you have an ignition coil, HT leads or spark plug problem. All part of the stage 0 and must be done before any mods. Also make sure you are using high octane fuel ie Shell V-power or Tesco - Momentum 99ron. Anything less will cause pinking and lack of power on a remap.

is super from sainsburys no good its 97 or should i make an effort and look for the 99?

merc85
Thursday 8th September 2011, 23:15
is super from sainsburys no good its 97 or should i make an effort and look for the 99?

I run mine on 97ron Bp Ultimate, But as soon as i filled with shell 99ron she felt imediatly better.

Just a shame the closest filling station is 20 miles away Doh!

theflyingbrick
Thursday 8th September 2011, 23:24
I run mine on 97ron Bp Ultimate, But as soon as i filled with shell 99ron she felt imediatly better.

Just a shame the closest filling station is 20 miles away Doh!

tell me about it most garages are gone now takes the p#&% i only go sainsburys coz their super is only 1.35 a litre im gonna try tesco see how much theirs is hopefully it is 99 ron :)