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smithson007
Sunday 14th August 2011, 23:19
Picked up my new toy (V70R) the other night from HADI. Nice fella to deal with. Shame he's Volvo less now. LOL

Ran it about 100 miles home in really bad weather so never got chance to give it a good thrashing.
Been to york for the weekend with it and it seems to be lacking boost or just really bad turbo lag.
Its currently running a 19T and a 330 rica remap as far as i know.
It has a boost guage fitted and when accelarating it only seems to be showing around 0.5 bar but then when it gets to around 3500-4000 rpm you can feel more boost kick in but still only reaches 1.0 bar at most.
I had a S70R a few years ago that was running similar set-up and it was a complete animal.
The S70 would push you back in your seat from the word go and keep you pinned there but aint getting this from the V70 at the min.

Any suggestions as to what it could be thats holding it back so much?

Do you get bad lag from the 19t's?

Thanks very much.

Vikingxl
Sunday 14th August 2011, 23:21
Cant you give HADI a ring and see if its an issue he has had before it might be something really simple or it might just be the turbo set up but he would know.

smithson007
Sunday 14th August 2011, 23:33
Cant you give HADI a ring and see if its an issue he has had before it might be something really simple or it might just be the turbo set up but he would know.

Yes im going to give him a call tomorrow and see what he says.

Could an MBC be fitted to help?

Vikingxl
Sunday 14th August 2011, 23:49
No idea mate i dont do technical

ROZER
Sunday 14th August 2011, 23:55
put a code reader on it first the bcv maybe needs changing then i would clean the maf with some brake cleaner check all intercoler pipes and vac pipes make sure all pipes from and to turbo are tight with socket not screwdriver worked for me

smithson007
Monday 15th August 2011, 00:03
Yes ill give all those a try mate cheers. Just need to find someone that will check the codes. I refuse to pay volvo prices for doing it.

Vikingxl
Monday 15th August 2011, 00:11
there is a forum code reader floating about somewhere well not a forum one but one a kind member is willing to lend out

merc85
Monday 15th August 2011, 00:36
Mbc would help, or tighten the actuator rod, But as advised get any codes read 1st.

mitchyboy01
Monday 15th August 2011, 00:42
May be wrong here but wouldn't the map govern the boost so no need for MBC? Probably best to ask who you bought it from. Maybe he may have had same problem in the past??

ROZER
Monday 15th August 2011, 01:03
your right no need for mbc if you have rica 330 with 19t you have custom rica map you should be seeing 18 psi all day on that spec codes first if not check controls bcv. maf. map.pipework and maybe actuator rod but you need a boost gauge to set rod the correct way.but i dont think its that .

T5frankie
Monday 15th August 2011, 06:12
Dunno what these lot are on about but 14.5 psi sounds good for a remap mate mine only went to 12 after a map it sounds normal to me, fit an mbc and turn it up to what your happy with I advise about 18 psi though. A remap will never give you 18 psi on its own lol

p fandango
Monday 15th August 2011, 07:36
Do you get bad lag from the 19t's?
yes, it improved no end once i'd fitted a 960 throttle body & enlarged RIP but was very disappointed beforehand (but had come from a 15g). 19T's can bend rods very easily & the step in boost is programmed into the map to ease the chance of bending them

mitchyboy01
Monday 15th August 2011, 09:52
You shouldn't need an MBC if you have a remap. Although most do for that extra bit of boost. My old car was boosting to 20psi on a 15g with a custom map, cone filter and decat exhaust. 313bhp dyno printout and Shaun 850 ran a 14.0 1/4 in it when he had it. Although I used a MBC to adjust boost and have a play with that lol

If funds allow, I would stick a MBC on it and go get a custom map to the psi you want and then you know you're car is set up for your exact spec. Also the dyno will show up any possible faults with your car, boost leaks, AFR's too rich/lean etc. It shouldn't feel sluggish with a 19t and 330 map. It should rip your arms off!!

T5frankie
Monday 15th August 2011, 10:47
A 330 map don't mean 330 bhp its just a mapped 19t so should should have around 290 bhp.

mitchyboy01
Monday 15th August 2011, 12:27
A 330 map don't mean 330 bhp its just a mapped 19t so should should have around 290 bhp.

Yes mate, I agree. But surely if his car was anywhere near 290bhp it would still rip his arms off. There must be something wrong somewhere.

p fandango
Monday 15th August 2011, 12:30
Yes mate, I agree. But surely if his car was anywhere near 290bhp it would still rip his arms off. There must be something wrong somewhere.
when i first had the 19t fitted the boost built up very slowly, used to give you just enough for overtaking when you first floor'd it but the boost kept rising with the revs

T5frankie
Monday 15th August 2011, 15:20
everything sounds fine nothing a little actuator adjustment wouldn't sort out to bring the boost in earlier

smithson007
Monday 15th August 2011, 17:37
Thanks for the help peeps. Theres something deffo not right with it. I was going on to stretch dual carriageway lastnight saab up my backside thought oh yes try keep up stuck my foot down very little lift, dropped it to 4th still not alot dropped to third still only doing 45 mph at most and it hardly even moved. lets just say i didnt leave the saab behind like i wanted to. LOL.
You right in what you say i was expecting it to try rip my arms off and it just aint at the min.
I ve just been out checked all hoses and everything seems tight.
Checked the actuator and there's only around 5mm of thread left showing behind the nut.
Is that normal?
What sort of money are you talking for a half decent MBC and what makes are best to go for?
Also are the Rica's just a upgraded raedy mapped ecu or are they or can they be set up to suit what your running?
Cheers.

T5frankie
Monday 15th August 2011, 18:00
is the actuator rod tight? or does it rattle, best off taking the turbo heat shield off (and leave it off for future work) threads are irrelevant as every car differs, as for an mbc get a forge unos, best there is mate

smithson007
Monday 15th August 2011, 18:18
is the actuator rod tight? or does it rattle, best off taking the turbo heat shield off (and leave it off for future work) threads are irrelevant as every car differs, as for an mbc get a forge unos, best there is mate

Yes the rod seems tight mate. Might have a little play with it later. Just dont want to break anything. Well not this soon after getting it anyways.LOL.
Might try get it on a dyno somewhere soon see what it is actually making.

T5frankie
Monday 15th August 2011, 18:33
Yes the rod seems tight mate. Might have a little play with it later. Just dont want to break anything. Well not this soon after getting it anyways.LOL.
Might try get it on a dyno somewhere soon see what it is actually making.

just undo the lock nut and pull the rod out a little more and more until you are happy if that dont work actuator may need changing but 14.5 psi is alot more than standard which is 10psi and is good for a map

smithson007
Monday 15th August 2011, 18:51
just undo the lock nut and pull the rod out a little more and more until you are happy if that dont work actuator may need changing but 14.5 psi is alot more than standard which is 10psi and is good for a map

Cheers mate ill give it a try. Will a break something if i got to far with it?
To be honest with ya a dont think its making it as far as 1 bar on the guage and thats when it feels like its giving the most boost.

M-R-P
Monday 15th August 2011, 18:59
Just to add something to this thread, is the wastegate working? on mine, the gate itself had seized in the half way position. the best way to check, I found, was to connect a bicycle pump to the actuator using a pointy inflatable toy adapter jammed in the end of the actuator hose. pump it a few times and watch the actuator rod. If the actuator backs away from the rod, then the gate is seized and needs freeing. You should see the rod move out and return slowly if all is ok. HTH.
:)

T5frankie
Monday 15th August 2011, 19:18
Cheers mate ill give it a try. Will a break something if i got to far with it?
To be honest with ya a dont think its making it as far as 1 bar on the guage and thats when it feels like its giving the most boost.

my map was only giving 12psi so i stuck the mbc on and put it to 22psi, now thats fun, but having another engine put in now because of it lol, you won't break nothing just do a turn at a time

Yorkshiresxi
Monday 15th August 2011, 21:54
my map was only giving 12psi so i stuck the mbc on and put it to 22psi, now thats fun, but having another engine put in now because of it lol, you won't break nothing just do a turn at a time

lol famous last words.lol

smithson007
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 19:07
Took the car out for a quick spin last night. Got it on a good stretch of road where i could watch the boost guage and the highest it ever reached was 0.7 bar. All didnt end well when i got pulled by the plods so i had to slope of home and im in hiding for a few days now. LOL.
When sitting at idle the guage is reading -0.6 bar is this ok? Also could the dump valve be to weak to hold the boost? It's a bailey's dump valve.

mitchyboy01
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 19:14
Took the car out for a quick spin last night. Got it on a good stretch of road where i could watch the boost guage and the highest it ever reached was 0.7 bar. All didnt end well when i got pulled by the plods so i had to slope of home and im in hiding for a few days now. LOL.
When sitting at idle the guage is reading -0.6 bar is this ok? Also could the dump valve be to weak to hold the boost? It's a bailey's dump valve.

Vac seems a bit low. My T5R used to only have 0.5 of vacuum until we found about 20 air leaks which Niles and co sorted. Reads -0.95 now and boosts much better. Sounds like you have a definite leak somewhere.

T5frankie
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 19:16
Took the car out for a quick spin last night. Got it on a good stretch of road where i could watch the boost guage and the highest it ever reached was 0.7 bar. All didnt end well when i got pulled by the plods so i had to slope of home and im in hiding for a few days now. LOL.
When sitting at idle the guage is reading -0.6 bar is this ok? Also could the dump valve be to weak to hold the boost? It's a bailey's dump valve.

thats funny cos thats what they boost standard, sure he aint kept the rica ecu pmsl.......:hidesbehi

smithson007
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 20:03
Vac seems a bit low. My T5R used to only have 0.5 of vacuum until we found about 20 air leaks which Niles and co sorted. Reads -0.95 now and boosts much better. Sounds like you have a definite leak somewhere.

Would you be able to hear an air leak when its ticking over?

si850r
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 20:08
mine was the same, lumpt tick over etc...low boost...turned out to be the inlet manifold gasket+ vac lines to the tourbo...sorted them now im making m3 s look like little go karts....lol

smithson007
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 20:11
thats funny cos thats what they boost standard, sure he aint kept the rica ecu pmsl.......:hidesbehi

Lol. :shhh: At the min it feels much the same as my v70 t5 used to. not slow but not a flying machine. I need to get it on a dyno see what its doing. Think i maybe need to have a sit in somebody else's when theyre driving it to see what theres is like. Im maybe expecting something that just aint going to happen.

smithson007
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 20:13
mine was the same, lumpt tick over etc...low boost...turned out to be the inlet manifold gasket+ vac lines to the tourbo...sorted them now im making m3 s look like little go karts....lol

It has a full samco hose kit on but starting to wonder if i have a leak somewhere.

Jamest5r
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 20:18
Defo sounds like you have a leak somewhere, try and find a garage near you with a smoke machine or if not soapy water in a bottle and spray it over all the joins etc, low tech i know but it works :)

smithson007
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 20:27
Might try get it in to a garage see if they can have a look. Need to get an oil leak sorted and knocking/rattle from front end sorted to.

si850r
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 20:49
try the soapy spray around the throttle bosy.mine was missing a gasket there and after some sound advice on the phone via giles (smithy) that was where another leak was from

AndysR
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 21:07
Vac is definately too low at idle if the gauge your using is accurate. As already said I'd be looking for between 15/18 in.Hg's at idle. It certainly sounds like you've got a leak somewhere on the intake or vac system. I'd try bypassing and removing the dump valve first then go about replacing the rubber vac lines to and from the turbo and bcs. Also if it has a dump valve fitted has the standard recirc valve been removed and if so is the blanking plate fitted in it's place correctly and is it sealing? If the standard recirc valve is still fitted first off why, then has the rubber diaphram split inside allowing a leak.

T5frankie
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 21:15
i thought this car was supposed to be one of the best saffy's on here, another new buyer having problems already.

AndysR
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 21:15
i thought this car was supposed to be one of the best saffy's on here, another new buyer having problems already.

I guess every car has it's faults...

T5frankie
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 21:24
I guess every car has it's faults...

faults are supposed to be declared especially to fellow forum members

mitchyboy01
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 21:35
Would you be able to hear an air leak when its ticking over?

When mine had a vac leak it was ticking over at 1100 instead of 800 mate. Don't know if you have this symptom??

si850r
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 21:41
when my leak was there on start up it would go to about 2-2500 rpm then drop from cold and when driving along the revs would be fine, but intraffic they would bounce from 900 to 1500 .It would never stall but was a right pain in the arse to drive. also the brakes went rock hard as if no servo was there, sorted the leaks and still to this day ( touch wood ) every thing is 100%...... :-)

smithson007
Tuesday 16th August 2011, 22:35
Vac is definately too low at idle if the gauge your using is accurate. As already said I'd be looking for between 15/18 in.Hg's at idle. It certainly sounds like you've got a leak somewhere on the intake or vac system. I'd try bypassing and removing the dump valve first then go about replacing the rubber vac lines to and from the turbo and bcs. Also if it has a dump valve fitted has the standard recirc valve been removed and if so is the blanking plate fitted in it's place correctly and is it sealing? If the standard recirc valve is still fitted first off why, then has the rubber diaphram split inside allowing a leak.
Yes the standard recirc valve has been removed and blanking plate fitted. I was given the old valve with the car.
will take the blanking plate off and check its sealing ok. Is there some sort of seal it should have in it? If i blanked off the dump valve is it ok to try it even with the blanking plate on where the standard recirc valve was?


faults are supposed to be declared especially to fellow forum members
I did know about the oil leak and the knock from the front end. These are believed to be turbo oil return pipe and drop links. He did knock money off for the drop links because he asked the garage to fix these and they said it was track rod end it needed so they did this and problem wasnt fixed when he got it back. Its just the power thing thats bugging me at the min. To be fair to HADI he doesnt seem like a fast driver so he's never really drove it like im going to. When a spoke to him about it he says its always been like that as long as he's had it.


When mine had a vac leak it was ticking over at 1100 instead of 800 mate. Don't know if you have this symptom??
Funny you say this because when i took it out lastnight it was idling at just over 1000rpm. It did this every time it went back to idle so its looking like it could be a leak on the vac side of things.