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TheT6Kid
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:08
When I bought my S60 last month, I didn't spot this problem lurking!
I had a good look at the car but failed to notice a locking wheel nut that was smashed to bits.
There was a tiny piece of the chrome head remaining.
I was at a friends garage and he said "you've got a wheel bolt missing" I only wish that had been the case.

This little 'problem' is defeating everything I can throw at it.
So far I've tried, a pneumatic finger sander to flatten the surface, then a centre punch and drilling- resulted in a tiny pimple after lots of effort..

Next step was to try and weld a nut to the flat suface, the weld just kept snapping...

I did a bit of research and seen a locking wheel nut removal tool, consisting of cutting blades and a impact driver, this thing got great write ups. Contacted an old school friend who works for a roadside assistance service, he had one as part of his tool kit...
Another hour spent today and still the wheel nut remnants are not giving up.

Unless anyone can suggest any other methods I think I am going to have to destroy the wheel to get the

We have talked about spark erosion bit I've yet to find anyone local with the equipment.

Help me! Any suggestions are more than welcome...

fyldetowbars
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:12
i had no locking wheel nut my local tyre dealer had some kind of impact drill driver thingy he got them of in no time

p fandango
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:16
i'm afraid i had the same bother, the dealer before had done the wheel nuts up so tight they wouldn't shift. Tried several wheel shops but ended up cutting the wheel off

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/Bonny/DSCF0001.jpg

james
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:19
a picture would help us more to see exacly whats what :)

t5_monkey
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:36
damn that's a tough one!

Hope you get it sorted.

Mad idea 1 - What about drilling into the remnants with a very fine drill head (2mm or something) repeatedly, weakning it to the point where brute force will break it off ?

TheT6Kid
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:45
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/davescott699/photo-1.jpg

TheT6Kid
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:47
The wheel is salvageable at the moment as there is no damage to the 'hole' the bolt collar is the bit thats chewed up. The damage to the bolt recess could be filled and smoothed prior to refurb.

TheT6Kid
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:49
damn that's a tough one!

Hope you get it sorted.

Mad idea 1 - What about drilling into the remnants with a very fine drill head (2mm or something) repeatedly, weakning it to the point where brute force will break it off ?

Already snapped a large number of drill bits. Anything too small in diameter snaps, anything too large won't bite in due to the hardness of the shank of the bolt.

Mad idea 2?

TheT6Kid
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:51
i'm afraid i had the same bother, the dealer before had done the wheel nuts up so tight they wouldn't shift. Tried several wheel shops but ended up cutting the wheel off

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/Bonny/DSCF0001.jpg

Its such a waste, for someone elses careless actions, more than likely too lazy to tighten by hand and just wind and wind with an impact gun!!

ncarnall
Thursday 30th June 2011, 16:56
Try using a masonry drill bit as these have a carbide tip, it will need to be a good quality one. We use them at work to remove broken drill bits all the time. So may help!

Good luck

t5_monkey
Thursday 30th June 2011, 17:19
idea 2 - melt the offending part with a blow torch so you can pull the wheel off.

will need to change the the hub bolt (or possibly full hub) but the wheel may well survive.

Idea 3 - buy another wheel then it doesn't matter how you get it off?!

graemewelch
Thursday 30th June 2011, 17:36
start off with a 4mm drill bit, go nice and slow other wise you burn the drill out and harden the surface of the bolt. this will be the cause of the snaped drills. or if you have access the a stick welder weld on a m10 or 12 bolt and crack it off that way. the heat will also help. your not to far away so if you get stuck give me a shout im sure i could get them out for you

TheT6Kid
Thursday 30th June 2011, 18:54
start off with a 4mm drill bit, go nice and slow other wise you burn the drill out and harden the surface of the bolt. this will be the cause of the snaped drills. or if you have access the a stick welder weld on a m10 or 12 bolt and crack it off that way. the heat will also help. your not to far away so if you get stuck give me a shout im sure i could get them out for you

Already tried welding a nut on, but it just broke the weld. Thanks for offer, its getting personal now, its just a piece of metal it will not beat me! LOL

claymore
Thursday 30th June 2011, 18:59
I'm with Pedro on this one, I did everything you did on a Peugeot 206, in the end I had to cut the wheel off

TheT6Kid
Thursday 30th June 2011, 18:59
Two hours in and a handful of drill bits, but we have had a break through.
This picture doesn't really give an accurate perception of how deep i've managed to drill, but looking at one of the other bolts, i should be in line with the base of the collar and i'm probably about 10-11 mm in diameter. I need a slightly larger diameter drill bit and a fresh pair of arms in the morning.
However i feel like i'm making progress, finally!

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/davescott699/photo2.jpg

t5_monkey
Thursday 30th June 2011, 20:09
keep at it mate you can win!! :)

Tomcat
Thursday 30th June 2011, 20:11
Well done that man...Don't let it beat you.

graemewelch
Thursday 30th June 2011, 20:21
Already tried welding a nut on, but it just broke the weld. Thanks for offer, its getting personal now, its just a piece of metal it will not beat me! LOL

stick weld or tig it is the key. gets hot enough to penertrate the material that way.mig tends to be a bit on the colld side unless have a powerfull 3 phase set. looks like yr getting there though.

TheT6Kid
Friday 1st July 2011, 20:20
Can I be smug????? In the end the best tool I had was determination!!
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/davescott699/Success.jpg

p fandango
Friday 1st July 2011, 20:22
well done, i bet the rest of the thread came out of the hub easily with pliers once you'd got the wheel off

TheT6Kid
Friday 1st July 2011, 20:26
It took me over two evenings about 4.5 - 5 hours with the drill and a number of drill bits.
Big Thanks to all that chipped in with ideas but special thanks to 'ncarnall' as it was masonary drill bits that let me win in the end - Cheers mate.
As for the remainder of the bolt (it snapped at the base of the cone), believe it or not i unscrewed it with my fingers out of the hub!!!

p fandango
Friday 1st July 2011, 20:31
As for the remainder of the bolt (it snapped at the base of the cone), believe it or not i unscrewed it with my fingers out of the hub!!!
i had to cut 3 wheels off, & all the threads came out the hub either by hand or with pliers. I think if there done up too tight then the bolt head grips into the wheel & locks it more than the thread in the hub being too tight or rusty

woz
Saturday 2nd July 2011, 15:02
i had no locking wheel nut my local tyre dealer had some kind of impact drill driver thingy he got them of in no time

Yeah - I would be inclined to take it in somewhere and let them worry about it.
If you ask for a quote first, they'll say "£15 mate" and if it takes them 2 hours it wont be your prob.

Dont tell them I sent you;>)

Hope you get it sorted.

W:>)

TheT6Kid
Saturday 2nd July 2011, 18:52
Yeah - I would be inclined to take it in somewhere and let them worry about it.
If you ask for a quote first, they'll say "£15 mate" and if it takes them 2 hours it wont be your prob.

Dont tell them I sent you;>)

Hope you get it sorted.

W:>)

All sorted now you must have missed a couple of posts out^
I am sure if they looked at what I had when I started most of them would have been very reluctant to take the job on.

t5_monkey
Saturday 2nd July 2011, 22:57
good work mate! British pluck and spirit there :D

TheT6Kid
Sunday 3rd July 2011, 07:43
Now I've got my wheel off, I can think about getting these fitted. Bought them a week ago and had them refurbed. Re-assembled them last night, (Rock and roll eh? Saturday night re-assembling split rims with a torque wrench and Loc-tite)...Just need some tyres!
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/davescott699/Nebula.jpg

ncarnall
Sunday 3rd July 2011, 10:10
Very nice!

TheT6Kid
Wednesday 6th July 2011, 19:08
4 X 225/40/18 Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta's ordered today, Overnight delivery.....
Its a waiting game now....

TheT6Kid
Wednesday 6th July 2011, 19:14
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/davescott699/vredestein-ultrac.jpg

v70torslanda
Wednesday 6th July 2011, 23:21
IMHO you've bought the wrong size tyres old bean.

S60 & V70 with factory Nebulas used 235s.

Worry not, you can rectify it in about 12 months time when they've all worn out . . .

TheT6Kid
Wednesday 6th July 2011, 23:42
Did the sums and that is the closest size for the rolling circumference to match my 17's as fitted now.
I think if you fit 235's you need a trip to dealers to change the ECU to allow a correct speedo reading.
225's over read by 0.32 MPH at 70 which is a very small difference.
I think the 225's may also have less chance of rubbing the wheel arch liners.
I have tried to weigh the Pro's and cons up, it has been an informed choice.
I appreciate the input though.

p fandango
Thursday 7th July 2011, 04:18
IMHO you've bought the wrong size tyres old bean.

S60 & V70 with factory Nebulas used 235s.

Worry not, you can rectify it in about 12 months time when they've all worn out . . .
well spotted, i put 235's on the 18's for my S60

TheT6Kid
Thursday 7th July 2011, 06:12
well spotted, i put 235's on the 18's for my S60

Did they rub the arch liners?
I have no first-hand experience of this, I'm only going by what i read?

p fandango
Thursday 7th July 2011, 06:18
Did they rub the arch liners?
I have no first-hand experience of this, I'm only going by what i read?
they rub about the same as the 17's did, as said its no issue running 225 & can go for the different size when they need changing

i just went for the size written on the filler cap door

TheT6Kid
Thursday 7th July 2011, 06:23
Apologies the speedo under-reads

Standard Tyre - 225/45R17

Tyre 1 - 225/40R18
Speedometer Difference: 0.434% too slow

Tyre 2 - 235/40R18
Speedometer Difference: 1.722% too slow

p fandango
Thursday 7th July 2011, 07:25
my speedo read 8mph over on the original tyres anyway lol

TheT6Kid
Friday 8th July 2011, 16:16
The Offender
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/davescott699/wheelbolt.jpg

TheT6Kid
Friday 8th July 2011, 16:17
The end result!
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg40/davescott699/S605.jpg

Tomcat
Friday 8th July 2011, 16:19
Very nice!, wasn't that worth all the blood sweat and tears?.

TheT6Kid
Friday 8th July 2011, 16:28
Very nice!, wasn't that worth all the blood sweat and tears?.

Yes it was! Very pleased with wheels, look like they grew on the car.
There is a lot to be said for sticking with OEM wheels, I think you would have to be careful what design of wheels you fitted on an S60. Cheers.

graemewelch
Friday 8th July 2011, 17:37
got the same on my motor but 17s. there a bugger to clean