Reverse Intercooler Piping for ME7

[Wobbly Dave]

Just wondering if anyone with a V70 or S60 can tell me if this pipe over the top of the block joins to the top of the intercooler?
http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images_products_slideshow/fullsize_5234.jpg
As I already have the same manifold - I think I can probably use generic pipe work such as seen here... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volvo-70mm-Alloy-Intercooler-Pipework-Hose-Kit-Silicon-/330408235295?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ceddd911f

to make up the bottom parts.

If the top pipe does exist then all I need to is call the breakers to get one. Well at least that is the plan.

[Wobbly Dave]

Looking online it may be that all V70s with the ME7 have side entries?

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/shop/catimages/top/thumbnails/topimg.9.jpg

[The Flying Moose]

Dave I have been thinking about this over the last few days. I wreckon if you measure the distances and where you need the 90 degree bend (to turbo) and two 45 degree bends (to intercooler) any good exhaust centre should be able to bend or weld some stainless steel or aluminium into the correct shape.

It might be worth enquiring. Its definately something Im going to look into in more detail when I get home. If I come up with anything ill let you know.

[Wobbly Dave]

To be honest my initial reaction was to do the top pipe in the same way the pre-ME7. The complexity comes with the bottom pipe - need to cut the plastic feed pipe with the sensors prior to the ETM. Bit nervous about that as there is no way back (unless I buy a spare).

Ultimately if this costs loads then it is not worth the small gain.

[smithy]

To be honest my initial reaction was to do the top pipe in the same way the pre-ME7. The complexity comes with the bottom pipe - need to cut the plastic feed pipe with the sensors prior to the ETM. Bit nervous about that as there is no way back (unless I buy a spare).

Ultimately if this costs loads then it is not worth the small gain.

use an s60r/v70r rip mate might fit better just an idea

[Chad]

I have the top intercooler hose from a 2003 S60 T5 if you want wobbly??

[jardon]

My 2002 V70 intercooler has side entry/exit like the drawing you posted - no pipework enters the top or bottom. What does yours do Dave?

[Wobbly Dave]

Mine is a top & bottom jobby.

Chad - if you could let me have the top pipe then that would be a good start.

[p fandango]

Mine is a top & bottom jobby.
i think with the top & bottom intercooler & the ME7 set-up i think its got to be the shortest pipework you can do. You need basically the same pipework as BT

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Engine%20Bay/DSCF0001-1.jpg

[Wobbly Dave]

Unfortunately not that simple as there are sensors on the plastic pipe going to the ETM. I have seen where Barnsley Bill has chopped his & that is probably where I will go. I may be able to just use a 90 degree bend hose to connect the old vertical steel pipe that goes to the bottom of the IC & connect that to the chopped feed pipe to the ETM.

[Alan M]

A good fabricator should be able to machine the required bosses then weld them to the required bend if you speak to them nicely.

[Wobbly Dave]

do you know of any?

[Wobbly Dave]

Thinking about the job - I can get a 16T hydraulic pipe bender for about £125 quid. Does upto 3" pipes.

It seems to be a popular mod and I was wondering if given that straight pipe is cheap - you can pick up a 1 metre T304 stainless for about 15 quid - would there be any interest in me making them? Certainly come out cheaper than the IPD stuff & you would' have to chop up your fuel rail cover as I have seen on certain DIY attempts.

There are univeral kits from about 70 quid on ebay - but the advantage of mine would be it would be a single pipe going over the top.

[The Flying Moose]

I would certainly be interested Dave. Pencil me in price dependant of course.

[Vikingxl]

Serious question here is this really worth the effort does a little rerouting of a pipe make that much difference. This isnt me trying to be funny or having a go but im just interested

[p fandango]

Thinking about the job - I can get a 16T hydraulic pipe bender for about £125 quid. Does upto 3" pipes.

It seems to be a popular mod and I was wondering if given that straight pipe is cheap - you can pick up a 1 metre T304 stainless for about 15 quid - would there be any interest in me making them? Certainly come out cheaper than the IPD stuff & you would' have to chop up your fuel rail cover as I have seen on certain DIY attempts.

There are univeral kits from about 70 quid on ebay - but the advantage of mine would be it would be a single pipe going over the top.
tbh Dave, not trying to spoil your idea. But having used Aluminium & Stainless the Alloy is about 1/3 of the weight. & 2nd i've looked into pipe benders myself but wasn't keen on them squashing the pipe to make the corners & you end up with a smaller diameter pipe than on the straight pieces. On the plus side you'll be able to do it alot cheaper than buying the seperate silicone joints

[Wobbly Dave]

It doesn't have to be stainless steel - alloy or alumininum or a mix will do.

There is no point me getting the press if it only gets used once. The only concern I have is the ends.

[p fandango]

The only concern I have is the ends.
you'll need silicone reducers on the ends anyway, but if your worried about them popping off i've never had one do it yet with straight cut ends (except the one's i've forgot to tighten lol)

[Alan M]

Ends of pipe can be flared on and anvil or in a vice on wood using a ball pein hammer. If the pipework is bent in a good mandrel tube bender you will have no deformation in the bends but if you use a pipe bender with former and guide the bends will have a slight deformity where they have had part of the pipe diameter reduced through being squashed slightly. A bead of weld round the ends of pipe is the best on both aluminium and steel to help with keeping the hoses on. That's if you don't have access to a pipe flaring machine for small (large in our cars case) diameter light gauge pipe.

The hydraulic pipe bender you mention, do you have a pic or model in mind? The reason I ask is that I have one and they are not for light gauge pipework. They are intended for tube which can be anything from 4mm wall thickness and up depending on pipe diameter.

[Wobbly Dave]

This was the bender I had in mind - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-16-TON-HYDRAULIC-PIPE-BENDER-UP-3-DIAMETER-/200456769470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eac278fbe

there seem to be several of the same type for about the same price.

[Alan M]

Thats for normal pipework Dave and not light gauge pipework.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16PDASeQA-M This is the type of bender which you want to use for your IC piping.

[Wobbly Dave]

Yeah - unfortunately the one you showed cost more than what my cars is worth!!

[Alan M]

Lol. They can be quite expensive. That's why you need to go to an exhaust shop/ fabricator as they usually have a good machine to use if they produce a lot of Exhausts. I would be careful though and ask to see work they produce as I know powerflow franchises in Birmingham use a cheaper bender and former and not a good quality Mandrel bender and those types do create a reduction in pipe size.

[Jamest5r]

Dave, if you can mock something up that can be copied Radtec can make if for you cheaply, ask Smithy to call them for you he know's them very well and gets thing dirt cheap from them and they are only in Cannock.