Help please pad change on V70 T5 didnt go well & now problem

[mas]

Well as per my other post , I didnt get past taking one spring clip off as my new 7mm hex snapped straight way trying to undo the 1st caliper bolt.

The problem is , I put the spring clip back on/ wheel back on tightened up wheel bolts , drove car and now there is a noise exactly like a dry spring compressing every time you press or release the brakes even at 2 mph or nearly standstill.

Something is clearly wrong in there

At first I thought I hadnt put the sprign back on correctly ? but I just took it right off and put it on again and the noise is still there.

Has anyone got any idea what i have done wrong please as I'm now stuck ?

http://www.englishmastiff.org.uk/pics/spring1.jpg

http://www.englishmastiff.org.uk/pics/spring2.jpg

http://www.englishmastiff.org.uk/pics/spring3.jpg

http://www.englishmastiff.org.uk/pics/spring4.jpg

Regards

Mas

[t5 stealth]

is the spring touching the disc ?

[cherry1809]

I was gonna say that.
Are they the right way round?

[thewoodster]

everything looks as it should do , remove the carrier along with the caliper (two 19mm bolts i think) and not only could you copper slip the rear of the pads but also have a proper look at the sliders ( the pin with the 7 mm hex head) this may also aid in the removal of them and when you rebuild dont forget to copper slip these too. hope this is of some help.

[t5 stealth]

the discs look like they have worn out quite a lot,
maybe the pad backing (metal part) is touching the disc under the caliper,
i think the only way you can check them properly is to strip it apart tho.

[mas]

Dont forget gents this noise only came after I took the spring clip off it that helps.

I too think i'll have to take the caliper off change the pads and then see. Of course with siezed 7mm hex I'm a bit stuffed at the sec.

I wonder if i have bent/ruined the spring prising it off and are they cheap and available ? so I can buy a pair.

I have now freed the top 7mm hex bolt with my replacement halfrauds bit but guess what the bottom feels just as bad so im soaking it in wd as we speek.

I have ordered a draper 7mm allen key with padded grip but it will take days to come and i need the T5 back on the road for mrs mas pronto

Thanks so far

Mas

[The Flying Moose]

The spring clips are readily available mas, Im sure any breaker or folks on here breaking a car can give you them for free, I doubt however you have damaged it as its only there to retain one side of the caliper to the bracket and cant really be bent to an unusable state unless you butcher it which you havnt by the looks of things.

You may be able to remove the whole caliper with the bracket still on as per a previous post by undoing the two 15mm bolts, the only problem is with lipped discs you will struggle doing it this way. Do you have any imperial alan keys? There will be a very close equivalent. I use a regular 7mm key and a rubber mallet.

Oh and remember to apply some copper grease to the two pins when you do eventually get them out, it should stop them getting stuck again and as they are designed to move a little grease wont do any harm.

[mas]

LO again all , I'm pleased to report that the caliper is off after more soakings of WD40. My only problem as of now is that I cant get the piston pushed back far enough.

I would be willing to buy a rewind tool but they all say they are for certain makes and all the reviews seem to say " Iused them on the 'rear' pads" of my
whatever make.

They all say " great for the rear pads on blah blah " so I'm thinnking I should be able to push back a front piston without one ?

What do you think.

Regards

Mas

[wegal]

pushing the pistons back is easy... undo the brake fluid resovouir top so that you can push the fluid back without any pressure. Then use either a g clamp or a big pair of mole grips and just squash the piston back. Its unlikely you will be able to do it with just your fingers, any vice like tool will push the piston back.... so long as you have taken the lid off the fluid res.

Hope that helps

ps dont hit the piston with a hammer or anything like that, you will only damage it

pps... another way is to put the caliper back on loosly without the pads and use a long strong screw driver levering against the disk and the piston.

[The Flying Moose]

I use a large g-clamp and a block of wood against the piston. Its likely that is the pads have been on a while it will be difficult to re-wind the piston back in.

[britten_mark]

Those discs look well shagged

[mas]

Thought it polite to post an update :wave23d:

On being unabbe to shift those pistons back ( and I relly couldnt) , I Phoned a mechanic friend and Mrs Mas was despatched to buy a very nice strong looking
6" G clamp. Another tool I now have in my new but rapidly gathering collection.
Job done wheels back on and torqued, car test driven and not a squeel or squeek.

having driven the car I have sussed it is not so much th brakes being applied but that forcing the front of the car down ( th up again of course) causing the suspension or somethign similar to creak, its the suspension or subframe or something. I am positive that the brake sare superb if I say so myself :rolleyes:

This learning curve is steep now its started but going the right way with every little job. Thanks very much , to those who offered moral support.

Regards

Mas

[Mrsmastiffs]

A job very well done :-)

[mas]

Just waiting for my payment :bullwhip:

[streaky744]

sounds to me like the squeak when you brake may be a dry joint in the suspension set up, my guess would be the drop link thats lost its grease and with the now warm weather has started to creak and will eventually start to knock,