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JimmyBurnWorld
Wednesday 4th May 2011, 19:14
165k on the clock, and the suspension is feeling every mile!

Got some of John's excellent looking polybushed 'bones waiting to go on the car, but I want to sort all the suspension out while I'm at it. To quote a fellow VPCUK member "The lumping and bumping is getting on my tits".

Going to go with Monroe Reflex shocks front and rear - Reviews? Opinions?

Did the drop links a couple of months ago (Meyle HD - Quality bits of kit, nice saturday afternoon job on the drive).

ARB's look to be in good shape, as do the springs, so they're staying.

My question is this. What other suspension bits must I/ should I change?

I know I need to do the front top mounts (clunking and knocking over uneven surfaces), but they seem to come in two bits (metal bit and rubber bit). Do I need to change both?

Is it a good idea to do the rear top mounts, or can they wait? How reliable are they?

Although I love the car, I don't want to spend excess money on it, as it's being run for work on mileage, and I've had some BIG tyre bills since getting it in October. (Blow out rear drivers. 2 months and numerous potholes later, rear toe way out, noticed by both inner edges of the rears being shredded. Plus 2 fronts sacrificed to the gods of 5 pot Dervil Torque!)

dave stew
Friday 6th May 2011, 17:44
My T5 is virtually identical mileage. I fitted 4 x Sachs Advantage dampers last year (same bump but harder rebound setting over standard and it doesn't alter the ride quality at all), kept the springs, but fitted new rubber insulation top mounts when the struts were off.

Did the wishbone bushes 2 years ago (thanks John) but would recommend poly innner bushes too as I have had an MOT notify about these this year and they are only 2 years old (the rubber ones, not the poly ones).

Also fitted new Meyle drop links last year - very good.

Finally - its worth doing the inner/outer track rods on the steering if you haven't already done them.

Hope this helps.

JimmyBurnWorld
Saturday 7th May 2011, 11:42
Is it possible to have a bit of a mix of suspension.

I regularly lug stuff for work, so I have been considering swapping the rear setup out for a Nivomat setup.

Can I mix Monroe Reflex's up front, and convert to Nivo's on the rear? Would I see any benefit?

What parts (and how much woult it be, Rufe if you're reading) do I need to accomplish this? I realise you can get the 'Chassis Kit', but that already includes a load of Front suspension parts which I wouldn't need.

v70torslanda
Saturday 7th May 2011, 17:29
Definitely change the spring top mountings, only change the top bearing plates if you suspect/know they've failed £Cost=LOADS

Nivomats are an easy swap, just require new top mounts. Cornclose fitted a complete package supplied [IIRC] by Rufe and he's very happy with it. Changing tie rods and track rod ends will help eliminate any vagueness in the steering. Did mine at 120k last year, Meyle natch . . .

Please note that I've switched to a Meyle HD rear bush on the wishbones after my own only lasted about 60k. Fronts were fine but rears were torn.

HTH

JimmyBurnWorld
Wednesday 25th May 2011, 16:49
Seen some 'rescued' nivos on the bay. Worth a punt?

I've been in touch with FRF and they can no longer get hold of the Chassis Kit mentioned in CornClose's writeup, which is a bit gutting as that would have been perfect. Apparently Volvo have discontinued the obsolete (too good a bargain) kit.

Regarding just needing new top mounts to convert. Is that all thats needed? No different nuts or bolts?

v70torslanda
Saturday 28th May 2011, 08:48
Suspension is identical with or without Nivomats. That's what makes them such a good conversion if you suddenly find yourself needing to carry loads regularly.

2nd hand? Yer pays yer money . . . Many ex-plod owners have gone that route when being faced with a bill of more than half a bag, try not to get ex-plod ones IYSWIM