New member and help with 854R 5-speed

[EBAL]

Hello, I'm new to this forum. I'm the proud and happy owner of 2 Volvo 850s, a 96 855T auto which I've owned since new and a 96 854R 5-speed which I acquired as possibly the 3rd or 4th owner 5 years ago.

The 855T auto is in excellent shape for its age, still packs plenty of pep and is a joy to drive. OTOH, the flagship model 854R 5-speed with factory 250hp was not in the best of condition when I assumed ownership but was perfect to me as a project car of sorts.

In summary, this is what I installed recently to the 854R

- newly rebuilt 19T with brand new 300/70 WG and new IPD CBV kit with the blue 10lbs spring

- "Japan" exhaust manifold from a 2000 V70R AWD

- new 3" downpipe and hi-flo cat mated to an EST 2.5" catback

- Samco turbo hoses

- silicone vacuum lines

- AC Delco TCV/BCS (replaced the stock BCS)

- serviced the PCV system

- "cleaned" the EVAP purge and check valves leading to the intake manifold


I did a compression test over the weekend and surprised to find a consistent 180psi across all cylinders +/- 2-3 psi. Vacuum at idle is
steady at 20hg. Yet despite these readings, the new hardware and stage zero tune up, the car still runs gutless.

This is what I have done to troubleshoot:

- attached a boost leak tester to the hard charge pipe right after the turbo and capped off the IC cold side hose before it goes to the TB/IAC. I also capped off the weep hole at the bottom of the IC. Result - no leaks and easily held 20psi.

- "tested" the CBV by pressurizing the vac hose from the intake manifold side. Result - no leaks and held the pressure. Not sure if this is
the right way to test the CBV without taking it off the turbo.

- "tested" the EVAP check valve by pressurizing the vac hose towards the purge valve. Result - held pressure but leaked very slowly.

- sprayed carb cleaner at the throttle body and IAC area, vacuum tree, intake mani, joints, etc. for signs of vacuum leaks. Result - no
apparent leaks since the engine didn't respond to the spray.

Yet despite these, the car does not want to get into the boost area of the gauge! I could quickly build pressure from 20hg to 0hg with part
throttle, then when I floor it the weirdest thing happens - the pressure fades while the revs shoot up yet the car doesn't go any faster. It's
like the feeling when you floor the gas while in neutral - the revs climb fast but no actual power.

What stumps be all the more is that I disconnected the vac hose from the TCV/BCS to the WG and drove around with a "closed/shut"
wastegate expecting to build boost no matter what. Well, same result - it would not go into boost - actually it would but barely past the
middle of the gauge at approx 2-3 psi. Definitely way below what one would expect from a 19T.

So, any ideas what could be the problem? I am running on the stock 250hp ECU. My ABS module has a CEL (not sure if this is even
realted) but the speedo works fine. I did play around with the cam timing via a cam tming tool - but that was a few years ago and I forgot
where the settings were. I will revisit the cam timing settings this weekend. I also haven't checked the brake booster hose as a source of leaks.

Thanks for any advise.

[Dangerous Dave]

Have you tested the intake system as a whole from the turbo inlet?

There is a check valve on the brake servo (white elbow/banjo where the vac pipe connects) which would be worth checking.

Also check the injector seals, mine were leaking badly when I tested the system.

And the small pipe that comes off the left hand side of the inlet manifold that goes to the PCV valve.

Also has the wastegate been adjusted correctly?

HTH

[T5frankie]

same sort of problem as joolz he is also stumped

[EBAL]

Have you tested the intake system as a whole from the turbo inlet?I have tested from post turbo to pre-IAC/throttle body and can hold 20psi without leaks. What would testing from the turbo inlet reveal?


There is a check valve on the brake servo (white elbow/banjo where the vac pipe connects) which would be worth checking.

Also check the injector seals, mine were leaking badly when I tested the system.Thanks, I will look into these. Are the check valves on the brake servo and EVAP system one-way valves that should never leak air? My check valve on the EVAP system leaks a wee bit of air. After a shot of carb cleaner into the valve it stops leaking but only good for a few minutes then slowly leaks again.


And the small pipe that comes off the left hand side of the inlet manifold that goes to the PCV valve.Checked, recently replaced that hose and tested no leaks.


Also has the wastegate been adjusted correctly?Have not touched the 300/70 WG as it is new. What is the procedure to test and adjust correctly for a 19T? Also, is driving around the corner with the vac hose from BCS to WG disconnected a good way to check if turbo is building boost? If yes, at approx what throttle position should it begin to create boost - i.e quarter-way, half-way or all the way?

[p fandango]

firstly running any turbo with the BCS disconnected is asking to bend your rods, especially with a 19t. Your actually lucky you are getting no boost or you'd be replacing your conrods as well

& running a 19t with the standard software thru the BCS if healthy would run the boost levels too high, the 19t actuator is alot stiffer than the factory one so run higher boost levels anyway. I would either run the turbo directly via the actuator bypassing the BCS, or use an aftermarket EBC to control it until you can get the car sorted & check the fuelling is ok

i'm running a 19t at 10psi on the stock ECU & the injectors are at 99%duty which isn't good, althou your running white injectors & i'm using oranges your ECU will still be working the injectors too hard to try & keep up with the fuel & will throw a cel light to let you know

[EBAL]

Have you tested the intake system as a whole from the turbo inlet?Forgot to ask ... does this test include the intake manifold itself? If yes, how is this done cos I think air can escape in some places such as the hose going to the PCV/PTC connector on the plastic air intake pipe pre-turbo.


firstly running any turbo with the BCS disconnected is asking to bend your rods, especially with a 19t. Your actually lucky you are getting no boost or you'd be replacing your conrods as wellThanks for your reply. I'm fully aware of the 19T's rod-bending capabilities. I tried to see if I could even get 5psi of boost with the WG hose disengaged but didn't even get past 2psi with the throttle half-way down.

I'm thinking of checking fuel and ignition next. Any suggestions on how to check these?

[p fandango]

I'm thinking of checking fuel and ignition next. Any suggestions on how to check these?
i'm looking at putting a permanent fuel pressure gauge in, connected to the end of the fuel rail. As for the ignition i'd just make sure your plugs are new, correctly gapped & rotor arm etc are in good condition

i'd read the codes as well make sure everything is clear

[Dangerous Dave]

Forgot to ask ... does this test include the intake manifold itself? If yes, how is this done cos I think air can escape in some places such as the hose going to the PCV/PTC connector on the plastic air intake pipe pre-turbo.

Yes, that would include the inlet manifold. Its quite a big thing to miss out really as there is so many connections. All you need to do is take the small pipe off the PTC valve and block it with a bolt. Another one to block is the pipe that goes from the turbo to the BCS. And thats it, all the other pipes would normally be under pressure anyway.

The check valves should not leak back, but a very small leak isn't going to cause a huge problem. The only problem is these valves from Volvo are about £23 each (last time I checked). So I just bought a metal fuel one way valve off ebay.


Also, just seen that you tested the CBV by pressurising the vac hose, this would only test the one side. The other way is to pressurise from the turbo inlet. The CBV can leak from the seal around its base, mine was the other day so some fettling was required to seal it fully.

But the only thing that can't be tested is the CBV operation. As you probably know when the pressure drops on the one side the valve opens and dumps the flow back into the intake. AFAIK there is no insitu test for that part of the valve operation.

[smithy]

tighten the actuator rod to 7.5 to 8.5 psi mate and get a remap on the car mate .i would get the car setup properly mate .speak to hamish at hlm he should be able to help and will set the car up on the rollers too with a remap for a competive price mate .sorry i dont know where you are based but he is worth a phonecall.

[TenaciousC]

Could it simply be that the actuator diaphragm has lost its stiffness and your wastegate is "flapping in the breeze"?
C

[p fandango]

Could it simply be that the actuator diaphragm has lost its stiffness and your wastegate is "flapping in the breeze"?
C
says he's already replaced the actuator

[TenaciousC]

Well either there is no wastegate acting at all, or a huge boost leak (which there isn't as you've tested that).

On my old 200sx, the actuator arm pinged off the wastegate arm, so there was no spin up of the turbo. I drove home with it on the motorway no problem. The driving experience was very much as you describe here, no boost whatsoever - drove like a normally aspirated car.

Oh and another thing that makes me thing there is no boost leak between the turbo and the inlet is that you are not getting fuel cut (on your stock ECU). If your turbo was spooling up normally, and you were losing 7+psi of air somewhere after the turbo, as soon as you open the throttle, the ECU would cut fuel injection (to prevent lean mixture), as your mass intake would be too large.

IMHO this has to be the turbo not creating boost (for some reason).

C

[EBAL]

Thanks to all for the continued help and advise.

I came across a rather clever idea to test the entire intake - cap the turbo inlet, disconnect the vac hose from the BCS/TCV that originates from the comp housing and connect it to a bike pump or air compressor. Cap off the vac hose going back to the PTC valve on the plastic air intake pipe. Optionally cap off the outlets on the manifold going to the EVAP and brake booster check valves. Then start slowly pressurizing the system and watch the boost gauge on the instrumentation.

As this is just an idea - will this work?

Aside from checking for massive boost leak, I'm going to check the fuel pressure to see if it is working up to par.

[martybelfastt5]

off topic tho im a picture seeker and cant belive im the first to say we need pic of these cars,,lol welcome

[Dangerous Dave]

Thanks to all for the continued help and advise.

I came across a rather clever idea to test the entire intake - cap the turbo inlet, disconnect the vac hose from the BCS/TCV that originates from the comp housing and connect it to a bike pump or air compressor. Cap off the vac hose going back to the PTC valve on the plastic air intake pipe. Optionally cap off the outlets on the manifold going to the EVAP and brake booster check valves. Then start slowly pressurizing the system and watch the boost gauge on the instrumentation.
That would work fine, though I would leave the evap and brake booster on at first and then cap each off individually to eliminate them. Get this test done asap to make sure that you've checked all the intake components before you move onto something else.

Let us know how u get on.

[EBAL]

That would work fine, though I would leave the evap and brake booster on at first and then cap each off individually to eliminate them. Get this test done asap to make sure that you've checked all the intake components before you move onto something else.

Let us know how u get on.Thanks. I will certainly share my experience here. This method seems much easier to set up as well as being thorough in testing the entire intake. Doesn't require a home-made boost leak tester - just an old curved turbo hose and a PVC cap to seal off the turbo inlet, and a bike pump. Can't get any simpler than that.

[EBAL]

Just wanted to post an update as it has been a while. The boost leak test put on hold because the R clutch finally gave in after 225K original kms. Just put in a new R kit and the car's come alive again. Low boost comes in quick at light throttle but seems to hit a wall at 5psi when I get close to WOT.

So I tried the boost leak test mentioned above but isolated the test to the turbo alone. I capped off all air passages on the compressor housing - turbo inlet and outlet and the nipple on the recirculating valve (CBV). Then I used a bike pump to pressurize the "sealed" system via the vac hose going to the comp housing (coming from the TCV/BCS). It will hold pressure but there is a slow leak about 1psi every 3 seconds. This is normal? Can air leak out the CHRA? I would like to figure out the leak in the turbo before proceeding to test leaks in the intake manifold area.

Thanks!

[Al115]

My problem with my T5 not building boost turned out to be (wait for it) a collapsed cat. Yours is new so I doubt that, but any chance the exhaust could be partially blocked at some point?