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View Full Version : Help needed - my 850 R manual - part 2



Giles
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:09
OK - following on from my last thread, here is a video shot tonight after replacing all vacuum hoses, all boost hoses and (stupidly) just jetwashed the engine bay ......

The converter i used cut the last minute off the video (trial version), but car does rev up on it's own every so often .....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7llGypOtoA

p fandango
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:14
you've got a number plate bulb gone mate

Giles
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:14
you've got a number plate bulb gone mate

Is that why the revs go up and the lambda light is on :)

p fandango
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:23
Is that why the revs go up and the lambda light is on :)
i'd of said yes if it was a P2, anythings possible with them lol. Your better off getting the codes read see whats up with the light, as for the revs it could be the idle control valve needs cleaning

mark_eire
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:26
nice commentary! haha
Might have just got a bit of water in around the fuses or something? seems to be running alright there now! Nice car! engine looks nice and clean after the powerwash! haha..i wouldnt be doing that again in a hurry :D

Giles
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:27
Just uploading full video (5 mins and 580MB !!!!). Will be 2 hours so will post the link tomorrow - gives a better idea the last 2 minutes ......

mark_eire
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:34
make a codereader and get ur codes..doesnt cost anything really if you have a spare 12v led lying around.

p fandango
Monday 14th March 2011, 23:36
make a codereader and get ur codes..doesnt cost anything really if you have a spare 12v led lying around.
LINK (http://www.box.net/shared/mcpljkei45)

Giles
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 06:53
and here it is in full.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixVbqWHchBM

Giles
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 07:09
make a codereader and get ur codes..doesnt cost anything really if you have a spare 12v led lying around.

I have got a codereader .... it's now locked away in my broken glovebox :(

Rnash2002
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 07:55
I would say water is the problem and will probably all dry out in time and everything going back to normal,going on the lights not working and now they are.

lance
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 09:35
Hi Giles, You need to drive it help get all that moisture out and keep her running well! It is likely to be a bit of dirt or water in the idle control valve you might find taking it a decent run could clear the code too as this has happended to me when I first bought the car. Miss Whiplash would sometime throw the lamba light and then go off again (sometimes on the way to the garage to get the code red) also plumbing in an airleak such as a dump valve could also cause the lamba light to come on.

si850r
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 18:08
the way your revs are going up and down on there own is exactly what mine is doing. Iv e stripped off and cleaned the idle control valve and cleaned the part where it meets the engine block ( cant remember what its called) and it aint made a blind bit of differance.

The Flying Moose
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 18:31
As mensioned water ingress will be the problem, I learnt the hard way after also jetwashing the engine bay of smithness's 850'R and driving to Autosport international the next day to have the car suddenly violently missfiring.

The dissy cap should be your first port of call as water easily ingress's here and leave's deposits on the rotor arm contact points, these need to be cleaned off. Also check the ignition coil pack. Its highly unlikely to be the spark plugs as they are well waterproofed by the pastic cover and rubber grommets which hold them in place.

Volvostorm
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 18:51
With the lack of dash lights etc, could also be a dodgy ignition switch, if it does it again, wriggle the key, see if that helps.

Also, with the revs, is the air-con turned on? That makes an engine surge, and put a clip on that hose.

si850r
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 19:56
i aint stealing giles thread here, but i haven t jet washed my engine bay for this fault to start..The air con isnt on either (its too bloody cold for that yet!!!!) Im goona whip the plugs out on mine to see what state there in. I ve read somewhere to gap them to.07 instead of 0.6, this will apparently make a massive difference

kee1173
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 20:35
My favourite answer can cause this and that is the Maf sensor...in giles case could be some water got into it and Si's case wortha check....but a Maf sensor or Air flow meter as some like it called causes errattic revving, or when flooring the car the revs slowly build up but dont often go past 2000 rpm....also i have had driving along at 70mph going to accelerate and nothing (if anything going slower) and then a hiccup almost like hitting the brakes then surging again....i have had 3 MAF sensors go and all with similar but diff symptons and erratic reving was one of them....not saying i am right but worth a look...

lance
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 21:19
Its recently had a brand new bosch air flow meter so it shouldnt be that.

kee1173
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 21:32
Ohh Ok Lance didnt know that....was more saying with jetwashing the engine might be another area water got in, on one of my Renault traffics that was the reason why the Maf went on that, as when it rained the bonnet seal was broke and it dripped onto my MAF, water got into it and shorted it out ....

Giles
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 21:41
Ohh Ok Lance didnt know that....was more saying with jetwashing the engine might be another area water got in, on one of my Renault traffics that was the reason why the Maf went on that, as when it rained the bonnet seal was broke and it dripped onto my MAF, water got into it and shorted it out ....

The airbox (incl MAF) was off the car when it was jetwashed........

May have got water in the dizzy cap so will dry that out later

Could be plugs as plastic cover was off......

kee1173
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 22:03
when i bought my AWD V70, i paid £500 for it as a Non Runner, it was running then he had the engine jetwashed etc and did nt run.... i looked it up and somewhere i looked said that Volvos was nt a car that like s jetwashing etc and if you have wipe out the distributor, plugs etc ...so did that with mine an it fired but run rough, although after a week it got better, within 2 it was perfect....apparently they need to dry out, this was the case with mine but wether this is right or wrong i could nt honestly say.....

Giles
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 22:08
when i bought my AWD V70, i paid £500 for it as a Non Runner, it was running then he had the engine jetwashed etc and did nt run.... i looked it up and somewhere i looked said that Volvos was nt a car that like s jetwashing etc and if you have wipe out the distributor, plugs etc ...so did that with mine an it fired but run rough, although after a week it got better, within 2 it was perfect....apparently they need to dry out, this was the case with mine but wether this is right or wrong i could nt honestly say.....

I (rather nievely) gave it the beans when i jetwashed it lol .....it started first turn of the key tho......connectors etc were full of water so i blew them off, but runs a little lumpy and revs are sporadic now and then ...... still aint driven it - too scared it will break down lol - plus i need to blank off the recirculating valve as have fitted a dump valve ..... maybe this is causing excess air?

t5 pete
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 22:26
hey giles regarding the lights not working and indicators etc i have this problem on my misses dads 850 whoch turned out to be the ignition switch he had to move they key back abit for them to work

Tomcat
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 22:28
yeah, that's a common problem, easily fixed by replacing the switch on the back of the barrell, 5 mins to fix.

kee1173
Tuesday 15th March 2011, 22:33
gonna give this key thing a go in my V70R tomorrow as i also have tracks and ABS lights come up but only every now and then, be honest i just ignore them as iwas told was a common fault on Volvos plus just had an MOT and every thing works ok....mind you just had Lambda light come on the other day when i booted her the light came on but would nt go off...just fitted a cone filter so poss that, today light has gone out but now i am running her on super unleaded now which i was nt, so see how these things go and see if light stays out.....

Giles
Saturday 19th March 2011, 19:14
OK guys......all boost hoses replaced, all vacuum hoses replaced......lambda light now not present ;)

And yes, tracs & abs lights go out if i turn the key a fraction of a mm ;)

Seems sluggish up til 4,000 rpm tho and 5th gear from 60 seems to take forever to get any faster? Have adjusted the actuator arm (although this did not need doing). Maybe the turbo has gone? Averaging 25mpg even when flooring it now and again.

Will the dump valve make it go slower?

Giles
Saturday 19th March 2011, 19:16
OK guys......all boost hoses replaced, all vacuum hoses replaced......lambda light now not present ;)

And yes, tracs & abs lights go out if i turn the key a fraction of a mm ;)

Seems sluggish up til 4,000 rpm tho and 5th gear from 60 seems to take forever to get any faster? Have adjusted the actuator arm (although this did not need doing). Maybe the turbo has gone? Averaging 25mpg even when flooring it now and again.

Will the dump valve make it go slower?

edit:

when i say 'sluggish', it's rapid when in the right gear ..... ie 1st, 2nd 3rd etc.... it's when it's doing about 40 in 3rd etc (low revs) it seems sluggish .... maybe i am just used to an auto's kickdown?

smithy
Saturday 19th March 2011, 20:39
edit:

when i say 'sluggish', it's rapid when in the right gear ..... ie 1st, 2nd 3rd etc.... it's when it's doing about 40 in 3rd etc (low revs) it seems sluggish .... maybe i am just used to an auto's kickdown?

the car should go like arse when further up the rev range mate did you disconnect the recirc valve when you fitted dump valve mate if so check for split round tb pipe mate by the idiol control pipe mate

Giles
Saturday 19th March 2011, 20:44
the car should go like arse when further up the rev range mate did you disconnect the recirc valve when you fitted dump valve mate if so check for split round tb pipe mate by the idiol control pipe mate

It goes really well from about 4,500 rpm

I bought a blanking plate off ebay (£26) and have fitted that. i connected the dump valve vac hose to the same nipple on inlet manifold that the recirc valve was. It's great from 4,500, and is good before that, just thought the turbo should kick in about 2,500?

lance
Monday 21st March 2011, 09:21
Yeap turbo should kick in around 2400 rpm aprox 60 mph by 70 MPH in 5th with foot to the floor the boost gauge was 4/5- 5/6th of the white.

volvokid
Monday 21st March 2011, 09:45
The airbox (incl MAF) was off the car when it was jetwashed........

May have got water in the dizzy cap so will dry that out later

Could be plugs as plastic cover was off......

So two of the most important parts of your cars engine were exposed when you power washed your engine.

No wonder no one believes me when i tell them its perfectly safe to power wash an engine bay when you read stories like this.

Water and electrics don't mix hence why your spark plugs should be covered.

Any electrical component that isn't sealed with an o-ring or a gasket should be covered either with its original cover or a bag.... and never start blasting water at funny angles always hold your lance straight down and at its lowest pressure.

Giles
Monday 21st March 2011, 09:46
Yeap turbo should kick in around 2400 rpm aprox 60 mph by 70 MPH in 5th with foot to the floor the boost gauge was 4/5- 5/6th of the white.

hmm......maybe the turbo (or something else) is gone then as only seems to be rapid when flooring it from 0 in all the gears. Hits 100mph in no time, but lower revs (3rd, 4th & 5th) takes ages to pull through the rev range........70mph in 5th takes it's time to climb any higher

There is also a knocking from what sounds like the bottom end when the engine gets warm - having it looked at by Volvo this week so should know more later this week.

Giles
Monday 21st March 2011, 09:49
So two of the most important parts of your cars engine were exposed when you power washed your engine.

No wonder no one believes me when i tell them its perfectly safe to power wash an engine bay when you read stories like this.

Water and electrics don't mix hence why your spark plugs should be covered.

Any electrical component that isn't sealed with an o-ring or a gasket should be covered either with its original cover or a bag.... and never start blasting water at funny angles always hold your lance straight down and at its lowest pressure.

My car was fine and not affected by water in the end - it was the ignition switch being in the wrong place that caused the dodgy electrical issues. So, my excessive jetwashing was not the cause of the above issues.

volvokid
Monday 21st March 2011, 09:54
My car was fine and not affected by water in the end - it was the ignition switch being in the wrong place that caused the dodgy electrical issues. So, my excessive jetwashing was not the cause of the above issues.

Yes but it could have easily done damage

lance
Monday 21st March 2011, 10:07
hmm......maybe the turbo (or something else) is gone then as only seems to be rapid when flooring it from 0 in all the gears. Hits 100mph in no time, but lower revs (3rd, 4th & 5th) takes ages to pull through the rev range........70mph in 5th takes it's time to climb any higher

There is also a knocking from what sounds like the bottom end when the engine gets warm - having it looked at by Volvo this week so should know more later this week.

I havent heard any bottom end knocking when warm and she was pulling fine from 2400 rpm and 3000 rpm aprox 75 ish she was reasnobly quick I found the power tailing off around 5-5500 which is were it should be on a 16T.

Giles
Monday 21st March 2011, 10:16
I havent heard any bottom end knocking when warm and she was pulling fine from 2400 rpm and 3000 rpm aprox 75 ish she was reasnobly quick I found the power tailing off around 5-5500 which is were it should be on a 16T.

Strange as i have found the power pulls all the way to 6,000 - 6,500 but doesn't start til around 4,000 - 4,500 ....... not sure what's changed then?

Jimmie
Monday 21st March 2011, 10:35
Any car will start knocking if it has been booted hard for long periods,have you been doing that.
A 100 mph all the time is not good either
Drive normal and an engine will run a long time even if its knocking.

lance
Monday 21st March 2011, 10:36
Yeah it would pull at the top end but the best pull would be lower down it would be slowish till 2250-2500 then it picks up by going like a goodun untill tailing off about 5-5500 ish the boost drops from peak about here too. I doubt you would notice it much 1st and 2nd as there short gears and they always pull well to the redline and above but 3rd 4th 5th it should go well strong from 2400-5500 ish rpm

How far is the boost gauge going into the white it should be about atleast 3/4 from 2500on full throttle

Giles
Monday 21st March 2011, 10:42
Yeah it would pull at the top end but the best pull would be lower down it would be slowish till 2250-2500 then it picks up by going like a goodun untill tailing off about 5-5500 ish the boost drops from peak about here too. I doubt you would notice it much 1st and 2nd as there short gears and they always pull well to the redline and above but 3rd 4th 5th it should go well strong from 2400-5500 ish rpm

How far is the boost gauge going into the white it should be about atleast 3/4 from 2500on full throttle

hmm.....doesn't start going well until 4,000 - 4,500 in 3rd, 4th & 5th ....boost gauge goes about halfway to 3/4 of the white.

As to driving hard, not really - only had it about a day on the road and booted it once. My dad didn't really notice the 'knocking' and my brother said it sounded more like loose plastic.......

Jimmie
Monday 21st March 2011, 10:48
Is it the proper oil thats in the engine as it sometimes not a good idea to change types/brands.
You are maybe looking for faults which is not a good idea as you will alway find something with mechanical items.

lance
Monday 21st March 2011, 11:15
Dump the dump valve, its a built in air leak and the 16t already has a recirculation valve find a bit of private road and try 3rd, 4th and 5th gear boost, I would try them from about 2k rpm flooring knowing that it A it will be slow untill about 2400/2500 rpm but B should spool up and be boosting very hard by 3-3,5k rpm.
Thats the only thing different other than the new hosing which should be loads better after that split hose!
Is the lamba light off now!

lance
Monday 21st March 2011, 11:19
Is it the proper oil thats in the engine as it sometimes not a good idea to change types/brands.
You are maybe looking for faults which is not a good idea as you will alway find something with mechanical items.

I think DPA put valvoline 10/40 W semi synthetic in, but you could go thinner but Giles would need to check it more often!

Giles
Monday 21st March 2011, 11:35
Dump the dump valve, its a built in air leak and the 16t already has a recirculation valve find a bit of private road and try 3rd, 4th and 5th gear boost, I would try them from about 2k rpm flooring knowing that it A it will be slow untill about 2400/2500 rpm but B should spool up and be boosting very hard by 3-3,5k rpm.
Thats the only thing different other than the new hosing which should be loads better after that split hose!
Is the lamba light off now!

I changed all the hoses (boost & vacuum). Light was still on. Pulled ecu and light went off. Has stayed off now for about 80 miles so looking good.
Bit annoyed at having to remove the dump valve but suppose it’s worth a go. Be better if i did another video showing the car running and driving. May do that at some stage.

Jimmie
Monday 21st March 2011, 11:50
Is your exhauast ok as that can cause lamba issues.

Giles
Monday 21st March 2011, 20:37
Is your exhauast ok as that can cause lamba issues.

Exhaust is fine and lamda light is off......just spent the last 10 minutes of daylight trying to get the damned recirc valve cover back on - always one dodgy inaccessible bolt lol - anyway, most back on, just need to drop the 10mm spanner a few more times onto the floor and wedged even more inaccessibly in the engine bay then it will be tight. kids think my car is called a 'f****** piece of ****' from all the shouting but hey hoo.

Will trial the recirc valve back on but dont see how this will bring the boost down by 2,000rpm but you never know........

Will advise tomorrow night hopefully.......

si850r
Monday 21st March 2011, 20:52
just a thought mate, is the actuator set up right? have you tried tightening it up?
Have a look on your gauge as to where it is boosting and what rev..Tighten it and take it for a spin..Just make sure you know where it was before you adjust it .

Giles
Monday 21st March 2011, 20:54
just a thought mate, is the actuator set up right? have you tried tightening it up?
Have a look on your gauge as to where it is boosting and what rev..Tighten it and take it for a spin..Just make sure you know where it was before you adjust it .

I took it off saturday ..... was half a moon crescent showing, but did it one more 1/2 turn anyway....... made no difference ...... needle goes about 3/4 into the white ...... your red one goes off the scale if i remember correctly?

si850r
Monday 21st March 2011, 20:57
nah nah mate....mines about 3/4...but i put that mbc on...I adjusted it and it flew off the scale but i turned it down again so its about a 1/3 over the white till i get that problem sorted out....

Santa
Monday 21st March 2011, 21:26
nah nah mate....mines about 3/4...but i put that mbc on...I adjusted it and it flew off the scale but i turned it down again so its about a 1/3 over the white till i get that problem sorted out....

Good to hear the MBC is working as intended

si850r
Monday 21st March 2011, 22:34
Good to hear the MBC is working as intended


yeah cheers mate, it was good to meet you and duane ....put a face to a name and all that....

Giles
Saturday 26th March 2011, 12:16
Think we (smithy rather :) ) has found the issue....bit of mechanics and advice over the phone and we have found the issue......

.....actuator is ££££ed.....just wound it all the way in and could still easily pull the rod over the pin....and it boosts to just under halfway....so, I am after a 19T actuator if anyone knows where to get one from? New preferrably

Well chuffed to have found the issue and thanks very much Smithy for your step-by-step guide over the phone on what to do......really appreciated...... :)

Giles
Saturday 26th March 2011, 20:52
And now it's boosting 3/4 :) - actuator wound right in, so will do until I can get another, working one. Well chuffed - just caned the life out of it and it flies and the M59 gearbox is ace - the grip is fantastic! Can't wait to get to full boost ;)

si850r
Saturday 26th March 2011, 21:27
glad your getting it sorted mate

Giles
Saturday 26th March 2011, 21:31
glad your getting it sorted mate

oh yes.....even at 3/4 boost it is now, well, i am chuffed.

Just took it for a test…….OMG……pretty pretty nippy, heaps of pull and hits 120 in no time…….running about 12psi and we are taking it to 18psi when the new actuator and MBC come. What you running at? Did you get the gasket off?

The M59 LSD (ok, viscous coupling Duane) gearbox is amazing! Really weird but nice feeling to feel it dishing out the power across the front wheels……..

Bout time too as I got caned by a 118D bmw last week…….hope he is going my way in 2 weeks time :)

si850r
Saturday 26th March 2011, 21:49
yeah got it off mate..it was the right gasket.but what they had done was rip it putting it on. I took some pics but to be honest they didnt come out that good. Its just running lumpy at the mo...pedro reckons it will need some miles put on it for the ecu to get the air /fuel mix right again after running so long with the faulty gasket. I changed the front brake pads to....Fingers crossed its going to sort itself out, if not i will go to hlm and get the codes read,

Giles
Saturday 26th March 2011, 21:55
yeah got it off mate..it was the right gasket.but what they had done was rip it putting it on. I took some pics but to be honest they didnt come out that good. Its just running lumpy at the mo...pedro reckons it will need some miles put on it for the ecu to get the air /fuel mix right again after running so long with the faulty gasket. I changed the front brake pads to....Fingers crossed its going to sort itself out, if not i will go to hlm and get the codes read,

Glad to hear it. I did doubt it was the wrong one tbh.

You sure your actuator is ok? I thought I had a leak and after all this and a 2 sec call to Smithy ( :) ) sussed it was the actuator......if you're only getting 3/4 boost, in my recent findings, i would be inclined to check the actuator.......you need to wind it in until the needle hits the end of the scale or your gauge reads 18psi.

But, pull the ecu, thrash it about and see what it's like......then check the actuator

Giles
Saturday 26th March 2011, 21:57
i got a code reader if you have a glovebox drill lol

Giles
Saturday 26th March 2011, 21:58
May have to change my avatar pic now that it's coming together at last ......

smithy
Saturday 26th March 2011, 22:22
Think we (smithy rather :) ) has found the issue....bit of mechanics and advice over the phone and we have found the issue......

.....actuator is ££££ed.....just wound it all the way in and could still easily pull the rod over the pin....and it boosts to just under halfway....so, I am after a 19T actuator if anyone knows where to get one from? New preferrably

Well chuffed to have found the issue and thanks very much Smithy for your step-by-step guide over the phone on what to do......really appreciated...... :)

im glad i could help mate ,now when you get your other new bits then your car will really fly mate ,speak soon