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p fandango
Friday 15th October 2010, 00:50
with the pump now moved to the boot i need to sort out the new longer pipes. One pipe is a high-pressure one which i need to get specially made, but the other is only a low pressure pipe to return the fluid. Went to Pirtek & they wanted £35 for 5metres which i thought was way over the top, ebay have got rubber pipes listed as fuel/oil/air but not sure if they'll be ok with power steering fluid (& only £2 a metre) so does anyone know if it'll be ok

so basically, is this suitable for power steering fluid LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10mm-3-8-ID-RUBBER-OIL-AIR-LINE-TUBING-HOSE-1-METRE-/270630139098?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f02d034da)

many thanks Duane

streaky744
Friday 15th October 2010, 23:50
how does the pump work in the boot? that must be a serious drive belt to reach that.

did you not consider that the car will be driveable with no power steering connected? just heavy for parking.

anyway to answer your question, for the high pressure line i would get reinforced piping made up and if it runs under the car consider armouring it for protection, but kind of defeats your weight loss programme.

the return pipe is a few ways you can do it. fuel type pipe will be plenty good enough for the job. but could i suggest and smarter looking option, in my race cars i run copper pipe in place of rubber where i can. why not use small length of rubber each end use a small bore copper pipe (10mm) for the return through the car. you can shape the pipe to run neatly and fix it down with P clips, then polish the copper pipe to make it look smart.

not as cheap maybe as rubber unless you know any plumbers who can help you out but looks a lot more proffesional in my opinion and also the copper pipe will not degrade or split once in place and fixed.

for added saftey why not also double up on jubilee clips either end to secure the rubber hose.

p fandango
Saturday 16th October 2010, 00:04
how does the pump work in the boot? that must be a serious drive belt to reach that.

did you not consider that the car will be driveable with no power steering connected? just heavy for parking.

anyway to answer your question, for the high pressure line i would get reinforced piping made up and if it runs under the car consider armouring it for protection, but kind of defeats your weight loss programme.

the return pipe is a few ways you can do it. fuel type pipe will be plenty good enough for the job. but could i suggest and smarter looking option, in my race cars i run copper pipe in place of rubber where i can. why not use small length of rubber each end use a small bore copper pipe (10mm) for the return through the car. you can shape the pipe to run neatly and fix it down with P clips, then polish the copper pipe to make it look smart.

not as cheap maybe as rubber unless you know any plumbers who can help you out but looks a lot more proffesional in my opinion and also the copper pipe will not degrade or split once in place and fixed.

for added saftey why not also double up on jubilee clips either end to secure the rubber hose.
i'm using an electric pump off a Saxo, it going on a switch so can be turned off to cut on power draw

i've got to run the coolant pipes thru the inside as well so i'll run them altogether & protect them with metal trunking. I was just worried if the power steering fluid would eat thru the rubber. I've already got someone in hydraulics to make the high pressure line up once i sort out how long it needs to be

streaky744
Saturday 16th October 2010, 00:14
we also run radiators in the back of race cars at local track, when you have it all fitted make sure header tank is very high to bleed it all. fill top hose from back of car till it comes out of rad then connect pipe, gives less of an air lock.

and also we found that nissan primera radiators are huge, come with twin fans and have a filler cap on them which makes bleeding even easier. just blank of the pipe that normally connects to bottom of header bottle and the small one to the top.

just idea's for you

p fandango
Saturday 16th October 2010, 00:22
i've simply moved the original Volvo radiator to the back, i think i'll need to add either another expansion bottle to back or atleast a decent bleed point. Thats the power steering pump on the left

http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/5552/33782159159810576911103.jpg

streaky744
Saturday 16th October 2010, 00:28
looks cool but have to ask why?

you could have done pump under bonnet at the front and the rad i guess was doing no harm where it was, or you got a massive IC planned and need the room?

p fandango
Saturday 16th October 2010, 00:49
looks cool but have to ask why?

you could have done pump under bonnet at the front and the rad i guess was doing no harm where it was, or you got a massive IC planned and need the room?
just to try & move some of the weight back to balance it out a bit, also makes the engine bay alot less uncluttered

nobananas
Saturday 16th October 2010, 14:56
Could you not make the return out of copper fuel line or similar then just have your connections in rubber ?

p fandango
Saturday 16th October 2010, 15:21
Could you not make the return out of copper fuel line or similar then just have your connections in rubber ?
yeh thats what Streaky has suggested as well. Inless the copper is perfectly straight & laid out properly i think it looks a bit naff tho tbh

nobananas
Saturday 16th October 2010, 15:22
The site in your linky pedro is the same place I used for some rubber hose to plumb my catch tank in. My stuff though was listed as diesel/oil hose for marine use IIRC, so far it's been fine.

p fandango
Saturday 16th October 2010, 15:25
The site in your linky pedro is the same place I used for some rubber hose to plumb my catch tank in. My stuff though was listed as diesel/oil hose for marine use IIRC, so far it's been fine.
i think i've got the same seller saved for their silicone hoses as well, think he's the cheapest on fleabay. I know power steering fluid strips paint, i'm just unsure how much it attacks rubber

nobananas
Saturday 16th October 2010, 15:29
yeh thats what Streaky has suggested as well. Inless the copper is perfectly straight & laid out properly i think it looks a bit naff tho tbh

Make sure you do it right then LOL !. At least you have less chance of it chaffing through anywhere on its run. I'm not sure what diameter you're needing but there is also pex pipe which will take oil okay (think it's copper cored anyway).

nobananas
Saturday 16th October 2010, 15:31
i think i've got the same seller saved for their silicone hoses as well, think he's the cheapest on fleabay. I know power steering fluid strips paint, i'm just unsure how much it attacks rubber

That's why you might be better using metal tubing over such a long run, at least that way you only need keep a watch on the unions (and if it's run through the motor you won't run the chance of flooding it with psf if it does attack it !)

p fandango
Saturday 16th October 2010, 16:16
Make sure you do it right then LOL !. At least you have less chance of it chaffing through anywhere on its run. I'm not sure what diameter you're needing but there is also pex pipe which will take oil okay (think it's copper cored anyway).


That's why you might be better using metal tubing over such a long run, at least that way you only need keep a watch on the unions (and if it's run through the motor you won't run the chance of flooding it with psf if it does attack it !)
not sure what diameter i need myself tbh, i took off the original while i went shopping yest & can't remember where i put it lol. I'll have to measure the port on the pump. Might look about doing it in copper, certainly not paying the Pirtek prices

streaky744
Saturday 16th October 2010, 22:32
just use 10mm inside diam copper pipe and if you run in flush down the inner sill and secure with p clips will look good. if its good enough for most curcuit racers up to btcc standard and above if be fine for BT.

you could also use a larger bore copper pipe for the pressure side of it with good unions on it.

with the distance it has to travel the copper pipe would not give internal flex so no pressure would be lost from the system , where as a small amount would be with rubber.

if you want weight moved to the rear to balance things out get a small fuel tank and remote pump to fuel the car. you be shocked what the orginal fuel tank weighs. it could be re fitted for road use but small alloy fuel tank which holds up to 10 ltrs more than enough for a 1/4 mile dash.