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wegal
Monday 16th August 2010, 15:35
How do i get it ?

I love the noise of turbo chatter on lift off, but dont know how to get it... any ideas ?

ME9 2006 model S60 T5

p fandango
Monday 16th August 2010, 15:37
remove the recirc valve, not sure if the newer engine management will like it or not tho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmNucK8712M
sorry, i had too lol

Liddo
Monday 16th August 2010, 15:49
LOL Pedro, that sounds brilliant. Is it easy to get off (and back on again if the missus can stand it ;) )

Show us a "How to" ;)

Tim Williams
Monday 16th August 2010, 16:01
In time it will cause extra wear on the turbo bearings. The noise is the turbo stalling and nothing to do with the wastegate.

t5_monkey
Monday 16th August 2010, 17:07
get a K&N and a recirc dumpvalve.

You can hear my blow off 500 meters away on the dragstrip apparently, and I'm not running anything other than the Forge stock replacement item.

p fandango
Monday 16th August 2010, 17:24
LOL Pedro, that sounds brilliant. Is it easy to get off (and back on again if the missus can stand it ;) )

Show us a "How to" ;)
lol i cheated mate & fitted the recirc blanking plate to my new turbo before it was fitted so very easy. I've read it can be done with the turbo in place but you need to use a 10mm rachet spanner & strenghened knuckle, they will get scraped lol

p fandango
Monday 16th August 2010, 17:27
get a K&N and a recirc dumpvalve.

You can hear my blow off 500 meters away on the dragstrip apparently, and I'm not running anything other than the Forge stock replacement item.
aftermarket filters do make the recirc valve sound louder, not quite as good as the full blanking plate tho i think

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62KLmwDyzAw
standard recirc valve & Pipercross cone filter

thebadger
Monday 16th August 2010, 18:35
The blanking plate replaces the standard recirc valve.

This is located on the front of the turbo near the top.

To see it clearly & to do an easy removal you should remove the top IC pipe (big one over the top of the engine) and it's also advisable to remove the intake air hose as this get's in your way.

Tools needed.....

2 of them, that's all. A hose driver (6/7mm flexi hose drivers are available online & from halfrauds) and a 10mm ratcheting head spanner (B&Q for >£5).

The top two bolts are easy to remove, the bottom one is a tricky one.

Major issue is that the bolts, which are on the turbo, are far too short.

I urge you to get new bolts first as the top left bolt (as you look at the front of the car) will strip the thread out of the turbo. Forge give you replacements with the recirc they do, however these are allen bolts.

You can buy the allen bolts off ebay for <£3... Linky (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330142125732&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

I wouldn't say it's a dead easy job, but with practice you could easily do it within 30 mins.

I also reccomend that you get some bullet connector blanking plugs (small plastic caps for bullet sockets) as they work well to plug the vac hoses when you're not using them. :)

claymore
Monday 16th August 2010, 18:54
Found is a lot easyer to get at the bottom bolt from underneath.
Step 1
Take off the vac pipes to the recirc valve and waist gate, also undo the clip for the boost pipe and move it out of the way
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/claymore2k/P1112_14-02-10.jpg
Step 2
next slacken the two 10mm bolts using a ratchet spanner.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/claymore2k/P1113_14-02-10.jpg
step 3
next raise the car (following all safety precautions) and from underneath the car, remove this bolt.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/claymore2k/P112301_14-02-10.jpg
Step 4
Once you've got the bottom bolt out, you can remove the two that you slackened earlier
and there you go.