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edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 11:06
I have a 94 855 turbo. when the rpm hit around 3000 to 4000, it seems don't want to go any higher and engine sounds like one of the cylinder not working and the rpm will raise very slow as well as the speed. I also notice the idle is not stable when at red light (not noticeable by looking at the rpm but I can feel the jerk). It is more noticeable when a/c is on. Everything had been check incl leak, plugs and so on but nothing found. Fuel filter has been changed and throttle body has been clean. My mechanic suggests it could be a plug cat. It all happen after I shorten the wastegate and even restore it to the orig setting doesn't change except the problem might delay to 4000 rpm. Other than that the car has lots of power and derives very smooth if I take it easy and keep running in low rpm. I have search all the forum I know and noone seems to have this problem. Also this is very hard for me to explain, hope you guys understand what I am trying to say. Thanks.

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 11:07
Hello

And

:welcome:

Nice to see you could make it.

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 11:22
Right this still sound like "Overboost".

I would be inclined to advise you to go and take a few more turns of the Waste Gate Actuator, it sound like you could have disturbed something when you increased the pre-tension.

But I do have a few question which will help me further.

1) What did your stock boost gauge go up to before you adjusted the W/G ?

2) Did the fault appear straight after you made the adjustment ?

3) How many turns of adjustment did you make ?

4) What does your boost gauge show currently ?

That will do for now, if you could answer those please then we can go from there :wink:

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 11:43
Thanks Steve. Pls see answer below

I would be inclined to advise you to go and take a few more turns of the Waste Gate Actuator, it sound like you could have disturbed something when you increased the pre-tension.
edwingsiu reply: I have lose the tension to max and the only different is the problem comes back at higher rpm instead of 3000.


But I do have a few question which will help me further.

1) What did your stock boost gauge go up to before you adjusted the W/G ?
edwingsiu reply: not sure since i had a hose leak and i think it was about 1/4 or less over the white.

2) Did the fault appear straight after you made the adjustment ?
Edwingsiu reply: no it did not. that's why i have a feeling it was not cause by the adjustment except if i ever bended the rod.

3) How many turns of adjustment did you make ?
edwingsiu reply: since i have forgot the orig setting. I have decide to turn it to the point where i can drop it to the pin and assume it was base. I used the football pump and pump it to about 6 psi (which was suggested by someone i forgot who and where that I can set it between 6 to 8 psi) and it works out to about 12 turns from where I so call base setting. and the result was great.

4) What does your boost gauge show currently ?
edwingsiu reply: If I floor it, it will go as high as 3/4 of the white. otherwise, it will run at around 1/4 of the white at about 2500 to 3000 rpm. If I adj the rod to base, it will run at around 1/4 of the white at 3000 rpm.

Everything is pretty well stock on my car. The only thing i did was the wastegate and holes in the air box. Since I don't want to spend too much money on performance stuffs and where I live don't have too many motorway, I smooth and low end power can make me happy. that's why i just want to do a little trick in the econ way.

Hope this is enough infor for you. thanks.

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 12:05
Hmmmm

Right sound like you could have a bad vac leak.

From stock the boost gauge should reach 3/4 into the white area. Which is around the 9 psi stock boost level, the end of the white area is around 14.5 (1.0 Bar) and this is also the level at which the stock ECU will cut the ignition in the event of "Overboost".

So to start with your car wasn't right or your gauge had a major leak ?

Now you estimated 12 turns on the WG this is way out. Most end up with 2 or 4 and some 6 but 12 :eek: we have another problem.

Now trying to sort this in my head I keep thinking, your WG is now too loose and cant build boost and the turbo could be going into overspin, and secondly you have a bad vac leak.

Have another quick look at your pipes and see if you can find anything obvious. Also check the connections to the BCS and if you get the chance pop down to a garage that can hook up a calibrated boost gauge, if you dont want to invest in one, but if your playing with boost for 25 they are well worth it and could save your rods, which by the way I dont believe you've bent as you would have mentioned a major ticking sound over and above that of the injectors and the idle control valve.

I'm sure this is just somthing silly and am confident now its a vac leak.

Steve

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:04
did i see a link somewhere to a post on how and what to check for air leaks?

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:17
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/vacuum_lines.htm

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:21
But its better here (http://www.volvot5.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=2767#post2767)

:wink:

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:24
cheers thats the one...

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:27
excuse my complete lack of mechanical knowledge here but on the big pipe coming from the turbo (my 97 t5)there are two rubber nipples that come off.
On mine one is split. What are they?

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:27
cheers thats the one...

No need for the thanks, its all in a days work for the "Volvo T5 Forum Performance Guru Administrator" :wink:

And have a nice day :rainfro:

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:33
excuse my complete lack of mechanical knowledge here but on the big pipe coming from the turbo (my 97 t5)there are two rubber nipples that come off.
On mine one is split. What are they?


As in whats shown in this pic ?

http://www.volvospeed.com/Pics/repairpics/afterjun00/TurboHoseR.jpg

If so they both go to the Crank Case Oil Separator Canistor which is housed under the intake manifoid.

You really need to fix the split or replace the part.

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:38
no they are just like little caps - half the size of a pen lid . Theres one at the top and one at the bottom. They slide off to reveal a hole.
Sorry not very helpful I know

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:39
no they are just like little caps - half the size of a pen lid . Theres one at the top and one at the bottom. They slide off to reveal a hole.
Sorry not very helpful I know

So they are holes capped off by a little nipple and one has split ?

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:46
yep one is split its just hanging on there

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:50
yep one is split its just hanging on there

They must be aux holes for when that tubes used on a different model, I will try to find out exact. Just ensure the hole is still blocked and you'll be fine.

I will keep you posted thou :wink:

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 13:57
was just having a poke around at lunch time , think I might go pick up the haynes manual or something and try and get my head around the layout a bit all looks a bit confusing at the moment :shifty:

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 14:00
was just having a poke around at lunch time , think I might go pick up the haynes manual or something and try and get my head around the layout a bit all looks a bit confusing at the moment :shifty:

LOL

Is simple one you know what your looking at :wink:

Get a Haynes its quite good one for the T5's :wink:

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 15:47
bit embarrassed to admit this ..........
but just looked again at the "Turbo" ...
um ...... found the air filter inside it :hidesbehi
really do need that haynes manual !

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 15:51
bit embarrassed to admit this ..........
but just looked again at the "Turbo" ...
um ...... found the air filter inside it :hidesbehi
really do need that haynes manual !

LMAO

The box that has "Turbo" writen on it, you thought that was the turbo :eek:

ROTH CMEY

Nice try but sorry, no it the air filter :wink:

fireplums
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 16:11
yep what a muppet! :)

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 16:13
yep what a muppet! :)

LOL

Just for your information the turbo is mounted (has to be) on the exhaust mainifold at the back of the engine :wink:

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 16:50
took the car for another drive tonight. notice the problem start when the turbo guage at half way of the white. Therefore, it is not base on over 3000rpm or not. It is depense on how soon it will reach half of the white. I also notice there is oil below the big pipe going into the turbo (not sure what that is I think I read somewhere it is something like a bleed valve) Not sure if my problem cause by oil leak from there.
Anyway, I will try to check the electric valve and intercooler hose as suggested by Steve.

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 16:55
took the car for another drive tonight. notice the problem start when the turbo guage at half way of the white. Therefore, it is not base on over 3000rpm or not. It is depense on how soon it will reach half of the white. I also notice there is oil below the big pipe going into the turbo (not sure what that is I think I read somewhere it is something like a bleed valve) Not sure if my problem cause by oil leak from there.
Anyway, I will try to check the electric valve and intercooler hose as suggested by Steve.

What this hose that in this pic ?

http://www.volvospeed.com/Pics/repairpics/afterjun00/TurboHoseR.jpg

The 2 pipes you see going to it are the already mentioned Crank Case Oil Separator Canistor which is housed under the intake manifoid. These have a habit of getting blocked and end up throwing oil into the intake system.

And just for the other he means the BCS when he mentioned the electric valve :wink:

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:13
sorry, this is not what i am talking about. it is the big metal pipe going from the front of the vehicle to the turbo (next to the wastgate actuator) and right below the end of the pipe there is some kind of valve which can be remove as i saw it from somewhere before someone took it out and seal the hole with a metal plate and made a holeon the big hose and put something in that hole. I know you also have it on your your car as well as I saw the picture you posted before. you know that big thing like a bicycle horn. Anyway, it might be oil came out from the hose as it wasn't that tight. Sorry, I am not a machanic to explain it to you in a proper way.

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:16
i think it is a dump valve

Murphy
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:20
Turbo diagram

http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/gfx/turbo_diagram.jpg

B5234 engine diagram (n/a volvo 5 pot)

http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/all_gifs/Turbo%20page%20gifs/B5254.jpg

How a turbo works:

http://www.cjbyron.com/bigeng1.jpg

What Is a Turbocharger?
Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine (see How Car Engines Work for a description of airflow in a normal engine). The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the charging. This can significantly improve the power-to-weight ratio for the engine (see How Horsepower Works for details).

In order to achieve this boost, the turbocharger uses the exhaust flow from the engine to spin a turbine, which in turn spins an air pump. The turbine in the turbocharger spins at speeds of up to 150,000 rotations per minute (rpm) -- that's about 30 times faster than most car engines can go. And since it is hooked up to the exhaust, the temperatures in the turbine are also very high.

Turbochargers allow an engine to burn more fuel and air by packing more into the existing cylinders. The typical boost provided by a turbocharger is 6 to 8 pounds per square inch (psi). Since normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, you can see that you are getting about 50 percent more air into the engine. Therefore, you would expect to get 50 percent more power. It's not perfectly efficient, so you might get a 30- to 40-percent improvement instead.

One cause of the inefficiency comes from the fact that the power to spin the turbine is not free. Having a turbine in the exhaust flow increases the restriction in the exhaust. This means that on the exhaust stroke, the engine has to push against a higher back-pressure. This subtracts a little bit of power from the cylinders that are firing at the same time.


http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/turbo.jpg

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:21
sorry, this is not what i am talking about. it is the big metal pipe going from the front of the vehicle to the turbo (next to the wastgate actuator) and right below the end of the pipe there is some kind of valve which can be remove as i saw it from somewhere before someone took it out and seal the hole with a metal plate and made a holeon the big hose and put something in that hole. I know you also have it on your your car as well as I saw the picture you posted before. you know that big thing like a bicycle horn. Anyway, it might be oil came out from the hose as it wasn't that tight. Sorry, I am not a machanic to explain it to you in a proper way.

Ahh that the CBV. I've removed mine and fitted a BOV and pul a blanking plate where the CBV was.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/639000-639999/639353_18_full.jpg

BOV

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/639000-639999/639353_17_full.jpg

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:29
yes, CBV. what is it stand for anyway. yes it has oil but doesn't look like is new. therfore not sure if it was leaking or from the hose. if it was the CBV, was it a reason of the problem i have?

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:30
Turbo diagram

http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/gfx/turbo_diagram.jpg

B5234 engine diagram (n/a volvo 5 pot)

http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/all_gifs/Turbo%20page%20gifs/B5254.jpg

How a turbo works:

http://www.cjbyron.com/bigeng1.jpg

What Is a Turbocharger?
Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine (see How Car Engines Work for a description of airflow in a normal engine). The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the charging. This can significantly improve the power-to-weight ratio for the engine (see How Horsepower Works for details).

In order to achieve this boost, the turbocharger uses the exhaust flow from the engine to spin a turbine, which in turn spins an air pump. The turbine in the turbocharger spins at speeds of up to 150,000 rotations per minute (rpm) -- that's about 30 times faster than most car engines can go. And since it is hooked up to the exhaust, the temperatures in the turbine are also very high.

Turbochargers allow an engine to burn more fuel and air by packing more into the existing cylinders. The typical boost provided by a turbocharger is 6 to 8 pounds per square inch (psi). Since normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, you can see that you are getting about 50 percent more air into the engine. Therefore, you would expect to get 50 percent more power. It's not perfectly efficient, so you might get a 30- to 40-percent improvement instead.

One cause of the inefficiency comes from the fact that the power to spin the turbine is not free. Having a turbine in the exhaust flow increases the restriction in the exhaust. This means that on the exhaust stroke, the engine has to push against a higher back-pressure. This subtracts a little bit of power from the cylinders that are firing at the same time.


http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/turbo.jpg
very impress!!! I will study it and try to understand it more. thanks

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:36
yes, CBV. what is it stand for anyway. yes it has oil but doesn't look like is new. therfore not sure if it was leaking or from the hose. if it was the CBV, was it a reason of the problem i have?

Circulating (as in Re-Circulating)

Blowoff

Valve

CBV :wink:

And a oil build up there can be due to a few things but the most common is, a blocked CBS as explained earlier.

Or a leaking Oil filler cap gasket, the oil runs along the head and then backward and runs right down onto the turbo.

Or the oil feed seals could be leaking.

I recomend you take a closer look to see if you can pip point the source.

Bracer
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:40
And did you see this :eek:

http://www.volvot5.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=273&page=2


Firstly hello to AdamH and eveyone else.

edwingsiu I had a similar prob with my 855 and it turn out to be a blocked Cat. Ripped its guts out and bobs your uncless if flew till I blew the Turbo to bits.

:hidesbehi

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 17:48
got it. i am trying to ask him for more details. i think by tomorrow, i will have a better idea. by the way, can my car run without a cat since a new cat is very expensive in hong kong.

Pedro Fandango
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 19:08
can my car run without a cat since a new cat is very expensive in hong kong.
yep, car will run fine without a cat (& gain power) but check on the laws over there for legality :shifty:

edwingsiu
Wednesday 24th November 2004, 19:10
ok. thx. i will remove the cat and reinstall it when it's due for government inspection.

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 25th November 2004, 00:45
There is loads of general stuff you can learn from the automotive section of
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/

It is packed with useful info on everything from turbochargers

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

to stuff that will bend your head

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm

edwingsiu
Thursday 25th November 2004, 04:12
There is loads of general stuff you can learn from the automotive section of
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/

It is packed with useful info on everything from turbochargers

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

to stuff that will bend your head

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm
Very good site. thanks mate!!! by the way, i will try yo get the cat remove today and see how it goes. any objections?

Bracer
Thursday 25th November 2004, 08:30
Very good site. thanks mate!!! by the way, i will try yo get the cat remove today and see how it goes. any objections?


Nope go and Kick that Cat my son :wink:

edwingsiu
Thursday 25th November 2004, 16:41
Removed the cat today and found no difference except before the rpm will goes up faster instead of stay at the same rpm :mad: . Re chk all the hoses today and everything seems to be in good order. I am pretty sure now the problem come when my turbo guage hit about half way of the white which i assume it is about 10psi. I started to think if ecu cut the fuel when it hit 10psi. My machanic thinks it might be the fuel pump is not running well or something wrong with the throttle body. Since I don't have any error code and I don't think it is air flow sensor or the idel control. Bracer suggested it might be the electric valve and I don't think it is the case since I am also having rough idel (is not going up and down but you can feel it is not stable) and the valve cost 250 and I don't think I will take the risk to spend that money.
My machanic and I have been thinking all the posibility but we just can not come up an answer. The other way is to start changing all the parts until it is ok but of course it will not worth to do. a 10 years old 2nd hand car is very cheap here and parts are so expensive on Volvo. If I have to change the throttle body, the electric valve, fuel pump, my final bill will cost more than what the car worth and I am not in a position of get another car since mine is in very good sharp except this which probably cause by me playing with the wastgate in the first place.
Can someone please help me think what else i should look at or anyone have the problem I am have.
:worship:

Bracer
Friday 26th November 2004, 12:33
I'm still working on it have no fear :tank:

Markzx
Friday 26th November 2004, 14:37
in very good sharp except this which probably cause by me playing with the wastgate in the first place.
Can someone please help me think what else i should look at or anyone have the problem I am have.
:worship:

When you messed with the wastgate actuator did the car go really well at first and then become poorly?

Or did it just loose performance straight after messing with the actuator?

Have you had a proper boost guage an the car to see if you are producing any pressure? eg if waist gate not closing at all no pressure no performance.
also if the end of actuator arm has come off the gate you'd
have it perminantly open so as above or closed and overboost
and ping, no impellers.

I'd check above first. If acuator stuck close, see if you got any impellors left.
if arm of and gate open sort it.
If acuator scoobied or even Turbo. Try DeeValley Volvo spare's for cracking prices.

they supplied me with a Turbo for my 850 120 and it's still going strong 8 months later.

P.S. I've just read the whole of this thread and if you've got oil coming out of your dump Valve or recuirc valve ( don't know what you have on) then you have oil where you should just have air and perhaps a little gasses. The most likely reason in my opinion, baring in mind that your engine looses power as the turbo kicks on song would be a turbo oil seal failure. I've had a similar experience myself where what should be ambiant temp air is now mixed with heat and oil and strangles the engine.

Is the car smoking if left Idling foe any length of time?

edwingsiu
Friday 26th November 2004, 17:32
I'm still working on it have no fear.


will wait for your reply with thanks.

Bracer
Monday 29th November 2004, 08:49
Some good advise there Markzx, the only problem is this guy lives in Japan :eek:

edwingsiu
Monday 29th November 2004, 13:40
Actualy I live in HK. I lend my car to my friend for a week and he will try to ask his mechanic for advise at the same time. I guess I will have to come back in a week to see if there is any new suggestions. will keep you all posted. Pls let me know if you guys come up with something new. Thanks again.
Markzx, thanks for your advise, I have been very busy and have no time to think on your advise yet. Will get back to u on your suggestion in the next few day.

Bracer
Monday 29th November 2004, 13:43
Actualy I live in HK. I lend my car to my friend for a week and he will try to ask his mechanic for advise at the same time. I guess I will have to come back in a week to see if there is any new suggestions. will keep you all posted. Pls let me know if you guys come up with something new. Thanks again.

Sorry

Correction "Hong Kong"

:eek:

LOL

edwingsiu
Wednesday 1st December 2004, 09:55
Hi MarkZX:
Thanks for your comment. Below is the answers of your questions from few days ago. Sorry for getting back to you so late.

- Yes, the car went well at first except when the boost too high (the guage was not coorect at that time) there is something not allowing the boost to go higher. Feels like when boost get high enough to some point It will release some boost to maintain the same boost level.

- I don't have a proper guage but later I found my guage was not correct as there was a leaky hose. And I don't think I was really losing boost as there was more lower end power than before. Someone suggested I adjusted it too much and it can not be reverse. Another word, the wastgate might be close at most of the time eventhough the rod was set to all the way lose.

-so if it is stuck close at all time, how should I fix it or how do I tell if this is the case?

- car is not smoking at all and passed the mod test in Hong Kong


p.s My friend just called, he took my car to his mechanic and for some reasons, the car is driving perfectly ok when he took it out for test drive. Don't know what's going on but will see what happen in a few days time. Did I mention it flows better without the cat on and I have losen the wastgate from 12 round to 6 ( from a point where I can just drop the rod down to the pin count as zero since I forgot the orig setting) By doing so, I can hit higher rpm before it cuts and after remove the cat, it takes less time for the rpm to climb up even with the cut off. May be there was something plug inside and my friend blow it all out?!

Bracer
Wednesday 1st December 2004, 10:01
Still sounds very strange but lest hope its sorted its self now anyway.

Could have been a fuel blockage of some sort maybe ?

But hey get your carback and let us know if it stays ok !

:wink:

edwingsiu
Wednesday 1st December 2004, 10:08
Still sounds very strange but lest hope its sorted its self now anyway.

Could have been a fuel blockage of some sort maybe ?

But hey get your carback and let us know if it stays ok !

:wink:

Yeah hope it won't come back. May be like you said fuel blockage and I have changed the fuel filter and clean the throttle body. May be it doesn't get well right away?!
Will keep u guys posted.

Bracer
Wednesday 1st December 2004, 10:17
One thing I strongly sugest is, get a calibrated boost gauge set-up to ensure all is working correctly being you cant be 100% sure the W/G is set properly :wink:

Markzx
Wednesday 1st December 2004, 15:38
One thing I strongly sugest is, get a calibrated boost gauge set-up to ensure all is working correctly being you cant be 100% sure the W/G is set properly :wink:

Bracer do these cars have a safety boost override like the Nissans. The management nocks the revsa and boost down until falt repaired and ECU recalibrated.

Bracer
Wednesday 1st December 2004, 15:42
Bracer do these cars have a safety boost override like the Nissans. The management nocks the revsa and boost down until falt repaired and ECU recalibrated.

What you get is ignition cut for that moment of overboost. But if its too higher spike you can throw a CEL light which will force the car into limp home mode and yes it will revert to the base W/G setting.

Markzx
Monday 6th December 2004, 15:12
What you get is ignition cut for that moment of overboost. But if its too higher spike you can throw a CEL light which will force the car into limp home mode and yes it will revert to the base W/G setting.

Do you think this could be his problem. I had this with my Zed when a head gasket went and the car would run well a low RPM but there on it was very slow to revout and the boost was limited back to 4psi.

tlr1000
Monday 6th December 2004, 19:39
Removed the cat today and found no difference except before the rpm will goes up faster instead of stay at the same rpm :mad: . Re chk all the hoses today and everything seems to be in good order. I am pretty sure now the problem come when my turbo guage hit about half way of the white which i assume it is about 10psi. I started to think if ecu cut the fuel when it hit 10psi. My machanic thinks it might be the fuel pump is not running well or something wrong with the throttle body. Since I don't have any error code and I don't think it is air flow sensor or the idel control. Bracer suggested it might be the electric valve and I don't think it is the case since I am also having rough idel (is not going up and down but you can feel it is not stable) and the valve cost 250 and I don't think I will take the risk to spend that money.
My machanic and I have been thinking all the posibility but we just can not come up an answer. The other way is to start changing all the parts until it is ok but of course it will not worth to do. a 10 years old 2nd hand car is very cheap here and parts are so expensive on Volvo. If I have to change the throttle body, the electric valve, fuel pump, my final bill will cost more than what the car worth and I am not in a position of get another car since mine is in very good sharp except this which probably cause by me playing with the wastgate in the first place.
Can someone please help me think what else i should look at or anyone have the problem I am have.
:worship: yep iv go the same problem not sure were to go for here

Justin
Monday 6th December 2004, 21:36
95% certain you have an air leak mate ;)

I know, you've checked all the hoses :rolleyes: But i still think thats what it is !!!

edwingsiu
Tuesday 7th December 2004, 20:02
ok guys. Got my car back and yes in a way it drives better but yet the problem still here. I have come to a conclusion something is restricting me going more than half way of the white. The only way I can get over that is to acc slowly and let the boost build up slowly. eg, if I go up the hill and acc hard, I will have problem going over half way of the white and if I only give little on the gas padel, I will have no problem to get the boost alomost 1/3 of the white (max) My friend's mechanic will take a look at my car later when I have more time in a few week. In the meantime can anyone think of anything so when i see the mechanic he will have a better idea what to look for.
In reply to Justin, i wish it was a leak somewhere but I have already fixed the leaking hoses which caused my boost guage didn't work properly and the other one made my fuel ran too lean and CEL was on. I couldn't find anymore leaking hose.
There is also no oil leak at all except the cap on the power steering which should not related to this. I also found there was a ring missing on my dip stick and I have replace it already.
BTW what is the easiest way to check if my wastgate is working properly?

edwingsiu
Tuesday 7th December 2004, 20:04
yep iv go the same problem not sure were to go for here
did u play with your wastgate or it just happen out of the blue?

edwingsiu
Friday 4th March 2005, 11:14
sorry have not been back for so long. had been very busy. Dropped the car off to friend's shop today and we think what happened was the shaft in the turbo is getting too lose!!! :) I think I will have to replace the turbo. Can someone give me an idea what is a used one going for and where I can buy it? from where I live, it is very hard to find used part for my car since the junk usually sell the whole car to another country. Or I hope I was wrong and is there any other cheaper way to get it fix. Mind you I still have about 7psi to 10 psi of boost, it just sometimes when I floor it, i am getting some sort of holding back boost feel kind of thing. Again, it is too hard for me to explain. can I get some advise? Thanks in advance.

Bracer
Friday 4th March 2005, 11:19
Is there no where you can have the turbo rebuilt ?

If not try eaby for a used one.

edwingsiu
Friday 4th March 2005, 14:31
Is there no where you can have the turbo rebuilt ?

If not try eaby for a used one.

I am not sure but I will look around.

edwingsiu
Sunday 22nd May 2005, 08:25
finally i hv some time this week. I have disconnect the hose to the wastgate and i manage to get the boost up to 15psi to 17psi which maked me to think my turbo is ok. however, at 7-8psi, the boost still hestetate like i said b4 but if i keep the gas padel all the way down, it will boost up to 15psi. what is the chance i hv a faulty cbv or recir valve since is has lots of oil there.

vt5
Sunday 22nd May 2005, 09:08
Edwingsiu would it not be easier to put everything back to factory standard, check everything runs right and start again?

Sometimes its eaiser to take a step back to then take a step forwards again...

Also alot of firms nowadays will ship internationally so if you need parts at reasonable prices jump on line and speak to someone over here (England) or in sweden and see if they have what you need and can ship it to you. International frieght is not too expensive for small ish items and companies have contracts set up with shipping channels for even cheaper transportation.

For example my uncle lives in Madrid and runs a Mercedes which parts are very expensive for over there....he has me to get him parts over here and send them to him.....works well.

edwingsiu
Sunday 22nd May 2005, 14:42
Thanks for your advise. I actually have tried to put everything back to the orig before. But it didn't help.
For updated, I have reconnect the hose today and in addition, I read something about remove the the grill inside the MAF (either from Dave or OZ Brick). Thought since I have time today and might as well remove it at the same time. What suprise me is the car ran well and I don't get the cutting off anymore. Not sure what I did but looks like the problem is gone. I have not have a chance to try it on the highway but it drives very normal now?! I will drive it for few days to see if everything is ok. Will keep you guys posted.
Anyways, any idea why I oil at the CBV?

edwingsiu
Sunday 22nd May 2005, 16:16
sorry guys, I have to take back of what I just said. since I didn't believe by removing the MAF screen can make my car drive better. So I took it out again just now eventhough it is almost mid night. And yes I was right, the car drove better but this is what I found.
1) still having the hold back in boost when going downhill whan it reach at about 7psi
2) drives a lot better in the highway except when I floor it, I am only getting about 10 to 11 psi (not sure if this is normal)
But I have to say overall, the car do seems to run better than what I had for the last 4 months.
Can someone help?

edwingsiu
Wednesday 8th June 2005, 18:24
Finaly my car is fix. Now I can have constant boost at 10psi and spike at 14. Is it what it should be? Anyways, it was the spark plug. I was using the NGK spark plug (forgot what it was.) It was recommanded by someone at the forum (forgot which forum though) When I inspect the gapping, it was far apart and I think it was 1.1 vs factory 0.7 I ended up replace them with Bosh platinum and now she is pulling strong. I wonder if I really did put in a wrong plug since I didn't have any problem when I replaced them or I screw up the plug when I was playing with the wastgate and boost was too high and screw up the plug?
Do the gapping go futher apart when they are wear out?