still got problems

[jadblobs]

Hi Guys still got engine management light on, any more ideas? ive changed

Both Lambda sensors
MAF
Spark Plugs
Leads
Dizzy Cap
Rotor Arm
Air filter
Fuel Filter
and some pipes replaced.

The main fault is engine light on and i get a flat spot between 2500 and 3000, you can hear the turbo start spooling around 3500 and get boost on around 4000. Ive checked all the pipes but could it be the DV? If so where is this located. Also the actuator arm seems very easy to move, going in and out about an inch and squeaks alot when you move it, what size spanner do you need to undo the nut so i can alter it? thanks for your help :)

Jared

[jdavis]

you've spent all that before having it plugged in on a diagnostic machine !?! that'd be my first port of call

[p fandango]

your best bet is to get the codes read & see what fault the ECU says its got

as standard you'll have a recirc valve fitted directly onto the side of the turbo

[jadblobs]

hi no ive had it plugged into a machine at a garage that was saying lambda sensors, which ive changed. Im getting the same reading on my computer every ime run lean bank 1 so im trying to fix all possible causes
jared

[Happygilmore78]

I dont know as much as you guys on here, but my light stayed on after i replaced part until the old problem code was removed - even though it wasnt a problem anymore. Probably not it, but the code remained, hence light was still on

[PNuT]

have you checked the fuel pressure?

[jadblobs]

have you checked the fuel pressure?

how do i do this?

[cookie]

what year is it, and were the codes read properly, or on a generic reader, and as said, once each part was fitted, were codes reset, or battery left disconnected for 1/2 hour?

otherwise esp is 99MY or newer (No throttle cable) ECU will continue to run assuming part is still faulty (and probably being ignored)

on ME7 if certain components begin to fail, ECU will substitute readings for a pre assumed figure/figures and ignore any information given from that component, and will continue so to do until it's told you have replaced the part.

edit

Just realised you replaced dizzy, so its Pre ME7,

However was ECU reset (discon battery as long as you have radio code is easiest) and was Lambda genuine or Bosch? and same for MAF, as cheap copy parts may not agree with your ECU

[PNuT]

how do i do this?

schrader valve on the end of your fuel rail... you will obviously need a pressure gauge to measure it! should be something along the lines of 3 bar above manifold pressure but you probably need to check the exact fuigure for your car

[phil_woods]

I'm sorry but I might have read this wrong, I think he has said that the fault still exists so if the codes had been cleared it would still have the problem and the eml would still come on. I may have read this wrong and I'm no mechanic but it sounds to me like a fueling problem, maybe the it's overboosting?
Or I'm probably chatting crap lol

[mightywolf]

If the actuator arm is moving easily on its own maybe its the actuator spring? If the spring is knackered it could be opening the wastegate too soon and causing the flat spot on acceleration?

[cookie]

Sorry, hadn't fully read posts, Turbo should spool about 2500rpm, could well be actuator spring, or actuator problem, but without proper diagnosis, throwing parts just becomes expensive, and fitting cheap copy parts can create more problems than it solves

[PNuT]

the wastegate is unlikely to cause it to run lean... if it is running lean then i would not start messing with the wastegate to increase boost! thats a recipe for disaster

[jadblobs]

thanks for getting back. It says running lean but in fact it was actually using alot of fuel about 20.5mpg going easy on her. After fitting the leads, dizzy and rotor it gone upto around 26mpg so its defo better. Ive reset the ecu and see if comes back on, ive done around 20miles and its stayed off but ill know tomorrow.

Jared

[mightywolf]

Hi Guys still got engine management light on, any more ideas? ive changed

Both Lambda sensors
MAF
Spark Plugs
Leads
Dizzy Cap
Rotor Arm
Air filter
Fuel Filter
and some pipes replaced.

The main fault is engine light on and i get a flat spot between 2500 and 3000, you can hear the turbo start spooling around 3500 and get boost on around 4000. Ive checked all the pipes but could it be the DV? If so where is this located. Also the actuator arm seems very easy to move, going in and out about an inch and squeaks alot when you move it, what size spanner do you need to undo the nut so i can alter it? thanks for your help :)

Jared

Sorry i wasn't meaning to play with actuator to increase the boost I was just picking up on the fact that the actutor arm seems very easy to move which could mean the actuator spring could be shot. I should have asked this first but does it move easily with the actuator rod attached to the arm or when the rod is off the arm? They do move quite easily with the rod off but it shouldn't be easy to move with the rod on.

[jadblobs]

Sorry i wasn't meaning to play with actuator to increase the boost I was just picking up on the fact that the actutor arm seems very easy to move which could mean the actuator spring could be shot. I should have asked this first but does it move easily with the actuator rod attached to the arm or when the rod is off the arm? They do move quite easily with the rod off but it shouldn't be easy to move with the rod on.

it moves very easy with the rod connected, i can pull it in and out. The light has now come back on although my mpg is staying around 26 now so something has helped. Another thing ive noticed is when the car is cold there is no flat spot and it goes like a rocket soon as it get to operating temp it loses power again (I dont thrash it when its cold! I know itll kill the turbo :) )

Jared