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sebasteeno
Tuesday 12th January 2010, 21:02
Having generally used Autoglym stuff for the last twenty years and always been happy with the results im now wondering about Carnauba. Im wanting to give the car a nice protective wax covering over the polish and everything seems to lead to this so called magic stuff Carnauba.

So is it really that good? I know theres loads of different waxes available all claiming to be better than each other and to offer the best shine in the world ever but will Carnauba give me the super shiny wet look they all claim it will?

Opinions please?

scooter
Tuesday 12th January 2010, 21:35
alot of waxes out there use that mixed in with something else and i think it is good I use proshine spray and shine from the shopping channel and it is the dogs

jimka
Tuesday 12th January 2010, 22:59
collinite 915... 'nough said.

wegal
Wednesday 13th January 2010, 15:59
915 is good stuff :-)

volvokid
Wednesday 13th January 2010, 16:02
I use zymol, your always supposed to wax after polishing, polish gives no protection it strips everything.

volvokid
Wednesday 13th January 2010, 16:04
Oh and wax adds minimal results to the look of your paint, anyone who tells you diffrent and says it transforms the car hasnt a clue. Its the polishing that will make the car shine and remove swirls etc....

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 13th January 2010, 16:12
Wax is a final step product and reflects only that what has gone before.

I use collonite in the autumn - so when it is not possible to wax regularly due to the cold I still retain the protection. The shine is not so good, so I redo it with better wax in the spring.

AG SRP is good for filling fine scratches coupled with the high gloss finish - is a good detailing method.

Wax choices are varied - can depend on car colour, endurance, ease of use, smell and shine.

Without decent prep though - this will not matter a toss. The more preparation you put in - the better and more permanent the result.

I have a guide below - which mirrors that you find on the likes of www.detailingworld.co.uk (http://www.detailingworld.co.uk)

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/galleries/july_2006_CYC.htm

Spring is the best time to start a full detail. Get rid of the swirls is a necessary but time consuming step. You really can only do this with machine polishing. I have all the gear and would be happy to demostrate (I did it with Wegal a couple of years ago).

bailes1992
Friday 15th January 2010, 22:57
I work for a company called Glossmax if you don't already know (5% Discount with the Redemtioncode VPCUKMEM ;)) Anywho, A wax is a wax, it will not change the finish, what it looks like etc, it's simply a protective layer.
What changes the finish is the prep work underneath. I'm doing an ongoing test at the moment between Raceglaze 55 and Meguiars #16. Raceglaze 55 costs 6 times more than Meguiars #16. I prepped the surface well (using Autoglym SRP on a DA polisher) and you think I can tell the difference between the waxes by looks alone? No and I doubt anyone else could either.
Meguiars #16 is just as durable, if not even more durable than Raceglaze 55 and has no difference in looks what so ever. If the surface of the paint is prepped well then theres no need for expensive waxes, the only difference of course is durability.

Now Wax isn't the only 'protective' layer you can have. You can also have a sealent. Now a wax is natural and contains carnuba wax. A Sealent is completly man made and contains polymers.
Now you can layer Waxes on sealents but you can't layer sealents on waxes.
Not only this you can't layer a sealent on a Glaze unless its a Polymer based glaze such as Danase Wet Glaze. This is becausea a Glaze is too oily for a sealent to bond to. Glazes are such things as Meguiars Step 2 and Meguiars #7 speed glaze etc.
Going back to sealents I will say sealents can add a little somthing to the finish, they can enhance the glassy Nuance and made the reflection deeper and cripser. Not only this you can layer and layer and layer a selant providing the selant dosen't contain any paint cleansers (although some do say you can layer them but you have to leave each coat 24rs after buffing for it to fully cure) but you cannot layer waxes, each layer of wax wills imply strip the layer of wax underneath it.
Now I love using a wax and the tight endless beading due to it. Thats why my main wax is Meguiars #16 and somtimes raceglaze 55 which is over a layer or two of sealent.

Now to back up my argument with the waxes I'm going to post up two pics of my bonnet after beign prepped wellwith Meg's 16 on one half and Raceglaze 55 on the other...

Meguiars #16

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g16/Bailes1992/DSC00644800x600.jpg

Raceglaze 55...
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g16/Bailes1992/DSC00641800x600.jpg

Sorry if it's abit much to take in at once, I must get my little guide up on here I stuck on Pug306.net.

If I was you get a good set of products and do it in this order...

Wash
De-Tar (petrol works for this to be honest)
Clay
Polish (Now Autoglyms Super resin polish is an awesome little polish, it will make the paint of the car super smooth and ready to take any layer of anything ontop of it 2-3 coats of this, pea sized amounts worked in well will look pretty good on any colour)
Glaze (Optional, a glaze uses oils to make the finish far wetter)
Sealent (If you havent already used a conventional glaze, if you've used a polymer based glaze like Danase Wet Glaze then no issues with using a glaze here)
and Wax (optional if you;ve used a sealent but it will make it slightly more durable and have nice tight beading....

Hope this helps albeit abit long?

Wobbly Dave
Saturday 16th January 2010, 01:53
I use a lot of chemical guys products. I like the factory sealant - but sometimes I can be a little lazy and use the extreme sealant with the built in carnuba. I also like the Wet Mirror Finish stuff.

As a wax I like the black pearl signature wax.

I would be interested in your opinion on the Porter cable - I have been using it for a few years and find the results on Volvo top coat long winded. Is the DA an orbital or a rotary?

bailes1992
Saturday 16th January 2010, 09:34
I use a lot of chemical guys products. I like the factory sealant - but sometimes I can be a little lazy and use the extreme sealant with the built in carnuba. I also like the Wet Mirror Finish stuff.

As a wax I like the black pearl signature wax.

I would be interested in your opinion on the Porter cable - I have been using it for a few years and find the results on Volvo top coat long winded. Is the DA an orbital or a rotary?

Can you tell me if the factory sealant smells minty?

I have a porter cable which I use quite allot and never put a foot wrong. If you can't get a good finish on the volvo clear coat them it might be the wrong pad/polish combination or even your technique. A DA (Dual Action) is another name for an Orbital polisher. A rotary will break down and cut paint far easier as a DA just mimics hand movement. Although with a Rotary you run the risk of burning the paint.

volvokid
Saturday 16th January 2010, 09:58
I use a lot of chemical guys products. I like the factory sealant - but sometimes I can be a little lazy and use the extreme sealant with the built in carnuba. I also like the Wet Mirror Finish stuff.

As a wax I like the black pearl signature wax.

I would be interested in your opinion on the Porter cable - I have been using it for a few years and find the results on Volvo top coat long winded. Is the DA an orbital or a rotary?

As bailes has said the DA is a lot safer than an rotary, but to get close to the same level of finish takes more time and sometimes isn’t achievable with the DA, I'm to scared to use a rotary for now but will experiment on some scrap panels when I’m ready, my advice before adventuring out with a rotary buy a paint thickness meter.

bailes1992
Saturday 16th January 2010, 10:06
I'l be honest and say rotaries aint really that bad. No more than 1800rpm's, make sure the polisher is constantly moving and keep feeling the heat of the paintwork, if it gets to the stage where you cant keep your hand on it then it's too hot etc.

volvokid
Saturday 16th January 2010, 10:11
I'l be honest and say rotaries aint really that bad. No more than 1800rpm's, make sure the polisher is constantly moving and keep feeling the heat of the paintwork, if it gets to the stage where you cant keep your hand on it then it's too hot etc.

Yeah I know but I’ll still take some training before I try it on a car' I've seen bad results from it not burning but ghosting and so on and guess who are the main culprits body shops!!!! My first V40 got painted and was a proper mess I didn’t know what it was at the time it happened before I started detailing. Even when my current V40 came back from another shop it WAS the same.

bailes1992
Saturday 16th January 2010, 10:13
I was using a Festool 150e for a month or two and on it you can switch between DA and Rotary so I got some rotary practice with it, and they are a totally different beast as you have to put pressure on it to stop it moving around the paintwork on its own accord, with the DA, especially for finishing with paint cleansers etc you can just hold it at the back of the polisher and drag it across the paint sort of thing.

smithy
Saturday 16th January 2010, 11:08
i have a maceeta rotary 9in pro polisher with adjustable speed just got to get used to using it. when the summer comes or atleast some dry weather then i will give the car the detailing it deserves

leet5r
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:08
i am a bit lost in this 1 lads , i wash the car then dry it , polish it with auto gleem, and then what do i do after this , do i use a wax to give it that wet look and what would i use after that , and whats the best products . cheers

volvokid
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:13
i am a bit lost in this 1 lads , i wash the car then dry it , polish it with auto gleem, and then what do i do after this , do i use a wax to give it that wet look and what would i use after that , and whats the best products . cheers

See here it saves everyone typing the stages for you, http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/seek-advice.html

Wobbly Dave
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:15
Can you tell me if the factory sealant smells minty?

I have a porter cable which I use quite allot and never put a foot wrong. If you can't get a good finish on the volvo clear coat them it might be the wrong pad/polish combination or even your technique. A DA (Dual Action) is another name for an Orbital polisher. A rotary will break down and cut paint far easier as a DA just mimics hand movement. Although with a Rotary you run the risk of burning the paint.
As I remember the CG Factory Sealant does smell a bit minty.

I remember now about DA meaning dual action. I have been using the same Porter Cable as you!

Wobbly Dave
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:20
See here it saves everyone typing the stages for you, http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/seek-advice.html
That is a very good guide - started me off down my detailing route.

I am happy to continue using the PC for now - I just wondered if anyone had used the UK equivalent and found it better.

I always find that those last micro scratches are the most troublesome to get rid of.

In the spring it would be good to get together to compare products and techniques!??

leet5r
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:31
rite i think i have it sorted,
wash the car
dry the car
use some sort of tar remover
polish the car (auto gleam)
wax the car or use a sealent, which is best to use give the wet look as my t5r is olive green

volvokid
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:41
That is a very good guide - started me off down my detailing route.

I am happy to continue using the PC for now - I just wondered if anyone had used the UK equivalent and found it better.

I always find that those last micro scratches are the most troublesome to get rid of.

In the spring it would be good to get together to compare products and techniques!??

Hey Dave yes its a very good guide and they are very helpful.

I know EXACTLY what you mean about the last little scratches, I'm almost at the end of my C70 detail, I got round the whole car and just had the driver door, wing and bumpers to do. I'll be honest I got 80% correction I just had the little nigly scratches very happy with it what a difference, this was using Menzerna RD3.02 and a mezerna white cutting pad this is a very aggressive combination but find it works really really well with Volvo paint I would just have pig tails and the sort to buff out with a finishing polish now I was told to use menzerna 203S and an menzerna orange pad to refine it, it did but not enough but I was happy with the result as I said about 80%. Now I got round to the drivers door and tried menzerna 203S with a white pad and no joke I have about 97% correction I'm happy but gutted at the same time I just have to decide if I'm going to go over the whole car again, I'm not sure if its worth the effort as I've done about 4 days work to the car I might only do the top half of the car but will need to buy another 3 pads.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:42
I found CG Wet Mirror finish - very good as a sealant. There are lots of good waxes out there.

volvokid
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:46
rite i think i have it sorted,
wash the car
dry the car
use some sort of tar remover
polish the car (auto gleam)
wax the car or use a sealent, which is best to use give the wet look as my t5r is olive green

Its your prepping before the LSP stage (last stage product) wax will show very little difference to the finish, I have never used a sealant but have seen pictures and you can alter the finish with these slightly.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:48
I think that in the end the more you put in the prep the better it gets at the end - however I do find the search for perfection very frustrating. I have had better success on other car makes.

It took me 4 days to prepare MrsMopps V70 for her wedding (I was chauffeur)

Before...

leet5r
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:52
Its your prepping before the LSP stage (last stage product) wax will show very little difference to the finish, I have never used a sealant but have seen pictures and you can alter the finish with these slightly.

so what would be a good lsp to use before the wax or sealant m8 cheers

Wobbly Dave
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:54
During - and it was a very long during...

Wobbly Dave
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:57
and after...

A real labour of love for the 1st lady of VPCUK.

Anyway I have had quicker turn around with smaller cars.

Just wondered if you have found any good solutions for the PC with Volvo top coat.

I use mezerna polishes too.

volvokid
Monday 18th January 2010, 23:58
so what would be a good lsp to use before the wax or sealant m8 cheers

Wax or sealant tends to be your last stage product, I use zymol Volvo wax, I think its just a branded version of the zymol carbon. Just bare this in mind your only suppose to polish a car twice a year its your LSP that you top up. People who polish there car every weekend are doing more harm than good as its striping coats of the paint but you will find the people that polish there cars all the time are applying the polish by hand and are using cloths which in principle doesn't do much of anything and a lot of hard work for minimal result.

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:03
Very nice Dave, I can never be bothered taken process pictures but I like to see them.


Just wondered if you have found any good solutions for the PC with Volvo top coat. What do you mean Dave?

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:03
I found correcting this rover (HLM loan car) a lot easier


but I guess it was a lot lot smaller.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:07
Very nice Dave, I can never be bothered taken process pictures but I like to see them.

What do you mean Dave?
favoured pad/polish combo's - that's all. I mean if you have any tips (not that I have no experience persay) I appreciate any shortcuts you have found.

I too tired of taking yet more shots of my own car. I need to do some more this year as I have changed the lights and the grill (again). I am due to respray the bumper as it is seriously mashed.

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:13
Here's a mates BMW I did it took me 2 1/2 days not perfect but I made about £20 and i'm not doing it again!!!

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh9/volvokidv70r/DSC_0154-1.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh9/volvokidv70r/DSC_0155.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh9/volvokidv70r/DSC_0162.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh9/volvokidv70r/DSC_0164.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh9/volvokidv70r/DSC_0165.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh9/volvokidv70r/DSC_0173.jpg

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:16
I find it difficult to enthuse to do other people's cars - including my own Fiance's - the BM-er looks good on it.

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:19
favoured pad/polish combo's - that's all. I mean if you have any tips (not that I have no experience persay) I appreciate any shortcuts you have found.

I too tired of taking yet more shots of my own car. I need to do some more this year as I have changed the lights and the grill (again). I am due to respray the bumper as it is seriously mashed.

As I said In my above post this seems to be the best for Volvo paint, I just hope this new combo to refine the paint doesnt strip bag too much, it shouldnt but I dont have a gauge yet to monitor it, (you have more experice in it than me I just started going anal about it 2 years ago I'm still learning all the time) Order my combo that I use and give it ago just get the small polishing bottles. I'm going to book the c70 into polished bliss for a wax top up they use a zymol wax dont remeber the one but it cost over £2000 for a small pot.

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:25
I find it difficult to enthuse to do other people's cars - including my own Fiance's - the BM-er looks good on it.

The C70 is my best so far, I've never got into doing the V70 100% yet. I spent ages on my ex's 182. I'm not doing anyones elses cars now just my dads (at some point lol) the Hilux can only dream, its to big. the cars I done were mainly for my own training.

leet5r
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:25
Wax or sealant tends to be your last stage product, I use zymol Volvo wax, I think its just a branded version of the zymol carbon. Just bare this in mind your only suppose to polish a car twice a year its your LSP that you top up. People who polish there car every weekend are doing more harm than good as its striping coats of the paint but you will find the people that polish there cars all the time are applying the polish by hand and are using cloths which in principle doesn't do much of anything and a lot of hard work for minimal result.

the car is very clean like not to many marks.a normaly just use autoglym every couple of weeks like about 3times every 2 months or so then just use a wax , is that good enough like , its all good stuff a use like a cant remember the name of the wax off the tp of me head like , just a want the car to look wet all the time. cheers

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:30
the car is very clean like not to many marks.a normaly just use autoglym every couple of weeks like about 3times every 2 months or so then just use a wax , is that good enough like , its all good stuff a use like a cant remember the name of the wax off the tp of me head like , just a want the car to look wet all the time. cheers

These sprays maybe what your after http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/car-care-products-maintain.html use them after every wash in between your wax applications.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:33
I use a lot of last touch. Its great for spraying on as a drying aid.

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:35
I use a lot of last touch. Its great for spraying on as a drying aid.

Same as me, the bottle go's a long way. I also use Werkstat Carnauba Glos just finnish it off mmmmm smells fine.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:35
The C70 is my best so far, I've never got into doing the V70 100% yet. I spent ages on my ex's 182. I'm not doing anyones elses cars now just my dads (at some point lol) the Hilux can only dream, its to big. the cars I done were mainly for my own training.
mine too - but I keep redoing odd panels here and there. Less so since I got engaged.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:36
Same as me, the bottle go's a long way.
diluted from the gallon bottle into a spray bottle - 1 in 3

leet5r
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:36
These sprays maybe what your after http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/car-care-products-maintain.html use them after every wash in between your wax applications.

so would i use this afer the wax or before

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:38
I use it after washing as a drying aid. Depends if you have already waxed. You shouldnt need to reapply wax every time. Most will last at least 6 weeks - some longer. Depends also on your washing technique.

leet5r
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:44
I use it after washing as a drying aid. Depends if you have already waxed. You shouldnt need to reapply wax every time. Most will last at least 6 weeks - some longer. Depends also on your washing technique.

sound lads am gettin there lol

leet5r
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:45
av just put some pics on me profile if yous want a look and then maybe point me in the rite direction

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:49
When you apply wax you are suppose to leave it on for maybe 15 Min's or so whatever then wipe it off, leave the car inside if you can for 24 hours this gives the wax time to cure and go off, next day spray the car with your QD ( quick detailer) i.e last touch megs, and buff it up. As Dave said you dont wax after every wash but after drying the car, spray it with your QD and buff it with a cloth.

Dave I've never used last touch as a drying aid do you just spray it on the wet car? We dont have hard water up here so water marks and such arrant so much a problem but will give this ago.

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:51
Oh and if you polish your car after you wax it you will strip the wax and you need to start again lol

leet5r
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:52
good stuff lads

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:56
Had a look at your pics the car looks amazing get the BBS Triton's back on it though lol. from the pics the car is gleaming but you cant see if it needs detailed although it probably does. You just need to read as much info as you can and get stuck in. I'm lucky to have polished bliss so close to me they hold breakfast meetings and I try to attend as much as I can thats how I learned to polish.

leet5r
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 00:59
Had a look at your pics the car looks amazing get the BBS Triton's back on it though lol. from the pics the car is gleaming but you cant see if it needs detailed although it probably does. You just need to read as much info as you can and get stuck in. I'm lucky to have polished bliss so close to me they hold breakfast meetings and I try to attend as much as I can thats how I learned to polish.

haha that 1s not my car lol a found it on a website but loved the way it looks lol am goin to have a sort out in the shed what av got and use lol , got loads of that dimond bright stuff lol

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 01:01
I also use a fast spray on wax after the dry using last touch, just to keep the levels topped up.

If you use a non invasive pre-wash - aka snowfoam, to loosen dirt - it will make the wash quicker and safer.

Use the polished bliss guide.

My basic wash is...

prewash with snowfoam/max suds II mix
rinse
main wash with 2 bucket method - CG citrus wash n gloss, washschmitt
wheels - bilberry wheel cleaner, EZ detail brush
final rinse
Last touch mist and dry with a waffle weave drying towel.
spray wax top up, if time allows.

That will take me 2 hours to do.

I already have done a major overhaul - so I am just running a maintenance routine.
I try to avoid kosowash places - as they use very strong solutions of TFR

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 01:03
This picture must be 10 years old but I loved my BBS wheels the car just needed to sit lower.
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh9/volvokidv70r/GetAttachment1.jpg

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 01:03
When you apply wax you are suppose to leave it on for maybe 15 Min's or so whatever then wipe it off, leave the car inside if you can for 24 hours this gives the wax time to cure and go off, next day spray the car with your QD ( quick detailer) i.e last touch megs, and buff it up. As Dave said you dont wax after every wash but after drying the car, spray it with your QD and buff it with a cloth.

Dave I've never used last touch as a drying aid do you just spray it on the wet car? We dont have hard water up here so water marks and such arrant so much a problem but will give this ago.
I find it helps the water to run off.

volvokid
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 01:10
Thats the same routine as me, I've never used the bilberry I've heard good things about it but I dont need a strong cleaner as the wheels never get that dirty. I'm also going to try and mix products in with my hyper wash when I next wash the V40 I'm going to throw in some degrease lol I dont care that much about the paint on that thing as long as its clean It gets a quick polish now and again I just through wax at it to protect it a bit.

What (kosowash) is that just like a jet wash at a petrol station? I use them all the time when I use the car but only use the water jet no soap just to get the crap off before I go home.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 19th January 2010, 01:19
I find the ferodos can be quite dusty - particularly due to the way I drive.

Bilberry works well. I am just getting lazy when it comes to reapplying my wheel sealer.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 3rd August 2010, 01:50
I have just re-read this thread again for the 3rd time & there are a lot of great tips and hints. Can someone stick this up at the top of the detailing section?

Will make it a lot easier for me especially for detailing newbies.

I also have a number of DA polishing experiences lately to share - not least that to get rid of swirls on older Volvo top coat takes at least Menz. IP & a fairly aggresive pad.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 22nd November 2011, 01:59
and after...

A real labour of love for the 1st lady of VPCUK.

Anyway I have had quicker turn around with smaller cars.

Just wondered if you have found any good solutions for the PC with Volvo top coat.

I use mezerna polishes too.

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7931&d=1263855358
I was asked today about this car - I just hope the paint fix will have been well cared for. But wthout decent wash technique & maintenance - I guess it will be interesting to see. I remember the 4 days of hard graft with claybar & the porter cable DA polisher.

I got it remapped too - as a wedding surprise for Moppy. Again it will be interesting to see if the remap still exists after3 years - ECU may have been sold, actuator & parts may be somewhat tired. Power wise again it is a complete guess.

The best part of it was getting to drive Tash to her wedding & then on to her reception. That was a good day!! Such a shame we don't see her likes around her anymore.

volvokid
Tuesday 22nd November 2011, 08:49
Is it just because of the baby she isnt on here now?

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 22nd November 2011, 14:01
Maybe so. If she reads this - I hope it finds Mark, Baby & her in good health.

danny-R
Tuesday 22nd November 2011, 14:07
Does the op (sebasteeno) still read the forum?
Seb if you read this pm me I need some window tint removing and re-doing.

cheers

volvokid
Tuesday 22nd November 2011, 18:37
I wouldnt think so hes a fiat and alfa man, look in his profile that will tell u when he was last on

mr shifter
Wednesday 23rd November 2011, 03:11
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7931&d=1263855358
I was asked today about this car - I just hope the paint fix will have been well cared for. But wthout decent wash technique & maintenance - I guess it will be interesting to see. I remember the 4 days of hard graft with claybar & the porter cable DA polisher.

I got it remapped too - as a wedding surprise for Moppy. Again it will be interesting to see if the remap still exists after3 years - ECU may have been sold, actuator & parts may be somewhat tired. Power wise again it is a complete guess.

The best part of it was getting to drive Tash to her wedding & then on to her reception. That was a good day!! Such a shame we don't see her likes around her anymore.
I own this car now. It still looks good. Shall get some pictures posted soon. It still has its ecu and goes very well, but it seems to be overboosting a tad.

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 23rd November 2011, 13:38
Actuator control parts & diaphragms & all that jazz will need to be checked. I would also do a thorough service.

How are the swirls in the sunlight?

mr shifter
Thursday 24th November 2011, 12:52
There are a few small marks and scratches which will come out. Theres a scuff on the bonnet which again will come out. But as for swirls there really isnt any. A testament to the effort you put in to the car 3 or so years ago. Im going give it a quick polish and deal with the little bits n bobs in the spring as the car still looks very good.
A service is next on the list and im going to try to see if theres any service history as theres nothing with the car except a few volvo stickers under the bonnet. Oh and a cambelt methinks as i have no idea when that was done.
And 4 wheel refurb, matey round the corner has a Smartpaint franchise ( alloy wheel repair/refurb)and hes given me a price i cannot refuse.
For an older car it drives very nicely indeed. Shall get some pictures of it on here soon.

mr shifter
Thursday 24th November 2011, 16:10
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh176/mr-shifter/DSC00815.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh176/mr-shifter/DSC00813.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh176/mr-shifter/DSC00819.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh176/mr-shifter/DSC00822.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh176/mr-shifter/DSC00816.jpg
Not the best pictures but a general idea of what it looks like now.

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 24th November 2011, 18:07
Yep still looks pretty good from here

mr shifter
Thursday 24th November 2011, 19:12
As theres no history at all with it i phoned volvo and there are service records with them under its original reg and its previous private reg, A8NFU, so brother in law aiming to get the print out on it. Thats a bonus.
It seems to sit a bit high, did read on another related thread it had 4x4 suspension?

Wobbly Dave
Friday 25th November 2011, 01:22
I think with a clay, glaze, seal & wax it would look bright as a button.

mr shifter
Friday 25th November 2011, 01:52
Weather permitting going to clay it at the weekend. As for the rest im a philistine, prob dynaglaze jobby and auto glym polish.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 25th November 2011, 02:31
sounds like a plan!