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Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 01:52
Updated Spec - 12/12/2011

I have been developing and shaping this Silver C70 T5 for 5 years or more. Car as of Dec 2011 is now showing 159K plus change.

She's 12 years old now. FSH - carried out by HLM Motorsport.

Never ever wanted for anything. This was originally a for sale thread - but I am keeping hold of the C70 for now.

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/c70_scotland_easter_2007/loch_dughaill3.jpg

She is an MY1999 ME7 T5 Sport with an electronic throttle and manual 5 speed gearbox.

She is unique in many ways. Very fast - possibly one of the best handling T5s. I have spared no expense on my mods.
Features include
- IPD Short Ram Intake - Gives great induction noise and release from the recirc valve.
- 19T Turbo.
- Ferrita Race Cat 3" DP
- Larger 3 inch core FMIC
- AST Custom reverse intercooler pipework
- Samco hoses for I/C pipework & hoses in Blue!
- Samco Coolant hoses - blue
- Custom Stainless air intake.
- Miltec 2.75" Stainless Steel Cat back exhaust system - possibly one of the only C70s with this kit - you can't even buy it now. Sounds awesome but is not intrusive
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4250
- Green Hi-Flow rate Volvo injectors - new in August 2009. AFR will never be a problem!
- Only Custom Remap in the country from HLM (new supplier from Sweden)- Produces 312Bhp - with 1.25 bar
- Data logging now enabled for Andriod Phones.
- Bilstein B3 shocks. Possibly the best shocks you can buy for this road car? Absolutely no rock or roll, but very progressive and smooth ride. Awesome road holding.
- IPD Re-inforced Anti-Roll bars front and rear
- Mehle heavy duty front end drop links
- Volvo Front OEM Strut Brace
- Ferrodo DS2500 - all round.
- Goodridge Braided lines
- Dot 5 racing blue brake fluid.
- Run on nothing but Shell V-Power. Serviced only with Shell Ultrahelix 5w40 oil every 5000 miles.
- NGK Iridium 8 Spark plugs.
- Quaiffe LSD fitted into a M56HK gearbox.
Interior -
1/2 leather, 1/2 alcantera seats & trim.
Front Airbag (Driver only)
Full Climate Control - Air con still works perfectly.
Alpine: IVA-D310R Motorised DVD monitor (4 years old - 2011) - Headunit feature 7" motorised retractable TFT monitor with PulseTouch control - detachable control panel - separate processor unit in the boot. Very secure - very cool. Plays DVDs, DVD-Rs, DVD-RWs, CDs, CD-Rs, CD-RWs, and MP3/WMA discs - more details...
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/3516/referer/rc_googleproduct.html
I have fitted an ipod adapter, Alpine make separately - so that you see what you see on your ipod!
Volvo OEM 10 cd storage unit fills the gap under the single DIN HU.
Vovlo OEM antenna down switch keeps the electric aerial tucked away when not needed.
Sony Ericsson hands free bluetooth mobile phone - works with mini joystick and/or voice operation. Communicates with any BT enabled phone. (see attached below)


Exterior -
Wheels - I have a set of 5 17" Comet 5 spoke alloys. I did have some nice 19s until some basterd nicked 'em.
225/45/R17 Tyres - summer and seperate winter tyres
MY2003 rear clusters fitted in August 2009.
MY2003 clear front headlights fitted also 2009.
HID 6000 kit with matching LED side light bulbs. Turns night into day.
HID 6000 kit for main beam. Osram Nightbreaker bulbs in the fog lights.
Clear indicator clusters (see albums below) and clear wing clusters.
Electric & heated wing mirrors.
Flat frameless wiper blades.
Paint work fastidiously maintained using modern paint corrective techniques and the best equipment. Some parts have also been resprayed to correct damage and marks that most would leave alone. There are however marks/stone chips on the front splitter and bonnet edge. I will pass on the Volvo touch-in paint pots I have to help keep on top of them - as I have tried to do.

Photo Albums are here...
http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/galleries/my_Current_idx.htm

Lots of Videos here... http://www.youtube.com/user/WobblyDave72?feature=mhee
PB for 1/4 mile - 14.502@ 104.7mph

cameron
Monday 21st December 2009, 02:05
Cant beilive your selling her dave.

You'll be gutted when she goes.

I can vouch for the quality in this machine, its lovely.

Not the best piccy but gives a good idea of the look with the Comets ..............

http://i371.photobucket.com/albums/oo159/cameron793/york2.jpg

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 02:15
Thanks for the vote of confidence. The new machine will be equally as cool once finished - if not more so.


Just uploaded other previously unseen photos, including when I had nothing better to do than make it REALLY shiny!

linkin582
Monday 21st December 2009, 08:52
that is a great looking car with an awsome spec list. if only i had the pennys !!!!

Vikingxl
Monday 21st December 2009, 08:56
Great looking car at a great and realistic price. Good luck with the sale wobbles and onwards and upwards!!!

Justin
Monday 21st December 2009, 09:14
Yeah have to agree, that car is doted on, lovely condition and a credit to its owner, good luck with the sale mate :)

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 11:05
Forgot to mention the new green injectors fitted earlier this summer.

Storm-Troll
Monday 21st December 2009, 12:39
good luck with the sale Dave... this is truely a first class car.. I have had the pleasure of driving it myself and can vouch for its Awsomeness lol.... you will be sad to see the Wobble Chariot go.. are you moving up to the Toyota Prius now???. I know u have been wanting one for sometime now....

wegal
Monday 21st December 2009, 12:42
Anyone who buys this car will get a real good un, ive seen it ive driven in it and driven it. Great Car.

T5ER
Monday 21st December 2009, 12:47
iirc i drove this at shakespear raceway and can vouch it is one of the best kept C70`s and volvos i have seen for a long time, i think i drove it before it was modified and it was quick then. Good luck Dave with the sale i take it your going for a new C70 then

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 13:22
good luck with the sale Dave... this is truely a first class car.. I have had the pleasure of driving it myself and can vouch for its Awsomeness lol.... you will be sad to see the Wobble Chariot go.. are you moving up to the Toyota Prius now???. I know u have been wanting one for sometime now....
I am staying in a C70 - except this one is black SE LUX and has a folding roof.

volvokid
Monday 21st December 2009, 13:42
So did you buy that one you spyed not long ago? great car and bloody cheap too.

Murphy
Monday 21st December 2009, 13:52
Great value Dave, should sell no problem :D

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 15:19
I appreciate all the kind words - I am proud to see that my C70 is held is such high regard.

Now for the bad news - I have decided not to buy the black C70 SE LUX and be boring and pay off CC debts etc.

It was a close call.

Mods - can I have my own Wobbly Dave section in the forum now? Best if you move this thread to C section perhaps?

abdul
Monday 21st December 2009, 15:47
whats the price seem to have missed it

lance
Monday 21st December 2009, 18:20
Best thing to do mate you wont find a better T5 not without spending a fortune and you have done on this one already!

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 19:19
whats the price seem to have missed it
You also missed the sale. The price would have been 2795.

smithy
Monday 21st December 2009, 21:24
You also missed the sale. The price would have been 2795.

why dont you get a 850 t5 for now to keep you in the volvo world but you will always be on here you are part of the furniture lol

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:23
As that sadly would be a step in wrong direction. It is not the fact I dislike my current ride or anything - I just need to calm it on taking on more commitments. Give me a year - I get my SE LUX.

volvokid
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:33
As that sadly would be a step in wrong direction. It is not the fact I dislike my current ride or anything - I just need to calm it on taking on more commitments. Give me a year - I get my SE LUX.

You mean your SE LUX Premium :troutslap

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:38
Yeah that LOL!!

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:47
Get it to look like this...??

http://www.heicosportiv.de/nextshopcms/cmszoom.asp?id=4267

T5ER
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:51
hmmm looks nice at the back to

T5ER
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:53
but this colour me thinks

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:58
That was the colour that I nearly bought

T5ER
Monday 21st December 2009, 22:58
very nice looking indeed

Wobbly Dave
Monday 21st December 2009, 23:00
I am not keen on the new "melted" one.

volvokid
Monday 21st December 2009, 23:05
but this colour me thinks

Thats what happening to my one going to get the front and back done

T5ER
Monday 21st December 2009, 23:06
Thats what happening to my one going to get the front and back done

will be nice to see pics when its done mate

volvokid
Monday 21st December 2009, 23:07
I am not keen on the new "melted" one.

Na its horrible same with the new C30, did you know the C30 comes as standard with white alloys, what is it a bloody Honda?

T5ER
Monday 21st December 2009, 23:08
:rice:

volvokid
Monday 21st December 2009, 23:14
I'm going to wait till the warranty runs out first I know Volvo Germany covers Heico parts but I wouldn’t think the UK would, its bloody expensive stuff too. The remaps are 1450 euro so not bothering with that, but the exhaust is the same bloody price and I’ll need that.

volvokid
Monday 21st December 2009, 23:15
:rice:

Yeah exactly rite I seen a mint green one with the white wheels when I picked up my car and i was left with a bit of sick in my mouth.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 22nd December 2009, 00:03
I'm going to wait till the warranty runs out first I know Volvo Germany covers Heico parts but I wouldn’t think the UK would, its bloody expensive stuff too. The remaps are 1450 euro so not bothering with that, but the exhaust is the same bloody price and I’ll need that.
Yeah but worth it to stand out. I will also have the nice exhaust. The engine note is too tinny.

volvokid
Tuesday 22nd December 2009, 00:19
Yeah but worth it to stand out. I will also have the nice exhaust. The engine note is too tinny.

Yeah you can just make out the 5 pot, the car is so quite inside I dont even drive fast in it, its just a chilled out drive. Heico styling is brilliant for this car, do you want me to send you the price list for there stuff?

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 22nd December 2009, 01:10
yeah - no harm in dreaming

volvokid
Tuesday 22nd December 2009, 17:10
I sent it to your hotmail account

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 22nd December 2009, 18:29
Well - once my dream ride comes - I shall definately invest

Storm-Troll
Tuesday 22nd December 2009, 21:36
I have a few Heico Bits on my T5 but I think Ill have to keep adding them. see if I can find an S60 T5 Heico kit lol.... I like the look of the C70 one...

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 23rd December 2009, 01:29
Deffo got my creative juices flowing...

T5ER
Wednesday 23rd December 2009, 22:50
I have a few Heico Bits on my T5 but I think Ill have to keep adding them. see if I can find an S60 T5 Heico kit lol.... I like the look of the C70 one...

like this ST

http://www.heicosportiv.de/frame-top.asp?lang=en

Pliskin
Thursday 24th December 2009, 00:25
The Heico piccies look the nuts but I wonder what kind of suspension mods have been carried out because I believe there is an inherent steering fault with the later C70 if you go anything bigger than seventeens.

I am running an 06 C70 T5 in silver and apart from the roof control unit throwing it's hand in (£400), thankfully under warranty it is a lovely relaxed drive.

I can't help noticing though when I get back in my 96 854 T5 auto the build quality is light years apart.

Jimmie
Thursday 24th December 2009, 11:13
If there was a fault with anything over 17inch why do they fit 18s as a factory fit extra?.
Personally i would say the build quality is better in the new C70+ interior wise than the old 850s "ie" better plastics

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 24th December 2009, 16:10
like this ST

http://www.heicosportiv.de/frame-top.asp?lang=en
Linky is for the page header only.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 5th February 2010, 17:10
Project Wobbly continues unabaited.

Right - I am still not selling - so have decided to continue this thread as my own modifications project thread....

I think there must be something in the water in Shropshire.

Anyway I continue to spend, spend, spend - to bring you (& me) the best possible C70 as I see fit.

Purely debateable whether this aim will be achieved and I do have a serious online shopping habit.

Bought recently and fitted...

Shiny cap for the oil filler cap. Like a magpie I have fallen for more of PFVs/IPDs shiny tat!

Bought and still to fit...

Rob's ex (intercooler)
Samco sport hoses..
short shifter kit
Bluetooth integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
Ipod integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
HB3/9005 4300K HID kit for main beam.
H1 Osram Night Breakers for Fog lights.

Will someone take this credit card away?!!?!

Anyway it's my birthday next week and this is all the excuse I ever needed.

Still to do...

Refurb 19s (or flog 'em)
Data logging and final stage remap.
Software integration to show boost gauges and other telemetry on the Alpine unit display.


Will this make me more attractive to the opposite sex??

No.

Will anyone care that I have a 10yr old 130 THOUSAND MILE C70 with shiny bits in the engine bay?

No.

Should I stick the samco sport sticker somewhere prominent.

Forehead - definitely.

Views and abuse welcome. That's why I come here.

smithy
Saturday 6th February 2010, 13:43
Project Wobbly continues unabaited.

Right - I am still not selling - so have decided to continue this thread as my own modifications project thread....

I think there must be something in the water in Shropshire.

Anyway I continue to spend, spend, spend - to bring you (& me) the best possible C70 as I see fit.

Purely debateable whether this aim will be achieved and I do have a serious online shopping habit.

Bought recently and fitted...

Shiny cap for the oil filler cap. Like a magpie I have fallen for more of PFVs/IPDs shiny tat!

Bought and still to fit...

Rob's ex (intercooler)
Samco sport hoses..
short shifter kit
Bluetooth integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
Ipod integration kit for the Alpine IVA D310 head unit
HB3/9005 4300K HID kit for main beam.
H1 Osram Night Breakers for Fog lights.

Will someone take this credit card away?!!?!

Anyway it's my birthday next week and this is all the excuse I ever needed.

Still to do...

Refurb 19s (or flog 'em)
Data logging and final stage remap.
Software integration to show boost gauges and other telemetry on the Alpine unit display.


Will this make me more attractive to the opposite sex??

No.

Will anyone care that I have a 10yr old 130 THOUSAND MILE C70 with shiny bits in the engine bay?

No.

Should I stick the samco sport sticker somewhere prominent.

Forehead - definitely.

Views and abuse welcome. That's why I come here.

well you dont need to worry about the opposite sex because you have a misses ,with the 19s back on your car looks nice .but i have 1 question you are putting all this stuff on and remapping it etc ,when are you going to learn to drive it lol
its a joke dave ive seen your driving

MIKESC70T5
Saturday 6th February 2010, 14:12
well you dont need to worry about the opposite sex because you have a misses ,with the 19s back on your car looks nice .but i have 1 question you are putting all this stuff on and remapping it etc ,when are you going to learn to drive it lol
its a joke dave ive seen your driving

I thought Dave was an experienced off roader lol :rally_dri

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 7th February 2010, 01:29
I thought Dave was an experienced off roader lol :rally_dri
sure am! mind you the 2 experiences I have had - one over a hedge and the other spining out on a track day are more than enough for my lifetime.

I have the Ipod adapter now fitted - the lead comes up inside the arm rest which is pretty handy.

Sadly the BT handfree had to go back to Alpine as it was the wrong one.

It's OK Smithy - I can take the comment in the manner with which it was intended. See you all at the track ;)

smithy
Sunday 7th February 2010, 20:56
to be honest i cannot wait to see how the car goes with all the mods you have done it should go well just plant your foot mate and go for it it should be fast

Wobbly Dave
Monday 8th February 2010, 18:13
well I too am looking for some better results - but cannot remove the major flaw in the plan - namely the big nut behind the steering wheel.

smithy
Monday 8th February 2010, 19:04
well I too am looking for some better results - but cannot remove the major flaw in the plan - namely the big nut behind the steering wheel.

lol you could grease the nut to make it more relaxed mate lol.if i was you mate just spin the tyres to get them warm before going on strip and go for it your car can take it with them mods mate .

Wobbly Dave
Monday 8th February 2010, 19:32
cheers mate - no matter what I do - I always get far too excited when the lights change.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 1st March 2010, 00:17
Daresay we should rename this - Wobbly's C70 development thread.

Ipod adapter was fitted for the Alpine Headunit - got a 16Gb 5th Gen Nano for my birthday 2 weeks ago. Very happy but search function via the display is slow. I also had to buy a Scorsche adapter so it can charge on the lower/newer 5 volt charge voltage.

Put the egg crate grill (the full detail is imminent once the 19s are repaired and returned).






Fitted the shiny new oil cap cover ages ago but today I also put in the

Short shift kit - disappointed the brass bushes for the earlier M56 don't fit but short shift is a success and I like it.
Samco sport hoses - except the bottom I/C which I will put in when I swap the I/C - fitted partly to indulge my inner chav but also think after 130K the old hoses were a bit soft.
HB3/ 9005 HID kit for main beam. Very bright indeed. I am now officially outed: Bi-Xenon
H3 Osram night breakers on the fogs - much better than the old ones - though not a perfect colour match.
Still more to come yet but here are the pics.

This also may be the first time you'll have seen the MY2003 front lamps.

t5 pete
Monday 1st March 2010, 00:22
hey dave get some pics up what where your times last year at york

Wobbly Dave
Monday 1st March 2010, 00:25
I don't remember but they were nothing to write home about. Photos got lost but now reattached

Wobbly Dave
Monday 1st March 2010, 00:28
More tuning is yet to come and the bigger FMIC.

smithy
Monday 1st March 2010, 09:37
well done mate with the shiny bits looking nice there

Wobbly Dave
Monday 8th March 2010, 02:36
Well I did a mini Valet today and despite still being in her winter wellies - I still think she looks well?

I used carlack 68 degreaser under the bonnet (under side) and engine bay. Rinsed and then dressed with Aerospace 303 protectant.

Hand applied (no applicator used) one of my fav waxes (easy to use even in March!) -

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/chemical-guys-pete-39-s-53-paste-wax/prod_337.html

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 11th March 2010, 02:40
I have to take my hat off to Tom @ HLM - the man has talent.

I have been waiting a while to get the newly acquired intercooler- born out of the accident that T5ROB had in January - installed.

Sometimes I think that maybe I should have had a go at getting it to fit, but given that it took Tom some hours with all the modern tools and a ramp to play with - I am glad I left it well alone, (Not that I am without talent when it comes to mechanicin' things)

There was some additional fabrication involved to get the thing squeezed it - but you can only tell by looking at the slight gap in the plastic fairing at the top to see that anything has happened.

Even managed to preserve the Air/Con and retain the plastic underfairing without too much plastic surgery.

Very cool job - quite literally.

We even found time to do a semi-scientific comparison of the manifold intake temps before and after, using the autologic.

Overall on the same air ambient temp (9.75 degrees C) - in the morning and then later in the afternoon, there was a 5 degree drop for siimilar acceleration in the same gear for the new intercooler.
Cruising temp was 2 degrees down on average.

The max possible temp seen was about 10 degrees lower on the newer.

However the new IC is far from light. It is anything but light!! I reckon this will help traction as the weight is forward of the front wheels! I am only guessing but I think it must be 3 or 4 times heavier than the OEM IC.

Credit where credit is due. Tom worked patiently and diligently to get the work done.
Top job from HLM again. Never let me down and the guys stayed on late to finish the rest of the service - and a big thanks for letting me use the wireless LAN to continue working.

Having driven her a few miles now - it just seems to be getting better and better. I feel sorry for the front tyres.
(sort of)
I would hope to see if the rolling road is complimentary about the intake temp drop.

Pic shows the new IC plumbed in just before putting the underguard back on. 19s next and some araldite. I have 120 decorative screws to glue in!! FFS!

smithy
Thursday 11th March 2010, 09:12
I have to take my hat off to Tom @ HLM - the man has talent.

I have been waiting a while to get the newly acquired intercooler- born out of the accident that T5ROB had in January - installed.

Sometimes I think that maybe I should have had a go at getting it to fit, but given that it took Tom some hours with all the modern tools and a ramp to play with - I am glad I left it well alone, (Not that I am without talent when it comes to mechanicin' things)

There was some additional fabrication involved to get the thing squeezed it - but you can only tell by looking at the slight gap in the plastic fairing at the top to see that anything has happened.

Even managed to preserve the Air/Con and retain the plastic underfairing without too much plastic surgery.

Very cool job - quite literally.

We even found time to do a semi-scientific comparison of the manifold intake temps before and after, using the autologic.

Overall on the same air ambient temp (9.75 degrees C) - in the morning and then later in the afternoon, there was a 5 degree drop for siimilar acceleration in the same gear for the new intercooler.
Cruising temp was 2 degrees down on average.

The max possible temp seen was about 10 degrees lower on the newer.

However the new IC is far from light. It is anything but light!! I reckon this will help traction as the weight is forward of the front wheels! I am only guessing but I think it must be 3 or 4 times heavier than the OEM IC.

Credit where credit is due. Tom worked patiently and diligently to get the work done.
Top job from HLM again. Never let me down and the guys stayed on late to finish the rest of the service - and a big thanks for letting me use the wireless LAN to continue working.

Having driven her a few miles now - it just seems to be getting better and better. I feel sorry for the front tyres.
(sort of)
I would hope to see if the rolling road is complimentary about the intake temp drop.

Pic shows the new IC plumbed in just before putting the underguard back on. 19s next and some araldite. I have 120 decorative screws to glue in!! FFS!

nice job there mate and to keep the aircon too a credit to hlm.mine was a bit different to fit because of all the custom piping and i decided to take the aircon out because i had no need for it .also i have a new pressy too a 19 row mocal oil cooler kit now just have to fit it lol.

t5_monkey
Thursday 11th March 2010, 10:13
Does the FMIC make a big difference to the driveability on the High Pressure turbo models?

On the S40 the intercooler is extremely apologetic as stock due to, I've heard the standard ones are quite good on the 2.3/2.4T?

smithy
Thursday 11th March 2010, 10:25
Does the FMIC make a big difference to the driveability on the High Pressure turbo models?

On the S40 the intercooler is extremely apologetic as stock due to, I've heard the standard ones are quite good on the 2.3/2.4T?

it all depends how much boost you are running mate ,the more the boost the more heat the more you need a better i/c

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 11th March 2010, 11:38
nice job there mate and to keep the aircon too a credit to hlm.mine was a bit different to fit because of all the custom piping and i decided to take the aircon out because i had no need for it .also i have a new pressy too a 19 row mocal oil cooler kit now just have to fit it lol.
I used to use 13 row 1/2 bsp mocal when I used to offer the additional inline ATF cooler on automatics. 13 row just fits in the gap below the rad pack on the 850s. Good luck with that!

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 11th March 2010, 11:47
Does the FMIC make a big difference to the driveability on the High Pressure turbo models?

On the S40 the intercooler is extremely apologetic as stock due to, I've heard the standard ones are quite good on the 2.3/2.4T?
Driveability has little to do with the FMIC IMHO. ARB, Drop links, suspension in combination with a good progressive remap.

I am only running 0.7 - 0.9 bar at WOT.

I am waiting on a man from the North and the data logger to see if we can get a bit more umph out.

I am pretty confident we can - 19T, race cat, induction kit, bigger FMIC and green injectors should allow us to go a bit further.

I have a standard T5 FMIC if you want it.

Forgot to say that we did pull a dead robin out the bottom of it - RSPB would not be impressed. So far that is
Volvo 3 - British Avine 0

smithy
Thursday 11th March 2010, 12:05
I used to use 13 row 1/2 bsp mocal when I used to offer the additional inline ATF cooler on automatics. 13 row just fits in the gap below the rad pack on the 850s. Good luck with that!

in the 940 i have loads of room to fit it noe no aircon

Wobbly Dave
Saturday 20th March 2010, 23:59
Difficult day trying to resolve some things on my snagging list.

For a while the "boot is open" light has been despite this being not true. I replaced the lock mech with a spare I had but still no joy - though the lock action is much improved. So today I replaced the loom with a spare from the boot lid I am selling. I was well chuffed to see the light go out - but now it will not work when the boot is open :slap:

Ok fair enough I thought.

I took the amplifier out to see if I could patch the badly corroded loom supplying the boot courtesy light - which has not worked for ages. Sadly it is beyond repair - the corrosion/shorting had gone all the way to the junction with the main loom so I was not prepared to carry on with that. So I just removed it.

I also needed to get rid of the SBS warning light - due to a faulty air bag in the shoulder of the passenger seat.
It's been there for ages. So I decided to take the warning light out. Did that and replaced it into the Lamdba light which has been missing since I bought the thing.

Lastly tried to fix the illumination lights for the headlight selector switch. Could I get the little b'stard light out - no could I like buggery!! so despite all usual efforts I couldn't tap them out. Got some small pliers to help and accidentally shorted the back of the switch and turned the whole car into a paper weight. Car would turn over but wouldn't fire!!This was further exacerbated by the fact that the car was blocking the driveway and I couldn't take the future MrsWobbly out for our scheduled social engagement. Took ages to find the right fuse in the dark. Looked through all the lighting fuses only to find eventually that it was the immobiliser fuse I had accidentally taken out.

Only once that was all working again - it was cold and dark by this time - the power antenna has stopped working so I will have to take the boot liner off again to see if I can fix it - even though I never listen to the radio. Must have disturbed the power to it when I moved the amp about.

Sometimes I wonder if it would just have been easier to live with these minor niggles.

Least I have no more warning lights on the dash - but it was such a palava. There were moments when I wondered if removing the SBS warning light would stop the engine from starting?? How insane is that?

I wont give up but ££££ me it was annoying at times!!! GRRR!

volvomad
Sunday 21st March 2010, 21:11
beautiful car mate. saw the pictures of yours on the North road up to Loch Carron. i live on the Isle of Skye and am a self employed carrier and I pass through there regularly. what a place to go to work!

right car in the right place.

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 21st March 2010, 23:01
beautiful car mate. saw the pictures of yours on the North road up to Loch Carron. i live on the Isle of Skye and am a self employed carrier and I pass through there regularly. what a place to go to work!

right car in the right place.
I love it up there. Getting married near Inverness in October. Can't wait to go back. The C70 was born to drive on the highland roads - out of the way. No cops - no cars - no cameras!

Last time I was there - we did the whole of the Wester Ross route - took 172 miles to get to Ullapool from Inverness - which is only 50 miles as the crow flies.

On a good note I managed to get the power aerial working again - one of the connectors was a little loose.

streaky744
Wednesday 7th April 2010, 23:03
You also missed the sale. The price would have been 2795.


so could you be tempted to sell this car at all for 3000 of the queens finest pounds?

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 8th April 2010, 03:17
I could be but not just right at this moment. The 19s have been fully refurbished - I had to glue in 120 decorative studs. I need 1 new spigot because 1 got lost in the refurb process (should have taken the off before hand) - and I need to replace one of the wheel centres because it fell out and I ran over it (a lot).

I am rolling the dice once more and have bought a replacement hands free to replace the broken one.

But think on this - by the time I do sell she will be better than ever.

streaky744
Thursday 8th April 2010, 22:23
i'll keep pestering then as can't find a decent soft top in my price range.

if i have not found a car by the time you finally decide to sell please can i have first offer

i may consider upping the offer if it will bring the sale forward.

Flatout Phil
Friday 9th April 2010, 00:08
I have been developing and shaping this Silver C70 T5 for nearly 3 years.


Celebrate - as I am not selling her anymore!! LOL

Well done on resisting the temptation!

:thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thew ave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave:: thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave::thewave:

streaky744
Sunday 18th April 2010, 21:29
here is my weekly pester again.

still keeping her?

or should i up my bid to make it to tempting to turn down?

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 18th April 2010, 21:45
As tempting as it sounds, I'm afraid not. There are at least 3 people who have eyes on my car and it is very flattering. I am not selling just now. I don't have the spare cash to put into a new project/C70 cc coz I am getting married in October. Also I am really enjoying it.

The other bit of good news is that we did a compression test on the engine, when replacing the plugs (and 2 coil packs) - 120 psi even across all 5 which is a good confirmation about the health of the current block!

This last weekend I have put in a new handsfree kit. It is the same Sony Ericsson HCB-700 I had before. Probably coz it was cheap and I still had the loom to just wire it in. Very happy with that.

Also - I have just refreshed the part of the interior (new front seats with heater elements). This means that the niggly fault with SRS/SIPS airbag in the passenger seat is now resolved. I haven't as yet been able to work out why the heater elements don't appear to work yet but I will get them sorted soon. Finally after nearly 3 years of ownership I have a driver seat that breaks to allow people into the back on the O/S.

I also fixed the seat I removed - so that one works too. I have learned with some blood shed - how to repair the cables that control that action in C70 seats!!!

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 25th April 2010, 22:46
Few shots today now that the 19s are back on. Light was a bit funny at times but I hope you like them.

I spent most of yesterday finishing out a couple more panels to get rid of accumulated swirls. I then put down some extra protective layers

Bixenon - HIDs on show.

Storm-Troll
Sunday 25th April 2010, 23:46
very nice wobbles..

Turkish
Monday 26th April 2010, 09:41
That really is a stunnin looking C70, really timeless.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 26th April 2010, 10:24
Well I am looking into ways of getting a better start - lower profile tyres on the perfo 16s seems like a good plan to get my 3 10ths in the 60 ft.

or possibly light weight alloys with cut slicks.

Easily reversible - after all it is just a road car.

I was so happy yesterday that I detailed Ellen's Honda inside & out.

Happygilmore78
Monday 26th April 2010, 11:33
Boooootiful mate!!

smithy
Monday 26th April 2010, 14:34
Few shots today now that the 19s are back on. Light was a bit funny at times but I hope you like them.

I spent most of yesterday finishing out a couple more panels to get rid of accumulated swirls. I then put down some extra protective layers

Bixenon - HIDs on show.

your car looks the dogs dangles with them rims mate but keep the 16s for drag racing mate

jdavis
Friday 7th May 2010, 17:25
car looks smart mate!

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 12th January 2011, 14:26
Ordered my Quaife ATB LSD today from Gearboxman - (www.gearboxman.co.uk (http://www.gearboxman.co.uk)). They are going to refurb the 2nd hand box & fit the ATB LSD. The M56 is bubblewrapped up & waiting to go. Should be good eh?

t5 pete
Wednesday 12th January 2011, 22:40
It should deffinatly be different when giving it some dave it will be good to see the difference in 1/4 mile times

S70T5Chris
Wednesday 12th January 2011, 22:46
I fitted my Quaife nearly 4 years ago now. I can still honestly say it's one of the best mods you could do to your T5.

The Flying Moose
Wednesday 12th January 2011, 22:52
It should deffinatly be different when giving it some dave it will be good to see the difference in 1/4 mile times

Couldn't agree more with Pete, at least now you'll be warming up both those Michelin slicks on the warm up!

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 13th January 2011, 01:26
I certainly hope so as it not a cheap mod!!

Wobbly Dave
Monday 17th January 2011, 01:46
Car recovered on Thursday :cry: (thanks AA) with a siezed Front O/S caliper. HLM supplied the bits & I got my hands dirty in the rain on Saturday - first time in a while. Also changed out the worn pads & front disks. So we are all good for another few years. Car turned 149000 today. Still goes like ££££ of a hot,greasy shovel.

Ordered the casing on the upgraded gearbox to be shot blasted - so will come back nice & shiny. God - I am so vain!!

The Flying Moose
Monday 17th January 2011, 01:59
Car recovered on Thursday :cry: (thanks AA) with a siezed Front O/S caliper. HLM supplied the bits & I got my hands dirty in the rain on Saturday - first time in a while. Also changed out the worn pads & front disks. So we are all good for another few years. Car turned 149000 today. Still goes like ££££ of a hot,greasy shovel.

Ordered the casing on the upgraded gearbox to be shot blasted - so will come back nice & shiny. God - I am so vain!!

Sorry to hear the need to call out the Auto-mobile Association, never good. Its not just you though Dave I have had them out a few times albeit Tyre failure!

On a positive note Plenty of life in the old Girl yet! I hit 201K on the original engine in the 854 and was running perfectly. Should see another 100k out of her Dave.

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 27th January 2011, 13:12
Gearbox is finished & paid for (ouch!!). Looking towards a new DMF & clutch options. Any opinons?

p fandango
Thursday 27th January 2011, 13:23
LINK (http://www.ttvracing.com/Volvoflywheel.html) & 850R clutch

smithy
Thursday 27th January 2011, 21:33
Gearbox is finished & paid for (ouch!!). Looking towards a new DMF & clutch options. Any opinons?

get in touch with ttv racing they did my flywheel on my 940 to take 850r clutch which is all fitted and you wont break that flywheel and i would go single mass not dual mate but they do both.

p fandango
Thursday 27th January 2011, 22:00
get in touch with ttv racing
thats who i linked to :wink:

smithy
Thursday 27th January 2011, 22:05
thats who i linked to :wink:

ok mate sorry didnot see link but i would still go single mass though

Wobbly Dave
Monday 31st January 2011, 15:44
Is the 850R clutch suitable for my application & what is the difference between it & the T5 clutch I have?

Also ttv racing - which is the better flywheel (bearing in mind I still want a driveable car at the end of the day). SMF or DMF?

S70T5Chris
Monday 31st January 2011, 17:47
I swapped over to a SMF and 850R clutch a couple of years ago. The standard T5 clutch (which had done 5000miles max) was slipping at 375lb/ft. 850R clutch solved the problem and I'm now running a KKK24, not had it on dyno yet, so don't know what power/torque it is now. But can't imagine the torque will be much more than that, if any.

AFAIK the 850R clutch is as heavy duty as P1 clutches get. You can use a sachs 707 pressure plate with it, to get a higher clamping force(?).

You do lose a fair amount of refinement going over to a SMF from an 850 if i'm honest.

Having said all that, i'm not sure what the differences between ME7 and Pre ME7 if any.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 31st January 2011, 18:18
I swapped over to a SMF and 850R clutch a couple of years ago. The standard T5 clutch (which had done 5000miles max) was slipping at 375lb/ft. 850R clutch solved the problem and I'm now running a KKK24, not had it on dyno yet, so don't know what power/torque it is now. But can't imagine the torque will be much more than that, if any.

AFAIK the 850R clutch is as heavy duty as P1 clutches get. You can use a sachs 707 pressure plate with it, to get a higher clamping force(?).

You do lose a fair amount of refinement going over to a SMF from an 850 if i'm honest.

Having said all that, i'm not sure what the differences between ME7 and Pre ME7 if any.
Vis-a-vis refinement - Do you mean that the power delivery becomes jerky or just that the clutch is heavier to use?

S70T5Chris
Monday 31st January 2011, 18:33
Vis-a-vis refinement - Do you mean that the power delivery becomes jerky or just that the clutch is heavier to use?

Actually one of the benefits is the clutch is super light, and a real pleasure to use. It's just not a smooth when engaging gear as it is standard with the DMF.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 31st January 2011, 20:33
Having read around a bit more - as my GB is a later model of the M56 - with the internal slave cylinder - I believe that I already have a SMF - maybe not the lightened one. Just feel it is prudent to change the clutch & or flywheel when the gearbox is off.

BruceT
Monday 31st January 2011, 20:45
As per Chris. My 850R clutch is lighter and easier to use than my old T5 clutch!

lance
Tuesday 1st February 2011, 10:45
I cant say I have noticed much difference some 850s have heavy feeling clutchs some light.

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 9th February 2011, 13:43
I am going with a HD sachs organic centre plate & clutch cover plate - reinforce rivets & springs, as recommended by the guys that did my remap. It's a fast road set up rather than an out & out paddle clutch for racing. Heavy duty but still with the road worthy element included, rate to 500NM so it shouldn't slip.

It will be fitted at HLM on the week starting 21st Feb.

Still uming & arring about the flywheel. Already have a SMF.

p fandango
Wednesday 9th February 2011, 13:46
Still uming & arring about the flywheel. Already have a SMF.
while your doing all that & they've got the gearbox off you might as well do the lot & put a lightened one on, how much is it going to cost in the future to remove the gearbox again just to do the flywheel do it now while its off anyway

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 9th February 2011, 13:52
I looked at your link & I am baffled by the choice.

p fandango
Wednesday 9th February 2011, 13:53
I looked at your link & I am baffled by the choice.
to TTV? All i'd do is standard flywheel weight with a few kilo's off, that'll be more that enough to notice a difference

The Flying Moose
Wednesday 9th February 2011, 14:00
Dave if you've got the gearbox off then you might as well replace the rear main seal if it has'nt already been done too.

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 9th February 2011, 14:38
Dave if you've got the gearbox off then you might as well replace the rear main seal if it has'nt already been done too.
I am certain the rear main seal will be done.

I am not changing the flywheel.
I don't have a racing engine that revs to over 8500K & just adding parts for the sake of it seems silly. If this was a full blow race engine then I could see the point. As it is the cost of getting this in is almost as much as the car is worth.

So long as the current FW is in good order - the benefits are outweighed by the cost.

Nah... gonna save my 400 quid & take the wife on holiday (as promised).

Still I am excited about the new GB.

Thanks as always for your input.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 22nd February 2011, 00:21
It's going in this week!!

Wobbly Dave
Monday 14th March 2011, 00:16
Well it has been wee while since a full update.

I got a new half & half interior from Spesh - due to his C70 being demised by a Laguna.

The new gearbox, quaife LSD & performance clutch is in. The revamped gearbox is disappointing. I am not sure what happened - & after 2 weeks of trying to contact the gearboxman.co.uk concerning the refurbishment I have had no reply - despite follow up phone calls. I will persist. The gearbox feels notch & drops out of 2nd gear whilst decelerating under engine braking.
I have still to find a resolution for it. It doesn't do it everytime & it is irritating rather than dangerous.
Perhaps the worn bushings are not helping. I hope to visit my father soon who has promised to mill me some. The quaife diff however is brilliant. The pull around corners is substantial & immediate - understeer is almost eliminated. I am scared however that when grip is lost it will go in a big way. The clutch is very direct & needs more leg power than previous. When slipping it in reverse to get on the driveway it really stinks!! However I recognise this is a small price to pay given the higher clamping force. Getting used to the clutch is not made easier by the notchy 1st gear.
I have had a new DMF (dual mass flywheel) fitted on advice from Sachs in Germany. This should help dampen some of the wash back through the transmission. Sachs said that a SMF would almost certainly damage the engine - snap the crank.

Net result is a much faster car off the line. Whole thing seems a lot faster overall - like none of the power is being wasted. It is a real shame about the gearbox but until I have had full discussion with the firm in question - it is not possible to work out the root cause of the issues. Not very impressed with the after sales care. Given the budget involved this is not the last you will hear of this. I am not usually one for airing my grevancies online & I hope that all will come good in the end.

I am certain that these issues will not stop me getting a better launch & the box has improved since Hamish fitted it. First big test will be at Cadwell Park.

Hamish must be thanked for helping getting the box fitted with all the new parts. Stirling job as ever. Even cured my ARB clunk (IPD HD ARB fouling on the shield for the steering rack box).

Anyway - I cleaned her up today. I have also bought a rotary polisher & a De-ionising unit (to lessen the 300 PBM hard water we have here). Drying the car especially in the summer is a really pain due to excessive water spotting. Anyway 0 total dissolved solids here we come curteousy of a 11 gallon DI unit.

Rnash2002
Monday 14th March 2011, 08:12
looking very nice Dave,what was your old interior? full leather?

JelT5
Monday 14th March 2011, 08:42
Car looks great Dave. Very tidy mate :)

That's a real pain about the box though. I Hope you get a satisfactory response from the company in question. What is it with people and the lack of customer service when you hand over your hard earned?!

smithy
Monday 14th March 2011, 09:33
sorry to here about your problems mate but at least you can drive her now when are you going to get the final custom remap on her ready for york i hope

Wobbly Dave
Monday 14th March 2011, 11:53
looking very nice Dave,what was your old interior? full leather?
old interior was full leather yes.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 14th March 2011, 11:57
sorry to here about your problems mate but at least you can drive her now when are you going to get the final custom remap on her ready for york i hope
I am very much at the mercy of the guy in Sweden. I am hoping he will come over this year & we can finish the map off. Timetable is open wide.

BlackBeast
Monday 14th March 2011, 13:43
I have had a new DMF (dual mass flywheel) fitted on advice from Sachs in Germany. This should help dampen some of the wash back through the transmission. Sachs said that a SMF would almost certainly damage the engine - snap the crank.



Erm, HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA :nono:

Wobbly Dave
Monday 14th March 2011, 17:38
So I take it then u have another view on harmonics?

T5frankie
Monday 14th March 2011, 17:45
the dual mass flywheels were fitted to the v70 lsd versions and the awd's so they could cope with the extra stress that they created dont know wether i'd want an smf on mine

smithy
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:02
the dual mass flywheels were fitted to the v70 lsd versions and the awd's so they could cope with the extra stress that they created dont know wether i'd want an smf on mine

if you get a ttv racing smf you would have no probs they also do dmf too

T5frankie
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:04
if you get a ttv racing smf you would have no probs they also do dmf too

the advantage is that they rev quicker dont they being lighter?

T5frankie
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:05
where are your nice wheels gone mate?

Wobbly Dave
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:06
Exactly the purpose of the DMF is to dampen any vibrations and drivetrain feedback. Sachs also said that it was likely to create a lumpy idle if a SMF was used in this application, namely fast road n occasional track use. As I have no expertise in this area I have gone with that recommendation.

Its all pretty academic now

Wobbly Dave
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:13
the advantage is that they rev quicker dont they being lighter?
That would matter if I was revving to 9k. I have a turbo that drives my engine so if I
had a highly strung race engine there would be a point to a lighter flywheel. Differences in this case I believe are negliable.

smithy
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:13
i understand what they are saying because the dmf makes the car smoother due to weight and balance but a good smf would be alot lighter and cheaper for clutch upgrads.my 940 uses a dmf as standard but i stuck a smf due to the dmfs not taking the power ,now i have a ttv racing smf and 850r clutch no probs at all

Wobbly Dave
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:18
Well I had to go with vendor advice, for better or worse. Perhaps I am older and more doddery than most :P

smithy
Monday 14th March 2011, 18:21
Well I had to go with vendor advice, for better or worse.

as long as it works and takes the power that is what counts mate now sort that map out

jardon
Thursday 17th March 2011, 15:34
Well I had to go with vendor advice, for better or worse.

Fair enough Dave, but I wouldn't agree with their advice. All the early T5's had an SMF and sprung clutch disc and I haven't ever heard of cranks snapping. In tuned cars with significant torque increases the DMF springs bottom out and it fails - launching and hard gear changes will shorten the process. This has happened to a few of the cars in our little community and fitting an SMF sorts the problem.

I can't wait to get shot of my DMF as it's just another place for slop in the transmission - I don't like how woolly it makes pulling away feel and it vibrates quite badly under full load if the clutch doesn't slip (springs failing). I have driven Tim Williams car which has an SMF/solid hub paddle clutch and it's a pussycat in car parks/hill starts. I appreciate that clutch feel and idle vibration are quite subjective but getting out of my DMF/stock clutch P2 into his 850 was a really pleasant surprise. Don't forget Tim is running 650nm through that unsprung/no DMF set up on road/track and has been for years with no snapped crank or driveshafts. A lighter flywheel won't make be as noticeable in higher gears but off the line the lower rotational inertia makes a significant difference.

Tim is fitting a sprung hub CG Motorsport 5 puck cerametallic clutch for me together with a TTV SMF and Gripper diff this week. It will make low gears more usable and improve standing start acceleration.

Glad you like the Quaife. A few of the boys have said it takes time to get confidence in LSD's/ATB's and yes it likely would just plough straight on if you overwhelmed traction at both wheels in a corner.

T5frankie
Thursday 17th March 2011, 15:56
Fair enough Dave, but I wouldn't agree with their advice. All the early T5's had an SMF and sprung clutch disc and I haven't ever heard of cranks snapping. In tuned cars with significant torque increases the DMF springs bottom out and it fails - launching and hard gear changes will shorten the process. This has happened to a few of the cars in our little community and fitting an SMF sorts the problem.

I can't wait to get shot of my DMF as it's just another place for slop in the transmission - I don't like how woolly it makes pulling away feel and it vibrates quite badly under full load if the clutch doesn't slip (springs failing). I have driven Tim Williams car which has an SMF/solid hub paddle clutch and it's a pussycat in car parks/hill starts. I appreciate that clutch feel and idle vibration are quite subjective but getting out of my DMF/stock clutch P2 into his 850 was a really pleasant surprise. Don't forget Tim is running 650nm through that unsprung/no DMF set up on road/track and has been for years with no snapped crank or driveshafts. A lighter flywheel won't make be as noticeable in higher gears but off the line the lower rotational inertia makes a significant difference.

Tim is fitting a sprung hub CG Motorsport 5 puck cerametallic clutch for me together with a TTV SMF and Gripper diff this week. It will make low gears more usable and improve standing start acceleration.

Glad you like the Quaife. A few of the boys have said it takes time to get confidence in LSD's/ATB's and yes it likely would just plough straight on if you overwhelmed traction at both wheels in a corner.

i wish i would have known this when my clutch and flywheel went i couldnt find a secondhand dmf anywhere so had to buy a complete engine with one attached could of got a brand new smf for alot less than i paid lol

jardon
Thursday 17th March 2011, 18:14
as long as it works and takes the power that is what counts mate now sort that map out

Having said all that in my last post - I agree with Smithy, enjoy it.

smithy
Friday 18th March 2011, 12:01
i wish i would have known this when my clutch and flywheel went i couldnt find a secondhand dmf anywhere so had to buy a complete engine with one attached could of got a brand new smf for alot less than i paid lol

if you would of asked before you looked for a dmf i would of told you to get an 850 smf and 850r clutch mate but aslong as you are sorted that is what counts

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 20th March 2011, 00:58
Fair enough Dave, but I wouldn't agree with their advice. All the early T5's had an SMF and sprung clutch disc and I haven't ever heard of cranks snapping. In tuned cars with significant torque increases the DMF springs bottom out and it fails - launching and hard gear changes will shorten the process. This has happened to a few of the cars in our little community and fitting an SMF sorts the problem.

I can't wait to get shot of my DMF as it's just another place for slop in the transmission - I don't like how woolly it makes pulling away feel and it vibrates quite badly under full load if the clutch doesn't slip (springs failing). I have driven Tim Williams car which has an SMF/solid hub paddle clutch and it's a pussycat in car parks/hill starts. I appreciate that clutch feel and idle vibration are quite subjective but getting out of my DMF/stock clutch P2 into his 850 was a really pleasant surprise. Don't forget Tim is running 650nm through that unsprung/no DMF set up on road/track and has been for years with no snapped crank or driveshafts. A lighter flywheel won't make be as noticeable in higher gears but off the line the lower rotational inertia makes a significant difference.

Tim is fitting a sprung hub CG Motorsport 5 puck cerametallic clutch for me together with a TTV SMF and Gripper diff this week. It will make low gears more usable and improve standing start acceleration.

Glad you like the Quaife. A few of the boys have said it takes time to get confidence in LSD's/ATB's and yes it likely would just plough straight on if you overwhelmed traction at both wheels in a corner.
I appreciate your input.

I am quite literally still getting to grips with the ATB. I will say that the assistance it provides is very smooth, maybe not as hardcore as some may wish. I certainly wouldn't want a paddle clutch within the realms of my plans - far too harsh.

I realise the DMF is a road based compromise but it was one I was prepared to make for sake of smoothness. It is at the end of the day stil the daily drive - with occasional track use.

Engineer
Wednesday 23rd March 2011, 22:07
That would matter if I was revving to 9k. I have a turbo that drives my engine so if I
had a highly strung race engine there would be a point to a lighter flywheel. Differences in this case I believe are negliable.

Not so Dave check out MOI ...............

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 23rd March 2011, 22:11
Moi as in the french me? Engineer have you gone all pretentious on me? LOL.

Details, details...

Wobbly Dave
Monday 25th April 2011, 21:25
Just thought I would post this as I am missing the C70 which is still sans gearbox.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8A5TKrs7e8w

Think she suprised as few people that day.

p fandango
Monday 25th April 2011, 21:31
Just thought I would post this as I am missing the C70 which is still sans gearbox.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8A5TKrs7e8w

Think she suprised as few people that day.
i thought they were powering up the fan, didn't realise your car was running its too quiet lol

Wobbly Dave
Monday 25th April 2011, 21:37
This was Claymore's specialist place over near Shrewbury.

Granted standing still at tick over she is quieter than a D5 (58dB).

p fandango
Monday 25th April 2011, 21:39
Granted standing still at tick over she is quieter than a D5 (58dB).
i meant on the power-run, as i said i thought it was the fan until your car moved after they backed off lol

Wobbly Dave
Monday 25th April 2011, 21:43
If it was that quiet why was the mike on my phone clipping out!!

p fandango
Monday 25th April 2011, 22:11
If it was that quiet why was the mike on my phone clipping out!!
just listened to it again, sorry it does just sound like the fan's on overdrive

Wobbly Dave
Monday 25th April 2011, 23:35
That's what she sounds like but you cannot tell that well with the poor sound quality.

Happygilmore78
Tuesday 26th April 2011, 10:17
Ahhh, the silver bullet - love that car!

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 26th April 2011, 11:57
Gearbox/ATB project progress is slow but steady. I haven't said a great deal as things were still a bit up in the air, but this is getting somewhere now.

As I may have hinted before there is a problem with the refurbished box. HLM have dropped & returned both original & refurbished M56 boxes to Hertfordshire. As the firm in question did not fit the gearbox the extent of their warranty was only within the box itself. I can understand it but it does mean paying for the 2nd drop.
I must say a big thanks to StormTroll for picking them up.
I appreciate that the silver bullet will be getting a bit under foot in Bromsgrove - Hamish has been very patient & understanding (rare I know :P ).

I have finally spoken to the gearbox specialist, who thinks he knows what the issue is. There is some "float" on the selector for 2nd. To me that sounds like there is some play in the selector fork that could be rattling around & knocking it out of gear. I am no specialist but I heard a similar story on certain Ford gearboxes.

He will inspect my original box with a view to either repairing the selector in the newly refurbished box - swapping the ATB quaiffe diff into my original or making a good box out of both.

In hindsight - something at least I can pass on - M56 parts are not available anymore. Volvo don't sell 'em - so what ever box you choose for such an upgrade/mod will always bear some risk. I think the fact that the new gearbox was running the wrong oil in it goes some way to explaining the wear. So if you do buy a 2nd hand box ensure it has the genuine oil specified for the box. Without the precise history of the donor box - I guess it is difficult to say.

Just thinking out loud - My original gearbox has been well used, so ending up with it would be a known quantity but in the end with 150K of driving, there is an element of compromise. How much long will it last? There again the new box could last longer be less worn in other areas. I just hope something good will come out of this.

The perfect fix would be a brand new gearbox - but I cannot justify this on 11 year old C70, plus I would like to remain married.

Just be aware when you buy a 2nd hand box - even if you are getting it rebuilt - there are no new internals available to buy. So perhaps buying 2 cheap ones is the way to go?

I will find out later in the week what the prognosis is. Safe enough to say no draggy for me this weekend.

Happygilmore78
Tuesday 26th April 2011, 13:06
No Draggy :( but I suppose you could always go 'in' drag?

Cheers for the info, lets hope my box lasts a bit longer, as I dont fancy my chances at picking a sweet one from the sounds of it.

Lets hope your all sorted soon enough buddy

jardon
Saturday 28th May 2011, 13:07
As this is your build thread I thought it would be useful to share some of my ME7 tuning experience with regard to fuelling. Just over a year ago Marco let me know that my green injectors were max'd out from 5000rpm - not an ideal state of affairs for injector longevity or if there was a need for enrichment at high rpms for engine protection.

So I fitted some VXR injectors and hoped for the best - they ran OK with the existing map but perhaps a bit rougher due to the ecu not having proper control on over-run etc. I didn't check injector opening times with these fitted until about a month ago when Tim fitted my new intercooler, MAF to turbo pipe and Walbro pump. The injector duty cycle dropped when we fitted the higher flowing pump but increased to above and beyond it's previous value when we fitted the cooler/pipe - at 100% from around 5000 rpm again (more airflow=more fuel flow).

So back to the drawing board - I fitted some RC Engineering 650cc injectors last week and Marco (MTE) updated the map for those (also taking advantage of the extra cooling/flow by adding more ignition advance). Now, even with increased airflow (and therefore more demand for fuel) the injector duty cycle never rises above 80-85% - a much healthier situation. Also, as the ECU is now running injectors that it's actually mapped for I have less popping/banging on over-run and smoother operation overall.

The issue is that pre-facelift ME7 cars (including yours Dave) have static fuel pressure of 3.8 bar rather than rising rate. When on boost most turbo cars have a means of increasing fuel pressure to keep fuel flow up (ecu controlled on later ME7 cars). At 1.4 bar of manifold pressure I have 3.8-1.4=2.4 bar fuel pressure - hopeless!! You cannot rebuild the fuel system on these cars to increase pressure so your options to keep injector duty cycle sensible are to fit a higher flowing pump and/or bigger injectors.

Clearly at low levels of performance you wouldn't need to worry about it but if you are going to take advantage of the 19t to it's fullest greens will be static (open 100% of the time) from around 5000 rpm. Log your injector opening times to be safe and pop them into an injector duty cycle calculator like this one: http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-idc.htm

You can log them with an ELM327 type tool or VCT (or any datalogger).

NOT an issue for facelifted ME7/ME9 cars or pre-ME7 - just an idiosyncrasy of early ME7 vehicles.

Wobbly Dave
Saturday 28th May 2011, 22:38
Part of my development process is to get a full data logger. Thanks for the heads up on the injectors. I do have the greens. Are you basically saying these are not going to be good enough? Do you also believe that my standard Volvo Fuel pump is unable to provide the necessary fueling?

jardon
Sunday 29th May 2011, 00:36
Part of my development process is to get a full data logger. Thanks for the heads up on the injectors. I do have the greens. Are you basically saying these are not going to be good enough? Do you also believe that my standard Volvo Fuel pump is unable to provide the necessary fueling?

As you are running similar hardware I think it's likely you may encounter similar issues. I never had driveability problems with the injectors running flat out but I wasn't happy to knowingly stress them to the point of failure ie: I may have got away with it for some time but who knows. Are you running an uprated intercooler and full exhaust? My 19t probably does flow more air than yours as it's ported and has a clipped turbine - but Marco said it wasn't flowing a lot more. I would log the injector opening times and plug them into that calculator before buying new ones. Your injector duty will rise as you increase boost from the 0.9 bar you run now because you flow more air AND reduce net fuel pressure at the same time. You have my number if you want to talk it through.

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 29th May 2011, 21:09
Yes I have the intercooler that came out of T5Rob's ex-850 before he made it into a compact. I have a ferrita downpipe with the race cat & a miltec 2 & 3/4 SS cat back. Will call you soon & chat.

jardon
Sunday 29th May 2011, 22:21
Sounds good to me. All my injector opening times have been logged at Tims using his VCT. I have an ELM327 tool and softloader which allow a lot of logging but I'm struggling to make the injector opening time part work. What are you going to use?

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 29th May 2011, 22:23
Don't know yet - Hamish promised me something as part of the package.

Wobbly Dave
Monday 30th May 2011, 21:54
I am interested in doing a reverse intercooler pipework for the ME7 engine. I know Rnash did one with rubber piping over the top of the block but I would prefer to use a solid pipe as per the IPD kit. I don't want to spend 400 dollars to import it only to throw half the kit away. For once I would like to do a mod that cost less than 100 quid.

Any ideas or advice?

Do certain ME7 phase 1 cars already have it as standard? I seem to remember looking at the S60R & seeing that the pipe for that engine goes the other way around.

don't really care about the hear rising theory - just that the spool up has to be quicker based on the shorter distance??

p fandango
Monday 30th May 2011, 21:56
i think theirs a couple of sensors mounted in the lower pipe which might take some working out

jardon
Monday 30th May 2011, 22:21
I have never considered reverse intercooler pipework but my turbo spools up quickly - all down to BCS duty at low rpm. Also, my IATs are below ambient at WOT with the Aquamist on. Not saying don't do it but your turbo should spool very quickly with that exhaust and sufficient actuator pretension/BCS duty. I guess if it can be done cost effectively we will benefit from your experience - it would be one of those mods I would datalog before and after to see the effect on MAF, IAT and boost profile. Are you ever near Swansea?

Wobbly Dave
Monday 30th May 2011, 22:37
Sadly not near Swansea. I will get my actuator checked next time I am in Bromsgrove. My 19T is getting on a bit now (about 100K old).

Just thought if I could get a nominal improvement for minimal investment - I would have to chop the plastic pipe just before the sensor on the ETM side. As with all things I want to do a nice job on it. I am thinking the pipes will be similar to S60R

Wobbly Dave
Saturday 16th July 2011, 23:44
Small mod today. I bought >>this (http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5969/8631159-upper-engine-rear-torque-mount)<< a while ago but never got around to fitting it.

I am not entirely sure as now everytime I accelerate - the noise is transmitted through the firewall. Sounds very aggressive inside the cabin. The noise is not audible on normal cruise, but it does sound through on gentle acceleration - hmm not sure. The mechanical advantage is quite minimal - the old one is not that badly worn.

Perhaps I am getting too old for the really noisy stuff?

AndysR
Saturday 16th July 2011, 23:48
Standard or the polybush type?

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 17th July 2011, 00:02
It looks like a standard part that has been filled with additional resin. The IPD picture is actually the standard part. It is defo not a polybush type. I will take a photo & post tomorrow.

jardon
Sunday 17th July 2011, 00:14
If there's no gain then the noise isn't worth it I guess. Does the gear change feel more positive? My top mount big bush is poly and both the lower transmission bushes are too - difficult to say if that caused more nvh as we solid mounted the O/S engine and subframe mounts at the same time. Feels great when pressing on and the small increase in noise is not an issue. Totally subjective though.

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 17th July 2011, 00:21
I think any gains will be entirely in my own mind - IPD stuff I have found in the past is not always as good as they would have you believe. RAM air kit, HD BCS & HD ARB drop but to mention a few.

I will give this new part a month & see how we go. I have been resistant in the past to fitting polybush top mount due to the extra noise. I have the upgraded volvo one - but it seems to be getting quite badly compressed. I will see if the quarter mile is reduced next weekend.

t5_monkey
Sunday 17th July 2011, 00:33
When I changed my gearbox linkage to poly... traction was a lot better. Incidentally good dampers seemed to help a fair bit too.

I think you could get more on the launch, esp if your tramp and torque wind up in the mounts is less with a polybush... we were level pegging until 3rd (when yours sailed away!) at York ... and you have an LSD :)

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 17th July 2011, 00:38
Does anyone know if the lower mount is available in poly form over this side of the pond?

You are referring to this right, monkey man?

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4888/8k0140-ipd-hd-polyurethane-transmission-torque-mount

Wobbly Dave
Friday 29th July 2011, 02:29
Well I have been tinkering again.

Bought a second hand top pipe (usually runs from the top of the FMIC to the ETM). Cut & shut job - I did try moving the holes but it was too much hassle - so I have reglued the saddle.
Main restriction on the project was to retain the sensors in an air tight position.

I took the end part of the tube - cut out the U tube bit & reglued it to make sure I had good purchase for the silicone pipe.

Next I got a generic 57mm IC kit off ebay. I used 1 90 degree & 2 45 degree tubes - one which I cut down a bit to get the right length.

I started in the light - but by the end it was quite dark. I re-used the 90 degree on the modified ETM pipe to go downwards to the bottom of the FMIC using the existing pipe & coupler.

Internal diameters have not changed significantly. Clearances on inlet manifold & top of the block were spot on - though I did reverse the top mount bolt as that was kinda close. New top pipe is very solid & of course very shiny!! Overall distance reduced by around 50 cm in terms of air travel. I measured the stock setup & it was about 2m not including the FMIC.

I feel very chuffed - in a sorta pioneering way. Hamish is not going to reciprocate but I don't care. :P

A few teething issues to resolve (the 90 degree silicone pipe is a little slack on 1 junction - & it blew off under full load) but it does work & only time (1/4 mile time) will see if it was worth the bother. Still it looks the dog's danglies and by my standards relatively cheap - I think it will come in at around 100 quid.

What do you lot think?

jardon
Friday 29th July 2011, 08:47
Nice work and looks neat - 0.5m sounds like a worthwhile saving. I started a fuel pump swap in daylight recently but ended up ferreting around in the dark with a large torch in my mouth. Sort out your 90 degree bend and enjoy.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 29th July 2011, 10:35
The other thing I forgot to say is that there is virtually no silicone hose in the system - so less elastic flex.

AndysR
Friday 29th July 2011, 11:11
Looks good, smart work.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 29th July 2011, 11:29
The only reason that the 90 degree pipe blew of was because I re-used a pipe that had been stretched over the top IC inlet. I knew it was a risk but trying to keep the costs down I thought it was worth a go. Hey ho. I have ordered a new 90 degree bend that should fit perfectly. Only problem is I am impatient & find it irritating to have to wait.

p fandango
Friday 29th July 2011, 11:44
The other thing I forgot to say is that there is virtually no silicone hose in the system - so less elastic flex.
you've got to be running some serious boost to get flex out of 3ply silicone

T5frankie
Friday 29th July 2011, 12:33
looks good dave but is it enough to catch me lol

t5_monkey
Friday 29th July 2011, 13:17
Does anyone know if the lower mount is available in poly form over this side of the pond?

You are referring to this right, monkey man?

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4888/8k0140-ipd-hd-polyurethane-transmission-torque-mount

that's the one!

Wobbly Dave
Friday 29th July 2011, 22:31
I have fixed my little niggle. I cut the OEM vertical pipe down and paired it with the last 90 solid pipe I had with the kit.

I glued & clamped the cut pipe (as it no longer had a knurled end) - determined that it wouldn't budge.

And yes frank - I will be quicker ;)

Also the route is now a little shorter & smoother.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 29th July 2011, 22:33
Yes, pedro - but over time they do get softer.

Jamest5r
Friday 29th July 2011, 22:47
Good job Dave, look's really nice, the top pipe would look the nuts if you could get it done in one whole section would finish your engine bay off perfect :)

Wobbly Dave
Friday 29th July 2011, 23:14
Well I asked IPD if they would sell their top pipe to me separately & they said no & wasn't about to spend $400 to just bin half the kit. However I am please with my first attempt. If anyone knows someone that could make up a pipe & still make clearance & keep it shiny & cost less than 40 quid then I am all ears.

Jamest5r
Friday 29th July 2011, 23:37
Radtec in Cannock, just take them your template/pipework and they will make it for you, as usual ask Smithy to call them for you and arrange it he know's the owner(Keith). That's where im getting mine done all in one piece so no leaks at 1.7bar :)

Jamest5r
Friday 29th July 2011, 23:49
Can't find a better pic at the moment but you get the idea...

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy185/jamesclancy/hols223.jpg

Wobbly Dave
Friday 29th July 2011, 23:55
Do you know how much that would be approx for the top pipe?

Lets see first if it is worth the effort.

Jamest5r
Saturday 30th July 2011, 00:00
Do you know how much that would be approx for the top pipe?


Ill pm you Smithy's number, he's starting work at midnight so give him a while to get into his run and im sure he would love a chat for an hour or so :)

Wobbly Dave
Saturday 30th July 2011, 00:04
I will stick it under my hat & wait to see if this development is worth the extra investment.

lance
Saturday 30th July 2011, 15:26
Good to see you and the beast again earlier.

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 31st July 2011, 00:33
It was lovely to see you too - & I am loving the new V50 T5 - still I think it needs the rear spoiler to set it off proper like.

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 31st July 2011, 00:38
TORQUE app for my Samsung Galaxy S II (running Andriod 2.1) - £2.49. Wireless bluetooth OBDII interface port jobby - 16 quid.

Being able to see real time telemetry & data log it & not have to stick in a stupid boost gauge - PRICELESS

Bit of a boring techie vid - but it does show what I am getting.

ps - I just now need to modify the ODBII port itself so I can put the arm rest down. I will probably rotate it by 90 degrees so the adaptor can lie flat.

Wobbly Dave
Sunday 31st July 2011, 23:24
My modified ETM pipe came unglued today - so I wasn't happy. Sanded it all down again - reglued & pop-rivet it! It ain't going anywhere now (I hope #gulp#).

Haizum74
Monday 1st August 2011, 15:05
TORQUE app for my Samsung Galaxy S II (running Andriod 2.1) - £2.49. Wireless bluetooth OBDII interface port jobby - 16 quid.

Being able to see real time telemetry & data log it & not have to stick in a stupid boost gauge - PRICELESS

Bit of a boring techie vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay-ZvTn3fLo) - but it does show what I am getting.

ps - I just now need to modify the ODBII port itself so I can put the arm rest down. I will probably rotate it by 90 degrees so the adaptor can lie flat.



Which bluetooth adaptor did you get?

Wobbly Dave
Monday 1st August 2011, 16:39
its the same one shown in the YouTube vid - >>Google Shopping (http://www.google.co.uk/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUK345&q=obd+ii+bluetooth+adapter+&oq=OBDII+bluetooth+adap&aq=0s&aqi=g-s2g1g-s1g-b2&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=203l1641l0l6234l7l6l0l0l0l0l1125l1125l7-1l1#q=obd+ii+bluetooth+adapter&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUK345&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=pMQ2TvqmC8bKswbHrPi4Ag&ved=0CE8QrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=7850b0dd159fc7b&biw=1280&bih=599)<< it has a blue & yellow front.

So easy to use. Yes there is a small time lag in the app/network connection - but the gauges all have peak reading indicators so you can always review. I have yet to explore the data log & graphing tech yet - but it is coming straight from the ECU - so there is no doubt to the accuracy - as this is what the car is seeing.

Haven't used the fault codes.

My adaptor also came with CD rom software to install into you laptop (yet to be explored).

Avon park did not mind me having the sucker mounted phone holder either & even if they did I could run the app with the phone in the glove box. I don't actually need to see the numbers.

App also allows you to set up car profiles so that you can put in Kerbside weight etc & it will calculate power figures, 0-60 times & 1/4 mile. For now I will use book figures - 1435KG plus 100KG for the Wobble Meister

It also has fault code reading capabilities.

Raw data screen shows all the numeric telemetry even though the text is a tad small. Units can be changed to suit.
IATs, Boost, MAF, Timing adv - too many to list.

Perhaps a wired connection would be quicker? but the bluetooth is hassle free.

First proper test will be on 21st at Santa Pod.

jardon
Thursday 4th August 2011, 22:03
Nice one. I need to get an Android phone. Published weights may be unreliable - I took mine to a weighbridge and got 1740kg (accurate to within 10kg) with me in it (75kg). Thats significantly more than quoted elsewhere. My local council refuse facility have the nearest weighbridge and it's worth tracking yours down if you are going to use the "road dyno" part of the software.

Dave86
Thursday 4th August 2011, 22:53
Bought one that look exactly the same off ebay for about £13, it works although not too well with torque dunno whether its my phone or the adaptor. it was telling me i was boosting to 1.4 bar when my boost gauge was reading 0.7. The car hasn't been mapped so one of them is wrong lol.

Know what u mean about the arm rest though. Oh and don't start the car with the adaptor plugged in mine throws a paddy and won't start for 5 mins.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 5th August 2011, 01:17
Well I have had a right battle to get the glued part of the pipe to work. I used araldite & 4mm pop rivets to support the glue & it was still pushing out some oil. So it has come off again & this time I have melted the join together using a soldering iron. If it were not for the bloody sensors I would use a 70 - 60 right angle reducer in silicon & a straight alu pipe (both of which I have). Getting a precise seal on the sensor holes without being able to use some form of welding - I am not that confident of its longevity. I think we will be on either the original setup or version 4 before long.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 00:44
Gearbox has gone tits up again. I am sending it back but will still have to pay for the drop/refit.

Is this to be 3rd time lucky. I cannot recommend CTS (www.gearboxman.co.uk (http://www.gearboxman.co.uk)) but cannot afford to go down another supplier route. HLM will do the drop refit work.

I would advise all to steer clear based on the quality of the work done. It is warrantied but I wish I'd stayed more local.

On a brighter note - before this occurred - we have been fettling the car at HLM & was able to produce another 7 horsepower - 312 BHP in the end (30th July 2011) - however we have made a significant torque increase across the board.

The red line was made last October at the RR day.
The blue line (312) was just the map alone (1.2 bar)
The green line was with 1/4 turn on a bleed valve fitted that day (then removed later). It made 1.4 bar on this run but Hamish & I both felt it was too much for an old engine & would only end in tears.

Significant amount of torque has resulted in a much faster 2nd gear & car is fierce!

I was going to keep this a secret until the Pod results came in but the busted G/B has pretty much put paid to that.

I was hoping to shave half a second off my season's best of 14.6 at 103.

I was pleased to see that the AFR was steady at 12.7 & that the AIT did not rise above 37 degrees (17 above the ambient, which was 20 that day).

I hope that once the gearbox is sorted again that she will put in a good performance at Silverstone.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 00:48
To gain the 40 NM for 1000 revs I don't think would sit well for longevity - but it is an interesting exercise to see if the ME7 would sustain without fault the use of a bleed valve.

All runs BTW were done in 4th gear.

Dave86
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 07:27
Looking good mate apart from your gearbox woes, certainly producing a fair old bit of power keep up the good work

smithy
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 11:55
nice and that is what you need in 2nd gear and 3rd just need to learn how to drive it and control the power now.nice work hamish and dave.

T5frankie
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 17:17
Gearbox has gone tits up again. I am sending it back but will still have to pay for the drop/refit.

Is this to be 3rd time lucky. I cannot recommend CTS (www.gearboxman.co.uk (http://www.gearboxman.co.uk)) but cannot afford to go down another supplier route. HLM will do the drop refit work.

I would advise all to steer clear based on the quality of the work done. It is warrantied but I wish I'd stayed more local.

On a brighter note - before this occurred - we have been fettling the car at HLM & was able to produce another 7 horsepower - 312 BHP in the end (30th July 2011) - however we have made a significant torque increase across the board.

The red line was made last October at the RR day.
The blue line (312) was just the map alone (1.2 bar)
The green line was with 1/4 turn on a bleed valve fitted that day (then removed later). It made 1.4 bar on this run but Hamish & I both felt it was too much for an old engine & would only end in tears.

Significant amount of torque has resulted in a much faster 2nd gear & car is fierce!

I was going to keep this a secret until the Pod results came in but the busted G/B has pretty much put paid to that.

I was hoping to shave half a second off my season's best of 14.6 at 103.

I was pleased to see that the AFR was steady at 12.7 & that the AIT did not rise above 37 degrees (17 above the ambient, which was 20 that day).

I hope that once the gearbox is sorted again that she will put in a good performance at Silverstone.

excellent Dave if a little sneaky lol although still down on torque compared to mine :hidesbehi

siamblue
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 18:38
Sorry to hear about that Dave, but another car breaks after being on the rollers, i am sure you will have good after care though.. the manual boxes are normally very tough on these cars..

Gary

jardon
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 19:15
What have Gearboxman been doing - just supplying a refurbed box or fitting your diff? Is it time to ask them for a refund or payment towards the drop/refit?

Nice to see you working on that map - it's hard to know whether the extra torque would significantly shorten the engine/transmission life. Exposure to "hard driving" will for sure - it's how the extra lbft are used I suspect that determines wear/failure.

The torque spike with the bleed valve is not desirable - if you want to run 1.4 bar then the ECU/BCS needs to be in control. That increase in torque should be running out to ~5000 rpm but the ECU is expecting 1.2 bar and seeing 1.4 - I suspect the ECU is pulling timing and thats why the increase is transient. Interesting experiment though. I have used an MBC to limit boost when my BCS has been playing up but not the other way around (in parallel with the BCS).

Nice IAT's - the intercooler seems happy even on a dyno.

Volvostorm
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 20:31
What is happening to your gearbox to make the noise?

and what are they going to do to fix it?

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 21:06
Sorry to hear about that Dave, but another car breaks after being on the rollers, i am sure you will have good after care though.. the manual boxes are normally very tough on these cars..

Gary
just to get the time line straight - the gearbox breakdown & the dyno run were not related in any way.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 21:17
just to get the time line straight - the gearbox breakdown & the dyno run were not related in any way.
As far as the gearbox goes I have contacted the OFT and will follow their guidelines & due process within the bounds of consumer law. I will make best efforts to recover consequential losses & give the service provider the opportunity to fix the fault.

Jardon - I paid for a refurb & LSD fitting. The March selector fork fault was resolved. This new issue is a different problem. HLM recon a bearing has failed or is faulty. I have spoken to CTS and they have agreed to take the box back.

The strip has begun today. There will be a delay as I need to get a letter to them detailing what I expect them to do.

I just want what I paid for in the first place.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 21:31
What have Gearboxman been doing - just supplying a refurbed box or fitting your diff? Is it time to ask them for a refund or payment towards the drop/refit?

Nice to see you working on that map - it's hard to know whether the extra torque would significantly shorten the engine/transmission life. Exposure to "hard driving" will for sure - it's how the extra lbft are used I suspect that determines wear/failure.

The torque spike with the bleed valve is not desirable - if you want to run 1.4 bar then the ECU/BCS needs to be in control. That increase in torque should be running out to ~5000 rpm but the ECU is expecting 1.2 bar and seeing 1.4 - I suspect the ECU is pulling timing and thats why the increase is transient. Interesting experiment though. I have used an MBC to limit boost when my BCS has been playing up but not the other way around (in parallel with the BCS).

Nice IAT's - the intercooler seems happy even on a dyno.
I wouldn't want to run that much boost on a old unforged engine - it was just an experiment. It wasn't so much a spike more a bubble & yes I was very happy with the AIT & AFRs - its a great map - smooth powerful & prolonged.

jardon
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 22:35
Feel for you Dave - are these boxes rebuildable? I'm not aware that new parts are available. A good known used one may be another option if Gearboxman are struggling. The tolerances on bearings and gear mesh are critical and swapping gear sets between casings may not be successful. Was the noise related to wheel speed or engine speed?

Maybe the long term plan could involve a fresher engine or forged rebuild? Note I say long term. A stock engine and transmission will sustain 500nm and I'd bet even more if not too low down - probably the sensible max for a 19t.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 23:12
Well during the 2nd rebuild during March/April - he had 2 boxes to work from to make 1 good one. Bearing should be available & should have been replaced if worn. That's what I paid for.
In any case if it was not possible to do the work under warranty then he should have said. Any way that is not my concern.

The 1982 Sales of Goods & Services act - says "Reasonable skill & care". I will follow the guidelines & the protocols of the act to seek a suitable resolution. Whilst this is frustrating I cannot afford to abandon the gearbox.

I am not sure about forging a new engine. I have just bought S40 for Ellen. I may be able to save enough to get a new engine but without spending 7 - 8K on a proper race engine I think it will be difficult to achieve a good enough return.

Jamest5r
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 23:28
Well during the 2nd rebuild during March/April - he had 2 boxes to work from to make 1 good one. Bearing should be available & should have been replaced if worn. That's what I paid for.
In any case if it was not possible to do the work under warranty then he should have said. Any way that is not my concern.

The 1982 Sales of Goods & Services act - says "Reasonable skill & care". I will follow the guidelines & the protocols of the act to seek a suitable resolution. Whilst this is frustrating I cannot afford to abandon the gearbox.

I am not sure about forging a new engine. I have just bought S40 for Ellen. I may be able to save enough to get a new engine but without spending 7 - 8K on a proper race engine I think it will be difficult to achieve a good enough return.

Sorry to hear about your gearbox woes wobbly, but nice figures on the rollers :)

You dont need to spend 7-8k for a decent engine...1k for rods/pistions, 1k for the work/belts/etc/etc simples :)

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 23:35
So if I pass you a 2nd hand engine & 2K you'd be able to make one? Hmm - I am a bit skeptical. Who you using for that?

The Flying Moose
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 23:40
So if I pass you a 2nd hand engine & 2K you'd be able to make one? Hmm - I am a bit skeptical. Who you using for that?

Easily for 2k Dave, damn you could have the thing removed, rebuilt and re-fitted for 2k.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 23:42
That wouldn't include any headwork though.

The Flying Moose
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 23:45
That wouldn't include any headwork though.

Even the head isnt alot, £30 for a skim £30 for genuine gasket kit and new valve stem seals, £2.50 per valve to be grinded.

Thats only £110 for practically a fully rebuilt head.

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 9th August 2011, 23:55
I will see what Hamish has to say.

jardon
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 09:50
That wouldn't include any headwork though.

If I was replacing or rebuilding my engine I would get Tim to flow the head - takes a fair bit of time but results are worth it.

If you have decent compression across all cylinders then the engine isn't "old" anyway. Mine has done 110000 miles and Joules was running the HLM hybrid with 500nm at >200000 miles on a stock engine. The things that tend to pop are rods on older cars with high boost at low rpm or pistons burning if running too lean. I don't see that either of these is a risk for your engine if you wanted to run a lot more torque - the transmission maybe but not the engine. Mine ran at 1.5 bar for a few months with a failing BCS.

If anything bad happens to mine and I have spare cash I will fit whatever's needed for silly torque (rods and pistons) and have the head flowed. I'd bank on ~£2000 - £3000 as depending on what you replace. If I have no cash I will just fit a known good used engine.

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 12:43
Nah - I think I need to stop chasing the envelope & enjoy the car for what it is - namely one of the fastest phase 1's in the country.

Gonna get the front bumper sprayed in again & I have found a man to make my RIP kit out into solid pieces.

book some track days & watch you lot eat my dust ;)

siamblue
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 12:59
I will see what Hamish has to say.

You see Dave that is where you are going wrong, You need too find a top mechanical engineer that can port and tune a T5 engine and there aren't many of them around in the UK.
Tim has built lots of engines he understands these engines inside out, you have his number go ask him, if it makes you feel better get Hamish to fit the head or engine Tim can build for you, while you are at it, get a KKK24 or 27 and you will be happier than a pig in a sand pit map to suit and you will have over 350hp, we will always struggle with the 19t's because of the flow rate exh side but you know that anyway lol.

Gary.

jardon
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 13:12
Nah - I think I need to stop chasing the envelope & enjoy the car for what it is - namely one of the fastest phase 1's in the country.

Gonna get the front bumper sprayed in again & I have found a man to make my RIP kit out into solid pieces.

book some track days & watch you lot eat my dust ;)

As long as you are happy with it Dave then I'd leave it as is.

hamish
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 13:26
Even the head isnt alot, £30 for a skim £30 for genuine gasket kit and new valve stem seals, £2.50 per valve to be grinded.

Thats only £110 for practically a fully rebuilt head.

You are joking aren't you ?

hamish
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 13:27
You see Dave that is where you are going wrong, You need too find a top mechanical engineer that can port and tune a T5 engine and there aren't many of them around in the UK.
Tim has built lots of engines he understands these engines inside out, you have his number go ask him, if it makes you feel better get Hamish to fit the head or engine Tim can build for you, while you are at it, get a KKK24 or 27 and you will be happier than a pig in a sand pit map to suit and you will have over 350hp, we will always struggle with the 19t's because of the flow rate exh side but you know that anyway lol.

Gary.

PMSL I've heard it all now

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 13:57
You see Dave that is where you are going wrong, You need too find a top mechanical engineer that can port and tune a T5 engine and there aren't many of them around in the UK.
Tim has built lots of engines he understands these engines inside out, you have his number go ask him, if it makes you feel better get Hamish to fit the head or engine Tim can build for you, while you are at it, get a KKK24 or 27 and you will be happier than a pig in a sand pit map to suit and you will have over 350hp, we will always struggle with the 19t's because of the flow rate exh side but you know that anyway lol.

Gary.

We did - http://www.prideengines.com/ - I would not feel comfortable using someone who does the majority of his work on a driveway. I am sure you are super happy with him & DTP seems very pleased with his 2.4 conversion - but that is just not me.

There is no point just sticking in some cheapy rods to run an extra 0.3 of a bar.

If a job is worth doing then it is worth doing well. The shopping list from Pride to build a proper engine with proper rods (not the ebay specials), flowed head comes in at just over 8K - at which point it is still sitting on a bench. Just ask RT - I am sure he has had the same experience. Then a 1500 quid turbo (maybe need a new DP) - then map it.

On an 11 year old C70 just to get a second off the 1/4 - nah it is just not worth it given that the car for 95% time is a road vehicle. I think about sitting on the other end of a 12-15K bill with my wife growling at me.

Gonna take my money & buy something we can both enjoy - like a 400hp jacuzzi.

hamish
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 14:14
We did - http://www.prideengines.com/

Gonna take my money & buy something we can both enjoy - like a 400hp jacuzzi.

LOL.

If you fitted Alcohol Injection it could be really fun / dangerous !!

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 14:15
LOL.

If you fitted Alcohol Injection it could be really fun / dangerous !!
The alcohol injection would be in the form of a fridge in the garden.

WOODY T5
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 14:35
Gearbox has gone tits up again. I am sending it back but will still have to pay for the drop/refit.

Is this to be 3rd time lucky. I cannot recommend CTS (www.gearboxman.co.uk (http://www.gearboxman.co.uk)) but cannot afford to go down another supplier route. HLM will do the drop refit work.

I would advise all to steer clear based on the quality of the work done. It is warrantied but I wish I'd stayed more local.

On a brighter note - before this occurred - we have been fettling the car at HLM & was able to produce another 7 horsepower - 312 BHP in the end (30th July 2011) - however we have made a significant torque increase across the board.

The red line was made last October at the RR day.
The blue line (312) was just the map alone (1.2 bar)
The green line was with 1/4 turn on a bleed valve fitted that day (then removed later). It made 1.4 bar on this run but Hamish & I both felt it was too much for an old engine & would only end in tears.

Significant amount of torque has resulted in a much faster 2nd gear & car is fierce!

I was going to keep this a secret until the Pod results came in but the busted G/B has pretty much put paid to that.

I was hoping to shave half a second off my season's best of 14.6 at 103.

I was pleased to see that the AFR was steady at 12.7 & that the AIT did not rise above 37 degrees (17 above the ambient, which was 20 that day).

I hope that once the gearbox is sorted again that she will put in a good performance at Silverstone.good result that dave the mods u have on it think i would be happy with it.

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 14:43
Televisions & everything - http://www.danz.co.uk/shop/Ultimate_Spa_236.php

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 14:47
good result that dave the mods u have on it think i would be happy with it.
The really annoying thing is that I will not get to test it at Santa Pod - unless I have a miracle turn around.

T5frankie
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 15:19
The really annoying thing is that I will not get to test it at Santa Pod - unless I have a miracle turn around.

we can race each other in spirit lol

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 15:25
You can have a magical engine & I can have a pretend transmission

siamblue
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 16:34
See Dave you are missing the point again, it is about the guys workmanship and after care not where he works from, we all have too start somewhere, you can lead a horse too water i suppose, carry on Dave.

Gary.

Mrs Wobbly
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 17:57
Sorry to spoil your fun but it's all irrelevant as (and said in my best growling voice) the next project is DECORATING THE BATHROOM.


I may be jesting but I speak the truth ;-)

Jamest5r
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 17:59
Welcome to married life Wobbly PMSL. :)

T5frankie
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 18:07
Sorry to spoil your fun but it's all irrelevant as (and said in my best growling voice) the next project is DECORATING THE BATHROOM.


I may be jesting but I speak the truth ;-)

pmsl

jardon
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 18:07
We did - http://www.prideengines.com/ - I would not feel comfortable using someone who does the majority of his work on a driveway. I am sure you are super happy with him & DTP seems very pleased with his 2.4 conversion - but that is just not me.

There is no point just sticking in some cheapy rods to run an extra 0.3 of a bar.

If a job is worth doing then it is worth doing well. The shopping list from Pride to build a proper engine with proper rods (not the ebay specials), flowed head comes in at just over 8K - at which point it is still sitting on a bench. Just ask RT - I am sure he has had the same experience. Then a 1500 quid turbo (maybe need a new DP) - then map it.

On an 11 year old C70 just to get a second off the 1/4 - nah it is just not worth it given that the car for 95% time is a road vehicle. I think about sitting on the other end of a 12-15K bill with my wife growling at me.

Gonna take my money & buy something we can both enjoy - like a 400hp jacuzzi.

I'm just trying to help Dave. I certainly agree that an £8000 bill for a new engine in a daily driver would be overkill.

Are the Ebay rods causing a problem? I haven't come across that I must be honest. If so then then a branded set is still not expensive.

A second off your quarter would make a significantly quicker car and 0.3 bar may well acheive that. It certainly doesn't cost 12-15k to get there - a stock engine with decent compression should suffice while you run a stock frame turbo ie: probably what you have now - check your compression before writing the engine off as knackered.

As a point of principle and to offer my experience - it is short sighted to assume that a small garage provides an inferior standard of work relative to a more corporate outfit no matter what discipline we are talking about. I wouldn't blithely trust any supplier big or small.

Try not to see advice and help as needling you about who works on the car. I've never met you but as a fellow forum member with a similar set up to me I think it's daft not to share information. Maybe I have misjudged the tone of your posts but thay seem a bit defensive - apologies if that's just me .

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 21:21
Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.

claymore
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 21:30
Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.
I'm using 20psi without a problem

jardon
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 21:40
Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.

Your car and Frankies are poles apart in terms of boost and knock control. I have a 1 bar actuator and peak boost of 1.4 bar. My R888's scrabble with a locked diff on dry tarmac. I'm not suggesting it can't be done but you would have to get things very wrong to bend a rod with a with your set up. It's the uncontrolled boost spikes that bend conrods with such turbos. Sympathetic mapping at low rpm will be fine in early and late T5's with a 19t - setting an MBC to 1.4 bar would be asking for trouble on a stock engine.

As I posted earlier I ran 1.5 bar for a while and occasionally saw 1.55 bar but as it was ~4000 rpm there was no issue. A 19t is not efficient at that boost but it will churn out 1.4 bar all day long.

T5frankie
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 21:50
Running 1.4 bar on a stock engine is risky is it not? Frankie saw off a rod doing that at the last Avon Park - though to be certain I don't know how much boost he ran that day.

i have been running 1.4 bar for months including racing at avon, york and santa pod my engine was always smokey and is at 207000 miles so was never gonna last for ever but i will only be going up to 16-17psi when my other engine is fitted

T5frankie
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 21:52
Your car and Frankies are poles apart in terms of boost and knock control. I have a 1 bar actuator and peak boost of 1.4 bar. My R888's scrabble with a locked diff on dry tarmac. I'm not suggesting it can't be done but you would have to get things very wrong to bend a rod with a with your set up. It's the uncontrolled boost spikes that bend conrods with such turbos. Sympathetic mapping at low rpm will be fine in early and late T5's with a 19t - setting an MBC to 1.4 bar would be asking for trouble on a stock engine.

As I posted earlier I ran 1.5 bar for a while and occasionally saw 1.55 bar but as it was ~4000 rpm there was no issue. A 19t is not efficient at that boost but it will churn out 1.4 bar all day long.

my car never had any boost spikes with the mbc but did with the remapped ecu alone and i never hit high boost until after 4000rpms

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 22:01
I'm using 20psi without a problem
That is 1.37 bar - which is marginal to my mind. I guess I could tweak the actuator 1/2 a turn.

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 22:10
Your car and Frankies are poles apart in terms of boost and knock control. I have a 1 bar actuator and peak boost of 1.4 bar. My R888's scrabble with a locked diff on dry tarmac. I'm not suggesting it can't be done but you would have to get things very wrong to bend a rod with a with your set up. It's the uncontrolled boost spikes that bend conrods with such turbos. Sympathetic mapping at low rpm will be fine in early and late T5's with a 19t - setting an MBC to 1.4 bar would be asking for trouble on a stock engine.

As I posted earlier I ran 1.5 bar for a while and occasionally saw 1.55 bar but as it was ~4000 rpm there was no issue. A 19t is not efficient at that boost but it will churn out 1.4 bar all day long.
Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by a 1 bar actuator. The actuator reacts on a 3 - 5 psi control signal from the BCS - a down tuned version of the actual boost pressure. If you have a 1 bar actuator then the wastegate would never open right?

claymore
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 22:11
That is 1.37 bar - which is marginal to my mind. I guess I could tweak the actuator 1/2 a turn.
lol, if you want to be that accurate, I am actually running 21 to 22psi which is more like 1.5bar the engine is also on 220k

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 22:19
I will check my compression & look at 1/2 a turn on the waste gate.

jardon
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 22:48
In the absence of a bcs the turbo would only boost to the spring rating of the actuator. Adding a bcs allows the ecu to bleed off boost into the intake and 'hides' the boost from your actuator. At ecu determined levels of boost the bcs allows boost to the actuator and opens the wastegate. So in simple terms if the ecu has 1.4 bar as a peak then the bcs will only allow the actuator to open at that point. Running a higher actuator pre-tension or stronger spring will mean the ecu has less safety margin because the minmum level of boost is higher - the maximum is unchanged if the spring pressure is less than the programmed maximum. So my bcs will only be able to control boost when it is above 1 bar (not true as I lose 0.1 bar in the intercooler). Adding half a turn will make the car boost more aggressively as the minimum boost is increased - it will not increase peak boost because your ecu will still limit boost to whatever is mapped (unless your actuator is really weak and allowing the wastegate to blow open as flow gets higher).

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 22:59
Sorry I always believed that the BCS - actuator relationship was a scaled down version of true boost pressure.

Standard setup is 3 to 5 psi depending on the age of the diaphragm. I dont remember if that is plus or minus. At that point the wastegate is shut. As boost increases from the induction system the ECU reads it & then uses a scale down version of the boost pressure to open it. I didn't think (I may be wrong) that it was using a 1 to 1 relationship.

E.g. if the map says open at 1.2 bar then it uses only a few psi to operate the actuator.

However I could be entirely incorrect in this understanding.

jardon
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 23:38
Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by a 1 bar actuator. The actuator reacts on a 3 - 5 psi control signal from the BCS - a down tuned version of the actual boost pressure. If you have a 1 bar actuator then the wastegate would never open right?

Try to think of your bcs differently. At 0% duty it allows the compressor housing to communicate directly with the actuator and boost is limited to actuator pressure. At 100% duty the bcs prevents the compressor housing communicating with the actuator and boost will rise until the duty cycle drops or the wastegate blows open. The 3-5 psi figure you refer to is the stock actuator pre-tension from volvo ie: when the turbo is spooling boost cannot be less than 3-5 psi at WOT. So there is no 3-5 psi signal from the bcs just differing levels of communication between the conpressor and actuator depending on the activity of the bcs 'gate'.

Wobbly Dave
Wednesday 10th August 2011, 23:53
Sorry i should have said pre-tension. But if you set the pre-tension to 1bar - then don't you run the risk of running a lot of boost low down with no hope of controlling it?

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 00:09
Sorry I always believed that the BCS - actuator relationship was a scaled down version of true boost pressure.

Standard setup is 3 to 5 psi depending on the age of the diaphragm. I dont remember if that is plus or minus. At that point the wastegate is shut. As boost increases from the induction system the ECU reads it & then uses a scale down version of the boost pressure to open it. I didn't think (I may be wrong) that it was using a 1 to 1 relationship.

E.g. if the map says open at 1.2 bar then it uses only a few psi to operate the actuator.

However I could be entirely incorrect in this understanding.

If you attach a pump to your actuator nipple and start inflating it will open at 4.3 psi if exactly set to what Volvo state. So once you 4.3 psi of boost in the compressor housing the wastegate starts to open - unless the bcs stops the compressor talking to the actuator. If you added a few turns (I added 3 full turns to mine but it was still blowing open due to being knackered) then you would need to inflate at the actuator nipple a bit more to overcome the increased spring pre-tension - say 8 psi for example. Now the bcs may try to limit boost to 4.3 psi at a particular throttle opening/load point but it can't - which may be bad but in reality the car just feels more aggressive and responds more to small pedal inputs. Once compressor pressure reaches 8 psi the wastegate will open - it is not limited to a 3-5 psi input. My actuator stays closed until the pump reaches 14 psi but it is a Forge part not a fettled volvo item. With an 8 psi forge spring the wastegate was blowing open - unexpected but I suspect the Forge diapragm responds differently to pressure hence the need for a stronger spring (my estimation of what is happening). You would assume this makes the car edgy with light pedal inputs but Marco has (at my nagging) altered the pedal to etm relationship such that pedal response is quite linear. I have to be aware that my ecu cannot reduce boost below ~ 12 psi and this does reduce the margin of safety. The turbo is not efficient enough at low rpm to make 1 bar so no issue there (no bent rods). There is a greater potential for problems at the other end of the rpm range - if my fuel pump fails and I run lean then the ecu has reduced ability to cut boost and stop detonation (but the ecu can close the etm so not terribly risky). My Walbro has failed so I'm currently running a new stock fuel pump again and indeed it did run lean above 5000 rpm at WOT. I have temporarily unplugged the bcs so the boost never rises above ~12 psi until I fit another Walbro or something else I have my eye on. It does not appear to be an issue on hard track or road and I have run 1.4 bar for 30000 miles with little mechanical sympathy. Hope this helps.

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 00:31
Sorry i should have said pre-tension. But if you set the pre-tension to 1bar - then don't you run the risk of running a lot of boost low down with no hope of controlling it?

It certainly wouldn't do to run a 2 bar spring but a 1 bar spring only allows manifold pressure to reach ~12 psi. There is some pressure loss between the compressor and manifold due to restrictions and bends in the intercooler etc. 12 psi is not enough to cause a low rpm issue with a 19t - it is not really spooling hard until 3000 rpm and at that point most ME7 maps are running 18 psi anyway - all my stage 1's (autologic, rica and mte) were running 1.2 bar by 3000 rpm and into positive boost from. 2000 rpm.

siamblue
Thursday 11th August 2011, 00:32
Jardon my pre tension i set at 7psi on my 19t and my base boost setting is 14psi that is only on the wastegate spring, but the car is actually mapped for 17psi.
Gary.

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 00:37
Jardon my pre tension i set at 7psi on my 19t and my base boost setting is 14psi that is only on the wastegate spring, but the car is actually mapped for 17psi.
Gary.

Hi Gary. Unless we are talking about different things pre-tension and base boost are the same thing ie: if your actuator starts to open at 7 psi (its pre-tension) then minimum (base) boost at WOT is 7 psi. The bcs is what the ecu uses via it's remap to allow 17 psi. Not sure how 14psi fits into the picture (but it is late!).

hamish
Thursday 11th August 2011, 01:50
Sorry i should have said pre-tension. But if you set the pre-tension to 1bar - then don't you run the risk of running a lot of boost low down with no hope of controlling it?

That's right Dave. But Forge do make exceedingly shiny actuators. :fart:

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 09:47
That's right Dave. But Forge do make exceedingly shiny actuators. :fart:

I admit I was taken by the shinyness and the fact that not many others are running them (plenty in the US but not in the UK). It was an easy decision though - the Forge is rebuildable and cheaper than a 300/70 Volvo part. My 19t was from SW Autos originally and was running a 216/60 actuator - not the right one and very tired. When we removed the actuator and pulled on the rod there was no resistance at all - I eventually had 5 full turns of pre-tension to achieve target boost (1.4 bar). The wastegate was blowing open from around 4500 rpm and continued to do so with the Forge actuator when fitted with an 8 psi spring - again, this surprised me initially as 8 psi is well above the 4.3 psi that Volvo start with. The internals of the Forge are different sizes to a stock actuator (diaphragm diameter, etc) so it would be no shock if it behaved differently when you think through it. The 14 psi spring got me back to where the failing stock actuator had been over 1 year previously. My advice to anybody looking to buy a new actuator is go for the Forge but buy the 8 and 14 psi springs - fit the weakest and work from that point. They don't behave as a stock actuator does for a given pre-tension ie: a 1 bar spring sounds heavy duty but it behaves well in my application.

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 11th August 2011, 11:32
I too am a bit of an engine magpie - I would worry for you because it was cheaper & shinier & that the septics are using it. Do not take this as a derrogatory remark. I hope everything holds together.

Buying stuff that the septics use is always a painful and not necessarily rewarding experience. I know this - IPD ARB bushings gave out within 3 years. Short ram air filter went rusty. IPD HD ARB droplinks did not last any longer than the Volvo OEM items.

I am getting a man to look at the ME7 pipe work & should be able to get a RIP kit with properly mounted sensors - if you are interested

Oh look 10K posts!

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 12:36
I too am a bit of an engine magpie - I would worry for you because it was cheaper & shinier & that the septics are using it. Do not take this as a derrogatory remark. I hope everything holds together.

Buying stuff that the septics use is always a painful and not necessarily rewarding experience. I know this - IPD ARB bushings gave out within 3 years. Short ram air filter went rusty. IPD HD ARB droplinks did not last any longer than the Volvo OEM items.

I am getting a man to look at the ME7 pipe work & should be able to get a RIP kit with properly mounted sensors - if you are interested

Oh look 10K posts!

Congrats on the 10k! My intercooler has different inlet and outlet positions to yours so there is no real gain for me in RIP - but cheers.

IPD do seem to have taken a bit of a bashing on the drop links and HD TCV etc but I do like their ARB's. As you say shiney and "uprated" isn't always best but so far so good. Ashok (Pyaap) provided Forge with a range of TD04 turbos and they have fabricated brackets to fit both straight and angled flange variants with their T2 actuators (T3's are the larger diaphragm actuators that Forge make). I don't see a 19t version on the website but bearing in mind the brackets would fit a range of turbos this may be the one:

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=250101&product=FMACV40

and the spring choices are:

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0019&product=FMAS049

I have a blue spring - an opening pressure of 14 psi and fully open pressure of 18 psi. As already stated this translates to manifold pressure of ~12 psi when running with the actuator alone so the spring rates quoted by Forge do not have a direct relationship with boost - in my application at least.

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 13:17
my car never had any boost spikes with the mbc but did with the remapped ecu alone and i never hit high boost until after 4000rpms

Cheers Frank, I wasn't getting at your setup - just making the point that ME7 offers significantly greater engine protection (not that you should tune irresponsibly and rely on that). With 4.3 and 4.4 cars boost control will be erratic if mapped incorrectly - this may have been your issue. An MBC will reduce fluctuations in boost but eliminates any protection the ECU may try to exercise by reducing boost. In light of that I would be setting it lower as you have already stated. Although I run a "heavy duty" actuator my ecu can pull boost back to 12 psi if it gets scared whereas an MBC allows that 1.4 bar to wreak havoc if things go wrong.

10k posts here I come - just on Daves thread!

siamblue
Thursday 11th August 2011, 13:28
Hi Gary. Unless we are talking about different things pre-tension and base boost are the same thing ie: if your actuator starts to open at 7 psi (its pre-tension) then minimum (base) boost at WOT is 7 psi. The bcs is what the ecu uses via it's remap to allow 17 psi. Not sure how 14psi fits into the picture (but it is late!).

Sorry it was late lol.. I meant to say boost was peaking at 14psi when the actuator was set at 7psi opening. I am not sure whether to turn it down abit a nd let.the evc6 take more.control.of the boost, what are your thoughts? Car holds 20psi + if I wanted it too.


Gary

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 13:54
Sorry it was late lol.. I meant to say boost was peaking at 14psi when the actuator was set at 7psi opening. I am not sure whether to turn it down abit a nd let.the evc6 take more.control.of the boost, what are your thoughts? Car holds 20psi + if I wanted it too.


Gary

Hi Gary, I am out of my depth on EBC's and how they are setup - I think some are more advanced than others with ability to control boost at different rpm settings aren't they? Definitely not me to ask on this for a complete answer but if it's working then I'd leave it as is - I'm guessing less boost means running richer and more boost means leaner with an earlier car so if the fuelling is mapped for a particular level of boost then playing with it either way is not ideal? If the actuator opening pressure is 7psi then the EVC is letting it build to 14psi. What happens if you disconnect the ebc and let the compressor run direct to the actuator - it should boost to ~7psi not 14. Being an ME7 girlie-boy I don't know many folks with an EBC but Tim uses his to good effect and Irf made 340bhp at 1.3 bar with an 18t/flowed head using an ebc.

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 11th August 2011, 15:22
When we get the M56 back on - God only knows how long that will be - we will have a play on the dyno & tweak the actuator a bit more & see if I can't get & sustain 1.4 bar - track the IAT's more carefully & see if we can sustain the torque through the rev range. I have a suspicion that it may bubble just like with the bleed valve. Only time will tell.

I have a feeling though that the map will not allow it.

I am also thinking of putting in some additional under bonnet ducting or redesign the sump area to increase a venturi style effect to improve air flow through the FMIC. My thoughts are that if I can significantly decrease the under engine pressure relative to the engine bay - then this will effectively suck the air through the IC - rather than it bouncing of the block. Make the air flow cleaner. Either that or work out a bypass switch for the rad fan (in parallel to the thermostatic control). Barometric sensors - ebay here we come!

smithy
Thursday 11th August 2011, 15:35
dave dave dave where did you get the idea that it is going to cost you 8k for an engine rebuild.99 percent of rods are forged in china and sent back to the companys for finishing off .i have k1 part of carrielly rods company and they are running 700 bhp evos on the track all day long with no problems.and you are only looking for 350 bhp power for everyday driving and some track use anyway.and personally i would not want to run anymore than 350 whp anyway no point whatever gearbox you are using and your dmf and clutch would not take it anyway.if i was you i would put some rods in it and pistons if you need them and have the engine checked over or put a 2.4 in it.get hamish to send you 19t to his turbo people and have it machined to take bigger wheels like 20g or garrett ,bolt back together no need for dp or nothing just remap and you are running greens anyway so fueling not a problem.or just leave alone and up the boost lower down like you have and see how it goes.but whatever you if will not cost a fortune and bot 8k lol.and if you didnot want to do the 19t use hamishes hybrid turbo that a good unit too

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 15:42
When we get the M56 back on - God only knows how long that will be - we will have a play on the dyno & tweak the actuator a bit more & see if I can't get & sustain 1.4 bar - track the IAT's more carefully & see if we can sustain the torque through the rev range. I have a suspicion that it may bubble just like with the bleed valve. Only time will tell.

I have a feeling though that the map will not allow it.

I am also thinking of putting in some additional under bonnet ducting or redesign the sump area to increase a venturi style effect to improve air flow through the FMIC. My thoughts are that if I can significantly decrease the under engine pressure relative to the engine bay - then this will effectively suck the air through the IC - rather than it bouncing of the block. Make the air flow cleaner. Either that or work out a bypass switch for the rad fan (in parallel to the thermostatic control). Barometric sensors - ebay here we come!

Although there is a chance that you may gain peak boost by tightening the actuator (and I agree you should check as mine was slowly giving up) the map is what will decide how much boost you make. You couldn't get it to make significantly more boost than it's expecting without some of the engine protection kicking in - ME7 is fundamentally built that way. But try it all the same as actuator springs do wear and there may be some lost torque waiting to appear.

I fitted an engine tray recently as my car didn't come with one - in theory this improves air flow through the IC and under the car but I can't honestly say I understand how. All cooling is good though.

jardon
Thursday 11th August 2011, 15:53
dave dave dave where did you get the idea that it is going to cost you 8k for an engine rebuild.99 percent of rods are forged in china and sent back to the companys for finishing off .i have k1 part of carrielly rods company and they are running 700 bhp evos on the track all day long with no problems.and you are only looking for 350 bhp power for everyday driving and some track use anyway.and personally i would not want to run anymore than 350 whp anyway no point whatever gearbox you are using and your dmf and clutch would not take it anyway.if i was you i would put some rods in it and pistons if you need them and have the engine checked over or put a 2.4 in it.get hamish to send you 19t to his turbo people and have it machined to take bigger wheels like 20g or garrett ,bolt back together no need for dp or nothing just remap and you are running greens anyway so fueling not a problem.or just leave alone and up the boost lower down like you have and see how it goes.but whatever you if will not cost a fortune and bot 8k lol.and if you didnot want to do the 19t use hamishes hybrid turbo that a good unit too

I agree with all that except for the greens - they are totally inadequate in the pre-facelift ME7 T5's in anything more than a stage 2. The fuel system is "returnless" and fuel pressure remains static at 3.8 bar irrespective of manifold pressure. Logging injector opening times is very revealling - even VXR injectors are at 100% duty from ~5000 rpm in my car. They are fine in the earlier and later T5's as they have mechanical or electronic fuel pressure regulation on boost.

Dave may not be in that territory (yet) as his car isn't really flowing much air/fuel but maxing that 19t out will. The stock fuel pump will also be at or beyond it's flow rate with the 19t going full pelt - I speak from experience and I have watched fuel pressure drop on a gauge as we rev past ~5000 rpm.

I don't think Dave has plans for bigger turbos but he would require bigger injectors and a Walbro or equivalent.