Silver C70 T5 - Manual - 400BHP

[smithy]

I agree with all that except for the greens - they are totally inadequate in the pre-facelift ME7 T5's in anything more than a stage 2. The fuel system is "returnless" and fuel pressure remains static at 3.8 bar irrespective of manifold pressure. Logging injector opening times is very revealling - even VXR injectors are at 100% duty from ~5000 rpm in my car. They are fine in the earlier and later T5's as they have mechanical or electronic fuel pressure regulation on boost.

Dave may not be in that territory (yet) as his car isn't really flowing much air/fuel but maxing that 19t out will. The stock fuel pump will also be at or beyond it's flow rate with the 19t going full pelt - I speak from experience and I have watched fuel pressure drop on a gauge as we rev past ~5000 rpm.

I don't think Dave has plans for bigger turbos but he would require bigger injectors and a Walbro or equivalent.

i dont know much about the me7s regarding mapping etc but at 3.8 bar vxrs will be running at nearly 550cc so they should fuel a 19t on full flow no probs i would of thought and if the fuel pump insnt man enough them put a 004 dosch unit in there.this is why i like pre me7 because vxrs will fuel some big turbos no probs

[Wobbly Dave]

I am thinking of the bypass switch particularly for the fireup lane where ambient's can be quite high. My IAT's at tickover without any fan running are around 7 to 8 degrees higher than the ambient. Cheap & easy mod to do I think will be to allow the rad fan to run.

I am also thinking about getting some thermal insulation for the gasket between the inlet manifold & the block to reduce conducted heat. I think this will be minimal but relatively inexpensive.

As air passes under the car it should be travelling faster than the air under the bonnet. To encourage this with a sheet of plastic I think I could curve it in such a way to smooth & increase the airflow through the IC. Can't hurt can it.

[jardon]

i dont know much about the me7s regarding mapping etc but at 3.8 bar vxrs will be running at nearly 550cc so they should fuel a 19t on full flow no probs i would of thought and if the fuel pump insnt man enough them put a 004 dosch unit in there.this is why i like pre me7 because vxrs will fuel some big turbos no probs

You are absolutely right when considering earlier and later T5's but at 1.4 bar my fuel pressure (and Daves) is 3.8 - 1.4 = 2.4 bar. Pop that through a flow calculator and it's a very different story. On boost the phase 1 vehicles have a vacuum line to the FPR which raises fuel pressure in tandem with manifold pressure to maintain 3 bar above manifold pressure. The pre-facelift ME7 T5's have no control over fuel pressure and therefore on boost you have a bet fall in fuel pressure - shocking but true. With 650cc injectors my duty cycle at full flow is ~85%.

[Wobbly Dave]

I agree with all that except for the greens - they are totally inadequate in the pre-facelift ME7 T5's in anything more than a stage 2. The fuel system is "returnless" and fuel pressure remains static at 3.8 bar irrespective of manifold pressure. Logging injector opening times is very revealling - even VXR injectors are at 100% duty from ~5000 rpm in my car. They are fine in the earlier and later T5's as they have mechanical or electronic fuel pressure regulation on boost.

Dave may not be in that territory (yet) as his car isn't really flowing much air/fuel but maxing that 19t out will. The stock fuel pump will also be at or beyond it's flow rate with the 19t going full pelt - I speak from experience and I have watched fuel pressure drop on a gauge as we rev past ~5000 rpm.

I don't think Dave has plans for bigger turbos but he would require bigger injectors and a Walbro or equivalent.
I am keeping my current 19 until it expires - I have the greens (I upgraded from blue injectors in 2009/10).

I will remember to measure & report my findings on the duty cycle. All I can say at the moment is that with the 1.2 bar at WOT - the AFR was stable & adequate.

[Wobbly Dave]

I am keeping my current 19 until it expires - I have the greens (I upgraded from blue injectors in 2009/10).

I will remember to measure & report my findings on the duty cycle. All I can say at the moment is that with the 1.2 bar at WOT - the AFR was stable & adequate.
I have to report that I am not entirely convinced of the TORQUE application on my android phone - it seemed to produce some spurious numbers e.g. 32 psi boost ???!!

Connectivity over long periods also seems to be an issue.

I may yet turn to a wired USB connection & use a laptop instead.

[turbo-tuner]

I have to report that I am not entirely convinced of the TORQUE application on my android phone - it seemed to produce some spurious numbers e.g. 32 psi boost ???!!

Connectivity over long periods also seems to be an issue.

I may yet turn to a wired USB connection & use a laptop instead.

32 psi = 2.2 bar

Take away 1.0 bar atmospheric pressure and you get 1.2 bar (@manifold) which is probably correct.

If my theory is correct, then it should read approx 14.5 psi @ idle. If it reads zero, then my theory is ££££££! :)

[JT]

32 psi = 2.2 bar

Take away 1.0 bar atmospheric pressure and you get 1.2 bar (@manifold) which is probably correct.

If my theory is correct, then it should read approx 14.5 psi @ idle. If it reads zero, then my theory is ££££££! :)

quality answer!! lol

[Wobbly Dave]

32 psi = 2.2 bar

Take away 1.0 bar atmospheric pressure and you get 1.2 bar (@manifold) which is probably correct.

If my theory is correct, then it should read approx 14.5 psi @ idle. If it reads zero, then my theory is ££££££! :)
It's ££££££ Adam - as it read negative (vacuum) when off boost. I think it is a software fault? possibly??

[turbo-tuner]

It's ££££££ Adam - as it read negative (vacuum) when off boost. I think it is a software fault? possibly??

or maybe some calibration setting in the software?

[Wobbly Dave]

possibly - however I fear that I may still have to fit a god-aweful a-column boost gauge to be certain. I hate them.

Dyno run will confirm to be sure.

[Wobbly Dave]

Well it has been a damn depressing 2.5 months but finally the C70 is back on the road.

The full "breakdown" goes as follows.
Bought a 2nd hand gearbox in January & sent it to Competitive Transmission Services in Markyate. They fitted a quaiffe diff & were supposed to refurbish the box.
This box never made it out of the garage - bearly down the road actually before it started playing up. It was notchy & kept dropping out of 2nd gear.
In April after some long winded discussions this box was returned to CTS, who refused to bear the consequential losses (of dropping & shipping the gearbox back).
The original gearbox was then used once the fault was found in the first replacement box. This box had run for over 150K without issue. The LSD was transferred & the box built back up again.
The 2nd attempt lasted from late April to near the end of July (only 1 drag race meeting attended) - before grinding noises in the 1st 4 gears started to manifest.
There have been some arguements over who is responsible for what bits within the box. The internals had overheated somewhat & that friction has cooked it. Debate will continue for sometime as to why & what - but ultimately I don't think I got a fair deal or what I asked for originally.
The upshot of this was I didn't get what I paid for from CTS & eventually just asked for my money back & return of the parts. CTS asked for a stripping charge & return postage but not without making me wait just shy of 4 weeks to return the parts.
In the meantime I decided enough was enough - bought another new quaiffe diff & another 2nd hand gearbox & sent it elsewhere to get the job done properly.

the transmission project must be running close to 3K since Januar. I hope to pursue and recover at least some of this outlay. This may require some additional hassle with a small claims court but I hope for a more amicable solution.

However I am very pleased to have the C70 home. I forgot how quick she is. I felt initially like this isnt my car. Drove quite gingerly home - listening intently for any untoward sounds. I am looking forward to the Oulton Park track day.

It is very cool having 2 Volvos on the driveway.

[t5_monkey]

Well it has been a damn depressing 2.5 months but finally the C70 is back on the road.

The full "breakdown" goes as follows.
Bought a 2nd hand gearbox in January & sent it to Competitive Transmission Services in Markyate. They fitted a quaiffe diff & were supposed to refurbish the box.
This box never made it out of the garage - bearly down the road actually before it started playing up. It was notchy & kept dropping out of 2nd gear.
In April after some long winded discussions this box was returned to CTS, who refused to bear the consequential losses (of dropping & shipping the gearbox back).
The original gearbox was then used once the fault was found in the first replacement box. This box had run for over 150K without issue. The LSD was transferred & the box built back up again.
The 2nd attempt lasted from late April to near the end of July (only 1 drag race meeting attended) - before grinding noises in the 1st 4 gears started to manifest.
There have been some arguements over who is responsible for what bits within the box. The internals had overheated somewhat & that friction has cooked it. Debate will continue for sometime as to why & what - but ultimately I don't think I got a fair deal or what I asked for originally.
The upshot of this was I didn't get what I paid for from CTS & eventually just asked for my money back & return of the parts. CTS asked for a stripping charge & return postage but not without making me wait just shy of 4 weeks to return the parts.
In the meantime I decided enough was enough - bought another new quaiffe diff & another 2nd hand gearbox & sent it elsewhere to get the job done properly.

the transmission project must be running close to 3K since Januar. I hope to pursue and recover at least some of this outlay. This may require some additional hassle with a small claims court but I hope for a more amicable solution.

However I am very pleased to have the C70 home. I forgot how quick she is. I felt initially like this isnt my car. Drove quite gingerly home - listening intently for any untoward sounds. I am looking forward to the Oulton Park track day.

It is very cool having 2 Volvos on the driveway.

Pull the directors report on their company to get their full names.

Use the electoral roll to find out where they live from their full name.

Send a polite letter saying you unfortunately must insist on a full refund - to their home address.

That usually works :)

Failing that - hope you get it all sorted - keep the faith as your C70 is awesome :D

[jardon]

Glad it's up and running again Dave. What gearbox oil are you running?

[Wobbly Dave]

I'd have to look it up or ask Hamish. I believe it is OEM Volvo gearbox oil.

[jardon]

You may wish to canvas opinion on gear/transmission oils for high performance applications. I run Redline Heavyweight Shockproof because of the Gripper but their 75/90NS may be an option. Quaife say use the manufacturers recommended oil. Just be sure it's not a budget oem. It's going to be hard to determine why it overheated but some oils stay stable to higher temps than others. I know how anal you are about engine oil (as am I) so thought I'd mention it.

[Wobbly Dave]

I only ever use top quality lubricants. oo er!

[p fandango]

do you think their was any issues with the diff itself? I've never heard of any previous problems with Quaife

[Wobbly Dave]

The quaiffe diff is fine. There were a number of opinions expressed about the 2nd demise - none of them diff related - it was more to do with the reconstruction & principally the alignment of bearings (which were supposed to be new) being incorrectly installed. TBH it is a little beyond my level of engineering knowledge but I think the consensus was it was put together too tightly - which would explain the additional friction.

This is neither here nor there - fact is it failed within 2 months of a refurb & even with the dozen or so drag strip runs, I don't believe it was completed with due skill or care.

[lance]

Good luck with the claim and looking forward to seeing her in action at Olton park

[Wobbly Dave]

Gonna be a fantastic day - just praying everything hold together.

[smithy]

The quaiffe diff is fine. There were a number of opinions expressed about the 2nd demise - none of them diff related - it was more to do with the reconstruction & principally the alignment of bearings (which were supposed to be new) being incorrectly installed. TBH it is a little beyond my level of engineering knowledge but I think the consensus was it was put together too tightly - which would explain the additional friction.

This is neither here nor there - fact is it failed within 2 months of a refurb & even with the dozen or so drag strip runs, I don't believe it was completed with due skill or care.

im glad you have your car mate you have had alot of hassle and expense .now enjoy yourself and stop breaking it lol.now i want my car back on the road now boo hoo ,ive forgot what its like to drive a turbo

[Wobbly Dave]

I saw yours being mapped yesterday. Anyway you are a fine one to talk when it comes to breaking Volvos LOL.

[smithy]

I saw yours being mapped yesterday. Anyway you are a fine one to talk when it comes to breaking Volvos LOL.

i have not broken my car mate i am improving it by mapping the fuel system so i dont overfuel it .but it it did drive everyday though .lets see what happens when i get the car back to see if i have power on boost .then no one will beat the oldtech 940 .

[Wobbly Dave]

There was a mention that you'd blown the bottom out of it? However I am keen to see the full potential of the old skool RWD

[smithy]

There was a mention that you'd blown the bottom out of it? However I am keen to see the full potential of the old skool RWD

no i didnot blow the bottom end out i built a new forged bottom end but it was not right so i took it back out and put another engine in for now till i find what the problem is with the forged one and then that baby will be back in .the engine in the car at mo is totally standard, the big valve head and cam is bolted to the forged engine .

[Wobbly Dave]

End of last week Betsy began to develop a rotational humming noise coming from the N/S. Bear in mind the gearbox drama I've had all year - with version 3 of the Quaiffe LSD/M56L combo now up & running for not much more than a month. The noise - which was most prevalent at 35 - 40mph was directly proportional to the rotation speed of the wheel, was not that loud - but it is one of the "o-oh" noises that you know will only get worse with age.

Took Betsy to HLM - the guys were not sure if it was a diff bearing or the wheel bearing. So starting with the easiest fix first - we changed the OSF hub & we went out again. To say I had my heart in my mouth would be an understatement.

To my great relief the noise had gone - & the gearbox can stay where it is for now. Cheers to Hamish & the guys for sorting me out at such short notice. I am sure they were as relieved as I that the box wasn't coming out again for the 4th time this year.

[Murphy]

Great news Dave - lucky boy!

[lance]

Have to say I was impressed with Betsy when I went in her at Oulton, just a shame the coolant light came on

[Wobbly Dave]

I think I may have a leaky heater matrix - it has never been changed. I seem to get from the max to min/warning light more often & usually takes 3 weeks. There is no oil/water mix - I doubt the cylinder head gasket is on its way. Well at least I hope so.

[p fandango]

i've only just noticed you've gone to a M56L, what do you think to the different ratios in it?

[Wobbly Dave]

Not that I can tell. M56L was AFAIK the original. I know that version 1 box was slightly different as the push rod arm (the vertical one) was a different length to that of Betsy's original box. Not sure which box is in there now - I am just guessing that it will be M56L as supplied by Salvo.

Sorry but I don't have the tech spec on the differences.

[p fandango]

Not that I can tell. M56L was AFAIK the original. I know that version 1 box was slightly different as the push rod arm (the vertical one) was a different length to that of Betsy's original box. Not sure which box is in there now - I am just guessing that it will be M56L as supplied by Salvo.

Sorry but I don't have the tech spec on the differences.
i thought all T-5's had M56H's. The actual gear ratios were only different on 1st & 2nd (L lower ratio, H higher) but the L normally had a different final ratio than we have. If you've managed to get one with the same final drive you might not of noticed any difference which might explain it. I've not managed to figure out where the final drive ratio is written on a gearbox

[Wobbly Dave]

I will have a look at the housing what is sitting in the shed - from version 1.

[Wobbly Dave]

Fitted R-Style gauge rings to the instrument binancle - so Betsy has yet more bling. I think they look smart.

Been doing some more testing now I have fitted new MAP & IAT sensors to the inlet manifold pipe. The logged figures appear more accurate to what I'd seen on the old ones - about 1 psi less. The new BT/ODBII does seem to have reduced some of the data lag - though I think I am limited within the bounds of the BT bandwidth.

I think for total accuracy I will have to use the software/laptop option & connect via USB to the ECU. The max polling interval with TORQUE's data logger is only once every second, which is disappointing. GPS speed logging seems particularly laggy. Track recorder values do not render properly to the PC - however they do look ok on the phone (matching the recorded sound)

I have reached the conclusion however - that there is not much more than I can do to the tuning in Betsy's current configuration. I may yet look to a more youthful engine & a turbo change for next season.

I have been uming & aring about buying one of these to further improve throttle response
http://www.ecotek.eu/CB-26P.htm

Anyone have any thoughts - they seem expensive for the limited application on a trailing throttle - so I am not sure.

[M-R-P]

Three letters Dave, N O S ;)

[Wobbly Dave]

At the moment I am leaning towards getting a younger ME7 engine and throwing some forged rods in it

[smithy]

forged rods and modded 19t with 20g wheels and bored out run it at 1.6 bar that should make a big difference and would not cost you a fortune ether just and revised map mate.

[T5frankie]

forged rods and modded 19t with 20g wheels and bored out run it at 1.6 bar that should make a big difference and would not cost you a fortune ether just and revised map mate.

who would do that?

[smithy]

who would do that?

i dont know mate lol

[t5_monkey]

forged rods and modded 19t with 20g wheels and bored out run it at 1.6 bar that should make a big difference and would not cost you a fortune ether just and revised map mate.

Is that what Jardon has on his?

[T5frankie]

i dont know mate lol

yes you do lol

[smithy]

yes you do lol

no mate i dont know what you are talking about all the garages do all my work i know nothing lol

[T5frankie]

no mate i dont know what you are talking about all the garages do all my work i know nothing lol

ok turbo technics i get you :wink:

[smithy]

who are those mate ive never heard of them mate can you pass me the number please lol,from what i have heard turbo dynamics do a similar sort of thing aswell thats who hlm deal with hint hint.but all this info is only what i see on the internet and on forums me dont know nothing lol,come on dave you know you want to.

[T5frankie]

who are those mate ive never heard of them mate can you pass me the number please lol,from what i have heard turbo dynamics do a similar sort of thing aswell thats who hlm deal with hint hint.but all this info is only what i see on the internet and on forums me dont know nothing lol,come on dave you know you want to.

you ok mate?

[smithy]

you ok mate?

why just got up brains a cabbage thinking about its aways a cabbage lately lol.

[Wobbly Dave]

I was hoping for a bit of technical input on the donor engine strip down. I have been looking at rods - but I am uncertain where to get them from. I am not certain if the bottom half of the B5234T3 engine is the same.as the older 2319cc B5234T5 engine (pre 99).

I am also wondering about the health of the donor engine once the head is off. Do I need a superdooper headgasket or will a replacement OEM do - should I get the head skimmed - is a headgasket reusable - are the headbolts a once only use?

What other internal components should be done? Can some of the more experience members (James & Smithy etc) characterise these into 3 categories (Essential, recommended & nice to have).

I do not intend to do very much with the donor head.

The main driver for this is that Betsy's engine is old. She is due another cambelt - so I would rather spend that new cambelt money on the donor engine.

[smithy]

if i was in your shoes with new baby and all due soon mate options are.second hand me7 engine easy to come by and not badly priced ether,set of rods from ths or similar and check condition of standard pistons .if pistons are good just change rods with new bearings and check the other bearings and components whilst there.bearings are normally pretty good and strong.have the head tested and use oem gasket pretty good for high boost .i recon engine rods and gasket set and put together for you budget for 1500 pounds mate.19t modded turbo using your turbo 350 pounds and revised map hlm to price .hope this helps mate.also check vvt pullys too might need new ones too

[Wobbly Dave]

Would you be prepared to come round & check things over - I am reasonable good with spanners but would appreciate a second pair of eyes once taken apart. I have found these...

http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com/Volvo-2324---25-5-Cylinder---Carrillo-Con-Rod-Set

what do you think?

[Jamest5r]

I agree with most of what Smithy has said :) however from my experience's i would always go down the route of having the block rebored and new pistons as well, no matter how good the 2nd hand block you get it will defo have some bore wear.

So what i done was Kalmar rods £380 and they come with the bolts.
Volvo 81.4mm pistons(mehle) with rings around £500.
Head Bolts(dont even think about reusing the old ones)
Gasket set.
Timing belt kit.
Water pump.

Then take it to an engine builder get him to check the bearing's etc(hopefully all ok) and bore it and build it, cost me around £500.

You are looking at the best part of 2k to get something that is worth doing.

[M-R-P]

I was hoping for a bit of technical input on the donor engine strip down. I have been looking at rods - but I am uncertain where to get them from. I am not certain if the bottom half of the B5234T3 engine is the same.as the older 2319cc B5234T5 engine (pre 99).


Don't know of it would help or confuse the situation but mine is a B5234T3 and is 2319cc.
From what I have learned on this forum, the bottom ends havnt changed since the t5 lump started. Happy to be corrected tho ;)

[p fandango]

I was hoping for a bit of technical input on the donor engine strip down. I have been looking at rods - but I am uncertain where to get them from. I am not certain if the bottom half of the B5234T3 engine is the same.as the older 2319cc B5234T5 engine (pre 99).
it wasn't till 2002- they changed to the longer rods & shorter piston, also got the lighter crank. In late 99 Volvo started changing the heads over from hydraulic to solid valve lifters. The heads with solid lifters have approximately 20% larger intake ports, modified coolant and oil passages. The base circle on the cam increased 2mm. In addition the valve stem diameter changed from 7mm to 6mm

[Wobbly Dave]

So how much of the actual engine build can I do myself?

I assume I can do the strip down right - but who should build it up?

[claymore]

So how much of the actual engine build can I do myself?

I assume I can do the strip down right - but who should build it up?

Build it yourself, it's only changing rods and pistons, I used to rebuild my escort engine before each rally.

[Wobbly Dave]

That would be fine apart from the points made by james about checking & reboring the donor block.

[Wobbly Dave]

Made an offer on a 79K engine - waiting for verification of the mileage.

[smithy]

That would be fine apart from the points made by james about checking & reboring the donor block.

regarding the pistons its good point once you have rebuilt the engine and put it back in you dont want to be taking it back out again .but once the engine is built and fitted you can whatever turbo you want on it within reason and now you have the strenght to cope with it.i always say imho 350 whp is about as much as you want for a road/trackday fwd monster

[Wobbly Dave]

It is the ability to cope with additional torque that I am after. I have done some calculations & 350 is about as much as FWD can handle/ as much as the chassis can handle & still remain driveable for regular use.

If I can peak & hold around 450 - 550 NM that will be awesome. Essentially I am looking to tune the same profile as I have now - just higher & sustained longer - perhaps even as far as 6500rpm?

I think that the Yellow Peril is a case in point where there is too much??

Not that bothered about peak willy waving figures.

[smithy]

It is the ability to cope with additional torque that I am after. I have done some calculations & 350 is about as much as FWD can handle/ as much as the chassis can handle & still remain driveable for regular use.

If I can peak & hold around 450 - 550 NM that will be awesome. Essentially I am looking to tune the same profile as I have now - just higher & sustained longer - perhaps even as far as 6500rpm?

I think that the Yellow Peril is a case in point where there is too much??

Not that bothered about peak willy waving figures.

that amount of torque will be easy to get and hold the engine in 1 piece and you have a 7.5k rpm limit mate

[Wobbly Dave]

Any advice on the headwork - should I look for new valves or other things? When we spoke you said you thought the head should be fine as is?

[smithy]

Any advice on the headwork - should I look for new valves or other things? When we spoke you said you thought the head should be fine as is?

its a 20v head mate and vvt just get it pressure tested and crack tested same thing really and a general check over and a minor skim to make sure its flat and job done mate.the only thing thats stops these engines are the rods mate and you will get a realible 300 to 350 whp out of these engine when they are changed.

[Wobbly Dave]

Do you have contacts for the head checks in the West Mids?

[smithy]

Do you have contacts for the head checks in the West Mids?

get the engine first i will pm you my number mate

[hamish]

Do you have contacts for the head checks in the West Mids?

Yes.

I will ask him over the next few days how much he wants for rebuilding an engine for you using new (forged) rods and pistons as well.

But unless you change that turbo for something bigger otherwise you aren't going to get the power and torque you are looking for.

Does Ellen know what you are up to ?

Regards,
H.

[Wobbly Dave]

Hamish,

No Ellen has no idea about this & no I can't sleep either. I haven't worked out how to do either of them yet.

I was hoping to do this as my shed based project over the coming year.

My wobbly logic goes something like this....
Betsy's engine has a limited life span. The engine has done 170K on it.
I still enjoy the shape & currently I can think of nothing on the market that I would prefer. The new C70 torsional stiffness probably means that doing a full RS conversion on it will be too much for the chassis. I don't really want another S40 or V50. The S60 MY2005 is a logical choice to get the ME9 engine - but again I am not keen on the styliing. Going backwards towards 850s doesn't really do it for me either.
Betsy is mostly in fine form - a bit of paint on the front bumper wouldnt go amiss - but Ellen has already said she'd help me with that for my 40th present. So for the foreseeable future I am keeping the C70.

I was keen to engage discussions over extending the torque with a new turbo on a standard engine, like when we last discussed it at my recent wheel bearing change, but I am duly wary of doing a great deal more on an older engine.

That 19T on their is over 150K old now - having done work on all 3 T5s I ever owned. So my logic was - if the cambelt needs doing then perhaps sticking in a newer engine & a newer turbo would work.

Talking to smithy about Torque at the Ace Cafe, the graph his 940 made & the 8 kids he has, plus the arrival of James' T5R led to this latest drivel about me putting rods & pistons in too.

The engine project would in fact cost me twice as much as what anyone quotes - as I promised Ellen that I would give her what ever I spend, but rest assured that Ellen & the wibble will not go short.


So I have nearly 4000 euros saved up from my "vakantie spaargeld". This is over & above what I usually take home. I will sell the heated C70 seats sitting in my shed.

I am hoping that Bernie @ CTS will give me something back. The sensible thing to do would be to pay back my Barclaycard & get the bathroom retiled (which I will get done this year before the baby arrives).

At the moment I have spent 35 quid on a 2nd hand Sealey engine stand & offered a breaker 200 quid for a 2nd hand ME7 engine. I may yet just stick the engine on the stand & turn it around a few times. Apparently according to a recent BBC report I saw on Breakfast telly - men doing "stuff" in the shed is very good for their health & mental well being. I have just received all the new tools that got nicked & I was hoping to actually use some of them. I have also looked at the Carillo rods & JE pistons - which are a bit more expensive. I also thought I could just buy the parts & do the work myself (in my fort knox shed).

I was of course going to ask you about which turbo to use & can you map it up.

I was also going to ask about fitting this... http://www.ecotekplc.com/CB-26P.htm Web & magazine reviews seem very positive & about fitting the AP brakes.

[smithy]

dave you cannot compare my car and your car they are completely different machines.the turbo that is on james car is only on there because my v70 got smashed up and was only on my 940 for a tempary measure ,because it was designed for 850/v70 .its going to cost you alot of money mate with the labour costs etc involved and the maping too.with a new baby coming too you dont need that round your neck mate.if i was you mate learn how to get the most out of your car at mo at the stage it is and save your money for baby and house etc because that costs alot mate.ps your car is not slow mate just need to get better at driving that car mate lol

[Wobbly Dave]

I have a man coming this evening to quote me on the bathroom.

I got a decent 60ft - 2.3 seconds but Betsy just won't go that quick in 2nd. No matter what I do the best speed through the 660 has been 79 MPH. It's usually somwhere between 77 & 78.

I can add no more boost without serious risk to my rods. According to my test OTR figures she makes 21.9 psi (1.5 bar) on the new sensors - timing dips to around 16 degrees BTDC - fueling is spot on & AFR - and IAT rises about 12 - 15 degrees above ambient. On the dyno I make 400NM (you'll find the graph earlier on). Baby Wibble/ Ellen will lack for nothing rest assured - just thought it would be a good shed based project. It might take a year to complete. One thing that the gearbox project has told me - is that I am sick to death of lining other people's pockets.

And you are right - all of this doesn't add up to a hill of beans when you consider the fact that I do 6-8 RYWB per year & 2 track days.

[p fandango]

I got a decent 60ft - 2.3 seconds but Betsy just won't go that quick in 2nd. No matter what I do the best speed through the 660 has been 79 MPH. It's usually somwhere between 77 & 78
my best 60ft is 2.390, yet my best speed over the 660ft is 77.19 (that was on my 14.557run)

[Wobbly Dave]

This is very similar to my 14.50 second run - I think the 660 was about 78. However without a substantial increase in speed I am unlikely to see the subside of 14 seconds.

And yes I am clinging to the 1/2 a tenth ET.

[T5frankie]

This is very similar to my 14.50 second run - I think the 660 was about 78. However without a substantial increase in speed I am unlikely to see the subside of 14 seconds.

And yes I am clinging to the 1/2 a tenth ET.

lol, you will need to mate cos i'm chasing you down first target lol

[Wobbly Dave]

BRING IT LOL - does this mean you have done the flintstone floorpan mod to the V70R?

[T5frankie]

Hamish,

No Ellen has no idea about this & no I can't sleep either. I haven't worked out how to do either of them yet.

I was hoping to do this as my shed based project over the coming year.

My wobbly logic goes something like this....
Betsy's engine has a limited life span. The engine has done 170K on it.
I still enjoy the shape & currently I can think of nothing on the market that I would prefer. The new C70 torsional stiffness probably means that doing a full RS conversion on it will be too much for the chassis. I don't really want another S40 or V50. The S60 MY2005 is a logical choice to get the ME9 engine - but again I am not keen on the styliing. Going backwards towards 850s doesn't really do it for me either.
Betsy is mostly in fine form - a bit of paint on the front bumper wouldnt go amiss - but Ellen has already said she'd help me with that for my 40th present. So for the foreseeable future I am keeping the C70.

I was keen to engage discussions over extending the torque with a new turbo on a standard engine, like when we last discussed it at my recent wheel bearing change, but I am duly wary of doing a great deal more on an older engine.

That 19T on their is over 150K old now - having done work on all 3 T5s I ever owned. So my logic was - if the cambelt needs doing then perhaps sticking in a newer engine & a newer turbo would work.

Talking to smithy about Torque at the Ace Cafe, the graph his 940 made & the 8 kids he has, plus the arrival of James' T5R led to this latest drivel about me putting rods & pistons in too.

The engine project would in fact cost me twice as much as what anyone quotes - as I promised Ellen that I would give her what ever I spend, but rest assured that Ellen & the wibble will not go short.


So I have nearly 4000 euros saved up from my "vakantie spaargeld". This is over & above what I usually take home. I will sell the heated C70 seats sitting in my shed.

I am hoping that Bernie @ CTS will give me something back. The sensible thing to do would be to pay back my Barclaycard & get the bathroom retiled (which I will get done this year before the baby arrives).

At the moment I have spent 35 quid on a 2nd hand Sealey engine stand & offered a breaker 200 quid for a 2nd hand ME7 engine. I may yet just stick the engine on the stand & turn it around a few times. Apparently according to a recent BBC report I saw on Breakfast telly - men doing "stuff" in the shed is very good for their health & mental well being. I have just received all the new tools that got nicked & I was hoping to actually use some of them. I have also looked at the Carillo rods & JE pistons - which are a bit more expensive. I also thought I could just buy the parts & do the work myself (in my fort knox shed).

I was of course going to ask you about which turbo to use & can you map it up.

I was also going to ask about fitting this... http://www.ecotekplc.com/CB-26P.htm Web & magazine reviews seem very positive & about fitting the AP brakes.


BRING IT LOL - does this mean you have done the flintstone floorpan mod to the V70R?

lol i'll just use the 850 bound to win then (i say begrudgingly)

[p fandango]

lol i'll just use the 850 bound to win then (i say begrudgingly)
looks like your finally coming round, 850's rule :)

[T5frankie]

looks like your finally coming round, 850's rule :)

never said they wern't quicker just not a nicer place to sit or to look at.

Has anybody on here tuned a manual v70r awd?

[T5frankie]

listen - frankies wagon post mod...

eh?

[Wobbly Dave]

eh?
Sorry I was trying to download the Flintstone car .wav file - the one that sounds like bongos.

[T5frankie]

Sorry I was trying to download the Flintstone car .wav file - the one that sounds like bongos.

850 has been sold pending payment long live the 70's dave lol we are the minority on here lol

[Wobbly Dave]

Well I have been beavering away a bit on Betsy today - fitted the Mehle ARB drop links - swapped to winter tyres & put my new samco coolant hoses on (with shiny new jubilees).

I am impressed with the Mehle's - these HD droplinks look the biz & also love the price. Previous attempts with IPD & QD have ended in disappointment & some ridicule from Hamish (with good justification). Now if these dont last - it doesn't matter as they are the same price as the standard OEM ones!

Thanks to Dicky for pointing me in the right direction

Am waiting for Niles's intake pipe & then I will put up some new engine bay shots (plus I ran out of light).

Here are the comparitive shots - (apologies for the poor picture quality but I was shaking due to the cold)

[Wobbly Dave]

First post has been updated - so you don't have to read the whole 300 plus posts to get an idea.

[Wobbly Dave]

Couple of updated engine shots with the custom intake.

[smithy]

Couple of updated engine shots with the custom intake.

nice and shiny but does it do anything for your car

[Wobbly Dave]

Turbo does seem to spoil just a tad quicker & there is some improvement in throttle response. Noise is not much changed - perhaps a little more suction/whistle from the 19T.

But overall I dunno - only the dyno will tell.

I am happy enough with the mod.

[M-R-P]

Looking good, tidy as always ;) enjoy!

[smithy]

Turbo does seem to spoil just a tad quicker & there is some improvement in throttle response. Noise is not much changed - perhaps a little more suction/whistle from the 19T.

But overall I dunno - only the dyno will tell.

I am happy enough with the mod.

good but the mod dont always show an increase on the dyno though it just improves the way the car drives and i think you can get a larger tb from sweden for yours.i know i can get up to a 4.5 in tb for mine 120 pounds nice lol

[Wobbly Dave]

Accronym attach - larger TB?

Perhaps 1/2 a tenth on the 1/4 - or nothing at all. who knows. Air intakes are the same still (not surprised by that) - all I can say is there is no lag at all now on throttle response from the ETM/pedal. I hit the loud one & the revs rise pretty instantly.

I would like to increase the air intake without a bonnet scoop - (don't want to mess up the lines) whilst at the I don't want to create a water intake. The standard intake is now the smallest diameter part of the induction circuit.

If I could have the same thing - but wider & still flat enough to poke out beyond the rad pack then that would be a good mod.

[Wobbly Dave]

Well done to Betsy today for making 160K & still pullin' strong.

My Dad is off to make the MAP & IAT sensor saddle in aluminium for me so I can have all metal pipe work going to the ETM - which will complete my R.I.P. conversion. So I am excited about that. I am certain that the prototype will prove popular with other ME7 owners upto 2004.

I have also ordered a length of fresh air pipe work (89mm) from Demon Tweaks just to see if I can't get a litte more air into the cone sheild. Do you think I should run both the OEM & the extra or just remove the standard pipe.

I plan to run the fresh air feed from the bottom valance. I think water intake will be a very minimal risk as any water coming in will have to climb uphill & jump the gap to the cone.

[Wobbly Dave]

Well I have completed the new cold air feed - 85mm solid & 89mm flexible. Some plastic surgery was necessary on parts of the lower valence - but it all fits nicely & you have to admit - it is very shiny!

[rikcougar]

That is looking very tasty Dave, question is does it help with heat soak?

[M-R-P]

That is indeed a very nice, shiny chewing gum hoover ;)

[JUDGENINJA]

Dave - consider putting an AEM bypass valve on if you are putting the intake that low.

AEM bypass valve (http://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/aem-valve.aspx)

[turbo-tuner]

Well I have completed the new cold air feed - 85mm solid & 89mm flexible. Some plastic surgery was necessary on parts of the lower valence - but it all fits nicely & you have to admit - it is very shiny!

Perhaps what you have made there is a hot air feed!

In the summer, the highest air temperature is just above the road surface and the temperature gradient is very high, which is why you get a mirage.

[T5frankie]

not good there mate for big puddles or heavy rain on the ground

[p fandango]

What you have made there is a hot air feed!

In the summer, the highest air temperature is just above the road surface and the temperature gradient is very high, which is why you get a mirage.
i've had my doubts about how effective air filter heat shields are in engine bays as well, inless you get it 100% perfectly sealed you might as well not bother

[JUDGENINJA]

Pedro - wind chill in mine without the headlight where my cold air box is the size of a small car were fridge temperatures (3-4degC). The box was freezing even after I'd driven back to the pits from a 1/4mile run.

[Wobbly Dave]

I have measure the air intake temps in the manifold & at idle throttle when moving & when not. There is not much in it - but the temp reads not much more than 1 degree difference.

Given that the hole in the shield is no different to when it was fed by the OEM pipe. So in terms of rain induction - I am doubtful - as there a 2 right hand bend in the flex tube.

I am not going green laning so unless I put the car into a puddle upto it ears - I am unlikely to hydrolock. Also if there is such a risk - I can drop the flex pipe off the front.

[Wobbly Dave]

Bypass valve seems only appropriate where there is no break in the intake. The heat shield forms that very purpose.

There simply will not be enough kinetic energy left in any water drips sucked in once it has turned 2 corners, risen 2 foot to jump the gap.

[T5frankie]

Bypass valve seems only appropriate where there is no break in the intake. The heat shield forms that very purpose.

There simply will not be enough kinetic energy left in any water drips sucked in once it has turned 2 corners, risen 2 foot to jump the gap.

i'm talking about constant standing water

[Wobbly Dave]

It's a coupe - not a boat!

use case #1

driving through deep puddles - contact with water is behind the intake.

use case #2
I only know of 1 ford in the West Midlands & the route to avoid it.

[JUDGENINJA]

Bypass valve seems only appropriate where there is no break in the intake. The heat shield forms that very purpose.

There simply will not be enough kinetic energy left in any water drips sucked in once it has turned 2 corners, risen 2 foot to jump the gap.

Ah yes I see now.. Randomguy's Primera was filtered from the lower inner wing.

[T5frankie]

i'm talking about constant standing water

there was a bloke selling an mgzs on ebay the other day on an 04 plate cheap cos of the exact same issue his a puddle and lkilled his car as the intake was at the bottom of the bumper, s'up to you mate looks good though, still wont beat me though ll

[Wobbly Dave]

Is there an air gap on the MG??

[jardon]

Well I have completed the new cold air feed - 85mm solid & 89mm flexible. Some plastic surgery was necessary on parts of the lower valence - but it all fits nicely & you have to admit - it is very shiny!

I think you'd be very unlucky to get that "airbox" space to fill with water but it can be done - I filled a 406 to the brim but it lived to tell the tale. It does look like a neat and shiny job. Adam is right about the air temps on road though and you may be better off taking the air from a higher point anyway - not an issue until summer obviously. I like the idea of a cone filter with appropriate cold air feed and sealed off underbonnet space - purely for the induction noise as performance wise the stock piping and airbox are great. Does yours seal well with the bonnet?

[Wobbly Dave]

Thing is I haven't changed the heat shield for the last 3 years. It is still the same IPD thing I bought donkeys ago..

All I have done is change the feed. The diameter is slightly larger.

If the temps rise to a point where it is important - then I can just take the flex hose part off the front. this is a compromise as I will then be sucking air past the end of the rad pack

What troubles me is the very small gap above the FMIC to squeeze in the air forward of the rad pack. So if I had the tech to build one - I love to make a scoop to replace the top inner valance.

So what I have now is a larger diameter - but yes there is a compromise on intake position - but there are only 2 positions where the intake faces forward. I could have drilled through the front bumper by the fog light or use the fog light hole itself - but that is no higher up.

Air box seals reasonably well. There is a gap between the edge & the inner wing. You can see the imprint on the sound deadening - & the temps seen at the manifold are just fine.

I could do with some new edging strips.

[jardon]

Thanks Dave, could be something to try out this summer. I think with some Blue Peter style fabrication I could make an air tight seal. Do you get a louder induction note than with a stock airbox?

[Wobbly Dave]

yes the noise was always much more pronouced. I am surprised you have not watched my videos. The recirc valve is clearly audiable.

It would not be that hard to make the IPD box entirely sealed. Personally I would like to chrome the whole thing up.

All I'd need would be some chromium sulphate, some strong acid (to clean it first) and a decent size tank (and obviously some electricity).

Alternatively - I could just find a plating company in the west mids. There are bound to be plenty of those.

[Wobbly Dave]

As it appears the new rules mean I cannot edit old posts to make them clearer. The intake shield remains unchanged.

This was the before

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12147&d=1324939859
This is the after

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12382&d=1327189976

[daza-b]

looking good matey :D

[Wobbly Dave]

I thought so.

[daza-b]

where do you get the chromed bits from??

[Jamest5r]

As it appears the new rules mean I cannot edit old posts to make them clearer. The intake shield remains unchanged.

This was the before

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12147&d=1324939859
This is the after

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12382&d=1327189976


Dave i think that look's the nut's mate :)

[Wobbly Dave]

where do you get the chromed bits from??
which? The battery cover & fuel rail thing were made by a former member - no longer around.

I made up the RIP kit from a universal pipe kit (57mm) from AST on E-bay. The new fresh airpipe work is from revotek on Demon Tweeks with a universal 89mm 45 degree pipe from the web.e

As you may already know Niles has been making the MAF to turbo airpipe.

[Wobbly Dave]

Took a some time to get all the dirt out of them - thank God for Iron X soap - it really helped getting rid of the "burnt on" black bits - even so took a good 90 minutes of elbow grease to get these new to me 18s up. The light was fading so I did a run to the nearest Shell - sorry about the shaky pic mind.

Let me know what you think. Personally I am not convinced.

[bubba_1986]

They look " flat " to me mate. Like flat and to big, does that make sense, the 19's stood out

[Wobbly Dave]

Yep, they are not floating my boat as much as I thought they would.

[The Flying Moose]

I think they look well Dave.

How do they compare on the road to the feel of your old wheels?

[Wobbly Dave]

I weighed one of each & the OZ rims are 2kgs heavier than the Comets. So there's little to speak off. I haven't been any great distance yet. I am going to HLM today for a brake service (prior to Cadwell), so will let you know.

I have a mind to hold out for Nathan's 19s off his Victor, but as yet it is unclear if he is looking to sell them separately, without some standard rims to put it on.

[rikcougar]

Love the look of those Dave, have to admit though, the 19`s on Victor are spectacular, as is the price probably

Has yours been lowered by much?

They might suit a very slightly different coloured car :smile:

[LiamT4]

Not as nice as your last ones, but they still look good.

Maybe better in a darker colour?

[Wobbly Dave]

Love the look of those Dave, have to admit though, the 19`s on Victor are spectacular, as is the price probably

Has yours been lowered by much?

They might suit a very slightly different coloured car :smile:
Decided - assuming you are still interested to let you have them for the price I sent via PM? If that's still OK?

[rikcougar]

Agreed Dave, pm answered, look forward to collecting them at Cadwell

[Wobbly Dave]

Can I drop them with you at home on Friday?

[rikcougar]

You can drop them off anytime you like Dave, just let me know when and I`ll pm you details

[Wobbly Dave]

It will just make it easier for you to put them on for the following day I thought?

[rikcougar]

Sounds good to me Dave, are you staying over in Louth on the Friday, don`t want you going out of your way

[Wobbly Dave]

Yes - I am staying at the Beaumont.

[rikcougar]

No probs then, I`ll pm you addy details, thanks mate

[Wobbly Dave]

Well I have been doing some trial starts & tweaks to get ready for Avon Park. Yesterday - bit of a woosh too far...



Can't say I am overly impressed with Samco boost hoses.
Only 18 months of service or so. The OEM one that I put on is much thicker. Cheers to HLM for helping me find the leak. Would have been a mare without the smoke generator.

[Wobbly Dave]

On a better note - check out these bad boys - just back from bead blast & polycoat with new Federal RSR 595s

[M-R-P]

Well I have been doing some trial starts & tweaks to get ready for Avon Park. Yesterday - bit of a woosh too far...



Can't say I am overly impressed with Samco boost hoses.
Only 18 months of service or so. The OEM one that I put on is much thicker. Cheers to HLM for helping me find the leak. Would have been a mare without the smoke generator.
OOh! nasty split (ooh-err)

On a better note - check out these bad boys - just back from bead blast & polycoat with new Federal RSR 595s

Liking the rubber Dave but WTF? you always had such good taste in wheels ;) I hope they're for track use only lol.

[Dangerous Dave]

Liking the rubber Dave but WTF? you always had such good taste in wheels ;) I hope they're for track use only lol.
Aren't they the native C70 ones?

[Wobbly Dave]

those are canistos - what I bought to swap onto Victor-ia. Thought I would do something with them.

The rubber is just for track days to save my road tyres. I take it then you are not keen on the colour?

these are the same wheels that I used to have on Felicity (rest in pieces)

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/C70_Scotland_aug05/lochside2.jpg

[M-R-P]

It's not the colour (have you seen my recent refurb pics? Gay blue they weren't when I first sprayed them) It's the wheel itself. imho, not the best desigh Volvo came up with - about as dull as mine? (awaiting backlash for insulting what could very well be a very popular design of wheel)
Just my opinion tho :)

[LiamT4]

It's not the colour (have you seen my recent refurb pics? Gay blue they weren't when I first sprayed them) It's the wheel itself. imho, not the best desigh Volvo came up with - about as dull as mine? (awaiting backlash for insulting what could very well be a very popular design of wheel)
Just my opinion tho :)

Strange design, i never thought that much of them in pics. But they look better in the metal and look quite good on 850s, when they have been lowered a bit.

[Wobbly Dave]

I was doing them up to sell. But I am not sure now.

[theflyingbrick]

well i like em ;)

[M-R-P]

We all have preferences. some think my ameltheas look nice, I think they look turd ;)

[jardon]

On a better note - check out these bad boys - just back from bead blast & polycoat with new Federal RSR 595s

I like them in that darker colour. My car runs Amaltheas or 1.2's. The Amaltheas look a bit dull in silver but really nice in Anthracite. Good job - I may try RSR's when my AD08's give up.

[M-R-P]

Jardon, I've heard about your ameltheas, any chance of a pic ?;)

[jardon]

Sort of:

http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee340/huwbellamy/JEN_1986.jpg

http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee340/huwbellamy/JEN_1833.jpg

http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee340/huwbellamy/JEN_2459.jpg

[jardon]

Sorry:

http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee340/huwbellamy/avatar1.jpg

[M-R-P]

Nice!
Respray for mine this weekend lol :)

[T5frankie]

i think 850's look good with canistos
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2914000-2914999/2914498_10_full.jpg

or s70's
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v189/gdogg16/fullyGAY.jpg

[Kingsford G]

Keep that baby mate shes looking good.Would look great in saffron gold though lol

[Wobbly Dave]

Well I have picked them up today - you'll see 'em on Sunday - those lucky enough to have the time to come.

[Jamest5r]

Your lucky mate I nearly had the other two away :)

[Wobbly Dave]

I will happily hire them out by the hour ;)

LOL - don't you still owe me £30 quid for the "r-spec" that I gave away last night. ;)

[Wobbly Dave]

Been an exciting week - especially today.

My Dad - gawd bless 'im - has sent me the final piece in the jigsaw for the RIP kit I made. If you read back a few pages - you will have seen that putting in a RIP kit on early ME7 is complicated by the saddle that holds the manifold pressure & temp sensors.

I bodged something from the original pipe, cut, shut, glued & pop riveted it together. It leaks oil - so the glue doesnt work (araldite). Well no more problems now. Machine cut from a solid block of aluminium - it sits perfectly on top of the pipe. My Dad has also cunningly engineered a brass sleave to hold the temp sensor. The pressure sensor is held in place with 3 screws and the whole thing is held on with instant gasket & 3 jubilees - which are screwed onto the block.

The temp sensor dips into the pipe at the same height as before - so it is a proper job.

I also now have my tool to create bead lips for any soft pipe - aluminimum or copper. Anyone having cut a length of such pipe & wanting a new lip creating can get in touch. I will be happy to oblige.

[bubba_1986]

Glad you got it sorted mate, pm me your email address so i can send that money

[Wobbly Dave]

Aye wee man - you have a PM.

I will put the pipe in this weekend & let you know.

[Wobbly Dave]

Obviously not as impressive as Claymore's bonnet :cry:

[M-R-P]

Mmm, nice Dave, very shiny ;)

[Wobbly Dave]

Got to fix up the cut parts of my RIP kit with the new tool!

Check this out!!

[smithy]

Got to fix up the cut parts of my RIP kit with the new tool!

Check this out!!

more shinny stuff enjoy mate lol.when you getting new block for rebuild mate

[Wobbly Dave]

No the point was to show how I can now create pipe beads.

[smithy]

No the point was to show how I can now create pipe beads.

i know it was a joke mate lol

[Wobbly Dave]

:hidesbehi:

ooops

[Dangerous Dave]

Dave you seriously need to get a workbench :D

[M-R-P]

Quite a mighty tool you have there Dave...:eek:

[deathrider311271]

The new pipe looks good Dave, so is it worth doing this mod on the ME7? any real noticable difference?

Simon

[Wobbly Dave]

Cut out 50cm out of my turbo pipework - its argueable that this makes a difference. I liked it because it was something I made & now with the engineering from my father - I don't mind if it only makes a nominal improvement.

[Wobbly Dave]

Bit of a detailing today (including the wife's). Since I had my rear arches rolled - the shut line on the rear bumper & 3/4 panel was abissmal & I finally fixed it today. Cable ties were used in an ingenious fashion to make up for the lack of support from the cut wheel arch liners.

[M-R-P]

Very nice and shiney dave. Is there a reason Mrs. Wobbly's car only got the one pic? ;)

[Wobbly Dave]

The other one I did was out of focus. Plus it was only intended as a bonus shot. - No disrespect to the S40 diesel - just serviced it on Friday at HLM.

[M-R-P]

lol ;)
no T5 tho is it dave,
The 40 does look nice when it's all clean and sparkley :) That blue is really "deep" looking, with the light on it.

[Wobbly Dave]

Spent ages getting it good when we bought it. Needs a spring clean - strip back, minor polish, glaze - to get it really good. Dark colours are more rewarding - but not many people I know can get a reflection in silver paint ;)

[Wobbly Dave]

Bit of an update - not done one for a while.

Good stuff...

recently spent 700 quid on elective paintwork treatments. 2 wheel arches needed sorting out (one of the downsides from rolling my arches a few years back) and the front valence which has been letting the whole car down. I tried to fix my rear bumper with some wet sanding. Sadly I was not entirely successful - so they did that as well. Made a huge difference to the overall appearance.

Bad stuff

Sniffer test has confirmed that the current engine is now burning water (suspect head gasket?). The car still manages to go well enough - and this water consumption has been going on for a while. I have put in some K-Stop and it seems to have temporarily stopped the issue from getting any worse. I can't complain given that the current block has done 176K. Thankfully I don't have to worry about commuting with the car & we have the S40 to get about.

I guess if I was to call it a day with the current car then now would be a good time - but I am never going to see very much of the money so I am pushing on with the new engine.
Engine is clean & bored out to fit the wiseco pistons. I have the S60R manifold in place to be used for the new turbo which will probably be a garrett GT or GTX series.

The new turbo may yet have to be put on hold - obviously I need an engine pretty soon so the direct swap to the current 19T setup would buy some time if I want to continue to use the car.

The ugly stuff...

The wife is a little bit bemused about the fact I have not built any of the engine, despite having bought a large cleaning tank & engine stand - the fact is I am a bit scared of getting it wrong, particularly with the VVT exhaust port timing. So maybe I am not as mechanically minded as I would like to think. I messed up removing 5 of the head bolts - so the same company that did the bores (PICS BELOW) also did the rounded headbolts. I have asked them now to re-assemble. Is that the wrong thing to do?

[stribo]

No mate, good call. Having spoken to the Volvo trained mechanic that changed the VVT unit on the R, he said it was a real PITA to time it up, and it took him a couple of attempts.

[Wobbly Dave]

I could just jack it in & save my pennies towards a natty little Aston Martin on the trader. (http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201238485380920/sort/default/usedcars/price-from/20000/price-to/35000/model/vantage/make/aston_martin/onesearchad/used/onesearchad/nearlynew/onesearchad/new/page/1/quicksearch/true/radius/1500/postcode/b312ra?logcode=p) I have probably spent at least the value of the A/M over the years on tweaks, repairs & upgrades. However I'd still be scared of using or putting it on a track. Even with a FHT C70 T5 - I'd still feel obliged to start tinkering.

[JUDGENINJA]

Go for the Aston!!

Like my mate who runs and plays with a R32 Skyline..."It's just a car"..

[Wobbly Dave]

I think I still want something that if I crash into a wall (on a track day & lose everything).
1. I would feel relatively safe
2. I wouldn't feel to bad about it (just buy another one and move the parts).

It is however a bit weird that when you consider that out of the Volvo corale at Trax (camping the night before) - My C70 & Smiffy's S40 were the newest ones there?!

[Wobbly Dave]

Well slowly but surely things are coming together. Just a couple of shots of the new engine block almost full assembled - just the timing belt & VVT cam to go on.

I have been very impressed with the work at Motorcast - so thanks to Colin & Paul for the local knowledge/recommendation. They have clean up everything including the t-stat housing - pressure tested the oil cooler; made their own crank locking tool (spot it on the picture); reworked the head; set up all the tappits. The attention to detail is amazing.

1719017191


Just need to get a turbo sorted.

[M-R-P]

Wow, bloody good work there, you must be peased.
One question... No S60R manifold?

[Wobbly Dave]

Bought an S60R - it is bent/warped - so it's going back. To be fair it is only marginally bent - but too much so for it to sit properly. Motorcast said they could grind it, but I am not spending all this money for it not to be 100% right.

You may have seen on the other thread (http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?44938-T5-tubular-manifold) I have been scouring the world for a decent manifold - tubular or cast to try to marry up to a garrett gt or gtx turbo.

[MoleT-5R]

nice job, engine's looking sparkling, bet you can't wait for fire up day...?

[claymore]

I have a manifold you can use, as long as you replace it when you find another, I won't need it till January.

[Wobbly Dave]

Appreciate the offer Colin - I will make a final decision based on which turbo I can get.

[Jamest5r]

Very nice Dave :)

Can't complain about your old engine concidering the abuse you gave it, so when you going to fit it?

[V70 Graham]

Does look a very nice engine Dave, look forward to seeing it fitted.

[Wobbly Dave]

Very nice Dave :)

Can't complain about your old engine concidering the abuse you gave it, so when you going to fit it?

Nah it just a shame that it looks like it is on its way (or at least the H/G is) - as this puts an unwanted time pressure on the engine swap.

Engine should be ready by the middle of next week at the latest. Then I need to find some willing volunteers to help me swap it out.

My plan is to leave the existing map & turbo in situ & use the old engine to mock up the turbo swap.

[T5frankie]

just put a 15g on then mate :wow:

[Wobbly Dave]

just put a 15g on then mate :wow:

otherwise Frankie will never win?

[Wobbly Dave]

Tomorrow is "E-day" - no I am not going on some 24hr rav binge - the new engine is going in. Got 2 days off work to get this new engine swapped over.

[Dangerous Dave]

Sweet! Bet you can't wait Dave.

[Wobbly Dave]

I am just praying it all comes together, without too many dramas.

[smithy]

What about the turbo mate

[munster732]

A man of your calibre will have it in and runnin in no time mate.

[V70 Graham]

Looking forward to the updates.....

[T5frankie]

Good luck Dave

[stribo]

Hope it all goes well for you Dave.

[Wobbly Dave]

Day 1 - completed. Bit of a late start (11-ish). Engine not entirely out but nearly ready to drop.
All the induction kit off, shiny bits off, battery off, strut brace off,
Rad pack (narrow clearance with the 3" nissens FMIC) is out - bit tricky that, as I did not remove the front cowling/bumper.
d/p off;
fluid out (oil, coolant, G/Box emptied, PAS)
half shafts out
cabin heater hoses off,
gearbox cleared off (loom & cables)
Loom is all but finished - just need to disconnect the starter motor.
Few other minor bits to check but we will suspend the engine & remove the subframe.


Once off - the plan is to drop the engine onto a trolley and move it onto a suitable bench to start the swap process.

I don't think 2 days will be enough.

[smithy]

Day 1 - completed. Bit of a late start (11-ish). Engine not entirely out but nearly ready to drop.
All the induction kit off, shiny bits off, battery off, strut brace off,
Rad pack (narrow clearance with the 3" nissens FMIC) is out - bit tricky that, as I did not remove the front cowling/bumper.
d/p off;
fluid out (oil, coolant, G/Box emptied, PAS)
half shafts out
cabin heater hoses off,
gearbox cleared off (loom & cables)
Loom is all but finished - just need to disconnect the starter motor.
Few other minor bits to check but we will suspend the engine & remove the subframe.


Once off - the plan is to drop the engine onto a trolley and move it onto a suitable bench to start the swap process.

I don't think 2 days will be enough.

Are you getting the turbo sorted at the same time that should only be a 48hr turn around mate.im glad your getting it sorted and how's doing it

[V70 Graham]

Sounds like you have a job on your hands, take your time Dave, hope all goes well.

[Wobbly Dave]

Turning the turbo around tomorrow - most likely using a 16T until the engine is bedded in.

[Wobbly Dave]

Sounds like you have a job on your hands, take your time Dave, hope all goes well.

working on a 2 poster with access to air tools makes a big difference.

[smithy]

Turning the turbo around tomorrow - most likely using a 16T until the engine is bedded in.

That's a good idea who said that idea because then you can mod the other turbo then .weldone dave keep up the good work mate and keep intouch you miserable sod lol

[T5frankie]

Ain't you got an engine hoist? Much easier out the top took us 12 hours last engine change

[smithy]

Ain't you got an engine hoist? Much easier out the top took us 12 hours last engine change

You can change an engine in 7 hrs max dropping engine out of bottom mate

[M-R-P]

world record for changing an engine is something like 40 seconds, set on a MKII escort rally car in the '70s :D

[smithy]

world record for changing an engine is something like 40 seconds, set on a MKII escort rally car in the '70s :D

Everything is quick release on those cars though mate and the 940 2 hrs lol

[T5frankie]

You can change an engine in 7 hrs max dropping engine out of bottom mate

really so why did it take you 3 months to do mine? :rotfl:

[M-R-P]

Everything is quick release on those cars though mate and the 940 2 hrs lol

And I've eaten burgers bigger than the engine in a MKII pmsl.

[p fandango]

And I've eaten burgers bigger than the engine in a MKII pmsl.
probably more powerful as well lol

[smithy]

really so why did it take you 3 months to do mine? :rotfl:

Work and kids lol but you still got it back done and I also did not just do the engine and I was on my own too numpty

[Wobbly Dave]

Ain't you got an engine hoist? Much easier out the top took us 12 hours last engine change

No I don't sadly. I dare say if I was as proficient as you & as well practiced then maybe I could have it down.

Book time is 9.2 hours, but given I have only done the drop twice before (and not the restore) - I am happy enough with the progress. I am on my own mostly & I confess the years behind a desk have made me more prone to running out of steam.

Sometimes I can stare at it for hours without doing much.

[jardon]

No I don't sadly. I dare say if I was as proficient as you & as well practiced then maybe I could have it down.

Book time is 9.2 hours, but given I have only done the drop twice before (and not the restore) - I am happy enough with the progress. I am on my own mostly & I confess the years behind a desk have made me more prone to running out of steam.

Sometimes I can stare at it for hours without doing much.

It took me a week to change my front calipers. Well done on the job so far - don't set yourself an ambitious schedule.

[T5frankie]

No I don't sadly. I dare say if I was as proficient as you & as well practiced then maybe I could have it down.

Book time is 9.2 hours, but given I have only done the drop twice before (and not the restore) - I am happy enough with the progress. I am on my own mostly & I confess the years behind a desk have made me more prone to running out of steam.

Sometimes I can stare at it for hours without doing much.
rope claymore in lol

[Wobbly Dave]

I haven't left myself enough time to do this. Can't get anymore time off work to complete it, this week. Feeling a bit under pressure to get Betsy out of the way (even in semi-completed state). So I need to pull my finger out and get her back to a rolling state tomorrow.

[smithy]

I haven't left myself enough time to do this. Can't get anymore time off work to complete it, this week. Feeling a bit under pressure to get Betsy out of the way (even in semi-completed state). So I need to pull my finger out and get her back to a rolling state tomorrow.

Good luck dave

[Wobbly Dave]

Yes - well its silver-lining cloud day today. Got to the gearbox swap just before lunch (with all the other bits transferred). The issue is the Sach's clutch friction plate is nominal (less than 2mm off the rivets). Rather than ploughing on to the finish line (ramp was needed) by COP today - and then redoing the clutch at a later date - I have decided to wait for a new plate. On the upside this means there is enough time to send the 19T off to get it reworked.

I have decided therefore to forego horsepower in the meantime & use manpower instead
17332

Just need to install the accelerator stick through the firewall.

[smithy]

Yes - well its silver-lining cloud day today. Got to the gearbox swap just before lunch (with all the other bits transferred). The issue is the Sach's clutch friction plate is nominal (less than 2mm off the rivets). Rather than ploughing on to the finish line (ramp was needed) by COP today - and then redoing the clutch at a later date - I have decided to wait for a new plate. On the upside this means there is enough time to send the 19T off to get it reworked.

I have decided therefore to forego horsepower in the meantime & use manpower instead
17332

Just need to install the accelerator stick through the firewall.
Best to wait and get it right mate than doing it again and again .get the turbo sorted and the new plate in and when it's finished you can enjoy mate.and I recognise that place mate were your car is.

[M-R-P]

Me too and I've only seen it in pictures lol.

[Dangerous Dave]

Nice one Dave!

Love the pic :D Perhaps some kind of electric shock method instead of the accelerator 'stick'?

[Nealevo]

I have decided therefore to forego horsepower in the meantime & use manpower instead
17332

Just need to install the accelerator stick through the firewall.

Best place for Tom.. In a caged environment!!!

[Wobbly Dave]

Nice one Dave!

Love the pic :D Perhaps some kind of electric shock method instead of the accelerator 'stick'?

I see - sticking with the electronic rather than the manual throttle.

[Dangerous Dave]

Yep, though the software update might cost a bit...

[Wobbly Dave]

I have changed my mind about clipping the 19T - so it will be up for sale soon.

I love it when things I've spent ages thinking about come together, particularly when they arrive.

17419

T3 headache solved - no manifold welding required.

17420

5 bolt - V-band adapter should make it fairly easy to adapt my current 3 bolt d/p
I am more than a little bit excited about this now.
More parts/secrets will be revealed later.

[M-R-P]

Lovely shiny things there Dave.
I can't help thinking though, You may be a little past needing a Haynes book of lies to assist you in your efforts. When looking up info on the turbo in my Haynes, all it says it refer to main dealer :D

[bubba_1986]

Dave sent you a pm mate :-)

[Wobbly Dave]

I had thought originally going for this option
17421

with a secondary "screamer" pipe...

17422
but I think that may be a bit OTT for my application. The idea being the back wash pressure from the main exhaust gas will interfere with the operation of the swing W/G valve, but given that I would have to rejoin the secondary back to the d/p before the cat (so that the 02 sensor gets a proper reading) I didnt feel it worth the hassle. Well that's my theory.

So instead the v-band option seemed easier to deal with...

17423

[M-R-P]

Aren't screamer pipes banned from road and track use?

[Wobbly Dave]

Yes I believe true screamer pipes are. Mine would have been something like this...

[jardon]

Awesomeness - how much extra would it cost to go with the screamer pipe option? I've been reading about the down sides of wastegated gases merging immediately in the turbine. I half understood it.

[T5frankie]

I'd better pull my finger out lol

[Wobbly Dave]

Awesomeness - how much extra would it cost to go with the screamer pipe option? I've been reading about the down sides of wastegated gases merging immediately in the turbine. I half understood it.

I think the principle would be that as the exhaust gases leave the turbo, there could be a tendancy for that back pressure to push the swing valve shut - making the actuator less able to control the wastegate. As far as I can tell the separation of the main flow & the W/G flow will only work if you have a proper screamer pipe, which does not re-join the main d/p.
I would have to find someone to custom weld the pipes up & TBH having them join up 6 inches further down doesn't seem worth it, plus the V-band option gives greater flexibility when it comes to orientation of the d/p flange. Lobbing off the old 3 bolt flange & tig welding the 3" V-band adaptor is relatively easy.

If Betsy was a race car then I might have gone the other way.

The fact the WG is somewhat separate from the main flow will have to do.

[jardon]

I think you're right - maybe not much gain in having the pipe join a few inches away.

[WOODY T5]

Very nice Dave wot map u going for then?

[T5frankie]

Very nice Dave wot map u going for then?

thats where he gets stuck lol

[Wobbly Dave]

Very nice Dave wot map u going for then? i think it'll be quite conservative to start with. i have a snabb tcv and we'll see how well the boost can be controlled. main issue is the speed the ecu can react with the car equivalent of windows 3.11

[Wobbly Dave]

Well - I have finally bolted the V-band housing onto the turbine housing & bolted the whole thing together. What can I say... it's quite big!!

Main issue is finding the time to fettle it all. I need to sort out the circular lip on the manifold - get the CHRA properly orientated. Then I can start getting the oil feeds etc sorted - and get an actuator for it.

Long way to go yet!

[Wobbly Dave]

Sent the S60R manifold to be skimmed and have the flange flattened today. I notice that ATP do a special flange conversion for the T3 to all for the raised ring - but it'll be more expensive to import, than to have the machining done.

I am more disappointed no-one has said owt about the new blower.. :cry:

[T5frankie]

Sent the S60R manifold to be skimmed and have the flange flattened today. I notice that ATP do a special flange conversion for the T3 to all for the raised ring - but it'll be more expensive to import, than to have the machining done.

I am more disappointed no-one has said owt about the new blower.. :cry:

its cos we is all jealous, couldnt just get a gt3071 no you had to get its replacement the gtx, i for one am very jealous, and i'm saving

[claymore]

your water and oil feed pipes should line up Dave, it's just the oil return you have to 'fettle', looks like a nice turbo :)

[Wobbly Dave]

its cos we is all jealous, couldnt just get a gt3071 no you had to get its replacement the gtx, i for one am very jealous, and i'm saving

Cost me more than most of the car's on here.

[T5frankie]

Cost me more than most of the car's on here.

you flogging your 19t now then? i need an angled housing :-)

[Jamest5r]

You got a new turbo Dave? sorry must of missed it lol :)

[claymore]

so, how much power do you expect at the end of all this?

[T5frankie]

so, how much power do you expect at the end of all this?

450bhp

[Wobbly Dave]

More than I had before - fingers crossed. I have certain project goals that I would like to make. 13.2 seconds on the 1/4. Be able to do 2 - 3 track days a year without serious problems (a modicum of reliability) - sub 5 seconds to 60.

Having done the maths if I can make and hold around 450 - 500 NM - the peak figures will take care of themselves. Same torque curve as before - just more of it.

400 horses has a nice ring to it - but that's a big leap from where I am now - another 25% leap.

[Jamest5r]

Dave, just to save yourself a couple of days of pointless trying dont bother to try and map it through the tcv it will never cope,

[T5frankie]

More than I had before - fingers crossed. I have certain project goals that I would like to make. 13.2 seconds on the 1/4. Be able to do 2 - 3 track days a year without serious problems (a modicum of reliability) - sub 5 seconds to 60.

Having done the maths if I can make and hold around 450 - 500 NM - the peak figures will take care of themselves. Same torque curve as before - just more of it.

400 horses has a nice ring to it - but that's a big leap from where I am now - another 25% leap.

450nms? is what a 19t has mine was 478nms, so i'm sure you can expect alot more than that

[Wobbly Dave]

Yes but it didnt push & hold that. Point being that you have to have the RPM & the torque at the right points to make the power.

Need to push it & keep that rotational force going. The shape of the torque curve is what I am interested in. Peak figs only tell 1/2 the story.

[Volvostorm]

your water and oil feed pipes should line up Dave, it's just the oil return you have to 'fettle', looks like a nice turbo :)

None of mine did, had to make up all the pipes :rolleyes2

[Wobbly Dave]

until I get chance to line it up - I am not sure. Hopefully get some time on Saturday, though the pug 205 club are doing a RR day - so Hamish is gonna be a bit busy.

[Wobbly Dave]

Aside the court case today - I did manage to get some positive things today. The S60R manifold has been ground down to fit the T3 housing.
Compressor housing meant that the water return banjo pipe needed "manipulating" - but the oil feed & water feed were quite easy to get into position - just a couple of minor tweaks. Volvo outlet union works too.

19454

1945619455

Only issues today - one of the manifold studs snapped off in the head :'( - hopefully the head can remain in place to get the offending stud out.

Now the orientation of the turbo is sorted - I can send the turbo back to have the actuator fitted. Still got the oil return to the sump to fabricate.

Stud holes on the T3 flange are larger than the old 19 - so there may yet be a bit more machine work needed to put in larger studs into the manifold, plus the T3 flange is not threaded at all - any suggestions as to the best method?

[smithy]

Aside the court case today - I did manage to get some positive things today. The S60R manifold has been ground down to fit the T3 housing.
Compressor housing meant that the water return banjo pipe needed "manipulating" - but the oil feed & water feed were quite easy to get into position - just a couple of minor tweaks. Volvo outlet union works too.

19454

1945619455

Only issues today - one of the manifold studs snapped off in the head :'( - hopefully the head can remain in place to get the offending stud out.

Now the orientation of the turbo is sorted - I can send the turbo back to have the actuator fitted. Still got the oil return to the sump to fabricate.

Stud holes on the T3 flange are larger than the old 19 - so there may yet be a bit more machine work needed to put in larger studs into the manifold, plus the T3 flange is not threaded at all - any suggestions as to the best method?

Get a tap set mate and tap some holes in the flange and then get some studs of the same size and thread.if you cannot get that then get a threaded bar and cut that to size to make the studs.if you need a tap set I have one you can use.

[T5frankie]

And cover that top hole on the Turbo

[Volvostorm]

Think I remember why I had to make up new lines for my GT3071R, it wasn't the hard pipes that gave the trouble, the banjo's are a different size!

Also, check the oil feed in has a 1mm restricter in it, as BB turbos need less oil going through them, you can see the restricter by looking down the hole where the oil feed attaches, I was also advised to put an in-line oil filter in the feed.

[Wobbly Dave]

Think I remember why I had to make up new lines for my GT3071R, it wasn't the hard pipes that gave the trouble, the banjo's are a different size!

Also, check the oil feed in has a 1mm restricter in it, as BB turbos need less oil going through them, you can see the restricter by looking down the hole where the oil feed attaches, I was also advised to put an in-line oil filter in the feed.

I will take that up with turbo dynamics. They have to fit the actuator & tap a hole in the compressor housing. I plan to go back to motorcast to get a proper setup for mating the turbine housing with the manifold.

[lance]

Can't wait for you to overtake me again when I have cooked my brakes please keep the tune mild for the feb track day so I can show you how much more 34 bhp makes ;-)

[Wobbly Dave]

Well the turbo is back from turbo dynamics. The actuator is fitted now & they have tapped a hole in the compressor housing & fitted a brass junction. TD have also supplied a restrictor & a flange for the oil return.

195181951719516

Sadly I found out that the water & oil feed banjos - even though they reach are not the right size. Some more fabrication will be needed. Good news is the oil return feed is the same size as the volvo one. Once everything is back on the car I should know how long to make it.