Boost gauge fitting

[Chriscurzon]

Hey Guys

Just a little help if you can IV just got a boost gauge and I know how to fit them just struggling to find which wires to tap into I need a constant 12v feed and a ignition 12v feed.

Does any 1 know where would be the best place to get this from?

Cheers
Chris

[thebadger]

Behind the stereo TBH.

It will be a pain to wire up, but it's a solid bet & safer than any other spot.

Either that or the 12V socket...

[Chriscurzon]

Been a total noob and that I haven’t really messed around with the car much yet how do you get the stereo out? Lol

I was thinking to attach to wires from back of fuse box but just didn’t know which off the list would be constant or ignition.

[thebadger]

Ok, giz a clue... what model & year are we in?

If it's an s60/v70/s80 it's easy/tricky.

Remove the pen holder by the gear lever,

Remove the two screws (torx 25) that secure the HAVAC unit (heating ventelation air con)

*********** MEGA WARNING*******************************
DO NOT UNPLUG THE HAVAC UNIT! THIS IS VERY BAD IN LOTS OF WAYS!

Move the havac to the side as possible by the cables (noting the above!)

Should be some screws holding the bottom brace on the stereo. (torx 25)

Cables are the usual suspects on volvos. There are more details in the ice section about the cables.

HTH

[Chriscurzon]

Sorry that would of help.

S60 T5 2001.

Trying to fit a Auto gauge electronic boost gauge with a volt meter.

That’s cool cheers for that ill have a go at that look in ice section see what I can tap into.

Thanks for help :)

[Wombatbomb]

I would suggest you're better of disconnecting the battery (provided you have your stereo code) for an hour or so before you go trying to get the stereo out/dismantling the dash if you're unfamiliar with it.

Disconnecting/disturbing the electronics in the dashboard of a P2 is a very good way to get the SRS light to come on,which then means you need a mainstealer/ suitable codereader to switch it back off.

[Chriscurzon]

o joy!

i dont know if i have the radio code either only just got car :(.

have to have a proper look into this then see if can find a wiring diagram or somthing so can make sure tapping into correct wires.

[cornclose]

Trying to fit a Auto gauge electronic boost gauge with a volt meter.

Do you mean one like this ? :-

http://www.circle-software.co.uk/temp/volvo/09.jpg

http://www.circle-software.co.uk/temp/volvo/10.jpg

http://www.circle-software.co.uk/temp/volvo/11.jpg

http://www.circle-software.co.uk/temp/volvo/12.jpg

Full thread with more pics here (http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24215).

You might also find this post (http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showpost.php?p=252612&postcount=4) useful. The whole thread is here (http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24149).

[Chriscurzon]

thats the exact 1!

tells you volts to start off with then goes on to boost!

thast excent mate thanks alot will ahve a good look though that.

[Chriscurzon]

Just had a look though and is that how you wired yours up then by pushing the wires into the fuses?

or did you do it diffarently as i can see the control unit is attached to fuse box on yours did you wires it into there?

[cornclose]

Yes, all cabling was done locally into the main fusebox in the engine bay. However, I didn't just push the wires in, I found which fuses provided the required supply (permenantly live or switched etc) and then used crimp connectors to cable the sender/gauge.

The cable I used was a long thin multicore cable, so that it became easy to feed through to the dash area under the bulkhead. So basically only one cable came from the fuse box to the gauge itself, and the sender unit was cabled inside the fusebox.

The earth point I got from one of the studs just to the right of the fuse box (there are two studs on mine here, yours is probably the same).

In the gauge pod itself I added two small inline fuse holders (with 0.5 Amp fuses) to protect the cable - one for the permanent live, the other for the switch live. I only did this because the supplies I tapped into were fed by much larger fuses - at least 10 Amps as I recall, and the thin multicore cable I used to the gauge itself was only rated at 1 Amp.

All in all this was much easier than removing the stereo unit, and all wiring was done in the easily accessible fuse box area.

[Chriscurzon]

i think id do the same can just crimp onto the wires behind the fuse box long as have the correct 1.

i couldent ask which wires you attached to in teh main fuse box could i?

Think id do it same way so only run the sender wire to the gauge makes things neater and easier.

[cornclose]

I'd have to check - the only one I remember off hand was the thickish brown/green wire which I think was the switched live, which to be fair is the hardest one to find (which is why it's stuck in my head). The permenant live is easy to find with a voltmeter - just keep proding the fuses until you find one that's live with the ignition off.

[Chriscurzon]

i think i found that before this look like the 1 in the main fuse box?

yea ill keep proding the back of fuse box sure ill find a constant live. switachble the 1 i allways struggle with.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l114/modderS60R/aquamist-wiring1.jpg

also did you use that join peice with abit of foam in the middle with yours? no idea why thats in there.

[cornclose]

That's the wire - yes. I know this because I also used it for my Aquamist System 1S installation!

The clear foam bit is inline, yes. It's a surge restrictor/filter. Stops crap getting into the sender and also slightly smooths out the pressure signal to the sender. You can just about see it in one of my photos if you look carefully.

[Chriscurzon]

Ah cool ill use that 1 in fuse box then! i stole that of sweedspeed found it before :)

ah right ill stick that in too then.

Cheers for all replys ill see how i get on, if i get stuck ill be back lol

[Chriscurzon]

Finally got it all fitted, :D

But only thing now is not sure if it did this before or not is that when your sat still in park and press the brake you can hear a click noise from near the gear stick? it still drive fine and you can’t hear it when changing from drive to reverse only when in park.

no idea what that is at all though any 1 know?

[cornclose]

Finally got it all fitted, :D

But only thing now is not sure if it did this before or not is that when your sat still in park and press the brake you can hear a click noise from near the gear stick? it still drive fine and you can’t hear it when changing from drive to reverse only when in park.

no idea what that is at all though any 1 know?

Quite normal. It's the interlock to allow you to move the stick from park to drive or whatever. You have to have your foot on the brake to be able to do so...

[Chriscurzon]

yea i though that just seems really loud never heard it before but suppose wasent listen for it :)

everything still works fine though so guess nothing to worry about.

Thanks for all your help with the wiring up was easy once knew what was doing.

[Chriscurzon]

O and its boosting to 13psi then holding 12psi is that about normal for standard only got a filter on at the moment.

[cornclose]

10 PSI is standard boost. But when you factor in the odd tolerance here and there and the fact the gauge might be slightly out that sounds quite normal.

[Chriscurzon]

yea i read that 10psi was standard so as you say maybe couple of psi out, cant wait for remap next should up the boost some more. :D