Drop link replacement..pitfalls, help pls

[Nico20V]

Ok, so I know its elementary, but how do you guys get round the fact that once worn, the bolt is just guna spin on the bottom arm when you try to remove the bolt!? I tried filing the inner side of the link bit to try and get some purchase with some plairs so I could then work the bolt from the other side, but that was just too bloody awkward so in the end I took a metal saw to it whilst laid on my back beneath the strut. I now face the same challenge with the other one (..except I can't even loosen the top bolt on the second one yet)

cheers for any tips

[Torch S70R]

the way i get round that is to angle grind them off, but be careful as the ARB will be pulling the drop links so when the bolt does go it may spring back down

[thebadger]

I used a mole grip to hold the bar & put a lot of twist force on it, this helped to "pinch" the ball joint, which then freed the bolt!

Also sprayed the bolts with some WD40 before I started, left them for a bit.. came off easy enough!

[thebadger]

Usually the "bolt" has a torx head socket in the tip. (this may be a clever idea from the P2's tho!)

[irf]

cant help with the bolt but jack the whole front up to avoid losing flesh when the link twangs off.

[5seaterT5x2]

Ok, so I know its elementary, but how do you guys get round the fact that once worn, the bolt is just guna spin on the bottom arm when you try to remove the bolt!? I tried filing the inner side of the link bit to try and get some purchase with some plairs so I could then work the bolt from the other side, but that was just too bloody awkward so in the end I took a metal saw to it whilst laid on my back beneath the strut. I now face the same challenge with the other one (..except I can't even loosen the top bolt on the second one yet)

cheers for any tips

i changed mine a while back but seem to remember there is a place (ON THE ORIGINALS) for a flat open ended spanner bout 17mm i think in between the mount and the ball? and the new ones i fitted had a place for a torx drive in the end of the bolt where the nut goes on? If i still got the old ones i'll check and let you know but think i might have chucked em

[thebadger]

^
Yeah I had that bit on my old ones too! But I couldn't get anything to fit or grip it!

Gave up & used my tension method, wich worked a treat! If you do the top bolt first you can swing the link down & press it with your foot for tension on the lower joint!

Remember that lots of car wheel nut spanners are 17mm (19 mm for the volvos) so if you have an extending multi head one, it will fit.. or a spider!

Good advice is to let some oil sit on it a while to ease it.

[5seaterT5x2]

^
Yeah I had that bit on my old ones too! But I couldn't get anything to fit or grip it!

Gave up & used my tension method, wich worked a treat! If you do the top bolt first you can swing the link down & press it with your foot for tension on the lower joint!

Remember that lots of car wheel nut spanners are 17mm (19 mm for the volvos) so if you have an extending multi head one, it will fit.. or a spider!

Good advice is to let some oil sit on it a while to ease it.

Dunno cant remember what i used spanner wise might have been my longnose mole vice/grips

[thebadger]

Brilliant tools mole grips! Saves you every time!

[Nico20V]

Cheers guys

Yer, i didn't have any mole grips to hand, but figured they might do the trick.
Tried the angle grinder, but its a bench mounted one and I couldn't get it in there,lol.
Replacments from PFVs didn't have torx ends but must check one I've removed so far and see if it does..one I took off had 17mm bolt but this stubborn F*er is 15mm ones.

[Dangerous Dave]

I had two flats on the back of the stud on my droplinks to fit a spanner over like badger and t5 had. Even the new pattern parts from ECP that I put on ahd the flats on them?

Wierd

[Quicksilver]

Just done both of mine, just used mole grips on them, 10mins off, the new ones had an alan key slot in the end to hold them while you tighten them up.

And what a differance, wish I'd done them ages ago.

[Wobbly Dave]

15 or 16mm thin head spanner (sorry i don't remember which) is needed to hold the end in place. (you may have to push the rubber boot back to see the edges.)
To avoid issues with the ARB - jack the car in the centre so that both front wheels are off the ground - thus removing the tension. I've never yet needed an angle grinder but I can see what the others are talking about.

[Nico20V]

Cheers all

[LeeT5]

Ok, so I know its elementary, but how do you guys get round the fact that once worn, the bolt is just guna spin on the bottom arm when you try to remove the bolt!? I tried filing the inner side of the link bit to try and get some purchase with some plairs so I could then work the bolt from the other side, but that was just too bloody awkward so in the end I took a metal saw to it whilst laid on my back beneath the strut. I now face the same challenge with the other one (..except I can't even loosen the top bolt on the second one yet)

cheers for any tips

All you need to do is tighten them with an air gun. This shears the thread and then you just pull them off...Easy!! Takes 2 seconds! The new links come with new nuts anyway. :B_thumb: