rear rattle

[HADI]

amongst the other problems in the v70r i bought, there is a rattle coming from the rear offside, im sure its that wheel because going over bumps the noise is more prominent with that wheel, volvo specialist cant find anything wrong but mention some bushes needing done on some bit on the front, but i think it wont solve problem as im sure its rear end,the suspension topsi know are prone to go on these, what sort of noise does it make when its went faulty, quite sure it aint the hatch or exhaust..........help

[jez.w]

Last year i had a knocking rattling noise coming from what i thought was the rear suspension on my 850 T5. I was 100% sure it was rear suspension!!! I could not see anything wrong with it after several good looks so i took it to a garage for them to look on a proper ramp. They could not find anything on the rear either, but they said my front drop links were worn. So i replaced them with some from PFV. I didnt expect this to cure it but they needed doing anyway. Amazingly the new drop links did cure the knocking noise, I was convinced the noise was coming from the rear suspension but it obviously wasnt?????

Front drop links are not expensive so its worth changing them anyway if they have been on the car a while, easy job too. It could well be this, as it is a common thing to go on the 850/70 suspension.

My mates 850 T5 had a bad knocking/chattering noise coming from the rear and that turned out to be a rear delta link whiched had failed, you could see the rubber had broken away and the bush was moving inside itself (if you know what i mean), i think it cost him £350 to get both replaced with pattern parts in the end. Rear delta links are a bitch to do yourself as they dont come out easily.

[flyingbrick]

Same ere. I had a problem with a noise thought it was coming from the n/side rear turned out to be a n/side front link bar. push down on the front suspension see if you get a knocking noise.

[HADI]

got it back from volvomax today, still rattling, said he checked the delta things, also meant to be sorting the pcv valve, but its still puffing smoke out the dipstick hole,

here is the bill listed

s/f 2 front link rods £56.00

clean out breather system + pipes
+ oil addative £45.00

total inc vat £116.15

how can the smoke still be coming out if he has sorted it, im at the point where i will put it in to volvo to sort , i dont care bout the cost i just want to enjoy the car which ive not done since buying it from Daryl.

[nobananas]

If you haven't sorted this yet take a look at the big metal disc/lump that holds down the rear coil springs into the trailing arms. I've had the securing nut work loose on mine before causing the disc to rattle around inside the spring, took me a little while to find it too. (check them with the weight on them, not jacked up)

[HADI]

If you haven't sorted this yet take a look at the big metal disc/lump that holds down the rear coil springs into the trailing arms. I've had the securing nut work loose on mine before causing the disc to rattle around inside the spring, took me a little while to find it too. (check them with the weight on them, not jacked up)

cheers will do. i remember the bit your talking about from when i got my shocks and springs changed on my S70R, and the guy didnt tighten up correctly and it rattled too, i had forgotten about that till you mentioned it :O)

[HADI]

just checked the above mentioned part and you were 100% correct its loose, how does it tighten as the whole bolt turns and the top of it seems to be flat and round, doesnt look like a spanner will hold it whilst i tighten up the nut on the bottom :frown:

[nobananas]

If memory serves (which it often doesn't !) The bolt should be captive and fixed to the metal lump and the metal lump has a peg in the bottom of it which locates in a hole in the trailing arm to prevent it turning HOWEVER.....when I changed the springs on mine the captive part of the bolt broke free (held captive on the top of the metal lumpy disc thing) so the whole bolt would turn and the only thing I could do was to weld it back on so I could then undo the nut. The peg on the metal lump had also sheared off on one side resulting in the whole thing going round (had to hold it with big waterpump pliers). If the bolt is turning when you try to tighten the nut you could try cutting the nut off and replacing the whole captive bolt with a longer regular bolt with a normal head on it so you can hold it with a spanner.