front top mounts and wheel bearings.

[Benny Boy]

Hi all,

I have an N-reg 850 T5 estate which needs a new front passenger side wheel bearing and both front rubber top mounts.

I've been putting off doing the wheel bearing but it really needs to be done soon. while i'm at it, i'm going to replace the top mounts as they are perished and squeeking. there is also a bit of play there.

I've read the guides on replacing the wheel bearings, some say its easy, some don't which is why i've been putting it off.

My question is;

whats involved in replacing the top mounts? do i need to remove the dampers from the steer knuckles? and remove them completely from the car? do i need any special tools or to apply heat anywhere?

I've had the front wheels off and there seems to be quite a bit of corrosion to the bolts, nuts etc. is this normal and should i let it put me off doing the work myself?

I've been wanting to sell the car for a while but feel that these problems really let the car down.

any advise on replacing both items would be much appreciated.

thanks in advance

Ben

[t5 pete]

The top mounts are easy to replace the rust you talk about on the nuts and bolts is just surface rust give them a rub with a wire brush then spray some plus gass on or releasent on them.
The best thing to do is have a look in the haynes

[Dangerous Dave]

I've been putting my wheel bearing off too, but had to replace the O/S cv joint, and the bearing was too bad to keep on, so I bought a new one and fitted the cv joint and bearing at the same time. Its a piece of cake if you know your stuff, the only problem I can see is if the driveshaft splines have rusted/stuck to the wheel bearing, then you'll ned a puller. But mine came out without a problem.

[Dangerous Dave]

Oh and you'll need an E14 female star socket to remove the wheel bearing bolts, and the wheel bearing is an interference fit in the hub, so you have to tap it out.

Here's some pics

Old and new wheel bearings (£50 from eurocarparts)
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/wheel/26052009060.jpg

Wheel hub minus bearing
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/wheel/26052009058.jpg

New bearing fitted
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/wheel/26052009061.jpg

AWD Driveshaft
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/wheel/26052009063.jpg

New CV Joint (£27 cheapo one off ebay) Comes with new nut, but its smaller and looks crappier than the current one, so I re-used it (it was new last year anyway, only a few quid off PFV).
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/wheel/23052009049.jpg

[Torch S70R]

did you remove your caliper completely?
and also does the driveshaft come out of the bearing whilst its attached to the hub?
im also looking at doing both of mine probably :)

also mine is 02/98 S70, i take it this means that it will be the 26 spline kit that i need?

[Benny Boy]

when i took the wheels off to have a look, it seemed like the female spline fasteners holding the bearing to the hub where obscured by the cv joint.

I take it you have to seperate the ball joint and track rod arms first and push the drive shaft through the bearing before removing the bearing from the hub?

when replacing the top mounts, i guess i could then just undo the bolts to the turret and drop the whole damper out including the knuckle?

what about undoing the hub nuts? are they standard threaded or reversed?
i take it a big breaker bar is required?

[Dangerous Dave]

Yes the CV joint obscures the wheel bearing bolts, so the driveshaft has to come out first.

And yes I did remove the caliper completely but only undid the caliper bracket bolts as there is no need to separate the caliper from the bracket. The brake disc needs to come off to remove the bearing.

I only undid the bottom ball joint, as the leg will move enough to get the drivesahft out without having to undo the track rod end. (you could even turn the steering so the track rod end moves out more thus letting the leg move more)

The bearing nuts are not that tight. I used my torque wrench to undo them (only because its longer) The bolts were a bit tight coming out as the ends protrude out the front of the bearing mount (see picture). Plenty of WD40 and some wire brushing helps.

Oh, and the biggest problem is the driveshaft nut (its a standard thread BTW check out the picture above). I had to get a socket from halfords as it is a large nut (socket is in one of the pictures above), I used a t-bar and an 6 foot length of scaffold bar to undo the nut, its a tight fecker. Best to do it while the wheel is still on the ground (just remove the centre plastic volvo cap from the wheel). I changed my cousins CV gaitor on his V70 recently, and we broke 2 extension bars trying to undo the driveshaft nut! So make sure you use good quality tools (as the ones we broke were crap)

Yes you could just remove the complete leg to do the mounts and bearing in one go, only extra work to do is crack the track rod end and undo the top mount bolts.

I changed my front shock absorbers and top mounts recently, only took me 20 minutes per side (thats including cleaning out the dust covers as they were filthy).

[woz]

so no need to dismantle the strut using spring compressor sto do the top mount then?
Cheers
W

[Dangerous Dave]

oh yeah, you do need spring compressors

[Benny Boy]

thanks for all the info, much appreciated,

I think i know what i need to do, i just need to get on and order the bits and do it.

so wheres the best place to get the parts? genuine, or pattern?

thanks again.

[Dangerous Dave]

I've gone for pattern parts as genuine are out of my price range unfortunately.

Got my CV joint off ebay for £27 and the wheel bearing from eurocarparts for £50

[Torch S70R]

have you done this yet bennyboy?
ive just ordered up the parts so looking to tackle it this weekend :worried:
i assume the 850 '95 5 stud nut will fit the early '98 S70 as well ?
also bought new bolts for holding the bearing on just in case
will let you know how i get on :)

[Benny Boy]

i need to use the car to get to work and back tomorrow and then its off the road. i lift share so don't need it for 2 weeks after that.

i plan to make a start fri or saturday if the weathers good as i will do the work on the driveway.

a friend up the road has a 36mm socket and a breaker bar so that will be the first task. i need to retrieve my axle stands from him also.

seperating the wish bones from the hubs and extracting the drive shafts worry me as some say the shafts don't like sliding back through the bearing assy.

once thats all done and the strut is off, i'll order the parts. it will give me time to inspect everything else.

i plan to give it an oil change and replace the top engine mount while i have all the kit out.

i'll take some pics and reply back on how it all goes.

cheers for all the advice everyone.

[Torch S70R]

managed to borrow a 3/4" socket set from work which goes upto 50mm and the breaker bar is massive, and that did the trick. Needed to use the extension on the breaker bar taking it out to about 3 1/2 feet, make sure you've got someone standing on the brakes otherwise the car will just rock back and forth ;) also turn the wheels slightly so the bar isn't near the bodywork

i think for the driveshaft separation im going to try tapping the nut first to see if that will shift it, maybe even use some heat. its either that or i need to invest in a puller which cost around a tenner

bought the bearing from eurocarparts and bought the hub nut / bearing bolts from PFV online
hopefully get the rest tackled on saturday

[Dangerous Dave]

Didn't you get new bolts in with the bearing from eurocarparts? I did with mine, I bought the £50 one?

[Torch S70R]

doh! didnt realise the bearing came with the bolts so i went ahead and ordered them from pfv
ah well at least i'll have a spare set :D

[Dangerous Dave]

LOL dude, its always good to have a spare.

[Benny Boy]

i'm just starting the job now.

are both big 36mm drive shaft nuts standard threads? or is one reverse?

[Dangerous Dave]

So, how did it go?

[Torch S70R]

well mine didnt go too well :(
stripped the threads on the pinch bolt :grumpy:
gonna have a crack at removing the dodgy bolt tomorrow either using heat or grind the head off and smack it through that way

[Benny Boy]

ok, this is how i got on today.

first i got both drive shaft nuts loosened using a 4' bar with the wife stood on the brake pedel. result.

i then started on the passenger side. brake caliper off and removed the wishbone. i managed to "tap" the driveshaft through the hub.
2 of the bearing assy bolts rounded so i had to grind the heads off. but it all came off in the end without damaging the hub.

i took the track rod end off the hub and the torque links which where knackered. the hold and drive feature on the drop links was usless as the 4mm allen key just couldn't stop the thread turning so that got cut off as well.
dropped the strut out and dissassembled it. the top mount is completely shot to bits. the top bearing looks ok with no play in it.

i took some pics so i'll post them later on tonight.
i jacked the car up on the other side, removed the wheel and made it all safe for tonight. i'll carry with the other side tomorrow.

Parts required so far are:

passenger side wheel bearing inc new bolts.
track rod end
drop link
top mount.

The wheel bearing on the drivers side is still quite so i'm still unsure if i'm going to change it.
but i'll need a drivers side top mount and a drop link as well if i have to cut it off.

i'll order all the bits on monday. i'll post some pics later.

Ben

[Benny Boy]

oh forgot to mention, one of the bolt heads on the brake gaurd plate sheared off. i imagine it will rattle now if i leave it on.

is it realy required? or shall i just leave it off?

[Dangerous Dave]

Brake Guard? i didnt remove mine

Sounds like you guys had a really bad day.

[Benny Boy]

i didn't have to remove the brake gaurd but as i removed the whole strut, it just got in the way when it was off the car, and as soon as i touched one of the bolts with a socket, the head sheared. wish i'd left it know but hey ho.

would it matter to much if i just removed the whole plate and left it off?

if i can get the drivers side to the same state tomorrow, i'll be happy. like i said, i'm in no rush as i don't need the car for another 2 weeks.

would be nice to have it back together again for next weekends mrg meet in chippenham.

i'll order all the bits monday.

[AlanG]

Haven't read this thread from the beginning Ben but from experience,ft wheel bearings can be a real headache on the 850. I don't mean replacing them as that is simple enough. Getting the correct part can be the problem. There are 5 different units. 1 for the early 4 stud and 4 for the later car. Even a ch no doesn't ensure the correct part. Wish you every success.

[Benny Boy]

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/866/dsc00088qjv.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/dsc00088qjv.jpg/)

Top mount on the strut.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3927/dsc00095v.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/dsc00095v.jpg/)

Top mount off the strut.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/7630/dsc00096l.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/dsc00096l.jpg/)

Sheared bolt on brake plate.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8352/dsc00094f.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/dsc00094f.jpg/)

All the bits and pieces in my shed.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/2433/dsc00090v.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/dsc00090v.jpg/)

How i've left it.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/282/dsc00092white.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/dsc00092white.jpg/)

On the drive, with the wifes Corrado.

[Torch S70R]

lovin the shed m8 :D
got mine sitting on stands also ready for another crack at it tomorrow

[AlanG]

How much is the fresh air tax on a shed like that?? Want one.....

[AlanG]

Oh and love Corrados. Please tell me it's a VR6??

[p fandango]

can't help but i do like the fridge you've got in the shed

[AlanG]

can't help but i do like the fridge you've got in the shed

Filled with the life blood that is beer??

[p fandango]

oh forgot to mention, one of the bolt heads on the brake gaurd plate sheared off. i imagine it will rattle now if i leave it on.

is it realy required? or shall i just leave it off?
i did think about removing my brake guards so interested to hear peoples opinions (they'll probably go anyway lol)

[AlanG]

Now see what you've done,Ben. He'll be removing the brakes now.......Hope you're pleased with yourself!

[p fandango]

Now see what you've done,Ben. He'll be removing the brakes now.......Hope you're pleased with yourself!
i did think about going back to 280's to save a bit of weight, but as one of my missions is to have ago on the Nurburg ring i think it might be wise to still with the 302's

[AlanG]

Well, always fancied a go at the ring.........don't misunderstand as I'm very heterosexual........Maybe one day. Have you watched the you tube vid with the T5?

[p fandango]

Have you watched the you tube vid with the T5?
i've got a collection of Volvo videos on my comp & sure the ring vid is on there, its going to be the journey there thats going to be the worst part in that bloody thing lol

[AlanG]

Well mate,at the risk of wrath from the tartan rugs on here.........windows and foot down!!

[AlanG]

Ehhhhhhh,do your windows still wind down??

[p fandango]

Well mate,at the risk of wrath from the tartan rugs on here.........windows and foot down!!
thats one of the problems, the perspex windows are sealing up & got no ventilation in there lol

sorry for hijacking the thread

[AlanG]

Oh bugger!!

[p fandango]

Oh bugger!!
i think it might get a bit warm, i can picture a repeat of the James May & the track day Aston (i feel sorry for the passenger who comes with me lol)

[Torch S70R]

got the pinch bolt sorted, do i have to remove the track rod ends before dropping the lower a frame?

[AlanG]

i think it might get a bit warm, i can picture a repeat of the James May & the track day Aston (i feel sorry for the passenger who comes with me lol)

I'm still tryin' to forget that one..........

[AlanG]

got the pinch bolt sorted, do i have to remove the track rod ends before dropping the lower a frame?

If you mean the lower wishbone then no.

[Benny Boy]

morning all,

thanks for all the replies, i built my shed at the beginning of this year, the fridge, car stereo with subs were an after thought but makes it a nice place to be...

The wifes corrado is a 2ltr 16v. she loves it to bits.

i removed the wishbone aswell as it made seperating the ball joint easier. its only held on with just two bolts which are easy to get at.
can you replace the wishbone bushes to chassis?

I might remove the brake gaurds and see what happens. i can't stand rattles.

I'll make a start on the other side in a bit.

cheers.

oh yeah, i'd be well up for a "ring" trip. make a nice change from Le Mans.

[Torch S70R]

got mine done today, took my time and had plenty of breaks :)
driveshaft needed a puller as it was tight as feck, accidentally separated the driveshaft from the cv joint and didnt realise there was a circlip and just pushed it back in.
hope this hasnt caused any damage?

car drives really smooth and quiet now :)
well chuffed and gonna look at doing my front struts soon now that i know how easy it is to get at them :)

[Benny Boy]

good work on getting it done.

i have stripped down the drivers side strut today, the top mount isn't as bad as the passenger one but till needs changing.

i decided that i will change the wheel bearing on the driverside as it was off and accessable.

So, i need to order:

Pair of wheel bearings inc the bolts.
pair of drop links.
pair of top mounts.

engine top mount bush.
oil filter and oil.

the passenger track rod end doesn't look the best but feels ok so i'll get it all back together and perhaps change that in the near future.

She'll be well smooth and quiet when that little lot is done.

cheers for all the help.

Ben

[Torch S70R]

yep oil change is next and thats my service completed :)
got the parts just need the oil now

[AlanG]

And you can recoup some dosh by not going to the gym for a bit as you'll have had plenty exercise!!!!!:band:

[AlanG]

yep oil change is next and thats my service completed :)
got the parts just need the oil now

Got mine from Halfrauds for a decent sum. 10/40 semi........

[Torch S70R]

well looks like i'll need to do the near side one as well LOL, its just started to HUM by which i mean its making a noise and not smelling like a turd LOL

[Benny Boy]

mine all done, both sides. put back together and its so smooth and quiet now. i also did an oil change, and the difference is amazing. the front end feels really sure footed now.

i treated it to a full polish over the weekend and its looking great too.