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View Full Version : Boost Valve has little effect



TenaciousC
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 07:55
Hi All,

Have fitted a boost valve (originally purchased for a Nissan200SX) between the Boost control solenoid and the turbo actuator.

Spiel on valve (http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=120_451_121_128_316&products_id=520&PHPSESSID=1fa18971257dbdd8c87ecc3c29577551)

It is of the spring/ball-bearing type with an ajustable screw which stops pressure reaching the turbo wastegate actuator thus preventing it opening thus increasing boost.

Results of fitting this were not quite as I imagined. Boost levels have not radically changed.
Needle is going into the white area, but not all the way across. I have been progressively closing the valve but no obvious improvement.

I'm wondering if the wastegate actuator is broken. I can move the arm manually - whilst there is resistance - I would have expected it to be stiffer. Is this normal?

Cheers

Chris

850 t5 vs 600cc
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 08:45
how much boost are you getting at the minute?

TenaciousC
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 09:37
I don't have a proper gauge yet so can can only say (using the standard dashboard gauge) in general the needle goes to the middle of the white area and a little further at high rpm if you really go for it.

C

BigV
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 09:53
Have you completely disconnected the factory fitted BCS from all the air pipes? (but still leave it plugged in to the power cord)

My understanding is that the manual boost controller should completely replace the factory fitted boost control solenoid......, certainly that is how I set them up on my old 850 T5.

I mean other problems could be numerous to be honest.... air/boost leaks are most common, but dodgy ignition or fuel injectors etc etc could cause issues.

TenaciousC
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 10:11
No the BCS is still connected. To my mind the valve should augment the control effects of the BCS. The less pressure at the actuator the more boost you should get. If you completely disconnected the hose, you would get the most boost (although un controlled). This is why I think the actuator may not working correctly, i.e. it is allowing waste gate to open too easily.

However I suppose my question is still "should I be able to move the actuator control arm with gentle force"? On my 200sx I can't do this - hence my concern.

Cheers

C

AlanG
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 18:16
First thing I did on buying my T5 was adjust out any wear in the actuator mechanism. You sound pretty clued up,have you already done this? Secondly,after I had mine re-mapped I wanted a little bit extra so fitted an R-Spec mbc and fitted it as per their instruction (BCS removed but still electrically connected). It was fully adjusted but didn't seem to have a huge influence. Having spoken to Hamish at HLM,I plumbed the BCS back in and backed the MBC off,then back up in 1/4 turn increments until the dash guage just off scale. Done 1000 miles since and no problems. Suppose my point is that your controller is fitted correctly and as you've been working in that area,you'll have checked for any split vac pipes etc. I'm assuming your mbc is a universal one?

BigV
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 18:43
I haven't heard of running both the BCS and an MBC at the same time.... how does one plumb it in properly?????

I have an MBC ready to fit but I was just planning on removing the BCS and leaving it electronically connected to avoid warning lights etc.

AlanG
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 18:59
That's the way to do it buddy. You'll find the vac pipes at the BCS are colour coded. Split the yellow one (BCS to actuator) and install it there. Basically means that your ecu is still in ultimate control but allows for an increase in boost. Hamish at HLM told me this so anyone not in agreement,take it up with him :uglyhamme

BigV
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 19:10
That's the way to do it buddy. You'll find the vac pipes at the BCS are colour coded. Split the yellow one (BCS to actuator) and install it there. Basically means that your ecu is still in ultimate control but allows for an increase in boost. Hamish at HLM told me this so anyone not in agreement,take it up with him :uglyhamme

What PSI have you got it set to with the rica map.......... I know mine is hitting about 16.5 with the rica, but it is the quick launch of the MBC I am really after, so im thinking of fitting it and setting it for about 14.5 to 15 to be safe.

AlanG
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 19:13
This is where I get criticised as I don't have an accurate guage:nono:Just tickled the mbc till the dash guage just off the scale. Goes like the wind and 30+mpg.

p fandango
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 19:19
Basically means that your ecu is still in ultimate control but allows for an increase in boost
the ECU will only have any form of control if the MBC is set lower than the standard boost level. Setting it like that will give a better boost pick-up but won't increase the boost any

it does make installation alot easier tho

AlanG
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 19:22
Can't argue my friend as I don't know enough about it. Just went on what Hamish told me. Noticeable power increase with the mbc though.

TenaciousC
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 19:43
First thing I did on buying my T5 was adjust out any wear in the actuator mechanism.

Can I ask how this is done? Is there a howto somewhere?

Cheers

C

PS. Just ordered boost gauge ;-)

AlanG
Saturday 23rd May 2009, 20:32
Remove the heatshield (I'm sure there is a thread somewhere on here that gives a how to,try a search) undo the locknut on the actuator rod and remove the r-clip.If I'm correct,the popular method is to shorten the rod by 8 HALF-turns and re-assemble. Certainly noticed a difference with mine and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will correct me HTH.

TenaciousC
Sunday 24th May 2009, 20:52
Hi,

10(ish) turns on the actuator rod and winding MBC in has helped, and now needle is getting to end of the white. Will fit boost gauge before attempting anything further. Thanks for the advice.

C

t5lover
Sunday 24th May 2009, 21:06
mine runs on standard ecu and am using bcs and mbc and the actuator i turned it about 2-3 times and she is boosting about 14.5-6 psi and she is wicked,,

AlanG
Sunday 24th May 2009, 22:07
Hi,

10(ish) turns on the actuator rod and winding MBC in has helped, and now needle is getting to end of the white. Will fit boost gauge before attempting anything further. Thanks for the advice.

C

Glad to be of help buddy. Was that 10 half-turns? Mine is a couple of mm beyond the scale and will probably need to replace front tyres every couple o weeks:funkybana

TenaciousC
Sunday 24th May 2009, 22:42
Glad to be of help buddy. Was that 10 half-turns?

10 Full - I think! Am about 5mm before the end of the thread on the arm. Perhaps my actautor is knackered. Anyway boost has improved and no fuel cut so I'm happy (for now) ;-) :firedevil

C

AlanG
Sunday 24th May 2009, 22:51
That's a drastic adjustment! No expert but sounds like a cooked actuator. I'm sure someone better qualified will have some advice. :shockedbi

t5lover
Sunday 24th May 2009, 22:56
That's a drastic adjustment! No expert but sounds like a cooked actuator. I'm sure someone better qualified will have some advice. :shockedbi

i would say the same mate its fit for the bin mate lol,,,,

cherry1809
Monday 25th May 2009, 09:29
Why leave the BCS wires connected?
I took mine right off on my last T5 with no problems :confused:

TenaciousC
Tuesday 26th May 2009, 07:12
Why leave the BCS wires connected?
I took mine right off on my last T5 with no problems :confused:

AlanG answers this in post#8 of this thread

C

TenaciousC
Tuesday 26th May 2009, 07:19
I spoke too soon about "no" fuel cut. When joining the motorway yesterday I got one (needle was within white area), so it would be reasonable to assume there is a boost leak somewhere.

All hoses look OK. I wonder if it's the intercooler? Are they prone to leakage? Car has done 112K miles.

Cheers

C

TenaciousC
Tuesday 9th June 2009, 14:27
Found a big split in the hose that goes from the throttle body towards the intercooler. Just replaced host... WOW! car is now much better. Getting about 12-13psi boost. One thing I noticed is that when I use the kickdown the boost spikes up to 20psi for a second. There is no fuel cut though. Is this normal or am I going to break something?

Cheers

C

callyuk
Tuesday 9th June 2009, 15:14
thats the same problem as i am suffering with atm tenaciousC havent got to the bottom of it yet but been told it might be down to the actuator being to tight

TenaciousC
Tuesday 9th June 2009, 22:20
it might be down to the actuator being to tight

Yeah that was my first thought. I'll take some turns off the actuator arm and post back if it makes any difference.

C

callyuk
Tuesday 9th June 2009, 22:50
gonna have a look at mine tomorrow as well so will let you know how i get on

callyuk
Wednesday 10th June 2009, 16:23
how did you get on tenC.
iv done mine even though i had to take the whole actuator off as the locking nut was rounded and it was the only way i could get grips on it.
anyway i adjusted it and it has made a difference although still not completely cured but the spike isnt as bad anymore.

TenaciousC
Thursday 11th June 2009, 09:59
Hi Callyuk,

Will have a crack at it at the weekend and let you know.

Cheers

C