Lpt mbc

[Dangerous Dave]

Just fitted an mbc to my 850 AWD with the LPT engine. Got it boosting to around 9-10psi at the moment, and wow what a difference it makes!

Just thought I would report on my experience for the LPT owners, as there's not much info about mbc's fitted to these engines.

[flyingbrick]

Sounds great but wot is a mbc ??????

[Al115]

Manual Boost Controller mate...

[Dangerous Dave]

Manual Boost Controller

[Dangerous Dave]

Beat me to it Al LOL

[flyingbrick]

Ye I knew that only kidding.....:smirk: LOL and more LOL............

[flyingbrick]

Current Volvos: ONLY ONE! 2001 S40 T4 (built engine, tuning pending...) Previous Volvos: 2x 1999 S40 T4, 2003 V40 T4, 1999 V70 T5, 1996 854 T5 & 855 T5, 1995 855 T5, and a 480...

Sorry but I have to say you have a volvo fetish and I think its great.......

[1996 850 T5]

what type did you use bomb?

ive seen a few mbcs on the market, some fancy 3 piece 'turbosmart' types ones, which i dont fully understand, and then the other, dead simple 'interupter' pressure release jobbies.

[Dangerous Dave]

Current Volvos: ONLY ONE! 2001 S40 T4 (built engine, tuning pending...) Previous Volvos: 2x 1999 S40 T4, 2003 V40 T4, 1999 V70 T5, 1996 854 T5 & 855 T5, 1995 855 T5, and a 480...

Sorry but I have to say you have a volvo fetish and I think its great.......

LOL dude, guilty as charged


what type did you use bomb?

ive seen a few mbcs on the market, some fancy 3 piece 'turbosmart' types ones, which i dont fully understand, and then the other, dead simple 'interupter' pressure release jobbies.

I'm using an Rspec mbc, with only the two ports on it, the three port valves are bleed valves, which people have said say are not the way to go.

http://www.rspec.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=206

I have to say, the company have an excellent customer service, as I bought the wrong valve, and they exchanged it within a day of me sending it back!

[1996 850 T5]

yep, same as mine, so simple!

[MrMopp]

If anyone wants a two port MBC i have 2 here brand new never fitted they are available for cost of postage ;)

[888dee]

If anyone wants a two port MBC i have 2 here brand new never fitted they are available for cost of postage ;)

would be very interested in relieving you of one of those :)



I also assume a boost gauge is a must, bomb don't suppose you could do me a quick how to with the parts required... and there was me saying I wouldn't modify the 850!

[MrMopp]

would be very interested in relieving you of one of those :)

PM your address mate and ill post it out then give you a shout with cost ;)

[Al115]

Current Volvos: ONLY ONE! 2001 S40 T4 (built engine, tuning pending...) Previous Volvos: 2x 1999 S40 T4, 2003 V40 T4, 1999 V70 T5, 1996 854 T5 & 855 T5, 1995 855 T5, and a 480...

Sorry but I have to say you have a volvo fetish and I think its great.......

LOLvo :D

[Dangerous Dave]

I have fitted a set of clocks from an 850 T5 which have the boost gauge built in. Obviously its not very accurate, but at least I know that if it goes off the end of the white strip then I'm in trouble LOL.

Here's a step by step to go with these diagrams

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/mbcinstallation.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/boost001.jpg

1) disconnect the blue pipe from the air intake pipe and then plug hole on the intake pipe it comes off

2) disconnect the green pipe from the control valve and connect it to the bottom of the mbc (or the port where the ball and spring presses against)

3) disconnect the yellow pipe from the control valve and connect it to the other port on the mbc

4) leave the wiring loom plugged in to the control valve as the ecu will throw a code otherwise

5) secure the mbc to something (i cable tied mine to the upper engine mount for easy adjustment) and cable tie the pipes to the mbc (dont want them coming off)

6) now comes the tricky bit. You have to adjust the mbc to the pressure you want. Now the way I did it was to unscrew the mbc control knob til the spring was just pushing on the ball, take the car out for a drive and see what it boosts to (obviously get a gauge fitted first LOL), then adjust the mbc up from there 'til the desired boost is achieved.

I've got mine set around 9-10psi (from what I can gather from the standard gauge).

Now there are some things you have to be aware of, I'm not sure what will happen if you go pedal happy from low revs. I've not gone WOT in 2nd/3rd until around 3K rpm, as you know, our turbos spool up faster than a bigger turbo, and with our higher compression engines too much boost at low revs will give you some banana shaped rods and a huge headache!

Must report though that the power now doesn't die off at 4000-4500rpm, it just keeps coming. Haven't had the chance yet to do motorway testing, so don't know what its like holding the power down.

Also, I've experienced a drop in mpg down from 19-20 to 15-17, though don't know whether this is due to my heavy right foot and smile, or something else.

HTH, give me a shout if you've got any questions.

Bomb

[Dangerous Dave]

and there was me saying I wouldn't modify the 850!

Me either to an extent, but I was just not happy with the lack of top end grunt, but this seems to make up for it, I have a HUGE grin every time I press the loud pedal, it gives you such a kick in back.

BTW the max pressure that the 13G turbo will achieve is around 17psi

Like I said before please, please, please be careful, as it can all end in tears.

[888dee]

brill bomb, and yes I know all about the pitfalls of turbo engines and excessive boost, seen my share of blown up cossies and rs turbo's...

need a boost gauge now :)

[Alan M]

You can just fit the MBC in the red line from the BCV to the turbo with the BCV still connected. You won't have to disconnect anything then, just fit the MBC in the vac pipework.

[888dee]

alan, forgive my ignorance but would leaving the stock boost control valve connect not limit you to the original level of boost?

or does the BCV allow the boost continue to rise until a certain level of vac is attained?

[850twr]

alan, forgive my ignorance but would leaving the stock boost control valve connect not limit you to the original level of boost?

or does the BCV allow the boost continue to rise until a certain level of vac is attained?

yeh im 99% sure ur right mate, wouldn't matter how cranked up the mbc is because the bcs will just limit it to stock levels.

[Dangerous Dave]

And it doesn't control boost spikes effectively if you leave the bcs connected, according to the fitting guide on VS

Also another update, I've just managed 26mpg driving to and from work 4 times today (all urban driving), I've never got that before.

[1996 850 T5]

I have done it differently on my T5

I have done as alan m said, and plumbed the MBC inline between the BCS and the actuator.

The actuator opening is what stops boost being produced, the BCS just controls the signal to it. With the MBC controlling what the BCS sends to the actuator, its ultimately in control of what the boost setting is.

Thats how I figured it anyhow?

Maybe its just luck, but I dont get any spikes, just constant 10/11 psi

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu214/joeybaby83/SANY0259.jpg

[Jod T5]

You can just fit the MBC in the red line from the BCV to the turbo with the BCV still connected. You won't have to disconnect anything then, just fit the MBC in the vac pipework.

Surely this defeats the object of a MBC as the BCS will have already bled away boost...

"The 'LPT' cars can be run at HPT pressures, however due to the different internals (I believe the cylinder heads are more or less the same, it is the pistons that are different between cars of different compression ratios) you really MUST run a higher compression car on higher octane fuel to alleviate the onset of knock, which is much more likely if you increase the inlet temp by upping the boost pressure on the turbo. If you fitted a bigger turbo on an LPT car but left the ECU program alone, at the basic level you would have a car that has a slightly cooler inlet charge for the same boost pressure, but the boost would move up the rev range accordingly.
LPT cars are designed to mimic bigger capacity cars and give low to mid range grunt, hence the sizing and pressure settings of the turbos.
HPT cars are designed for mid to high end grunt and as such demand a different driving style (i.e. use of revs over 4000rpm) to get the best out of them."
Basically running a MBC on a LPT is going to cause more rod issues than it would on a T5...
Cheers
Jod

[1996 850 T5]

Jod, my understanding is that the BCS is just an electronically controlled bleed valve, i.e. the BCS doesnt bleed away enough to effect the actual pressure in say, the plenum etc, it simply controls the signal to the actautor by bleeding off a minute amount of pressure to the wastegate.

so its the actuator that controls the boost level, so if the mbc is in control of the Actuator, the MBC is therefore in control.

If Im talking cobblers (could be, its just my take on the matter)? please let me know.

[p fandango]

Jod, my understanding is that the BCS is just an electronically controlled bleed valve, i.e. the BCS doesnt bleed away enough to effect the actual pressure in say, the plenum etc, it simply controls the signal to the actautor by bleeding off a minute amount of pressure to the wastegate.

so its the actuator that controls the boost level, so if the mbc is in control of the Actuator, the MBC is therefore in control.

If Im talking cobblers (could be, its just my take on the matter)? please let me know.
the actuators on T-5's are only set to 3psi, its the BCS that raises it to 9.6psi, you've got the principle right but the BCS bleeds off alot more than you think

& Jod you are correct having both the BCS & MBC inline is pointless as the MBC will have overall control of the boost as its totally stopping the air to the actuator so the ECU still won't have any control over the boost (ie no limp home mode)

[1996 850 T5]

Yeah I know what you mean Pedro, but still dont understand your point?

So how would you plumb an MBC so that you still have limp home mode?

[p fandango]

Yeah I know what you mean Pedro, but still dont understand your point?
its the ecu & BCS that controls the boost, the actuator is set low


So how would you plumb an MBC so that you still have limp home mode?
it can't i'm afraid, don't get me wrong i love MBC's but you've got to know what your doing with them

[Dangerous Dave]

I think what he's trying to say is that the ecu doesn't know how much boost the turbo is producing, the bcs operates at set times according to the information available from the inputs that the ecu does have i.e. throttle position, rpm, etc. We are manipulating the boost to almost double what the ecu thinks is there. So if you back off the throttle at a time when the bcs is bleeding off all the air, the the wastegate won't operate, thus causing a boost spike (i guess). Thats why remaps are better as they are programmed with approximate boost levels to match the inputs.

The wastegate actuator operates on a pressure of 1.8psi (for t5 engines). The lpt actuator uses 2.6psi (I think, its on another thread anyways).

[p fandango]

I think what he's trying to say is that the ecu doesn't know how much boost the turbo is producing, the bcs operates at set times according to the information available from the inputs that the ecu does have i.e. throttle position, rpm, etc. We are manipulating the boost to almost double what the ecu thinks is there. So if you back off the throttle at a time when the bcs is bleeding off all the air, the the wastegate won't operate, thus causing a boost spike (i guess). Thats why remaps are better as they are programmed with approximate boost levels to match the inputs.
the wastegate will only open when the boost reaches the maximum level, not when you back off the throttle. As some of the older members will know i'm "anti-remap", what i'm saying is if your going to use a MBC ditch the BCS & just leave it plugged in to keep the ECU happy, don't let it actually control the boost in any way


The wastegate actuator operates on a pressure of 1.8psi (for t5 engines). The lpt actuator uses 2.6psi (I think, its on another thread anyways).
i did see that thread & tbh no idea where they got that information, but i can tell you they are set higher than that (T-5's are anyway)

[Dangerous Dave]

Ah, fair enough mate, thanks for the info.:redface:

Anyways, I've left my BCS out of the loop, and I've still got a huge grin.

[1996 850 T5]

Ah, I see what you mean.

Does the BCS have a sensor or is it simply a valve?

[Dangerous Dave]

Its just a valve, so its triggered by the ecu guessing what the boost is.

[Dangerous Dave]

Adjusted it today a little. Now pushin about 11-12psi, been on the motorway, and the ignition cut came in at around 5500rpm at about 11psi, gonna turn it down now.

[1996 850 T5]

Do you mean fuel cut? if so my t5 does the same at 12psi, like hitting dog?

turned it down to 10 and no probs, can go full throttle till gear change

[Dangerous Dave]

yeah, thats it. I turned it down, but a little too much, will try again in the morning

[Alan M]

i did see that thread & tbh no idea where they got that information, but i can tell you they are set higher than that (T-5's are anyway)

From Vadis. The listthat Bomb posted is the one on the Vadis page I have but I don't know how to link it properly.

[p fandango]

From Vadis. The listthat Bomb posted is the one on the Vadis page I have but I don't know how to link it properly.
i've removed the BCS & use an Apexi AVC-R to raise & monitor the boost (accurate to 0.01bar) & with the old 15g fitted & often used to run direct actuator pressure, which ran at 0.3bar

with the brand-new Volvo 19t fitted & running direct actuator pressure it runs at 0.7bar, & i'm certain there wasn't a figure that high on the list posted

[tomtyres]

I had a 3-port bleed valve on my T5, set it to 14psi, and it was spot on!

[p fandango]

I had a 3-port bleed valve on my T5, set it to 14psi, and it was spot on!
i ran mine at 20.8psi :hilarious
http://www.covcrew.co.uk/volvo-850-t5/archive/interior/interior5.jpg

[Alan M]

Duane have you an AFR meter gauge system fitted? What sort of extra cooling did you use to keep the Turbo from getting to hot?

[Dangerous Dave]

So whats this the fuel cut at 12psi?

How do you get around it?

Or is it something more drastic than that?

[p fandango]

Duane have you an AFR meter gauge system fitted?
no not yet, i've got to get bigger injectors (currently running at 99.7% injector duty) so i'll get one fitted as soon as i get some sorted


What sort of extra cooling did you use to keep the Turbo from getting to hot?
tbh i can't remember what spec BT had got at the time, the benefit of the reverse flow would of helped it

[p fandango]

So whats this the fuel cut at 12psi?

How do you get around it?

Or is it something more drastic than that?
no totally standard, when i first fitted the MBC it ran well at 15psi but i didn't realise i'd got a split vac pipe. When i replaced it she boosted to 20

i don't recommend anyone try going anywhere near that high, 13psi is considered a safe limit

[Dangerous Dave]

Anyone know how the ecu knows its at 12psi? Or is it the knock sensors that trigger the fuel cut?

[timbo_1975]

ECU calculates boost pressure from throttle position and air temp sensor and MAF reading.

[Dangerous Dave]

So is the fuel cut bad for the engine?

[p fandango]

So is the fuel cut bad for the engine?
its there to protect your engine so not exactly bad, but once you've hit it you'll know how aggressive it is & won't want to hit it constantly for your own pleasure. Mine was set so close that any excess load would cause it to cut in, if i wanted to floor it i had to throw it down 2 gears

boost cut is normally around 15psi

[Jod T5]

ECU calculates boost pressure from throttle position and air temp sensor and MAF reading.

Actually the ECM does not calculate boost pressure but i accept the ignition will cut due to knock and Maf sensor inputs....There is no air temp, other than the input temp (maf) on the 850, the 70's are different....
Cheers
Jod

[Jod T5]

i ran mine at 20.8psi :hilarious
http://www.covcrew.co.uk/volvo-850-t5/archive/interior/interior5.jpg

Hey Duane...:)
Currently i am getting a compitant 19 psi using the back of a Rica with a MBC (yes all those years you have been on at me)....Not a hint of cut, strong but quick boost....AFR is good..I expect there is a little to play with...Running 15g and stock zorst too...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d157/jod1jod/various/05122008.jpg
Best
Jod

[p fandango]

Hey Duane...:)
Currently i am getting a compitant 19 psi using the back of a Rica with a MBC (yes all those years you have been on at me)....Not a hint of cut, strong but quick boost....AFR is good..I expect there is a little to play with...Running 15g and stock zorst too...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d157/jod1jod/various/05122008.jpg
Hi Mate, hows things?

well what can i say, MBC is the way to go lol. Always looks good seeing the needle go off the clock, i haven't tried it with the speedo yet tho lol. Have managed to find the higher boost cut off the ECU yet, just interested how much higher it is than standard? Are T-5's dar to run or what, i notice neither of us have got any fuel lol

take it easy mate

[Jod T5]

Hi Mate, hows things? well what can i say, MBC is the way to go lol. Always looks good seeing the needle go off the clock, i haven't tried it with the speedo yet tho lol. Have managed to find the higher boost cut off the ECU yet, just interested how much higher it is than standard? Are T-5's dar to run or what, i notice neither of us have got any fuel lol take it easy mate
Hi Duane...
The car was supposed to run a pressure of 9.x psi, which allegedly crept up to around the halfway mark on the instument panel dial....I never owned a new one so i cant collabourate this, however alot of the 850 i have found myself involed
with are only producing around 6psi which is really only about a third of the scale in my experience...The reasons for this are more likely to be down to bolt ons rather than the engine itself....
I like to keep the tank empty as i am working on a less weight/more speed theory..lol
I would expect that a stock car would be able to make 10psi with a peak to 13 without hitting ignition cut....
Best
Jod

[timbo_1975]

Actually the ECM does not calculate boost pressure but i accept the ignition will cut due to knock and Maf sensor inputs....There is no air temp, other than the input temp (maf) on the 850, the 70's are different....
Cheers
Jod

I was refering to ambient air temp sensor. - i am aware the 70's use the sensor mounted in the front bumper, and the 850's the one within the MAF.

And yes, the ECU does derive boost pressure- thats how it knows how much to modulate the BCS according to its look-up tables.

[Jod T5]

And yes, the ECU does derive boost pressure- thats how it knows how much to modulate the BCS according to its look-up tables.

Yes that is correct, it can derive pressure from its sensors, however it can not read direct boost pressure, which i guess you know already....

Cheers
Jod

[timbo_1975]

Indeed, which is why i said "the ecu calculates boost pressure from..." ! :)

[Dangerous Dave]

Just an Update....

Had to move the mbc from its position on the upper engine mount bracket, as the mbc was getting very hot with the heat from the engine, etc (not that it matters, but just in case) and adjusting it was a nightmare as it was burning my fingers. I have a strut brace, so i've relocated it on that above the abs unit (see pic) and its much cooler now.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/04032009075.jpg

[mk3phill]

sounds like a well worth while investment :D,.. dude whats the silver box,.. catch tank??

[Dangerous Dave]

yep, its actually a 'catches bloody everything' tank, as there's so much ££££e that comes out when I empty it, mostly its water and oil mix.

I was an reading EPE magazine from November 2008, and they've got a DIY circuit that you can fit into the line between the ECU and the BCS to variably control boost via a variable resistor mounted on the dash. Basically it intercepts the signal from the ecu to the BCS and delays it a bit.

They also had a fuel cut bypass module to build too, but it works off the input from a MAP sensor, and our cars aren't fitted with those.

[callyuk]

They also had a fuel cut bypass module to build too, but it works off the input from a MAP sensor, and our cars aren't fitted with those.

Probally for the best as that fuel cut is saving you from running too much boost and bending a rod or too

[Dangerous Dave]

Yeah, I thought that too, its there for a reason innit. Best not to mess too much.

[callyuk]

yes indeed :D

[BruceT]

"Hitting the fuel cut"

Love this vid;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btt-VeRgCKA

[p fandango]

"Hitting the fuel cut"
me hitting the proper fuel cut lol (the boost needs lowering when you decide not to run a filter DOH)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce1QoS3XpG4&eurl

[BruceT]

Last I saw you had a huge diameter pipe that pretty much went from the back of the engine to the front, with a grill with some mesh on it to stop small animals going in lol

Ive not hit fuel cut on mine (Yet) but im only running 12-13psi

[p fandango]

Last I saw you had a huge diameter pipe that pretty much went from the back of the engine to the front, with a grill with some mesh on it to stop small animals going in lol
ah i know the one you mean with the grill mesh, that was done while i was making up the new reverse flow pipes. I was talked out of that & found a lovely free-flowing cone anyway. My old drag-racing intake was basically the same but a smaller diameter because i was still using the original MAF-turbo then, just with a straight pipe from grill replacing the airbox


Ive not hit fuel cut on mine (Yet) but im only running 12-13psi
must try harder lol (only joking)

[Dangerous Dave]

Last I saw you had a huge diameter pipe that pretty much went from the back of the engine to the front, with a grill with some mesh on it to stop small animals going in lol


Something like this? Its got the mesh......

http://transamrit.net/files/temp/huge_turbo_01.jpg

With a volvo 5 pot behind it as an afterthought?

[888dee]

Bomb, how are you getting on with the MBC on yours? I've borrowed a boost gauge which I'll be plumbing in in the next day of so just to see what's going on...


oh and another thing, what was involved in fitting the T5 clocks?

[Dangerous Dave]

Getting on okay at the moment, I'm still adjusting it in small amounts to find a happy setting. Seems to be a bit less aggressive than it was at first, dunno whether the ecu has adapted, or I've got a leak somewhere, the boost seems to hold though. Still pulls well, and there so much difference in 4th and 5th on the motorway, it used to just creep through the revs, but now it flys. I'm getting the bits together to give her a service, new plugs, etc, to see if that makes any difference.

I fitted some Bilstein B4 dampers to her today, took no time at all! Can feel the difference (rides flatter without losing the comfort) although the old offside one was leaking, and they were both worn. Also had a look at changing the ARB bushes to polys, but its a sealed unit so I'll have to remove it and do a bit of bodging to fit them.

[Dangerous Dave]

Right, clocks.....

The clocks are essentially the same, but with a boost gauge. The only thing I really needed to fit was a vacuum pipe from the tree on the inlet manifold, which was easy enough, there are spare bulkhead grommets/tubes under the dash, you just need to cut the end off them. To fit them, you only need to take the top of the dash off which is about 11 screws and it just lifts off (piece of cake really)

My old clocks looked like they had a newer circuit board on the back (being 1996/7) and the mileage/trip meter is also attached to the back bits. So I swapped the faces over.

Here's what I did....

Undo the circled screws. Note the hole where the boost gauge tube will be eventually.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/T5%20clocks/DSC03775.jpg


Pull the front off
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/T5%20clocks/DSC03776.jpg


Lever the clock faces at each end and in the middle. It will be a bit stiff so some force is needed.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/T5%20clocks/DSC03778.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/T5%20clocks/DSC03779.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/T5%20clocks/DSC03780.jpg


Here is the clock face off, note the mileage/trip meter and computer are still in the back bit thus avoiding any problems there. Circled is where the boost gauge will be on the T5 faces, and the hole where the pipe fits.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/bomb192uk/T5%20clocks/DSC03783.jpg


All you need to do now is the same to the T5 clocks (don't forget to undo the nut on the boost gauge pipe which holds it onto the clocks) and put the new face onto your old back part, and screw it all back together.

Oh, and one thing to note is that T5 clocks have up to 150MPH on them, and R clocks have 160MPH on them (I think)

[888dee]

top man bomb :)

[callyuk]

some T5 clocks do go to 160 like mine do but its the latter moddel ones

[Dangerous Dave]

some T5 clocks do go to 160 like mine do but its the latter moddel ones

Cheers dude :B_thumb:

[888dee]

strange one, managed to blag a 3 port mbc from a mate :)

I've blocked one side off making it a 2 port, fitted as per bomb's instructions, before fitting, 0.4 bar, after max I can get is 0.2, very confused...

now I have take a very careful run down the road with the pipe to the actuator pipe off and it boosts well and consistently (yes I know this is a dangerous thing to try but I wanted to ensure the wastegate was sealing properly)

going to re-check my work...

[Dangerous Dave]

A 3 port mbc is a bleed valve. It leaks the air out of the wastegate line until the pressure overcomes the leak and activates the wastegate actuator. What you've done by blocking one port up is put a direct line from the turbo output to the wastegate actuator, which means its constantly opening (the actuator works/opens at around 2-3psi), thus not letting the boost get any higher.

What you could do is unblock the port, and use it as a bleed valve. These, from what I can gather from different sources, are the least preferred way to control boost as the air is actually release from the system, whereas a 2 port mbc uses a spring and ball bearing to hold the air pressure back until it reaches the preferred level.

The bleed valve is set up in the same way. It is put in the line between the compressor output chamber and the wastegate actuator. The 3rd port is just left open to the air (or you could plumb it into the port where the blue line fits onto the air intake pipe just after the MAF, as this is what the BCS does anyway) and then adjusted as neccessary (unscrew the adjuster to release more air, thus opening the actuator at a higher boost).

HTH

Bomb

P.s. when I first bought my 850, I took it for a run on the motorway, and when I booted it, the fuel cut kicked in and it scared the crap outta me. When I checked it over I found that the pipe to the wastegate actuator had split! (I think it was like that before I had bought the car). I guess I was lucky as it could have been worse. So running it down the road without the line connected would have been ok

[888dee]

very well explained bomb, I'll need to go buy a 2 port one then, mrmopp had sent me one but the damned royal snail have lost it :(

not I have felt 0.6 bar feels like I can't possibly go back ;)

[Dangerous Dave]

Its great innit!:biggrin:

From what I can gather from the factory gauge, mine is runnin around 10-11 psi.

I'm going to have a day out on the twisties on Monday, into Wales somewhere. Can't wait!

[888dee]

right, I plumbed the bleed valve in as per your instructions bomb into the stock controller and I'm not happy with it, boost rises to just over 0.5 bar but tails off to just under 0.4 bar which does make sense as this was the stock boost before I started, i'll do until I get an MBC,

are there any opinions on this?
ebay linky (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOOST-CONTROLLER-BAR-BOOST-GAUGE-ANY-PETROL-TURBO_W0QQitemZ220379671063)

[Dangerous Dave]

Stock boost is max around 6psi (0.4ish bar).

Have you still got the BCS connected in the line? Either that or the bleed valve is crap.

I got mine from RSpec, though I had just the MBC (which was £30 alone). Transaction was smooth enough, and I bought the wrong one so they sent me another within a day of me sending it back.

[888dee]

not connected, expect this is a rubbish valve....

[Dangerous Dave]

Fair enough bud, let us know when you get it.

I'm gonna go check mine now, the PCV system has been spewing crap into the intake lately, and I'm guessin it all needs a clean inside the intakes and whatever is connected to them.

My old 940 used to do it, until I blocked off the port on the air intake and put the breather to ground LOL

[888dee]

managed to score an mbc off the bay for £15 delivered :)

and no it's not a bleed valve as you would expect at that price, nicely made as well...

anyway, slowly eeking the boost up, just below 0.6 bar which is about 8.5 psi, was going to go a little further, maybe 0.7 bar, thoughts?

[Dangerous Dave]

Mine runs at around 10 (guessin from the factory gauge). But it seems to not want to go any more than that (in 3rd). I dunno if I have a leak or whether i've damaged something, but it doesn't have the kick it had when I first fitted the valve. I'm having a 'Volvo repairing' sesion with my cuz on Friday (he needs his cv boot changing) so I'm gonna strip it all down and have a look (and a clean, intake is full of oil/residue).

You hit the fuel cut yet?