question for bracer

[craig]

hi mate ,ive been looking at your thread on adjusting the waste gate , i like the idea of this but i dont fancy killing my engine so just to be clear do i slacken off the lock nut and screw the rod into the end 4 FULL turns or should i take off the circle clip and screw that up 4 FULL turns onto the rod? and as i dont have a pump are there any sighns i should look for that tell me ive overdone it , and what differance in power should i notice bearing in mind my t5 is standard appart from a holy air box. :drunk: :B_steerin

[Pedro Fandango]

Bracer seems to have disappeared off the face of the planet, but others have messed with the wastegate so sure someone will reply

[Justin]

Basically the purpose of the exersize is to take the normal slack out that has evolved over the years, the wastegate should be at 4.5 psi and no more, unless you want to loose power and cause detonation, depends on mileage but on my last few T5's 2 full turns is enough to get it somewhere close, anymore and all you'll do it have major overboost and detonation. It will pick up quicker and feel faster, but all you are doing is returning it to stock.

Hope that helps ;)

[craig]

thanks justin il give it a go then ( carefully ) as my t5s done 156000 miles now so it could have some slack

[Justin]

stands a good chance, adjust 2 full turns, then run it, if its not quite there you can always go another half and keep going till its about right :)

[Wobbly Dave]

Bracer, God Bless Him, is experiencing some personal issues at the moment and with love and luck will be back with us soon!

[Ross9]

Might I also add that after running your car to see what its like, if you have to do another half turn one way or another remember it will be bloody HOT, wastegate is on the exhaust side of the turbo, and this can get up to and over 800 degrees on boost.

Might I suggest some gardening gloves, lol, which are ace for absorbing the heat and you should be able to get straight in there without letting it cool down, but be careful. leave the heatshield off then all you have to do is pull the pin and turn the rod, minimising what you have to touch, then you can refit the shield once your happy.

If you are doing this then close noting of the boost guage and what it does before hand and after turning the actuator arm is needed, so you can tell if its trying to overboost once you have tightened it, if so you'll need to take it back a half turn.

Ross

[glock19]

My 2 cents, It won't do much good after 2 full turns as the T5s are electronically boosted. ECU would release blow off valve when boost is exceptionally high. To get over this, get the car RICA'd...

[Ross9]

Nah, the ECU cant release the blow off valve, if what you mean by that is the standard recirc dump valve, as it is controlled by pressure in the inlet manifold only.

What it will do is not bleed any pressure off using the standard electronic boost control valve the car is fitted with, thus letting the actuator "see" all the pressure the turbo is creating, as opposed bleeding it off in order to create more boost than the wastegate would normally hold.

So, if you turn the actuator rod in too far, it tightens the wastegate too much, so even if the ECU bleeds 0% of the air off and the actuator see's all the air, it wont open the wastegate and the turbo will continue to accelerate and create boost until there is enough air to push the wastegate open. ie, if the rod was tightened so that it needed 15psi to open it, but the ECU was set to 8 psi, it still wouldnt be able to halt the climb of boost to 15psi, which is overboost, det will occur etc as Justin said.

hence why you want to keep an eye on the boost guage, to make sure you dont go too far.

I dont think he is looking to increase the boost or power on the car with this mod, as Justin as already said all you are doing is returning the car to stock. It will remove the slack in the wastegate built up over the thousands of miles and the turbo will spin up faster again, rather than taking longer to reach max boost due to the wastegate opening partially too early. You could up the boost on the car for £0 by winding it in too far to create the situation I described above, and I know this is an approach used by some people...but I would not advise it at all.

Ross

[craig]

thanks guys some good helpfull info there.so lets get this straight .. say my car is running at the pressure it should be before i touch it ,if i give it a couple of turns will it safely increase boost levels

approx how much extra noticable power can i expect

on the turbo gauge what would be viewed as a safe needle position (at present about 3/4 into white at full boost)

ball park figure -- how much extra bhp is expected from say 2 extra turns past the standard position

and finally all my main boost comes in from 4500 rpm and gets progressively harder (no puns please) would the adjustment increase power at lower revs ?

[Wobbly Dave]

There is no standard position - it all depends on the age/function of the actuator. The Actuator needs to be set up for 4.5 psi - no more no less.

If you are unsure then leave alone IMHO.

[Ross9]

If your getting full boost at 4500rpm, then its too slack.

No, you cannot safely increase the boost byt turning it in so its stronger than 4.5psi, as what you get in each gear will vary due to airflow etc, dont try this, when for £50 odd you can get a good MBC, which is much safer and will do the job on a budget till you can afford a proper ECU reflash from TME, RICA, etc. Non biased bit - "other ecu reflash providers are availale" lol.

Ideally, as Bracer first said in his original post on the matter, a mighty vac would be a good idea, as you can pressurise the actuator line and see when the rod moves.

IMO yours is slack, so I would turn it in, but no-one on here, including me, will take responsibiltiy if you over do it lol, so be careful, or ask a garage/tuner to do it for you, which is probably the safer bet for you, hopefully they will have a device to put pressure on the hose and check it as well. If they dont do many volvos, explain to them its easy to get to the rod before they try and quote you a fortune lol.

Ross

[craig]

well thanks a lot guys i wound it in a few times and my engine has self destructed


lol ,just kiddin
but i have given it 2 turns and allthough the boost gauge doesnt go any higher the power delivery has changed , instead of getting a slight surge at 3000 ish and then slightly subsiding up to 4500 rpm then building hard up to the red line,it now has a slight lag up to 2500rpm and then suddenly hits in hard and steadily builds harder up to the red line.
so does this sound a little more as it should?
by the way , you werent kiddin about the heat of it 800 degres hurts like hell , but it was worth it i cant wipe the smile off my face
lets just hope the engine doesnt pop eh.!!!!!
JUST OUT OF INTREST is there a tell tale sighn to say ive overdone it (preferably before melt down ) but thanks all for your help.

[Ross9]

if the boost guage isnt going any higher then sounds like you've got it right. Same boost, just delivered earlier where it should be.

Which gears were you observing the boost guage in, check it in at least 4th, preferebly 5th, as it's possible to get a bit more boost here due to increased load. If it's still behaving the same even loaded up in 5th gear (yes this will require a fair bit of licence losing speed, so be carefuly if you do it in 5th) then smile, as it's all gone as it should.

Sounds spot on though :)

Ross