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waynegts
Wednesday 17th December 2008, 21:46
hi all, got myself a t5 estate, got a few probs with it tho, flywheel sensor fault for 1
also after a stainless exhaust, dont really want to pay over 250, anyone got one second hand? want a standard looking tail.
it also has a bailey dv but is very quiet?
any ideas to upp the power?
cheers

edit, is 20.5mpg normal for this? 2.3 1995 turbo

Jod T5
Wednesday 17th December 2008, 22:54
hi all, got myself a t5 estate, got a few probs with it tho, flywheel sensor fault for 1
also after a stainless exhaust, dont really want to pay over 250, anyone got one second hand? want a standard looking tail.
it also has a bailey dv but is very quiet?
any ideas to upp the power?
cheers

edit, is 20.5mpg normal for this? 2.3 1995 turbo
Hi Wayne...
By the flywheel i expect you mean the RPM sensor?..This can be checked by resistance between the two sensor terminals, should read between 200 and 500 ohm Dependant on the sensor temperature....
The dump valve should make some noise for sure, check the hose from the valve to the inlet manifold to ensure it is not leaking and also that the spring in the valve is working correctly.....I recently did some work on a car with a dumper that was down on power to find a blanking plate had not replaced the Recirc valve so a constant boost leak was effective...Quality...:(
Up the power?...Remap or MBC....or both lol...Do a search....
Cheers
Jod

dangerstevie
Thursday 18th December 2008, 17:39
Sorry to hijack this post a little, are you saying that with a dump valve and the standard recirc fitted the car will be down on power? if so i am off out now to rip off the stupid baily thing that the last owner put on.

For the exhaust you are going to struggle mate, i made mine from scratch as it was easier than trying to find a second hand stainless or a new one for less that £400.
As said for power Re-map, i have RICA 304 on mine and it goes like hell.

waynegts
Thursday 18th December 2008, 17:58
ok looks like ill be making the exhaust (im a welder),
the engine electric fault light is on and reads flywheel sensor, so gonna swap that,
the car sometimes holds back too and other times it flies????? the sensor?

Volvostorm
Thursday 18th December 2008, 20:08
Sorry to hijack this post a little, are you saying that with a dump valve and the standard recirc fitted the car will be down on power? if so i am off out now to rip off the stupid baily thing that the last owner put on.


Why don't you fit a blanking plate?

Or, don't you want the DV?

dangerstevie
Thursday 18th December 2008, 21:19
I have fitted my blanking plate tonight, and WOW what a difference. Boosts earlier and seems to be a little less aggressive helping a little with the wheel spin problems but seems more drivable too. I hate the bailey but i prefer that to the std recirc, its only on there until i can get a black samco throttle elbow and a universal 2.5" piping kit with black pipes to make my own reverse IC setup and fit my HKS SSQV BOV.

The holding back on your car could be the sensor, have you tried resetting the ECU to see if the fault code returns???
I had all sorts of fault codes on mine, reset it and none of them have come back.

Volvostorm
Thursday 18th December 2008, 21:49
I have fitted my blanking plate tonight, and WOW what a difference. Boosts earlier and seems to be a little less aggressive helping a little with the wheel spin problems but seems more drivable too.

I've got the same set-up on mine, I can't comment about the spool up, as I never drove it with the re-circ on! :P

waynegts
Friday 19th December 2008, 09:33
yup i reset it and it came back after a couple of days,
also takes ages to start sometimes but never fails to start eventually

waynegts
Friday 19th December 2008, 09:34
oh didnt know they had a recirc standard as came with the bailey, ill have a look to make sure the pipes are blanked off

Jod T5
Friday 19th December 2008, 23:15
are you saying that with a dump valve and the standard recirc fitted the car will be down on power?
Yes I am, the inlet manifold compensates the recirc valve by adding additional pressure to the valve by means of a hose...Remove the hose and stick it on your dumper and there is no pressure to the valve..= valve opening = loss of boost
Cheers
Jod

850twr
Saturday 20th December 2008, 01:34
chances are most people running both have left the original pipe on the recirc and plumbed the dv to the vacuum tree, i ran mine like that for 24hrs before i fitted the blanking plate, which definitely made the boost feel more 'solid' and the noise out of the dv was far greater.

waynegts
Saturday 20th December 2008, 16:01
wheres the standard one? cant see it anywhere, or where the pipe should go back to the inlet pipe

850twr
Saturday 20th December 2008, 22:07
the standard recirc is fitted on the side of the turbo (round the back of the engine) and is held on by 3 bolts, the pipe that leads off it goes all the way around to to the front of the engine and goes onto the inlet manifold. If my memory serves me right i think its a black pipe with a yellow strip onit.

dangerstevie
Sunday 21st December 2008, 16:42
Mine was fitted along with the bailey, and both had the vac pipes leading to them, so i dont think it was leaking boost but it deffo feels better.

waynegts
Sunday 21st December 2008, 19:45
ahh was looking at that thinking is that it, all the way back at the turbo, lol.
ok so that will be going.
sorted the flywheel rpm sensor and reset the ecu, no holding back probs now but have a really bad starting problem, takes upto ages to start (2mins) any ideas? can hear the pump priming on ignition.
its turning over but not firing, when started runs mint

Volvostorm
Sunday 21st December 2008, 19:59
but have a really bad starting problem, takes upto ages to start (2mins) any ideas? can hear the pump priming on ignition.
its turning over but not firing, when started runs mint

Is it only bad starting from cold (left overnight?) it could be the injector/s leaking and flooding the cylinder/s

dangerstevie
Sunday 21st December 2008, 21:09
have you checked the spark from cold? a cold engine puts more strain on the ign system causing a weaker spark and can cause starting issues if its not up to scratch. Also if it is your ign system thats at fault then your plugs will be getting soaked in fuel as the ECU runs a very rich cranking mixture from cold, and once the plugs have been soaked in fuel they are pretty much knackered. (Once a short has been found to the electrode, instead of across the gap it tends to stay there, mostly stopping the plug from firing properly.)

waynegts
Monday 22nd December 2008, 08:37
its prob worse when hot, i can switch it off when hot and try straight away and it dont start for ages.
cheers for the help so far peeps

dangerstevie
Monday 22nd December 2008, 09:53
Ok, you need to check the basics to establish what area the problem is in. You want to check for spark, compression and fuel from both hot and cold. Spark is easy, just remove your plugs (undo the HT leads that are not being tested) and earth the plug you are testing on the head (away from the open plug hole.) then get someone to crank the car over and look for the spark. or you can get an inline spark tester, draper do one, fits into HT lead and onto plug and shows the spark in a little glass chamber inline. much easier and probably safer too.
Compression you will need a screw in compression tester for and someone to help too.
Fuel is easy, remove the electrical connector on the coil and crank the car over, then remove each plug and smell it, if there is fuel it should be wet and stink of petrol.

If you have all of these and they are within tolerance then its setup issues. Poss low fuel pressure? possibly the plugs themselves, or as said before the rail losing pressure when the pump is not running.

When was the last time the car was serviced properly?

850twr
Monday 22nd December 2008, 13:59
could be the distributer failing under heat.

dangerstevie
Monday 22nd December 2008, 15:21
Also happening from cold, though. Be best to do a stage 0 tune up

waynegts
Monday 22nd December 2008, 19:14
ok, before i go any further im going to get new plugs n dizzy, funny halfrauds dont stock them for the t5. will have to wait for some then ill report back

dangerstevie
Tuesday 23rd December 2008, 09:46
Its the dizzy cap, rotor arm, clean/replace air filter, plugs (gap at 0.7mm) , check the leads, etc etc

waynegts
Tuesday 23rd December 2008, 16:44
it has a cone filter, also revs between gearchanges? lol sounds like a shed but its all good

waynegts
Wednesday 31st December 2008, 09:34
ok, put new plugs and dizzy on, bloody hell there expensive. no change, i have noticed the idle control valve seems to be acting up, as i said it revs between gearchanges and when i disconnect it it revs fine,(still ticks over just) maybe try changing that or maybe the butterfly is sticking too far open? also dumps out way better with the icv disconnected

850twr
Wednesday 31st December 2008, 13:46
Wayne did you ever check to see if you had a blanking plate fitted in place of your original recirc valve? Once mine was fitted the revving between gear changes stopped.

waynegts
Thursday 1st January 2009, 10:12
nope standard dv is still there.