Trim refurbishment

[mailee]

If your grey trims on your pride and joy are looking a little tired as mine were try this technique to put new life back into them. It takes a bit of time but I am sure you will agree it is worth the effort.

[mailee]

The materials
Unifine Polyester stopper for filling the gouges. Standox Primer filler for the base on repairs. Bodyline bumper repair paint for the final colour.

[mailee]

Standox primer is the best I have used.

[mailee]

This is available at our company I should think it is available at most paint factors too.

[mailee]

Start by masking the surrounding area and thoroughly cleaning the trim. Trim any excess plastic from gouges with a sharp knife in a ‘V’ shape.

[mailee]

Then abrade the complete trim to key the surface, Grey scotchbright pads are good for this. Clean the trim with a degreaser/thinners.

[mailee]

Using a good polyester stopper paste mix a small amount and apply to the gouges, scratches or small dents. Ensure only a small amount is used, remember you have to rub this down.

[mailee]

Once the filler is dry use around 320 grit paper and rub down until the repair is almost transparent as in the pic. Remember to rub at the filler in different directions to avoid putting ‘Tramlines’ in it. Go lightly with the rubbing as pressing on will only distort the plastic and ruin the repair. I used my fingers only for the small chips but use a small block for the larger repairs to avoid following the contours of the gouge.

[mailee]

Ensure the filler is well feathered into the surrounding plastic and looks almost transparent like the pic.

[mailee]

Feel the repair with your fingers, as these are far more sensitive than look alone. Once you are satisfied with the repair it is time to clean the area and prime. Cleanliness is next to Godliness, so keep the area clean and grease free to ensure proper adhesion of the primer and paint. Spray the first coat of primer lightly to provide a tack coat. Avoid heavy applications as the repair may bleed or react.

[mailee]

Each successive coat can then be applied more heavily over the repairs. Too heavy a coat and the repair will shine through and at worst react along the edge of the repair so be warned. About three heavy coats should suffice and give a good build to the repair. Allow around 20 mins to dry so go have a cuppa.

[mailee]

Use some 500grit paper and sand the area around the repair again making sure you attack it from all directions. Lightly does it as the primer sands easily. Go over all the surrounding trim too as there will be overspray there. Wipe the repair area with degreaser and look at it in the light to see if anything is obvious. At this stage if there are any minor imperfections in the finish you should mix some more stopper and fix it now as it will be too late after this stage.

[mailee]

Once you are satisfied with the repairs clean the trim completely again and make sure it is dry. It is a good idea to blow the area down if you have access to an airline just to be sure. Dust and dirt will lurk in any recesses and present themselves just as you start to paint, I can guarantee it.

[mailee]

Spray thin coats over the repairs and build up the depth for the first couple of coats. Spray the full trim with the successive coats and wait for the paint to flash before applying further coats. It suggests that three coats are enough on the can but I would put plenty on and build up the depth of colour gradually. Don’t be tempted to apply too thick a coat as it will take a long time to dry and fill the grain of the trim and you don’t want that. Patients is the order of the day as there is no rush and you do want to make a good job of it.

[mailee]

At this stage you can see the colour has increased in depth and attained the right shade. You will also notice that the mottled effect is there too. Allow it to dry for around 20 mins.

[mailee]

Once dry unmask it and take a good look.

[mailee]

Now pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

[mailee]

It may have taken a few hours to complete but it has saved you a fortune and got rid of those ugly gouges and white powdery marks from past polishings.

[mailee]

I didn't stop with the bumpers though and went on to refurb the handles and roofrails.

[mailee]

These I removed from the car to refurbish avoiding all the masking.

[mailee]

All in all not a bad afternoons work really. I still have the tailgate handle to do but that can wait until next weekend. Now all it needs is a good power polishing which it is booked in for next week. Then I can see where it needs a coat of paint. It has certainly tidied the old girl up. I also have the advantage of being able to say I did it my way. :wink:

[mailee]

This is the rear bumper which was refurbished last week. Needs a wash. You can see by the paint under the trim that it has been well scuffed in the past. At least the trims look the part now.

[mailee]

Here are the roof rails completed finally. ready for a good wash tomorrow.

[splatt]

A nice job...BTW..nice wallpaper :worried:
Certainlty makes the difference to the trims though...well done!

[mailee]

Thanks for that splatt. I didn't have any newpaper or masking paper so I improvised as you can see. Still it worked. :)

[JUDGENINJA]

Is there a limit on depth the filler is supposed to be used I've got quite a deep dent in my front bumper that I've had since I owned it. I thought of buying a new one, but looking at your repair this maybe a better option....

[mailee]

Hi Judgeninja. Yes there is a depth of about 1/8" for filler. If there is a deep dent I would suggest a hot air gun and pushing the dent from the rear. this is how we repair plastic bumper covers at work. Of course you have to be careful not to get it too hot and scorch the plastic. Once it is within 1/8" you can then go ahead and fill with the filler. Hope this helps.