boost level

[stainesy]

on a standered T-5R how far into the white in the standered boost gauge should the needle go?
mine only seems to go about a quater of the way in.

[Rob_ioClean]

Have you done a stage Zero on it yet?

[Rob_ioClean]

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=217

[stainesy]

Have you done a stage Zero on it yet?

i have put new leads and plugs on it.also new autobox oil and coolant. havnt put new dizzy on tho.
when my turbo kicks in i get a hissss sound from the engine but think thats just the sound of the turbo aint it. the car is fast and flys when turbo kicks in. do you think i may have a tiny boost leak somewhere?
have just bought a boost gauge and pod that should turn up by weekend so can check the psi then. but how far into the white should the needle sit and stay at when floored?

[Rob_ioClean]

The standard gauge isn't that good tbh, I'd check all the hoses for leaks first.

Car needs to be A1 before increase the boost, maybe also be worth looking at a gearbox oil cooler as its an auto.

[stainesy]

The standard gauge isn't that good tbh, I'd check all the hoses for leaks first.

Car needs to be A1 before increase the boost, maybe also be worth looking at a gearbox oil cooler as its an auto.

mine has an oil cooler on the radiator. and my radiator is brand new.

also i dont have a clue what im looking at when it comes to all the pipes under the bonnet. i no the boost pipes on mine are all ok as i changed them to samco but i havent got a clue about all the vacume hosses everywhere.

[Rob_ioClean]

That will just be for the engine oil.

[Rob_ioClean]

Linky here http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11429&highlight=cooler

[stainesy]

That will just be for the engine oil.
no when i change my gearbox oil i unplug the pipes coming out of my radiator and do it from there. my radiator has 2 oil coolers in it. one for engine and one for gearbox. i nio that as i had to get a new radiator a few months ago and had to get one with 2 oil coolers in it. dont no if mine has it just coz mine is the R

[Rob_ioClean]

Hmmmmm, no seen that......fair enough.

If you can find any leaks, maybe worth taking it to a garage for a once over.

Russ at RT is good if you can get down to him!

[stainesy]

so what sound does yours make when turbo kicks in?
mine is like ssssssssssssssssssssss then tttttssssssss when dump valve opens

[Rob_ioClean]

Well on my old 850 yes it did, but the ssssss noise shoudn't be too loud.

Boost should be 2'3rd's in the white for stock, mine had rica and just went of the scale. about 1.2-1.4 bar in the end :)!

[irf]

you most likely have a boost leak. standard T5 boost is 9.6psi with the R at 10.6 psi iirc.

change any and all vacuum pipes. main ones are the three pipes from the BCS to the turbo and induction. then the one under the inlet manifold, i think from the fuel pressure regulator and then there's one connected to the inlet manifold on the extreme left of it.

O ring on the vacuum tree should be changed, a new volvo one leaked on mine so a 12 year old one cant be brilliant!

then on the vacuum tree itself, clamp all the little pipes with 6-9mm little jubilee clips.

all the above wont guarantee boost leak feedom but its a good start.

[stainesy]

Well on my old 850 yes it did, but the ssssss noise shoudn't be too loud.

Boost should be 2'3rd's in the white for stock, mine had rica and just went of the scale. about 1.2-1.4 bar in the end :)!

LOL nice. yeah when i floor it the boost goes up to half way for a second then levels off at about 1/4 of the way into the white. the ssssssssss isnt to loud and the dump is very loud so that may say that it is holding boost.

[Rob_ioClean]

If its at a 1/4 the i'd say you have a leak somewhere :(

[stainesy]

just had a good look all round my engine at pipes and found this. found alot of pipes with T bits on and blanked off ends to the T bits. have no idea what these pipes are and where they go but maybe you lot do.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0075.jpg
this is the other end of the pipe with the huge bolt in it
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0077.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0078.jpg

where could i go to have all the small pipes put right and replaced with good ones and how much will it ruffly cost?

[Rob_ioClean]

i'd say thats where your leaks are :)

tbh its been about 18 months since I've had a T5 I can remember where all the pipes connect! looks like someone might have had a mbc on it!

[stainesy]

i'd say thats where your leaks are :)

tbh its been about 18 months since I've had a T5 I can remember where all the pipes connect! looks like someone might have had a mbc on it!

oh right so thats where the mbc goes. im going to see if i can find a place to take it to get all the pipes replaced and put back the way they are ment to be. then i will add my stuff.

[Rob_ioClean]

Where do you live?

[stainesy]

Where do you live?

i live in dunstable mate. bedfordshire

[Rob_ioClean]

If you dont mind a drive, try RT Mechanics!

http://www.rtmechanics.co.uk/volvoservices.htm

Cant rate them enough!!!

[stainesy]

ok great cheers i have just emailed them

[Tim Williams]

When they are done make sure that decent pipe is used and not crappy silicone with cable ties on as they will not hold. Petrol pipe is best with proper petrol pipe clips.

[Rob_ioClean]

Russ from RT is a member on this site, I'm sure he will spot this thread!

[cameron]

[QUOTE=stainesy;183235]just had a good look all round my engine.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0075.jpg
this is the other end of the pipe with the huge bolt in it
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0077.jpg [QUOTE]

WHO THE HELLS BEEN MESSING WITH THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What a balls up that is, wheres the sensor gone from the bottom of the air box? Where have all the pipes come from?

Thats deffo where the leak is, it all needs to be returned to stock!

Stainesy you need to track down the Knob that done that and attack him with a rusty blade thats sacrilage! LOL

Best of luck Matey!!!!.

Lee

[stainesy]

i no its a mess and i aint got a clue how it is ment to be as this is my first volvo.
think im gona buy aloud of good vacume hose and trace where all the pipes go then replace each one geting rid of the t bits that have been blanked off. what size vacume hose should i buy to replace them all?

[cameron]

Dont quote me on this but i think the hose should be 4mm internal diameter. Thats what i bought when installing my DV and it gives a nice tight fit, jubilees just back it up.

I'll see if i can sort out a piccy for you to show how it should be, its not difficult, i know where everything goes but it would be hard to explain to someone.

[irf]

this may help with the connections from your bcs to turbo

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v304/irf200/volvo%20related/mbcinstallation.jpg

the blue pipe goes to the trunking just after the MAF.

[cameron]

Spot on irf, thats the one i was looking for!

Its really easy to change it back to standard. you just have to re route the DV to the " Christmas tree ".

[stainesy]

what is the thing at the bottom that all coloured ppes come out of and where is it in the engine bay?
also what are all the other ends atached to?
on the red pipe one end is on the recurc but where is the other end? is it the manifold where my dv has one from now?
where does the other end of the blue one go? is that the airbox?

[irf]

the blue pipe goes to the trunking just after the MAF.

red one i think goes to the front of the inlet manifold.

that thing that everything is connected to is the BCS( boost control solenoid).

[Alan M]

Don't use samco vacuum hosing its not very thick walled and it compress's under vacuum and expands under boost. Buy good thick walled quality hose. Try Matt Lewis racing as he sells good quality products.

[irf]

and change all the pipes going to the vacuum tree, arguably just as important. just follow where the pipes go from the tree and replace.

the vacuum tree is covered by a plastic cover. below is a pic of it without the cover and the tree is pointed out with a yellow arrow.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v304/irf200/volvo%20related/vacuumtree.jpg

[Wombatbomb]

Don't use samco vacuum hosing its not very thick walled and it compress's under vacuum and expands under boost. Buy good thick walled quality hose. Try Matt Lewis racing as he sells good quality products.

Simpler, cheaper and, IMHO, better option is to use fuel hose.

[stevenb]

just a guess but them blanked off hoses could be where whoever put the dump valve on didn't put a blanking plate on turbo so cut and blocked off recirc valve pipe. Please let me know if im wrong

[stainesy]

just a guess but them blanked off hoses could be where whoever put the dump valve on didn't put a blanking plate on turbo so cut and blocked off recirc valve pipe. Please let me know if im wrong

no i have taken off the recirc and put a blanking plate there. i have a new hose coming from the manifold to a bailey dv

[stevenb]

oh well its never the easy fix option so all i can say is good luck but one last thing. My t5 used to go to only about a quarter on standard gauge and it had no leaks but fitted mbc and a savage boost gauge set it to 10 psi (was at 12psi but backed it off for safety sake) improved performance no end but my standard gauge still doesn't go much higher than it did so maybe its just your gauge?

[cameron]

The hose from the DV that goes to the manifold is wrong! it shouldgo to one of the unused outlets on the tree! what you have to ask youself is what has been removed from there to fit the DV onto it, there should be a hose from the recirc valve that goes to the top outlet on the manifold.

[stevenb]

I forgot to mention in your previous thread you asked what that thing with coloured pipes was its your boost control solenoid and if you fitting an mbc unplug the green pipe from it and put that to mbc inlet then take the yellow pipe off it and put that on mbc outlet leave the centre pipe alone and leave the multiplug plugged into the back of bcs. 2 minutes and mbc is fitted just set it up and off you go

[stainesy]

The hose from the DV that goes to the manifold is wrong! it shouldgo to one of the unused outlets on the tree! what you have to ask youself is what has been removed from there to fit the DV onto it, there should be a hose from the recirc valve that goes to the top outlet on the manifold.

what????
i have no recirc it has been removed and blanked off.

the pipe that used to go to my recirc now goes to my dv. thats right aint it? works fine

[cameron]

Ah didnt realise it had been removed matey.

Should be ok then, how you getting on with all the other hoses?

[96T5Andy]

Don't use samco vacuum hosing its not very thick walled and it compress's under vacuum and expands under boost. Buy good thick walled quality hose. Try Matt Lewis racing as he sells good quality products.

Alan,
Would this be similar to the stuff you got from Matt Lewis racing?
I plan on changing some of the hoses, but this stuff is 3.5mm Internal Diam
Was the stuff you got 4mm? And how many meters did you get?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160277219492&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=006

Thanks

Andy

[stainesy]

Ah didnt realise it had been removed matey.

Should be ok then, how you getting on with all the other hoses?

just hadf a good look at my hoses and that diagram was a huge help. looks so easy now. i no exactly what to do. just gota find a place to get some 4mm hoses from. oh and the only other thing im worried about is how do i get to the hose that ataches to the turbo? looks tight down there.
so its safe to T the hose under my dash that goes to my standered boost gauge for my new boost gauge?

[cameron]

I removed the air box it gave a bit more leverage space!

Apart from that matey its just trial and error!

[stainesy]

oh yeah im not worried about changing the hoses. realy want coloued hoses but they are not good for the job aparently. have found some good braided boost hose but its 3.5mm is that fine to use or does it have to be 4mm?

[matt_t5]

stainesy, ive had quite a few turbo cars, inc a 300bhp 200sx which was running normal vacuum tubing from Roose Motorsport and it did the job perfectly fine. never had any problems with it. £3 a metre i think it is.

p.s it doesnt really matter what size you use. but i wouldnt go above 4mm otherwise you may have sealing issues.

[Alan M]

Alan,
Would this be similar to the stuff you got from Matt Lewis racing?
I plan on changing some of the hoses, but this stuff is 3.5mm Internal Diam
Was the stuff you got 4mm? And how many meters did you get?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160277219492&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=006

Thanks

Andy

I am using black silicone tubing the thick high temp stuff from Matt Lewis Racing. Its been great so far and none of my hoses have come off, but I only use my car on the road and don't really thrash it plus my boost figures aren't as high as some.

[stainesy]

ok peeps i have just tried installing my new boost gauge i have T,d it to the standered boost gauge hose under the dash. i havnt wired it in yet as i dont have a clue about wires. what wires do i atach them to. does my gauge need to be wired to work? as there is no movement on the gauge as it is just piped to vacume

[Alan M]

Depends what sort of guage you have bought. I took the power supply from the switched live off my stereo as that way it came on when the car was started.

[stainesy]

Depends what sort of guage you have bought. I took the power supply from the switched live off my stereo as that way it came on when the car was started.

yeah thats what im going to do on mine. on the sterio wires whats what? anybody got a wiring diagram for the wires on the back of the sterio so i no whats live and whats ground?

[Alan M]

Use a multi meter thats what I did.

[stainesy]

aint got one.

[matt_t5]

id connect the main power lead to the red from the wiring harness, the black wire to the black wire and the yellow wire would be what id connect the ignition to :)

[stainesy]

there is no yellow wire. the gauge came with instructions to fit oil pressure gauge, shift light, water temp, and volt meter. everything apart from boost gauge. it cames with this diagram that aparently aplies to all gauges
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0060.jpg

and this is the back of my gauge

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0061.jpg

[Alan M]

It looks like there is only the two wires to use, switched live and ground.

[matt_t5]

switched live to the yellow stereo wire and obviously the ground one to the black one. job done :)

[stainesy]

so i take it i need to buy some ring conectors as the pos and neg wires have to atach under the nuts. and the top wires coming out of the gauge go to the headlight circuit. but i may put them in the same circuit as the gauge and put a switch in so i can turn backlight on and off when i like. or just leave the backlight and just wire up the gauge. not to fust about it being backlit.

just a thought as the fitting braket is metal wont the electric pass across it to the nut on the left to?

[Alan M]

so i take it i need to buy some ring conectors as the pos and neg wires have to atach under the nuts. and the top wires coming out of the gauge go to the headlight circuit. but i may put them in the same circuit as the gauge and put a switch in so i can turn backlight on and off when i like. or just leave the backlight and just wire up the gauge. not to fust about it being backlit.

just a thought as the fitting braket is metal wont the electric pass across it to the nut on the left to?

Don't put power to the nuts on the back of your gauge. You will do some damage to your car wiring and probably the gauge too. They are just fixing/retaining bolts to secure the bracket inside a gauge pod nothing more. At the end of the wires the red and black one you simply find somewhere to take the supply from to supply those wires. I'd say get someone else to do it as you may cause some damage should you make a mistake.

[stainesy]

but acording to the diagram those wires are only for the backlight. i plugged the gauge into the vacuum hose and gave my engine a good rev and the gauge didnt even move or twitch so im gessing it needs power for the gauge to work. and as the 2 wires at the top are for the lighting then where els do i put the wires? dont that diagram show to put the wires to the nuts?

[stainesy]

ok i have just been out to my car and put them wires on the battery and all i got was some funky coloured backlights i even blow realy hard down the pipe and no movement at all. so im gessing that it has a power suplie as shown in the diagram using the nuts.

[Alan M]

No, that diagram looks to be the wrong one. Are there any instructions overleaf the page you have posted. Those nuts are definately for fixing as mine is the same layout but with an extra wire for permanent live whereas you only have a wire for switched live. If you think that the nuts are the place to take the supply who am I to discourage you, you only learn from your own mistakes as I have come to learn. Good luck on finding the right wiring method.

[stainesy]

well should i be able to make the needle move even a tiny bit by blowing hard into the vacuum bit?

[stainesy]

No, that diagram looks to be the wrong one. Are there any instructions overleaf the page you have posted. Those nuts are definately for fixing as mine is the same layout but with an extra wire for permanent live whereas you only have a wire for switched live. If you think that the nuts are the place to take the supply who am I to discourage you, you only learn from your own mistakes as I have come to learn. Good luck on finding the right wiring method.

nope the only instructions i got was for all gauges (temp, oil, shift, volt) and the diagram is for all. so does that mean i do as diagram says? and where its shows ignition and ground on diagram is that the nuts on the gauge?
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0060.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-0061.jpg

why cant people just make things easy?

[matt_t5]

right put it this way, the nuts and bolts are there to secure the gauge. THEY ARE NOT ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE ELECTRICAL SIDE OF THINGS

[Wombatbomb]

Looking at that, disregard the diagram.

The bulb is a seperate item with 2 wires coming of it. One of those goes to a switchable live (for example the stereo) the other goes to an earth.

The other connections that diagram is talking about are for if the gauge is a oil, temp gauge etc. To put it simply...THIS IS A MECHANICAL BLOODY GAUGE AND ONLY POWER IT NEEDS IS FOR THE BULB.

And no, you probably won't be able to make the gauge move by blowing down the pipe.

[stainesy]

right put it this way, the nuts and bolts are there to secure the gauge. THEY ARE NOT ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE ELECTRICAL SIDE OF THINGS

ok so what amont of presure does it need to move the needle? as the top wires are anly there for the backlight and when i wired it up using the top wires nothing happened when i reved the engine into boost. there was no movement at all on the gauge. i have never had a boost gauge before so i dont no will it only work when driving or should it still work at the psi i can make by revving into boost?

[Wombatbomb]

You have to drive it to make the turbo spin.

[stainesy]

You have to drive it to make the turbo spin.

so how cum i can get the standered boost gauge in the white and make my dump valve go off from revving?

[matt_t5]

it will read vacuum pressure on idle around -20 i believe. when it comes onto boost it will go over the 0 mark and into the +psi.

[irf]

stainesy, all of what you need to know is written already. the nuts are there for fitment. the wires are there for the backlighting. you don't get positive boost pressure without load so cant do it standing still.fit the thing and take it for a drive!

[stainesy]

it will read vacuum pressure on idle around -20 i believe. when it comes onto boost it will go over the 0 mark and into the +psi.

exactly thats what im trying to say. its not moving at all. and i am using the pipe from my standered gauge and that moves so im tryingv to figure out why the new gauge dont move. and if the 2 top wires are just for back light that means the brand new gauge dont work or it has to have a power suplie to work. if so where does the power suplie go. thats what im saying

[Wombatbomb]

I give up. Good luck whoever else tries to help, because he ain't listening.

[stainesy]

I give up. Good luck whoever else tries to help, because he ain't listening.

i am listening but it dont make sence. so what your saying is that the gauge when set up and engine running should not move at all. not even when revved into boost not even a twich of the needle? but it will work when driving?

i here what you guys are saying dont get me rong but that doesnt make any sence.

[irf]

LOL@wombat.

stainesy, two things. have you got a pic of the face of your boost gauge? and two, when you fitted it, did you drive it and get the car onto boost? if not, do it!!

[stainesy]

LOL@wombat.

stainesy, two things. have you got a pic of the face of your boost gauge? and two, when you fitted it, did you drive it and get the car onto boost? if not, do it!!

no i didnt take it for a drive but i revved the ars off it and got it well onto boost and had dump valve firing away so i would of thought that would have got at least a twich out of it.

this is the gauge
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/stainesy1978/Photo-005.jpg

[irf]

can't add anything else to this thread, it's all been written. it is odd that your not getting any vacuum reading at idle though, could be the pipes blocked somewhere.

[stainesy]

can't add anything else to this thread, it's all been written. it is odd that your not getting any vacuum reading at idle though, could be the pipes blocked somewhere.

i giv up to as my head hurts from trying to work it out. cant be a blocked pipe tho as im using the same pipe as the standered gauge and that works fine

[irf]

sorry, not blocked, should have said kinked pipe.

silly thing is that you already had it fitted. all it would have taken is a drive round the block to confirm wether it's working or not.

you will NOT get positive boost in neutral. i used to be able to get my dump valve to work in neutral as well. there's obviously a reason but i personally don't know it. doesn't change the fact that you wont get positive boost in neutral though.

[stephenevans99]

I'd personally buy a decent gauge, it's most likely your 'Type R' gauge is knackerosso!!

[stainesy]

I'd personally buy a decent gauge, it's most likely your 'Type R' gauge is knackerosso!!

yeah it looks that way well im about to email the bloke on ebay and get my money back.

[stephenevans99]

It's not worth pulling your hair out matey....I bet my dogs teeth that the gauge is faulty and another one will work fine. If your not 100% sure how to wire it up, take it to a garage a let them do it....otherwise make sure you got a fire extinguisher !!!!

[irf]

with all due respect you dont actually know wether the gauge is faulty cos you haven't even tested it!!

[stephenevans99]

This Smiths gauge is the same as I had fitted in my T5....just makes sure it's the correct diameter ie. 52mm.

Smiths gauge Ebay Link (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/52mm-Smiths-Boost-gauge_W0QQitemZ330272004980QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m330272004980&_trkparms=72%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C24 0%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

[stainesy]

its obvios realy how to wire it up and i no i did it right i was just asking as when i didnt work i thought i must have done it rong. but thinking about it i did everything right and it should have atleast twiched a little so its obvious it dont work. sod it im going to amber performance friday and gona buy one. im going to put this one on my car tomorow and drive it just to make sure but im already sure it aint woring now after speaking to you lot.

[stainesy]

This Smiths gauge is the same as I had fitted in my T5....just makes sure it's the correct diameter ie. 52mm.

Smiths gauge Ebay Link (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/52mm-Smiths-Boost-gauge_W0QQitemZ330272004980QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m330272004980&_trkparms=72%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C24 0%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

dam it thats a good deal and im concidering it but i realy wanted one in psi as i no where i am with that. havnt got a clue about bar

[stephenevans99]

with all due respect you dont actually know wether the gauge is faulty cos you haven't even tested it!!

True. But I'm presuming the gauge is faulty as Stainesy says he's using the same vacuum pipe that connects to the dash gauge. The dash gauge works fine but the new gauge doesn't even twitch.

[matt_t5]

i still like TIM gauges, i think they are value for money. plain and boring but have always worked when ive had them. failing that autogauge ones have worked for me to, but i know there's mixed feelings surrounding them