Spark plugs......its coming up to winter , which ones.....

[Babybadger]

I am thinking of changing the spark plugs on the old girl and it is a bit lumpy at tickover...... any ideas? As it is coming up to winter, should I consider a different heat range? Will it affect the RICA mapping? This is what www.spark-plug.co.uk recommends......


http://mysite.orange.co.uk/volvo-t5/images/6-picture.jpg

I think I will use copper ones as they are cheap as chips and I will change them again in the spring at £2 each at my local motor factors. But what is the right heat range to get '7' or '6 (cooler)'? I notice that they also recommend Champion '6' heat range. Can anyone tell me when you would use these and why?

[volvotuning]

I am thinking of changing the spark plugs on the old girl and it is a bit lumpy at tickover...... any ideas? As it is coming up to winter, should I consider a different heat range? Will it affect the RICA mapping? This is what www.spark-plug.co.uk recommends......


http://mysite.orange.co.uk/volvo-t5/images/6-picture.jpg

I think I will use copper ones as they are cheap as chips and I will change them again in the spring at £2 each at my local motor factors. But what is the right heat range to get '7' or '6 (cooler)'? I notice that they also recommend Champion '6' heat range. Can anyone tell me when you would use these and why?

You should contact the spark plug manufacturers, because some may have an increasing heat range scale and some may have a decreasing heat range scale. This means that going from a 6 to a 7 with one manufacturer means going to a colder plug, whereas going from a 6 to a 7 with another manufacturer might mean going to a hotter plug.

Check with the manufacturer!

Also bear in mind that the lumpy idle may not be cause by the plugs.

Adam.

[dreadly]

Heat ranges. Something that is often overlooked in spark plugs is their heat rating or heat range. The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the tip of the spark plug when its working. The hot and cold classifications often cause confusion because a 'hot' spark plug is normally used in a 'cold' (low horsepower) engine and vice versa. The term actually refers to the thermal characteristics of the plug itself, specifically its ability to dissipate heat into the cooling system. A cold plug can get rid of heat very quickly and should be used in engines that run hot and lean. A hot plug takes longer to cool down and should be used in lower compression engines where heat needs to be retained to prevent combustion byproduct buildup.

Taken from :- http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible.html

[Babybadger]

You should contact the spark plug manufacturers, because some may have an increasing heat range scale and some may have a decreasing heat range scale. This means that going from a 6 to a 7 with one manufacturer means going to a colder plug, whereas going from a 6 to a 7 with another manufacturer might mean going to a hotter plug.

Check with the manufacturer!

Also bear in mind that the lumpy idle may not be cause by the plugs.

Adam.

What would you suggest is the issue with the lumpy idle? It has had the revs dip just while starting up and engaging drive, to the point of nearly stalling, only once. Not all the time..... I also noticed the alternator light blinked under very hard acceleration the other day, only did it once.....

Thanks Adam.

I think changing the spark plugs and lloking at the leads will be first stop, as it's cheap enough. I don't want to spend £80 odd on Magnecor leads if the difference is minimal.........Standard leads will be sufficient for me if they will do a good job.

[Babybadger]

Anyone know what socket I will need for it, and do I need a long reach spanner?

[dreadly]

Anyone know what socket I will need for it, and do I need a long reach spanner?

I personally go for the cooler plugs NGK-Platinum-6, they will help the engine dissipate the massive heat produced under high boost.
You need a standard long reach 14mm spark plug spanner (or is it 16?) still, you can buy a cool double ended one that I found to do the job perfectly.
It's just a long bar with 14mm on one end and 16mm on the other.
there are only three sizes of spark plugs - 14mm 16mm and 10mm - not many use 10mm

[volvotuning]

I personally go for the cooler plugs NGK-Platinum-6, they will help the engine dissipate the massive heat produced under high boost.
You need a standard long reach 14mm spark plug spanner (or is it 16?) still, you can buy a cool double ended one that I found to do the job perfectly.
It's just a long bar with 14mm on one end and 16mm on the other.
there are only three sizes of spark plugs - 14mm 16mm and 10mm - not many use 10mm

NGK-6 is a hotter plug than an NGK-7.

Adam.

[Babybadger]

I personally go for the cooler plugs NGK-Platinum-6, they will help the engine dissipate the massive heat produced under high boost.
You need a standard long reach 14mm spark plug spanner (or is it 16?) still, you can buy a cool double ended one that I found to do the job perfectly.
It's just a long bar with 14mm on one end and 16mm on the other.
there are only three sizes of spark plugs - 14mm 16mm and 10mm - not many use 10mm

How do you torque 'em up to 25nm?

[Babybadger]

NGK-6 is a hotter plug than an NGK-7.

Adam.

So I would deduce I need a NGK-8?

Also there is a different part for the T5R to the T5 with different plug gaps, surely they are the same engine? Especially when chipped?

[dreadly]

How do you torque 'em up to 25nm?

Halfway between hand-tight and Gnnnnnjh :)

[dreadly]

NGK-6 is a hotter plug than an NGK-7.

Adam.

Doh! - thanks Adam, my mistake, I meant '7' :confused:

[Babybadger]

Halfway between hand-tight and Gnnnnnjh :)

My mate says torque wrenches are for show, unless you are doing a head gasket! Then he proceeded to get a flashy looking Bosch OBD diagnostic tablet out for an old vectra.....

[Babybadger]

Splitfires are available at http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/framefix.asp?ProductCode=SF-TP392D&PID=248457 plug gap is 28 thou , dunno in mm