My new obsession:Increasing cold air into induction!!!

[Montana]

Hi Folks,

I've just installed a pipercross induction kit into my 850R Estate and now i don't use my stereo as much as I used to. I love the whooshing sound it makes when I release my foot from the throttle.

I'd thought I'd reinforce this so I wake up early this morningto get a custom made stainless steel Powerflow exhaust system fitted. And of course had a respectible oval polished tail pipe to end it off. At Idle I notice a modest increase growl and burble but nothing outrageously "Chav". When I slam the throttle the aggressive sound of the system kicks in and she seems to pull away a lot faster. I love it, however I'm not looking forward to telling the insurance company, so I'm pondering: Should I tell them? Should'nt I tell them? Hmmmmmm I'll sleep on it!

Tommorrow, I intend to install a powerflex poly bush. Should not take too long (famous last words!!), but found all info I need on this forum. Excellent!!

Just wanted to throw this into the public arena: I'm obsessing over how I can get as much cold air into & around my induction system. Now I'm looking to feed air from the standard airflow (the plastic black duct in front of the radiator next to the o/s horn) directed into a heat sheild enclosing the induction kit.

I've seen a eurosport heat sheild on a members car here, checked out the web but could not find one. Does anyone know how I can get my hands on a heatshield for a 850R? As it currently seems I'll need to get one custom made (which will invariably involve asking a mate of a mate, of a mate to sort one out).

Also, I'm toying with the idea of getting a bonnet duct cut into my hood and directing further cold air from the duct to the induction system. Now I'm not talking about a garishly "chavy" duct, just something understated akin to a Subaru duct, sufficient enough to channel more air into and around induction area hence, position the bonnet duct so it sits above the induction/proposed heat sheild enclosure. Before I jump into this mod I'm doing a little cost benefit analysis. Does anyone think this would be a worthy route to take? If so where's the best place to find a range of bonnet ducts? and whom will be able to install it? Just need to get it costed.

I'd appreciate any of your thoughts/comments

[abdul]

any pictures

[Ren]

Customise the cold air feed from the original radiator connector and add a feed from the bumper brake dust vent. All the free air you need! Works great. I know a few have tried it and it works fantastic for me.

[Baj]

On a related note I have a K&N. I have seen some people build a cylinder around it and feed from the bumper as described.
Will this adversely affect the nice noise?

[Rnash2002]

See here for cold airbox http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/t13477-polished-intercooler-pipecold-airbox.html

[arbee]

BSR do a induction 'kit' with a shield - looks really good - S70T5chris has one, tho not sure if you can buy the shield separately :(

[S70T5Chris]

I tried for ages to get an induction kit with a heat shield. The BSR kit was the only one I found. And as arbee says I don't think you can just buy the heat shield on its own. But you could try emailing RT mechanics and asking them.

[T5SLAVE]

Hi m8y,

Im part way thru playin with a cold air induction kit thingy!!! I'll stick some piccies up of it when Im happy n it's all workin nicley. Its basically just a big 'ole cone filter housed inside an enclosed (when the bonnet is shut) stainless box, with a feed from the lower bumper and soon 2 have a scoop on the bonnet 2 feed cold air from there too. Just a trial n error thing really dude...sounds gr8 when bussin along now tho and Im sure it goes better because of it:biggrin: ?!?!?

Best o luck with ur playin/modin:Handshake

Mark.

[Montana]

Abdul you requested pictures. Here are the two mod's I've had done so far:

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k119/nealjhalla/Volvo%20Upgrade%20Pics/InductionKit.jpg

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k119/nealjhalla/Volvo%20Upgrade%20Pics/PowerflowExhuast.jpg

[nez]

Exhaust looks good, how much you pay, if you don't mind me asking.

[Montana]

Exhaust looks good, how much you pay, if you don't mind me asking.

I don't mind, I paid £320.00 (all in) from TopGear (Hayes), specialist in custom made exhaust systems.

[M a r c]

There is a better inductionkit available than the BSR one...

http://www.europeantuning.com/ET-HPI800.jpg

This kit has a stainless steel heatshield and a bigger K&N cone.

[Montana]

Marc,

That looks good! do you have more info?

Cheers!

[M a r c]

Marc,

That looks good! do you have more info?

Cheers!

Got it on my car, the big original K&N cone is a lot bigger than the JR-filter supplied by BSR and capable up to 400hp. The heatshield is stainless steel, so it won't rust like the BSR ones does. Performancewise it does a good job; throttleresponse is a lot better.

[M a r c]

175 euro at www.europeantuning.com

[SaffronC70]

Check out my website.

I've buggered about with all sorts of air feeds, but the BMC CDA seems the best so far.

Chris

[M a r c]

Check out my website.

I've buggered about with all sorts of air feeds, but the BMC CDA seems the best so far.

Chris

Yep, it is! But somewhat expensive for a lot of people. But good quality, good (real) extra horsepower and great looks with the carbonfiber shell.

[SaffronC70]

not expensive if you do it right the first time though !

I've wasted alot of money experimenting, but don't regret it - I enjoy doing things and finding out how they perform and then sharing the info whether if it is read or not.

Chris

:)

[BlackBeast]

not expensive if you do it right the first time though !


Ive got one, not fitted yet though like so many of the nice bits ive bought for the car. But i think your comment that i quoted chris is spot on. Do something right the first time and its cheaper in the long run.

[T5SLAVE]

Yo peeps,

The induction set-up I now have fitted in my car seems 2b workin bl**dy well, I'm totally and utterly convinced the car is goin better because of it especially in the mid range and top end...and it sounds luuuush too:anmflower More fiddlin 2 come, and a session on the rollers soon 2 see where the car's at b4 it has any real power modifications...

Just out of interest, did anyone (who's participated on this thread) get their car RR'd b4 n after the induction alterations??? I didn't, n I'm startin 2 think it probably would've been a good idea in light of the way she's performin at the mo:B_steerin :B_steerin :B_steerin

[grumpybob]

Been thinking about this one as well for a while. I had a stainless steel airbox with a Blitz filter on a previous car and it was the best mod I spent money on.

Hopefully the link will work.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/Grumpybob/DSCN0423.jpg

Can't find one of it fitted.:sorry:

But have also been looking at ITG Maxagen filters -

http://www.itgairfilters.com/content2.asp?section=maxogen

Was thinking about trying to move the battery to where the Volvo airbox is at the moment so the filter sits behind the headlight. This would give more room for a big fllter and more direct ducting to the front of the car. It would also have the benefit that is you were going to take the car to the dragstrip then you could remove the headlight for more air feed.

Just thoughts at the moment. Anybody else got any suggestions or ideas.??

Bob

[BlackBeast]

http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com/tech_turnbattery.html

Either do that or put the battery in the boot.

[SaffronC70]

I've got my last Quickshift stainless filter on the shelf outside.

Just if anyone is interested ;)

Chris

[Montana]

Saw this and it looks like the way forwards!!!

http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com/tech_diycai.html

[arbee]

seen that before, it looks v impressive :)

[mazza]

that looks good!!might try that!!only one problem i think,what happens if you drive through a flooded road,intake is so low that it would suck up loads of water!!!!

[petrolhead]

I agree, nice sound....just don't like the warm air....

[volvotuning]

One other thing to consider is that from all the research I've read about, during a hot day the temparature at the road surface is warmer than the temperature say 50 cm higher, so fitting a "cold" air feed at the bottom means you may not actually be sucking in colder air, but instead you're getting the hottest air! Perhaps another reason why most manufacturers put it at the highest point below the bonnet.

Note, this is just from what I've read about. Please don't take this as fact. If anyone has any other scientific input that can shed more light into this, please add it here!

Adam.

[Engineer]

One other thing to consider is that from all the research I've read about, during a hot day the temparature at the road surface is warmer than the temperature say 50 cm higher, so fitting a "cold" air feed at the bottom means you may not actually be sucking in colder air, but instead you're getting the hottest air! Perhaps another reason why most manufacturers put it at the highest point below the bonnet.

Note, this is just from what I've read about. Please don't take this as fact. If anyone has any other scientific input that can shed more light into this, please add it here!

Adam.

Ask Hamish, Adam, track temp always higher than air, so your theory sounds good mate, plus you won't gobble up water when it rains lol..:doh:

[volvotuning]

Ask Hamish, Adam, track temp always higher than air, so your theory sounds good mate, plus you won't gobble up water when it rains lol..:doh:

Would explain why most racing cars like F1 for example have them at the top, ie no water intake and cooler air temps. If the temperature theory is indeed good, watch everybody start moving their front spoiler cold air feeds back up to just under the bonnet, and hey presto we're back to the stock airbox setup! lol :)

Adam.

[BlackBeast]

What about the high pressure theory? I.e locating a point at the front of the car with the highest pressure possible which in turn gets the best ram air effect.

[volvotuning]

The difference in atmosheric pressure at 10 cm and 50 cm is negligable.

Adam.

[volvos60t5]

Since I have to make room for the aquamistkit I was looking for a different Airbox. I notices that the 260 hp S60 T5 and the R have a different airbox than the other T5 models. Not only does the air get in the turbo in a more straight line it also has a bigger intake into the airbox and the restriction in the fresh air inlet pipe to the turbo is removed. See the pics below. Mine will be installed next month:You can see the difference:
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/volvos60t5/Rbox1.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/volvos60t5/Rbox2.jpg

[SaffronC70]

Good work that man !

Chris

[siamblue]

Very nice work, I found when i cut my S70 T5 airbox, by having 2 100mm feeds it worked very well, the temp gauge would sit at 4.30 on the gauge, but my auto i have no room to swing a gnat so have to stick with my standard inlet, the boxes you have look good :)

[volvos60t5]

Good work that man !

Chris

I am really looking forward to installment of the airbox and the aquamist. With this new box I have room for a custom build reservoir for the aquamist of +/- 8 liter. I hope this is enough for a run around the nurburgring. How big is your reservoir?

[volvos60t5]

Very nice work, I found when i cut my S70 T5 airbox, by having 2 100mm feeds it worked very well, the temp gauge would sit at 4.30 on the gauge, but my auto i have no room to swing a gnat so have to stick with my standard inlet, the boxes you have look good :)

Having 2 100 mm feeds is indeed very good and I was planning on doing that as well however there where 2 problems. First of all I wanted to keep the "Sleeper"look and secondly I needed the room for the aquamist reservoir. I am very happy with this airbox. I might not be a cheap option but it is worth the money to me.

[SaffronC70]

I use the Washer Tank for my Aquamist - I tapped off the bottom hose after the washer pump - as I was having loads of air bubble problems.

After taking the feed from the bottom of the tank and relocating the pump to the subframe, I've had no problems.

I also get a light to let me know the water is running low, so it avoids having to bleed the Aquamist or letting it run dry :)

Aquamist doesn't use that much water - what pressure are you going to cut in at ? Mine is 0.5bar so there is no 'feel' to when it cuts in as there was when set to 1 bar.

HTH

Chris

[volvos60t5]

I also get a light to let me know the water is running low, so it avoids having to bleed the Aquamist or letting it run dry :)

Aquamist doesn't use that much water - what pressure are you going to cut in at ? Mine is 0.5bar so there is no 'feel' to when it cuts in as there was when set to 1 bar.



I will install such a light aswell.

I really don't know when. From what I have been reading I think in the reagion of ~0.8 bar or so. Much will depend on Marco of MTE who will update the custom software next time he is in the Netherlands. Unfortunately that will not be till next spring so till that time I will have to run the current software. I hope to get 300 real whp by then.

What kind of mixture are you running on? 50/50 water/methanol?

[SaffronC70]

I'm using blue screen (ethonal) wash and tap water 50/50.

Was going to use something fancy, but for a day-to-day runner, this was easier.

Install it and see how it reacts at different pressure settings - I found 0.5 bar to give the smoothest transition as the ECU has more time to react as the boost increases, afaik.

Chris

[BlackBeast]

the temp gauge would sit at 4.30 on the gauge

What temp gauge was it? If it was the water temp i cant see a different intake setup changing the temp of the water by that much. IMO it was something else affecting it.

[SaffronC70]

What temp gauge was it? If it was the water temp i cant see a different intake setup changing the temp of the water by that much. IMO it was something else affecting it.

yeah, the big feck off hole he made for the feeds !

Chris

[BlackBeast]

yeah, the big feck off hole he made for the feeds !

Chris

:blowingup hence the reason why i said different intake setup

[siamblue]

It was the standard temp gauge, i could sit in traffic and it would sit at just under 3 o'clock then onto a free bit of road and it went 4.30. nothing wrong with her, it worked a treat, ram air effect :hbomb:

[volvotuning]

It was the standard temp gauge, i could sit in traffic and it would sit at just under 3 o'clock then onto a free bit of road and it went 4.30. nothing wrong with her, it worked a treat, ram air effect :hbomb:

A sticky thermostat has exactly the same effect. Could be a coincidence. The air intake should have no bearing at all on the temperature of the engine. The engine cooling system takes care of that.

Adam.

[siamblue]

A sticky thermostat has exactly the same effect. Could be a coincidence. The air intake should have no bearing at all on the temperature of the engine. The engine cooling system takes care of that.

Adam.

i will have to dig iit out and check,