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View Full Version : Fitting an aftermarket ATF cooler to your automatic



Wobbly Dave
Monday 26th June 2006, 22:59
This modification applies to 850, 70 series, using the Aisin-Warner 50-42 LE gearbox. I have no idea if this will work on phase 2 cars - V70 new shape and S60 or any of the 40 series.

I have been asked on many occasions recently to fit the aftermarket solution I developed - shown in this thread....

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/t899-protect-your-automatic-transmission.html

It is not something that I wish to keep going with so I thought it best if I told you all how to do it, where I got the parts from and what's involved.

I now personally believe that with discount available through Marshall's that you'd be better off getting the Volvo OEM additional cooler if you want.

I am not certain that the Volvo one is as high a quality but it is bigger and comes with brackets and pipework and instructions included.

First off you will need the return feed pipe (a spare one is best - contact Salvo) that runs from the stock ATF cooler (lower junction) back to the top of the box....

Wobbly Dave
Monday 26th June 2006, 23:04
I used a 13 row 235mm oil cooler with 1/2 BSP male connectors.

http://www.thinkauto.com/Cooler235_dims.htm

which I bought online from here

http://www.thinkauto.com/index.htm

use the online shop and follow the links...

http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/Price_List_230mm_width_3.html

Wobbly Dave
Monday 26th June 2006, 23:18
The last photo also shows the lines I created. Later developed models used an 1/2 BSP female connector with 90 degree bends instead of the knuckle joints shown (cheaper)
http://www.pirtek.co.uk/sourceandselect/Resources/sourceandselect/Images/fittings/251-fit.gif

If you use the 90 degree bends - please ensure that the correct twist is applied to the line that has the Volvo OEM Cooler end on it. IIRC it was 270 degrees

IIRC looking from the Volvo end of the pipe, with the female 1/2 BSP pointing to 6 o'clock - the Volvo end was at 3 o'clock.


The pipework is supplied by Pirtek (in Digbeth in Birmingham) - but they are a nationnal company - dealing with hydraulic solutions all over the UK.

http://www.pirtek.co.uk

Sadly I have lost the paper with the specification on it. The hose featured is a teflon s/s braided hose. - one which is 900 mm long and the other 700mm long which is sufficient to allow the cooler to be placed midline in the bottom of the front valence as shown here

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/cooler.jpg

To make up the line you need to split the return pipe in 2, cut away the current swaging with a hacksaw (use a vice its easier) so you end up with the Volvo bit that inserts into the existing cooler...

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/new_pipes.jpg

this picture above shows the new pipes after Pirtek re-swaged each of the ends on to the braided lines.
These lines are excellent quality and good for 400 degrees centigrade but they are expensive - over 100 pounds for 1.6 metres, but it is the dogs of hydraulic pipework.
Pirtek actually supplied the bit that connects back onto the box - so it may not be necessary to supply that bit (IIRC it is a 12mm olive??) but take your spare return pipe and check.

The pipe with the 12mm olive on it orientates the same direction as the 1/2 BSP at both ends

Wobbly Dave
Monday 26th June 2006, 23:33
Assuming that all the bits are ready to go onto the car.

Remove the battery and tray (remember your radio code!!)
Remove return ATF pipe - one end is bolted to the top of the box and the other has a metal circlip that holds the end into the cooler

see shot (post fitting)
http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/new_pipes.jpg

gently prise the clip off the cooler end up the pipe - try not to deform it too much, you may need to reshape prior to refit to ensure a good hold (which is why I used cable ties as well)

Catch the ATF spillage.

I pre-assembled the new cooler with the lines already loosely connected onto the 1/2 bsp ends. The 900mm pipe needs to go to the furthest connection (offside end) of the new cooler. I used PTFE plumbing tape to ensure that the bsp ends didnt leak.

The line from the new pipe work will need to be fed into the gap at the near side bottom end of the radiator pack into the space near the gearbox. The pipes were designed to loop around and back on themselves.

Connect as shown in photo.

Secure the cooler as follows.

There are a pair of torx screws at the top of the mouth in the lower valence inlet. Remove these.

On the bottom of the plastic radiotor protector drill the 4 holes that match up with the securing holes on the cooler. Use appropriately sized galvanised bolts/nuts with washers to secure the bottom end of the cooler.
I used plastic cable ties through the holes where the torxs screws were just to additionally support the cooler top edge.

Once everything is reconnected - You'll need to top up the ATF

http://www.bigredvolvos.co.uk/images/finsihed_new_pipes.jpg

I used cable ties to secure the new return feed (leaving the stock cooler).

ATF will now flow out of the bottom of the box through the OEM line into the top of the OEM cooler (part of the rad pack), out of the bottom of the OEM cooler into the MOCAL and back from there into the top of the box.

Make sure you run the system and check for leaks.

I am not responsible for messing up your automatic transmission or liable for any costs should you use this guide to fit the cooler.

If you have any questions/comments please feel free to ask and rate this guide.

I would appreciate if NugentS (Sean) gets chance - he can photograph his install I did some time ago - to assist with the install.

NugentS
Tuesday 27th June 2006, 09:39
Eh what - did someone mention my name - I can try - but getting decent photos will mean dismantling part of the car although I should be able to get some shots of the rad...

Sean

Wobbly Dave
Tuesday 27th June 2006, 09:41
I'd appreciate if you could take a shot through the front of the valence to show the 1/2 bsp ends if poss. Not essential - but the more pics the better. Dont start taking it apart - not that important.

Kingsford G
Friday 11th January 2013, 19:54
Has anyone got pic`s of this aditional cooler installed?

MoleT-5R
Friday 11th January 2013, 20:46
Has anyone got pic`s of this aditional cooler installed?

I'm sure that WD will be along soon with some suitable piccy's, which will interest me as I want to improve my ATF cooling ready for the hope autobox replacement in the near future

Kingsford G
Friday 11th January 2013, 20:48
I'm sure that WD will be along soon with some suitable piccy's, which will interest me as I want to improve my ATF cooling ready for the hope autobox replacement in the near future

This thresd is 6years old I`m sure WD has modified things since.

LiamT4
Friday 11th January 2013, 20:49
Just FYI, the cooler was about 290 from volvo when i was looking.

Kingsford G
Friday 11th January 2013, 20:52
Just FYI, the cooler was about 290 from volvo when i was looking.

I can do a manual convertion a little more.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 11th January 2013, 21:04
Has anyone got pic`s of this aditional cooler installed?

Yes - I think they are still floating around here somewhere.

EDIT - I've looked but cannot find the BRV images - only those on this thread that appear as attachments.

Principle by which these were made & attached still stands - though the Volvo OEM kit is easier to fit (that's if it is still being made).

Kingsford G
Friday 11th January 2013, 21:23
If I remap my car and only give it every now and again do I really need to worry about additional cooler?I won`t be towing at all thats for sure.

LiamT4
Friday 11th January 2013, 21:36
If I remap my car and only give it every now and again do I really need to worry about additional cooler?I won`t be towing at all thats for sure.

If you drive at normal speeds most of the time then i'd say no. My s70r was mapped and the box was just as smooth when i sold the car as when i bought it.
BUT it is something i was going to do if i had of kept it and gone for a bit more power. From what i have read its mainly powerstarting that kills them.

Kingsford G
Friday 11th January 2013, 21:39
If you drive at normal speeds most of the time then i'd say no. My s70r was mapped and the box was just as smooth when i sold the car as when i bought it.
BUT it is something i was going to do if i had of kept it and gone for a bit more power. From what i have read its mainly powerstarting that kills them.

I won`t be doing that stupid thing on mine.I don`t suppose there is a better tranny fluid than the original one is it?

Kingsford G
Friday 11th January 2013, 21:45
I wonder if this is up for the job?http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APS-Automatic-Transmission-Gearbox-Oil-Cooler-10mm-Hose-MG-Audi-Ford-Vauxhall-/370728834679?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5651291677

LiamT4
Friday 11th January 2013, 21:58
I won`t be doing that stupid thing on mine.I don`t suppose there is a better tranny fluid than the original one is it?

Just make sure the fluid has been changed, and then get it changed every 2 years.

Wobbly Dave
Friday 11th January 2013, 22:09
might be. Still get the ends properly swagged on for piece of mind. I used a 13 row mocal, as the quality was well understood. Main issue is getting a spare return pipe with the volvo fitting. Otherwise you will have to use the one you have - so there is no way back. The joiner coming out of the OEM cooler may be available commerically - I assumed at the time it was specific to Volvo. That's why I used Pirtek - and I was confident with the quality of the pipes I was using.

At the end of the day - I only ever did 3 installs of this. Demand was low and the homemade kit expensive. The lines alone cost me over 100 quid.

Kingsford G
Friday 11th January 2013, 22:18
Just make sure the fluid has been changed, and then get it changed every 2 years.
5 years ago it was changed lol

might be. Still get the ends properly swagged on for piece of mind. I used a 13 row mocal, as the quality was well understood. Main issue is getting a spare return pipe with the volvo fitting. Otherwise you will have to use the one you have - so there is no way back. The joiner coming out of the OEM cooler may be available commerically - I assumed at the time it was specific to Volvo. That's why I used Pirtek - and I was confident with the quality of the pipes I was using.

At the end of the day - I only ever did 3 installs of this. Demand was low and the homemade kit expensive. The lines alone cost me over 100 quid.
I have an s70 auto to have the pipe ends off from.Is there much pressure in the pipes then?

Wobbly Dave
Friday 11th January 2013, 22:21
I have no clue - but if Volvo swagged the OEM ends - then I did it to match. Perhaps over-engineered??