PDA

View Full Version : Rear Disc Replacement Worries



Liddo
Thursday 1st June 2006, 11:30
Hello there,

Im hoping to replace my rear discs pretty soon. Are they a pain to replace????
I've done the fronts before, and found them to be a peice of p**s providing I can get the caliper off!
Im sure Ive read somewhere that the rears can be a pain though??
Tried to do a search, but found nothing that really helps.

Cheers

Paul

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 1st June 2006, 12:01
Liddo, fret ye not - It's not too bad. The trickest bit is releasing the daisy wheel adjuster that moves the hand brake shoes into position (and adjusts the handbrake).

Very simply this:

Loosen the wheel bolts. 19mm.
Jack the car safely. Chock the car and/or put it in gear.
Remove wheel bolts and wheel.
You can just remove the rear caliper (assuming the pads are staying as is)
If you are replacing the pads then read this

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1277

When removing the caliper you might need to release the solid brake line from the clip on the trailing arm.
Suspend the caliper on wire or string from the rear spring.

To remove the disk - rotate the disk so the inspection hole is near the 12 O'clock. Use a flatbladed screw driver to engage the daisy wheel adjuster - flick it down to loosen (IIRC). A little torch maybe useful to help find it. This is the trickiest bit but be patient.

Once you have done this a number of times you can remove the retaining bolt (10mm spanner) - tap the disk edge with a hammer and it will come off. If it dont then you havent release the inboard shoes enough. BTW if I have told you to go the wrong way then you'll find that the disk will eventually freeze - just go the other way!

When you are putting the new disks on (ensure that you have thoroughly cleaned them with brake cleaner) line up the inspection hole with the adjuster. Adjust until the disks doesnt move at all and then wind it back just a little so it can.

Retract the caliper piston - refit the caliper and torque up those nuts - reapply loctite thread-lock.
Refit the wheel.


Hope this helps. If you get stuck - call me.

Liddo
Thursday 1st June 2006, 12:29
Cheers Dave, your a star :B_thumb:


Now, wheres my socket set :shifty:

Wobbly Dave
Thursday 1st June 2006, 13:57
Take some photos and we'll promote this thread onto the How 2s

Liddo
Thursday 1st June 2006, 14:25
Take some photos and we'll promote this thread onto the How 2s

Reeto

pikeajm
Thursday 1st June 2006, 20:25
well took mine off the outher week because the linings of the shoes came off discs came off easy so jb welded linings back on reasembled and put handbrake on while jbweld setts valla on working hand brake till i can aford new shoes

Wobbly Dave
Friday 2nd June 2006, 10:20
This is one of the recurring risks when removing the rears - the friction lining on the shoes has a habit of falling orf!

Straker
Friday 2nd June 2006, 12:42
As long as you can get the calipers off. Buy a proper set of barke pipe spanners and soak everying in coke and the thinnest oil you can get. i speak from bitter and knuckle scared experiance :icon_soap

Wobbly Dave
Friday 2nd June 2006, 12:52
But it is not necessary to disconnect the calipers from the brake line - unless your doing them as well??

Straker
Friday 2nd June 2006, 12:54
But it is not necessary to disconnect the calipers from the brake line - unless your doing them as well??

Sorry yes WD is correct just be carefull with the pipes if you are leaving them connected. In fact leave them connected (I refer you to my previous post :icon_soap )

Wobbly Dave
Friday 2nd June 2006, 12:58
That's why I recommend you release the hard pipe from the clip on the trailing arm and use string/wire to suspend the caliper from the suspension spring at a similar height.