Aux Drivebelt

[nikgallagher]

Is the aux drivebelt fairly straightforward to change on a 96 854 T5 CD? Getting a continuous whine from that area, so thought I would change it. Have heard somewhere that the replacement belts are slightly shorter and need to be routed differently - any truth in this? I s'pose it could also be a pulley bearing that has gone. In which case are there any that are prone to going first? More questions available on request...

[nikgallagher]

Has anyone got any new ideas on this?

[glock19]

Haven't tried removal or installing but from friend's input, the serpentine belt should be loosen by releasing the tensioner arm. I think a 3/4" square drive (or a 'dog bone') is needed. The belt should drive the alternator, power steering pump, water pump.

[nikgallagher]

Is the tensioner arm spring loaded? If not, does it have to be re-set to a specific tension (most probably using a Volvo special tool!)?
I imagine access will be the fiddliest part of the job, but just thought if anyone else had done it and had any 'no-go' areas.
Might enquire at the motor factors as to how much a new power steering pump pulley bearing will cost too. Would be worth changing that while I have the belt off, as I think that's what's squeaking.

[glock19]

I don't think you need to remove the whole tensioner. Just bend it till the whole belt is loose enough to be dislodged off the pulleys. If the engine is cold, shouldn't be too difficult.

[sizzlechest]

The aux belt tension is continually maintained by an automatic adjuster and tension assembly. I reckon you're going to have to buy a Haynes Manual if you want to change it.
On the subject of the steering pump, the pulley and the reservoir need special tools to separate. You might be better off just buying the complete unit.
Try this guy:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10432&item=4539105655&rd=1

[nikgallagher]

I'll have a look in the haynes tonight. It's usually full of lies so don't often open it much thesedays. Think I'll change the belt, and if the noise persists, I might consider changing the pump. Just seems a bit excessive for perhaps only a worn bearing.

[andi t5]

if you check the bearing it should have a number on the outer edge get this number and most decent engineering suppliers will source one for you

[glock19]

Why not squeeze some silicon spray into the moving parts one at a time to isolated the noise before dismantling ? The last part should be on the belt itself after wetting the bearings of all the other peripherals.

[bedlam]

The belt is fairly easy to change. Just make a quick sketch of route round the pulleys, before you take it off. "Haynes" explains it ok but poor diagrams. If you take it off one day, then go for bits and put back together a couple of days later, you'll be struggling!
The most likely source of noise would be auto tensioner bearing itself. The next likely would be the drive hub on alternator, if your's is the type with sprag clutch set-up. As this is wearing out, it slips on lifting rpm from idle, causing a noise similar to a slipping belt but more of a groan. (If you know exactly what I mean, you're a good un) As it worsens, the noise stays there for longer. When it's bad enough you'll see it in loss of charge to battery. :)
The easiest way to change alternator drive hub is to take into dealer or lucas or suchlike, as a special tool is required.

[nikgallagher]

Useful stuff. I shall re-post after I've changed the belt to update.